Things to do before an alignment?

[Cubieman]

I just did a full front end refresh, TCK coilvers, ZHP rack/tie rods, control arms/FCAB's.

Initially I just installed the coilvers and test drove the car and all seemed well, the car drove nicely on the new coils, handling was fine.

I then installed the new rack/control arms/fcabs and the car tramlines like crazy, its almost unsafe to be honest. The front end is incredibly twitchy and unstable.

I used calipers to measure exposed threads to try to match the old steering rack tie rods to the new stuff, also I used an app on my phone for ~-1.5° of camber.

Again, I know I need an alignment.


I did have one specific question, must the FCAB bolts be torqued while the vehicle is loaded?

I read that but don't see how that would make much of a difference either way.

Thanks for any help, I just want to check for anything potentially important before shelling out on the alignment.

[TexaZ3]

New suspension needs time to settle. if you are getting it aligned right after, then expect it needing another alignment in a couple of weeks.

[moproblems]

This is where toe plates are useful. Is it as precise as a rack? No... But it'll keep it safe when you do jobs like this to get it to an alignment shop.

And to answer your question, from my understanding fcabs can be torqued at droop.

[adr_M3]

New suspension needs time to settle. if you are getting it aligned right after, then expect it needing another alignment in a couple of weeks.

I also had a suspension refresh done (Bilstein B6, Eibach springs, ZHP rack swap, new tie rods and control arms) and wondering how many miles I should cover before taking it in for an alignment; my initial plan was to go straight from my mechanic to the alignment shop (roughly 10 miles).

[bigjae46]

Just a thought...

An Introduction to String Alignments

An alternative to consider if you have flat ground. Took a long session of frustration the first time but now I have it down to 5-10 min to get setup. I am more inclined to alignments often which means only small adjustments if any.

The rear axle is easy, especially if you have a decent adjustable lower control arm.

The front is the PIA. Camber is a pain even with a laser alignment rack. You'll need to lift the front end either way. The tie rods can be a tough to get to with the car on the ground. I pre-loosen the jam nuts, roll the car, make the adjustments, snug the jam nut and then lift it and tighten the jam nut.

I use a metric ruler with MM gradients. You can get down to .5mm which is about the thickness of the string.

I wish I had 18" high wheel cribs that allowed the car to roll

Then some way to easily center the string top to bottom on each wheel...like a plug that goes into the wheel bore with a probe that sticks out that can be leveled. This is what affects the quality of the alignment.

But every string alignment that I've done has been spot on. Can't say the same for the couple of Hunter alignment racks I've used - never get repeatable results.

[TexaZ3]

I also had a suspension refresh done (Bilstein B6, Eibach springs, ZHP rack swap, new tie rods and control arms) and wondering how many miles I should cover before taking it in for an alignment; my initial plan was to go straight from my mechanic to the alignment shop (roughly 10 miles).

It might be enough, but I would drive a few miles, let it sit for a few hours, then drive a bit more - the thing is - shocks and springs settle over time, not just miles. it things like springs pads, shock mounts, internal bump stops....it is not much, but it will throw sensitive things like alignment off.

[Slideways]

Just a thought...

An Introduction to String Alignments

An alternative to consider if you have flat ground. Took a long session of frustration the first time but now I have it down to 5-10 min to get setup. I am more inclined to alignments often which means only small adjustments if any.

The rear axle is easy, especially if you have a decent adjustable lower control arm.

The front is the PIA. Camber is a pain even with a laser alignment rack. You'll need to lift the front end either way. The tie rods can be a tough to get to with the car on the ground. I pre-loosen the jam nuts, roll the car, make the adjustments, snug the jam nut and then lift it and tighten the jam nut.

I use a metric ruler with MM gradients. You can get down to .5mm which is about the thickness of the string.

I wish I had 18" high wheel cribs that allowed the car to roll

Then some way to easily center the string top to bottom on each wheel...like a plug that goes into the wheel bore with a probe that sticks out that can be leveled. This is what affects the quality of the alignment.

But every string alignment that I've done has been spot on. Can't say the same for the couple of Hunter alignment racks I've used - never get repeatable results.

^ This. FCP has a good video showing a string alignment:

Probably $50 in materials. Substitute angle finder with phone app if you don't have an angle finder.

[bigjae46]

^ This. FCP has a good video showing a string alignment:

Probably $50 in materials. Substitute angle finder with phone app if you don't have an angle finder.

That works but BG string kit is much faster especially if you have to roll the car...assuming you don't have toe plates.

[adr_M3]

It might be enough, but I would drive a few miles, let it sit for a few hours, then drive a bit more - the thing is - shocks and springs settle over time, not just miles. it things like springs pads, shock mounts, internal bump stops....it is not much, but it will throw sensitive things like alignment off.

Thanks. I just spoke with the shop and they confirmed they drove it around after they completed the work over the weekend. I am picking it up later this week so it seems I'm good to go.

[Cubieman]

Bought all the stuff for in the FCP video I didn't have, hopefully I can make something good happen.

[Slideways]

That works but BG string kit is much faster especially if you have to roll the car...assuming you don't have toe plates.

Yeah, having hub stands and an alignment kit that sits on the chassis would make the process go much faster.

[Cubieman]

Yeah, having hub stands and an alignment kit that sits on the chassis would make the process go much faster.

I understand that, I just figured in the end a "real" alignment must be done and maybe I can do something on the cheap as those kits are somewhat expensive.

I should have just accepted I need an alignment and get it done from the jump.

[Slideways]

I understand that, I just figured in the end a "real" alignment must be done and maybe I can do something on the cheap as those kits are somewhat expensive.

I should have just accepted I need an alignment and get it done from the jump.

I was just agreeing with Jae. Knowing how good my string alignment was the last time I took it to a shop, I will probably just DIY the alignment. Between the front wheels, I was only off by 0.03° which is 0.5mm.

My DIY corner balance on a not perfectly flat surface was 3lbs difference on the front axle and 12lbs on the rear. The owner of the scales was pretty surprised it was that close.

[Cubieman]

I was just agreeing with Jae. Knowing how good my string alignment was the last time I took it to a shop, I will probably just DIY the alignment. Between the front wheels, I was only off by 0.03° which is 0.5mm.

My DIY corner balance on a not perfectly flat surface was 3lbs difference on the front axle and 12lbs on the rear. The owner of the scales was pretty surprised it was that close.

Yeah, noticed that after I had already posted, didn't mean to come off some kind of way.

Sounds like a quality DIY kit might be worth having, didn't know you could get it that close.

Unfortunately around here the dealership is almost the only option, you say you have a German car, let alone without stock suspension they practically hang up on you. Last time the dealship did a 4 wheel alignment they wanted $850, fuck that.

I could buy a DIY kit for less than a dealership alignment, sans scales.

[Slideways]

Yeah, noticed that after I had already posted, didn't mean to come off some kind of way.

Sounds like a quality DIY kit might be worth having, didn't know you could get it that close.

Unfortunately around here the dealership is almost the only option, you say you have a German car, let alone without stock suspension they practically hang up on you. Last time the dealship did a 4 wheel alignment they wanted $850, fuck that.

I could buy a DIY kit for less than a dealership alignment, sans scales.

Yeah, I did the alignment exactly how they show in the video and with the same equipment on that not perfectly level surface. It is a bit of a process with the setup and measurements, but it is nice to know that one can do a pretty good job with some simple tools. I always thought that the only way to do a wheel alignment was with a Hunter machine.