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    ECS camber arm help

    Are there any tricks to getting the arms on the lower bushing? The fitment is crazy tight and it's a monoball bushing that wants to roll out of the way. The only other way I can think of is to heat the arm with a propane torch or grind some material off.

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    IG: https://www.instagram.com/mspir3d/

    #2
    I just installed a set of these 6mo ago, don't recall an issue at all. Did you replace the monoballs?


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      #3
      Interesting, my vehicle came with these installed, I have had them on/off multiple times, I do remember it was a tight fit but nothing too crazy. The last time was to install new bushings in the spindle.

      I wonder if maybe the powder coating has worn off a bit on mine, if yours are brand new and there is interference you *may* need to remove material as you suggested, sounds like an ECS QC thing.
      2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
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        #4
        They’re new, I had to destroy the old ones to get the bolts out. The passenger side arm required a mallet to get it seated in the subframe. I think this has quickly become my least favorite job on the car.
        IG: https://www.instagram.com/mspir3d/

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          #5
          I installed a set a couple of years ago and they went right on but i changed to new OE bushings, not monoball, so it might be the monoball has a slightly longer shaft. You’ll have to either sand a few thou off the bushing or heat the arm to see if you can slide it on.

          The camber arms are really nicely made, the alignment shop i go to loved them!

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            #6
            ECS employee here. These are designed to be a very tight fit.

            I measured a set of our adjustable lower control arms (002608ECS01) and a Lemforder ball joint (33326775551). See measurements below - let me know how yours compare. My "flanged end" measurement matches our print and shouldn't present any issues with installation.
            Attached Files

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              #7
              Take the edge to a belt sander real quick and bevel it.

              If still tight, use a dead blow or rubber mallet to whack it all the way in. Then you can use an end wrench or a screwdriver and leverage the end into place so that the holes line up.
              DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
              /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
              More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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                #8
                Prybar bro...like a man. Put yo' back into it!

                This job is the biggest tease. What are they talking about? I don't need to unbolt the diff...I can sneak this bolt out. I think the bolt would come out without dropping the diff if it were about 2mm shorter

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
                  Prybar bro...like a man. Put yo' back into it!

                  This job is the biggest tease. What are they talking about? I don't need to unbolt the diff...I can sneak this bolt out. I think the bolt would come out without dropping the diff if it were about 2mm shorter
                  I was able to just move the diff (bolts removed though yes) and it came out (driver side). Did not want to drop it a 3rd time :P
                  DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                  /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                  More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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                    #10
                    I took a dremel and removed a very small part of the edge where the bearing needed to slide then used a mallet to tap them on. They are a very tight fit but look great. Can’t wait to see how it performs this year with new alignment and the wavetrac.
                    IG: https://www.instagram.com/mspir3d/

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