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Window Regulators - OEM vs URO

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    Window Regulators - OEM vs URO

    Hello group — I’m looking at part 51338229106 on FCP Euro and I’m tempted by the ~$430 savings going with the Uro regulator instead of OEM. I only see two reviews on FCP and both are positive, but that’s not much to go on.

    Has anyone here actually run the Uro regulators? Any real-world success (or headaches) to share? I know OEM is usually the safer bet for window regulators, but at a quarter of the price I’m considering giving Uro a shot. Curious what the collective experience is.​

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    #2
    For any job you do not want to do twice or for a part that is hard to access, stick with the OE BMW or OEM part.

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      #3
      Originally posted by Slideways View Post
      For any job you do not want to do twice or for a part that is hard to access, stick with the OE BMW or OEM part.
      my local Indy mechanic said the same thing, I planned to stick with with OEM. But when they pulled the door card, they found all it was was a loosing mounting bolt. A squirt of Loctite and I was on my way. Nice to be lucky every once in a while…

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        #4
        glad to hear it was a simple fix for your issue.

        as a data point, I ordered an Uro window regulator for my passenger side made clicking noises and the glass got stuck (cable was all tangled up in the gear section). It's been about 6 years and so far so good. I probably didn't adjust it properly so the glass doesn't always drop far enough when I open the door but it's been reliably going up and down.
        "your BMW has how many miles!?"

        2003 M3 coupe - Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ - Ground Control - Volk Racing - Karbonius - SuperSprint - Recaro - Schroth
        1989 325i sedan - track project coming soon!
        2007 GX470

        build/journal
        ig: @zzyzx85

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          #5
          username doesn't check out
          DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
          /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
          More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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            #6
            That's crazy. I just bought an OEM regulator for the e83 and it was $102. This is just price gouging.

            Anyway, I've only had one experience ever with URO and it was complete junk. Stick with OEM.

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              #7
              I vote for URO, the PTSD from this experience will be generational lol.
              2006 Silber Grau Metalizat ZCP 6 MT
              M-texture (F2AT) - Turner CSL V2/CatCams 280 272/SSv1/SS Sec1/Sec2 dual res/SS Race 63.5mm - FatCat stage 3 ult 400f/784r - Vorshlag - EC7r 18x9.5 ET35/CRS 275/35/18 - PFC ZR45/31 BBK/MileEnd CSL bumper/Vorsteiner Trunk/Cobra Nogaro Circuit Mtexture/GC RCA/YURKan Cages/Hotchkiss/BW/MRT full rear eccentric bushing set

              IG: https://www.instagram.com/htrlo/

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                #8
                The OEM ones are so well made that they break on every E46.

                I put cheapo eBay specials on my old sedan and they still worked 6 years later when I sold the car. YMMV.

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                  #9
                  Rockauto has VDO branded regulators for $72. I would gamble on those before anything from Uro-trashgirl.

                  (For all I know they might come from the same factory)

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by OEMPLUS View Post
                    Hello group — I’m looking at part 51338229106 on FCP Euro and I’m tempted by the ~$430 savings going with the Uro regulator instead of OEM.
                    The regulator is a simple mechanical part, so I would consider an aftermarket part if it's well made. The weakest link of these parts is the steel bead B cut through the plastic window lifter L in pic below. I improved it by drilling couple small holes on both side of the cable near the bead and will small steel wire to tie the bead down tight to the lifter to avoid the bead cut through. Once it cut through hell broke loose.

                    Good engineering should have made the bead interfaced directly to metal part, not plastic, and have the plastic inserts to ride on the regulator vertical metal rail for low noise and friction.

                    Pic is from ebay seller for the repair kit $9. I would buy the kid to repair the broken stock regulator.
                    https://www.ebay.com/itm/162793108629?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc% 3A1Sye5qn-gTsuBVYlpYDt9hg4&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=162793108629&targeti d= 2320274088935&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=903117 6&poi=&campaignid=21394316292&mkgroupid=17302950 67 08&rlsatarget=aud-1412318123216la-2320274088935&abcId=9448481&merchantid=113608896&g ad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21394316292&gbraid=0AAA AAD_QDh_umn3gmB07EG_cdDvUsLMyF&gclid=Cj0KCQiAxJXJB hD_ARIsAH_JGjiC1MhNHFzzvfPsRhWGKkMdHPN0KRXtvCfqSKe 7fYmMMEPUhZvqISIaAj9NEALw_wcB

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                    Last edited by sapote; 11-25-2025, 02:08 PM.

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                      #11
                      As someone that has considered going this route, I appreciate the topic. I would have never learned about Sapote's $9 rebuild option, so great conversation topic. The markup on these wear-and-tear parts is insane, yet OEM seems to be the obvious choice 9 out of 10 times.

                      Sorry for the slight derail, OP - is it worth it to replace the window motor along with the regulator as a preventative step? The plastic gearing in the motor seems like it would wear over time, but I’m not sure if that's necessary as most topics along this line only discuss swapping the regulator and nothing about the motor itself (unless it has burned out and is not responding).
                      '02 ///M3 Alpine White / Cinnamon 6MT

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                        #12
                        [QUOTE=AWE46M3;n328226] is it worth it to replace the window motor along with the regulator as a preventative step? The plastic gearing in the motor seems like it would wear over time, but I’m not sure if that's necessary as most topics along this line only discuss swapping the regulator and nothing about the motor itself (unless it has burned out and is not responding).​/QUOTE]

                        I haven't seen a case with a bad motor gear or motor itself. I don't know the internal gearing material, but the external plastic splines doesn't wear.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by sapote View Post

                          I haven't seen a case with a bad motor gear or motor itself. I don't know the internal gearing material, but the external plastic splines doesn't wear.
                          Thank you for the confirmation!
                          '02 ///M3 Alpine White / Cinnamon 6MT

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                            #14
                            Neato, about the repair kits. Need to get one, since my car sits outside and that could get me out of a bind. I believe example kit is for a sedan? That is crazy for the price of an OE regulator. Good Lord. It isn't a mission critical part that will leave you stranded, but considering the use it gets (operates every time you open the door) and if you are using the car everyday that would suck with an aftermarket one giving you grief.
                            Last edited by samthejam; 11-25-2025, 06:42 PM.
                            Build Thread:
                            https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...-new-pb-at-msr

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                              #15
                              Does anyone know what part of the regulator causes that single "ting" sound partway through rolling down the windows?

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