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    Intake Valve Leak

    I’m working on bringing a car that hasn’t run in 10 years back to life. I recently posted about finding rust and corrosion in the cooling system which initially led me to thinking there may be an issue with the head gasket. Some input from members helped me realize the buildup was likely caused by tap water sediments.

    Regardless, I decided to run a leak down test to ensure there weren’t any compression leaks. The engine doesn’t run, so the leak down was done on a cold engine. I pumped 100 psi into each cylinder, cylinders 1-5 lost less than 10% compression. Cylinder 6 could only build up to about 40 psi and only held 15-20 psi. I used a rubber glove over the throttle body and determined the leak was coming from the intake valves.

    I pulled the throttle bodies to inspect the intake valves; all the intake valves were cleaner than I expected and had similar levels of buildup. When rotating the crank, all the valves seem to be moving smoothly and closing without any obvious gaps. The valve clearances have been adjusted and are within spec. With the cylinder losing 50% compression instead of 100%, I hoped the cause was just a dirty valve, carbon deposits or something like that, but that doesn’t seem to be the case. I cleaned up the valves and retested, the figures improved slightly. Compression built up to about 50 psi and held around 30 psi. I checked the intake port and couldn’t detect air escaping… that’s odd.

    Next, I checked the exhaust side, no air leak there. The cooling system is still disassembled, but I did my best to check the water pump location and coolant pipes for leaks, couldn’t find any. So, I pulled the dipstick, put my ear to the tube and heard a faint whistle… damn.

    Edit: I thought there could be a stuck piston ring, but I ran the leak down again on cylinders 1-5, they held compression and also had air escaping from the dipstick tube. This makes sense, especially on a cold engine. So, I checked cylinder 6 again, the intake valve leak reduced after the valves were cleaned, but not entirely. So, I'm back to thinking the valve, valve seal, or valve seat is failing.



    Edit: Cylinder 6 Endoscope photos added.


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    Last edited by ///M3RIC; 11-19-2025, 02:04 PM.

    #2
    If you have an endoscope, put it down cylinder 6 and post a picture.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Slideways View Post
      If you have an endoscope, put it down cylinder 6 and post a picture.
      Second this
      ‘02 TiAg/Impulse Slicktop

      Comment


        #4
        ....if somebody rebuild the engine he probably didnt time the engine to the cams properly and bent the valves on cyl 6

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          #5
          Originally posted by Slideways View Post
          If you have an endoscope, put it down cylinder 6 and post a picture.
          My endoscope isn't great, but here's what I was able to get:

          Click image for larger version

Name:	Cylinder 6.jpg
Views:	135
Size:	113.0 KB
ID:	325891

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by ///M3RIC View Post

            My endoscope isn't great, but here's what I was able to get:

            Click image for larger version

Name:	Cylinder 6.jpg
Views:	135
Size:	113.0 KB
ID:	325891
            I honestly can't tell if those are carbon deposits on the top of the pistons, moisture, or small nicks from pre-ign, det or something bouncing around in there.

            You might need a higher res endoscope to give you an idea of what the cylinder wall looks like. Those cheap WIFI endoscopes can do 1080p.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Slideways View Post

              I honestly can't tell if those are carbon deposits on the top of the pistons, moisture, or small nicks from pre-ign, det or something bouncing around in there.

              You might need a higher res endoscope to give you an idea of what the cylinder wall looks like. Those cheap WIFI endoscopes can do 1080p.
              I borrowed a better scope and added some pics to the main post, ignore the image dates. There might be some remaining moisture from when I tried using a solvent to loosen up the carbon.

              Comment


                #8
                I edited the original post with an update. I'm back to thinking there is just a valve issue. Currently considering pulling the head and sending it out for a rebuild. Then replace the head gasket and maybe clean the carbon buildup off the pistons.

                Any recommendations on where to have the head serviced?

                Also, any methods to ensuring the leak is only coming from the valves? It would be unfortunate to have the head done and the leak remains because there was something else failing. If I could seal off the intake / exhaust ports then test compression that would be ideal, not sure if that's possible though.

