Subframe time

[HDdave]

Nice!

I personally wouldn't run Turner/ECS parts on my car, but if it works for you then by all means.

As for the rod bearings, I went with the WPC treated OEM set.

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/E...aring-Set.html

I mean I have never had an issue with their stuff for hard parts.. And again its not like I a preserving some low mileage car, but you do raise a very solid point there with the bearings.. OEM coated does sound like a safer bet.

[old///MFanatic]

Was also thinking maybe the turner monoball RTAB? Or is that really not worth the money, and just do stock with limiters?

Anything else I should cover while I am in here? I know I will be dropping the fuel tank- should I preemptively just do the fuel pump too?

Yes would recommend monoball RTAB’s if you want a nice performace upgrade. And it is an upgrade over poly/limiters. Also all monoball RTABs are not created equal. I would suggest Syncro Design Works (SDW) monoball rtabs. They use a better OEM bearing and not a spacer.
As for fuel pump. You can do it while tank is dropped but really not much a time saver compared to when in the car. But if you’re for sure already planning to do it, now would be fine. But if your pump has been replaced before with Genuine BMW and not giving issues maybe don’t mess with it. FP is more a “run hours” thing, and if you have poor gasoline in your region that might compromise it. If the fuel filter has never been done I would do that.

[Cronenberged]

I wouldn’t run polyurethane on a street car or my track car, but to each their own. Stick with OEM rubber where it really matters. Rubber does a better job of absorbing and countering G-forces compared to poly or solid mounts. While poly and solid mounts increase NVH, softer poly can reduce it somewhat — but OEM rubber still offers the best balance for a street-driven car.

I’m planning to redo my rear end at some point, and here’s the setup I’m considering:

• Diff Carrier – CMP Solid Mounts
• RTAB – CMP OEM-style sealed articulating RTAB
• LCA – BW adjustable with OEM sealed articulating bushing
• Diff Bushings – OEM rubber
• FCAB – OEM rubber (sealed/greasable articulating versions also work well)
• Engine Mounts – Rubber mounts from 034 Motorsport (OEM-style, slightly stiffer)
• Transmission Mounts – OEM rubber

Just something to consider — if you’re going with spherical bearings, make sure they’re sealed, repairable and/or greasable.

[old///MFanatic]

If I had it all to do over again I'd probably go full Fall-Line on the car instead of mixing and matching.

https://ind-distribution.com/products/fall-line-motorsports-e46-e36-m3-trailing-mono-ball-conversion-kit?variant=19001074843717

I did post that all monoball RTAB are not created equal but $406 for these from IND seems like a huge money grab! I would like to know what about these makes them over $175 more than SDW, Condor Speed Shop (SDW makes it for them) monoball rtab’s. SDW uses OE Germany made sealed bearing that are machined so no spacers needed like some other brands. Also comes with Lifetime Warranty. Made and assembled in USA.

[Cronenberged]

I did post that all monoball RTAB are not created equal but $406 for these from IND seems like a huge money grab! I would like to know what about these makes them over $175 more than SDW, Condor Speed Shop (SDW makes it for them) monoball rtab’s. SDW uses OE Germany made sealed bearing that are machined so no spacers needed like some other brands. Also comes with Lifetime Warranty. Made and assembled in USA.

Fall Line tax

[enjoy_m3]

I just did an extensive rear end reinforcement/restoration on my touring. Vincebar on the trunkside/Reddish V3 plates on the underside. I went as far as coating the inner cavities of the RACP with antirust coating after welding the plates (if I had to do it again, the vincebar full epoxy kit would be better) for less risk of corrosion in the long term. I used fusor 2098 on my vincebar on top. You'll notice a big difference in how much better the rear end response and rides when Replacing the ball joints with new ones and using a monoball RTABs. I Used a meyle sealed ball joint RTAB from a latvian company, Rev-A. The car compliance is much better. I've also driven an m3 using the camry moog ball joints and it was compliant, no noise. Good alternative for the budget but does require minor modification. It's a lot of work, I'm sure Kevin (kaiv) can attest. Might as well replace the wheel bearings while it's out. It's a bit of a pain to replace without the right tools.I'd also advise against the ecs bushings. I've seen them back out after some time. I've gone with e36 m3 diff bushing pressed-in and have not had any issues on 4 cars. I've used revshift bushings and found them to be good quality for the price. AKG is also very good in terms of fitment. Good Luck!