Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Whiteline FCABs, is this right?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Yup, I probably could have got by with stopping at 30 ft lbs with the other one torqued properly, but I want it right. The threads felt good but loose after chasing them with the tap, a longer bolt may have been ok. Gonna see if I can pick up a helicoil kit tomorrow locally.

    Those billet Millway FCABs look awesome, I like how they have the grease fittings. I figure they're a bit out of my price range, the Whitelines were only $100 so not much lost if they end up being problematic for some reason.

    Comment


      #17
      I feel the pain, I have to time sert at least 1 hole but only after getting my strut tower cracks welded, just hope the paint match works out, oh well, its just a car.
      2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
      Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
      Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

      OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/TCK Vorshlag/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
      RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

      2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
      Instagram

      Comment


        #18
        I'm curious of the function of the bracket B: why do they need it? To serve as a hole and using a metal rod in the hole to level the mounting holes A to the frame holes for mounting the bolts?

        Click image for larger version

Name:	image.png
Views:	20
Size:	850.9 KB
ID:	330969

        Comment


          #19
          I'm probably telling you something you already know, but the B hole is used to bolt the bracket to the subframe reinforcement plate. I assume it's to tie everything together and stiffen the chassis a bit. I suppose it could be used to help installation, but I didn't have much trouble getting the brackets in place once the bushing was pressed on to the right depth.

          I did get both of mine installed today. I ended up chasing the threads again, then got a 50mm length flanged bolt to install it. That's 15mm longer than stock, and there is plenty of extra threads up there to catch. You lose at least 20mm of thread between the bracket thickness and those locating pins. It felt pretty solid, I stopped at 36 ft lbs and torqued the other to the 44 lb spec. The other side went on without any drama.

          I installed new engine mounts today as well, old ones were at least 15 years old with unknown mileage. I also have a Fullers steering shaft to install that does away with the guibo. I hate to change too much stuff at once, but I also don't want to deal with raising the car again and tearing into things.

          Comment


            #20
            Thanks. I forgot the M3 lollipops are much different than non-M parts.

            Comment

            Working...
            X