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E46 M3 Rear Wheel Bearing and Hub Service — Using Astro 78825HD Kit

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    E46 M3 Rear Wheel Bearing and Hub Service — Using Astro 78825HD Kit

    I've discovered that the recently released Astro 78825HD kit works perfectly for servicing the E46 M3 rear wheel bearing and hub. For the purposes of this task, it's functionally equivalent to the $500+ CTA 8650 or Sir Tools B90 kits, but at a fraction of the cost.

    Getting the sizing right for the press components is harder than it sounds. The E46 M3 uses a large, double-row rear wheel bearing, and both the inner and outer race dimensions matter when choosing drivers and receiver cups. The outer race measures 85mm OD and 82mm ID, while the inner race measures 61mm OD and 45mm ID. The hub flange is about 100mm OD. Most generic press kits list adapter diameters without clarifying whether they refer to inner or outer dimensions, or which bearing surface they’re meant to contact. Because each step of the job requires the press load to be carried only through one race at a time, even a few millimeters of mismatch can cause point loading or damage. After measuring and testing combinations, I matched the Astro 78825HD pieces that contact only the correct race faces and clear the trailing arm properly.

    1. Bearing Removal

    Use Astro #11 (2.48"/63mm OD) as the pusher (driver) on bearing inner face.

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    Use #15 receiver cup (4.00"/101.6mm OD), supported by the #002 press plate. The #15 receiver cup is the right size to sit on the ~100 mm hub flange and fully support the trailing arm housing without contacting the machined bearing bore.

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    Here is the hub flange with the bearing removed.

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    2. Bearing Installation

    When pressing in the new bearing, use the #02 press plate (3.27"/83mm OD) to apply force to the outer race and the #01 thrust bearing assembly (3.48"/88.3mm) on the nut side of the spindle.

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    The #02 plate is correctly sized—larger than the bearing’s inner bore (82mm) but smaller than its outer race (85mm)—so it contacts the outer race face evenly without binding in the trailing-arm bore.

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    Press slowly until the bearing seats fully against the shoulder inside the trailing arm, then install the snap ring.

    3. Hub Installation

    The hub is pressed inward from the outside of the trailing arm. The spindle passes through from the inner side of the arm and threads into the hub.

    On the inner side of the bearing, place #11 (2.48"/63mm OD) against the inner race. It acts as a support plate, ensuring all press load is transmitted through the inner race only.

    On the outer side, use the #02 thrust bearing assembly (3.48"/88.3mm OD) under the press nut to pull the hub inward through the bearing.

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    #11’s 63mm diameter perfectly matches the 61mm inner race shoulder—large enough for full, even contact, small enough to avoid touching the outer race—preventing point-loading and any brinelling of the races or balls.

    Tighten slowly while ensuring the spindle and hub remain square to the arm. The hub will seat firmly against the inner race.

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    Attached Files

    #2
    Nice writeup.
    BMW / E46M Interior & Trim Restoration.
    https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/c...ch-restoration

    Comment


      #3
      Ordered the tool, Thanks!!! I believe I will have to do this job on my cars soon
      Build Thread:
      https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...-new-pb-at-msr

      Comment


        #4
        That's great but you have the get the hub off first which is why you would use the SIR B90 kit. If you can't get the hub off then you're dead in the water.

        Only if there was a tool to extract an outer race that gets stuck in the bore.
        Last edited by bigjae46; 10-23-2025, 09:41 AM.

        Comment


          #5
          I used a generic axle puller and slide hammer to remove the hub.

          I got a free rental of an EverTough combo from O'Reilly (67030 and 67031), though any suitably sized combo should do the trick.

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            #6
            How do you get the bearing out when the hub is installed ?
            In your pictures you extract the bearing with no hub installed I believe, which is a LOT easier.
            When the hub is in the bearing, the slide hammer is pretty much the only option, isn't it ? And I hate that tool as the goal is to destroy the wheel bearing in order to extract it, and I am sure a lot of other stuff around also get a beatdown, like the balljoints of the upper and lower rear suspension arms.
            2004 E46 M3 • TiAG / LSB nappa

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by martin.oconnor View Post
              I used a generic axle puller and slide hammer to remove the hub.

              I got a free rental of an EverTough combo from O'Reilly (67030 and 67031), though any suitably sized combo should do the trick.

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              In some cases a slide hammer may not cut it and that's where the SIR B90 tool makes sense. You are also increasing your chances of getting the outer race stuck in the trailing arm.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Flow View Post
                How do you get the bearing out when the hub is installed ?
                In your pictures you extract the bearing with no hub installed I believe, which is a LOT easier.
                When the hub is in the bearing, the slide hammer is pretty much the only option, isn't it ? And I hate that tool as the goal is to destroy the wheel bearing in order to extract it, and I am sure a lot of other stuff around also get a beatdown, like the balljoints of the upper and lower rear suspension arms.
                The hub has to be removed first — it’s pressed into the inner races of the bearing, so there’s no way to extract the bearing with the hub still installed.

                The bearing can only be removed destructively, since the outer race sits in a blind bore. The only surface you can press on is the inner race, which transfers force through the balls and cage — destroying it. There’s no non-destructive way to push on the outer race in the E46 M3 trailing arm that I am aware of. ​

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

                  In some cases a slide hammer may not cut it and that's where the SIR B90 tool makes sense. You are also increasing your chances of getting the outer race stuck in the trailing arm.
                  Can you explain.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    This excellent video gives a very good overview of the process:

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by martin.oconnor View Post

                      Can you explain.
                      Sometimes the hub will be seized into the bearing inner race. So you can use a slide hammer to get hub out and the inner race will be stuck to it. If the inner race comes off then there is a chance that the outer race will be stuck in the trailing arm and then you have even more dremeling to do.

                      An SIR B90 tool reduces the chances of that happening.

                      Hopefully, someone will have done the wheel bearings once or twice already on these cars. If not then the job is going to be a mutha f$@?er.

                      I'm not saying the tool you recommended isn't valid...it won't be the best answer for every one of these jobs.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        OK that makes more sense then.
                        You first need to hammer the hub out and destroy the bearing in the process, and then your tool comes into play to extract the rest of the bearing + install the new one.
                        I personally just used a standard extractor set, nothing specific / fancy, but I did it with the trailing arm out of the car, so that might play a major role haha.

                        But god I hate that slide hammer, what an unsophisticated tool haha
                        2004 E46 M3 • TiAG / LSB nappa

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