                Comment


                  #9
                  With the head out:

                  When I bought the used head on ebay for my 2000 323iT (E46 wagon), I checked the valves leakage (filled the chamber with gasoline) before installing, found a few leaking from debris collected on the valve seats while on the shelf at the seller. I turned the cam just enough to crack open the valve and using my thumbs on the valve head to turn it around for lapping against the seat, then cleaned with gasoline. Repeated this process and fixed the leaking valve within 10 minutes per each valve. If yours is not burned or chipped then this is a good way to clean the mating surface.
                  With a Crescent wrench on the cam you can control the amount of friction between valve and seat to lap it.

                  I did not use any lapping compound for this!!!


                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by ///M3RIC View Post
                    I edited the original post with an update. I'm back to thinking there is just a valve issue. Currently considering pulling the head and sending it out for a rebuild. Then replace the head gasket and maybe clean the carbon buildup off the pistons.

                    Any recommendations on where to have the head serviced?

                    Also, any methods to ensuring the leak is only coming from the valves? It would be unfortunate to have the head done and the leak remains because there was something else failing. If I could seal off the intake / exhaust ports then test compression that would be ideal, not sure if that's possible though.
                    With the airbox removed and the throttle bodies wedged open, do another leakdown test on cylinder 6. If you have a leaking intake valve, you will hear air rushing out of throttle body #6. You could do the same on the exhaust side by removing the exhaust manifolds. Even with the intake and exhaust installed, you should be able to hear air coming out of the end of the intake or exhaust.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by sapote View Post
                      With the head out:

                      When I bought the used head on ebay for my 2000 323iT (E46 wagon), I checked the valves leakage (filled the chamber with gasoline) before installing, found a few leaking from debris collected on the valve seats while on the shelf at the seller. I turned the cam just enough to crack open the valve and using my thumbs on the valve head to turn it around for lapping against the seat, then cleaned with gasoline. Repeated this process and fixed the leaking valve within 10 minutes per each valve. If yours is not burned or chipped then this is a good way to clean the mating surface.
                      With a Crescent wrench on the cam you can control the amount of friction between valve and seat to lap it.

                      I did not use any lapping compound for this!!!


                      When I pull the head, if nothing is damaged, I'll try something like this before I commit to getting the head serviced.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                        With the airbox removed and the throttle bodies wedged open, do another leakdown test on cylinder 6. If you have a leaking intake valve, you will hear air rushing out of throttle body #6. You could do the same on the exhaust side by removing the exhaust manifolds. Even with the intake and exhaust installed, you should be able to hear air coming out of the end of the intake or exhaust.
                        The air is definitely escaping from the intake port, that's not what I'm questioning. I'm just hoping that is the only issue because it would be a bummer if I pull the head, fix the valve leak, reinstall, and it turns out there was an issue with the piston ring or something like that. So I was wondering if it is possible to isolate the issue completely because if I could seal the intake port then do a leak down I would verify there are no other points of failure. I'm probably just overthinking it though.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by ///M3RIC View Post

                          The air is definitely escaping from the intake port, that's not what I'm questioning. I'm just hoping that is the only issue because it would be a bummer if I pull the head, fix the valve leak, reinstall, and it turns out there was an issue with the piston ring or something like that. So I was wondering if it is possible to isolate the issue completely because if I could seal the intake port then do a leak down I would verify there are no other points of failure. I'm probably just overthinking it though.
                          If you have a leak there, then that is most likely the issue. The piston looks fine. You'll see more with the head off. If the cylinder does not have any scoring marks, should be good to go.

                          Take the head to a machine shop - hot tank, minimal skim head surface for new head gasket, valve job - and plop the head back on with a new Elring head gasket and BMW head bolts. Local machine shop charged about 200 without the valve job. With valve job, probably 4-500. Also take the valve cover to get washed as well.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            “So I was wondering if it is possible to isolate the issue completely”

                            Add a table spoon of engine oil to seal the rings better, then crank it couple turns by starter. Do the leak test again.

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