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    Subframe time

    Been a long time since I have been active on here.. Actually did most of my posting and had all my car mods saved ect on the old forum.

    Anyways I did a bunch of work when i got the car (manual conversion, vanos, front suspension, cooling system). I did all those very thoroughly, replaced every single wear part I could find while digging into those pieces. And i think I just got busy with life and wasnt using the car much, maybe got a little bored with it for a minute you know how that goes, and never did the subframe. The front bushing has got so bad on my rear diff though, and i actually have time again in my life so I am going to do the subframe..

    The question is what else....? I want to replace everything just like I did with everything else. Trying to order parts ahead of time if I can. I was thinking about doing the revshift kit from ECS, but kind of unsure on the poly bushings for the subframe. I did already order the red ECS poly diff bushings. I dont track the car, its on bbs rs2's with pilot sports, dont daily the car, sort of just a weekend toy.. Back when I was on the old forum I remember a lot of the guys being OEM or die.. I personally think I would like the ass end of the car tightened up a bit more. It wont really slide well at all on these wheels and tires and thats kind of annoying, I mean I know pilot sports are meant to be sticky but I can tell thats not the issue, I feel like its a sloppy rear end. Granted its all stock (to my knowledge) with 165k but anyways...

    Was also thinking maybe the turner monoball RTAB? Or is that really not worth the money, and just do stock with limiters?

    Anything else I should cover while I am in here? I already did the axle and input seals on the diff.. Ive got stainless brake lines from when I did the 996 brembo swap.. I am trying to remember what else is in there but it has been a minute since I have wrenched on it. I know I will be dropping the fuel tank- should I preemptively just do the fuel pump too? If so, what would yall suggest for a replacement? Should I do dumb stuff like the filler tube, or any other rubber that could deteriorate over time?

    Thanks in advance, this place was unbelievable helpful the first time I redid this car..

    #2
    1. Disconnect parking brake (inside car)
    2. Remove rear wheels
    3. Remove rear shocks
    4. Remove v-brace
    5. Remove section 2 support brackets
    6. Remove section 2
    7. Remove driveshaft (diff, csb, and at guibo)
    8. Pull parking brake cables out from underneath car.
    9. Disconnect ABS and wear sensors (passenger side) on calipers
    10. Remove calipers (retainer clip, 7mm bolts).
    11. Disconnect lower control arm via eccentric bolt at wheel
    12. Feed caliper between control arm and trailer arm and support with something (this is to avoid disconnecting brake lines)
    13. Disconnect trailer arm from frame (RTAB housing)
    14. Remove charcoal filter plastic cover.
    15. Disconnect rear light leveling sensor that is connected to upper control arm on passenger side
    16. Remove subframe cross member bolts
    17. Remove subframe bushing bolts
    18. Drop rear end.​

    I would say a large percentage are on monoball rtabs.
    3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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      #3
      Thanks.. Yeah i watched a couple youtube clips last night to refresh my memory. Forgot how simple it is..

      Monoball it is, thank you again.

      How about adjustable rear control arms? Had those come across my suggested parts as well on ECS.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by HDdave View Post
        Thanks.. Yeah i watched a couple youtube clips last night to refresh my memory. Forgot how simple it is..

        Monoball it is, thank you again.

        How about adjustable rear control arms? Had those come across my suggested parts as well on ECS.
        I would, can't hurt. I went Ground Control, but others seem to like SPC, SPL, etc.
        3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

        Comment


          #5
          I did RCAs about two months after I had the subframe dropped and was hating myself for it. So do that. I have SPCs and they're fine. Otherwise I was content with the condition of my car to just do the usual bushings. You could do guibo & CSB since you'll be dropping the driveshaft, but that's also easy enough to do whenever.

          Comment


            #6
            If I had it all to do over again I'd probably go full Fall-Line on the car instead of mixing and matching. Unfortunately they don't make a monoball FCAB.


            MADE IN THE USA. Fall Line’s mono ball spherical bearing conversion kit transforms the rear suspension feel of the E46 and E36 M3. The factory rubber bushing is very large, and is prone to substantial deflection under load, as the M3 is put through its paces. Deflection of the bushing can create unwanted geometry chang


            A byproduct of multi-link suspension arrangements is a dynamic change in the car’s alignment settings after changing even one variable, like height. Indeed, adjustability is the name of the game when it comes to tuning any suspension—the camber arm kit by Fall-Line Motorsports is designed to help fine tune your setting


            MADE IN THE USA Lowering your car is often the first step in suspension tuning, but occasionally, this process can adversely affect other associated components. Unwanted sway bar pre-load may be one of these consequential effects, adding asymmetrical spring rate bias to one side of the car versus the other. This imbala


            Lowering your car is often the first step in suspension tuning, but occasionally, this process can adversely affect other associated components. Unwanted sway bar pre-load may be one of these consequential effects, adding asymmetrical spring rate bias to one side of the car versus the other. This imbalance may affect y
            2004 Dinan S3-R M3
            2023 X3M Competition

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