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Front Diff bushing is dust too- how screwed am I?

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    Front Diff bushing is dust too- how screwed am I?

    Had previously been under the impression that only the rear diff bushings had turned to dust, and today was the day that I finally (after 2 years of knowing this) said screw it, I want to drive a convertible again. So I went out and decided to start the job and as soon as I tried to unscrew the drain plug, it became quite obvious: front bushing is gone too.

    Not surprising, but I don't think it had been the case before.

    So here's the issue: I'm old now. I have a deformed finger. I no longer possess the desire to clear the hurdles of jack stand DIYs on cars that have sat idle for years, nor do I have the mobility/dexterity I once had either, especially in super tight spaces. With that being said, I still don't really possess a ton of money and the last thing I need to face right now is $1500+ in labor to have someone else deal with this for me.

    So with that said... if my long-term memory serves, the front bushing is a pain even in the best of times, and you need to have the exact right press tool to use the new one to drive the old one out and seat in its place, and this gets even tougher with the subframe still on the car. Right?

    And with the combination of age and now the fact that the bushing is nothing more than a metal edge that's probably pretty well rusted into place in there, what I'm facing is AT BEST a need to engineer myself a reverse hacksaw, cut it out - all in a tight space - and then hope at that point that I have the right combination of Koch tool pieces (I have a bunch of their presses for SF bushings and the rear end ball joints, from once upon a time when I was handy) to press it all back in. And this also assumes that I don't run into any other issues dropping the diff, which should be easy enough and is a job I've done before, but this is an old idle car and my luck we're talking about here, so I'll probably strip a bolt or something.

    Am I just being overly pessimistic here or is this a cut-and-dried case of "just bend over and take it" by sending it to a shop? (And of course, now that I broke the drain plug free, this means I can't even delicately drive it there either... sigh.)

    #2
    Bushing tool is about 80 bucks - https://redeyegarage.com/products/e4...l-bushing-tool

    IIRC, RTAB tool can get it done too - https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...-tool.1227436/

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      #3
      you're being overly pessimistic, you can do this if you take your time


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        #4
        I do have an RTAB tool in addition to the Koch stuff. I do recall that there was a way to just be clever and combine things to do this, but my concern is just the very tight space and my general ability to find new things to break any time I touch a car anymore (I would say "lately" but it's actually going on about 7 years now since I tried doing anything of consequence to an E46.)

        That said, I was not aware of that $80 tool and that is worth it just for the ease. IF we think that the dusted existing one is no issue. Is it possible that with this one being able to be placed so precisely that it'd be able to press out the old one even if all that's left of it is the ring around the edge?

        Originally posted by fattycharged View Post
        you're being overly pessimistic, you can do this if you take your time
        Appreciate the encouragement... I think that in order to commit to even trying it, though, I'd need a lot more, most specifically regarding the hollowed out remnants of that front bushing.

        Of course, where my head is right now I am just of the assumption that it's near 100% that I'll encounter some other major issue like stripping or ruining an output shaft bolt or something else...

        Comment


          #5
          This photo in particular - from the redeye tool reviews - gives me some hope.

          Click image for larger version  Name:	1773159934__1773159921790-img_5371__original.jpeg?auto=format&w=1024.jpg Views:	0 Size:	70.0 KB ID:	352478

          Hard to tell for sure but it kinda looks like it was taken as he was backing the bolt back out after and the bushing is not intact, so likely in the same condition beforehand as mine is.

          with the inner cylinder being fully solid like this one it just might be that my concern here is invalid. Can anyone confirm?

          Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_9583R.jpg?v=1729057155.jpg Views:	0 Size:	98.7 KB ID:	352479


          My confidence is growing. Now... since that front bolt is basically floating in place there, I'm curious what steps I might need to take, if any, to make sure everything is nicely anchored and not at risk for when I try to get that 21mm bolt started on its way out.


          Also... nice to see this place is still hopping. I know that with FB etc having taken over, sale threads aren't quite the same volume as before, but 2 responses quickly on a Saturday makes me happy. Thanks guys.
          Last edited by Dave; 04-18-2026, 09:53 AM.

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            #6
            Just like the RTAB tool, the front bushing tool should have the correct dimensions to remove the whole bushing with the sleeve. Makes bushing removal very easy.

            The not so fun part of replacing that bushing is removing the heavy diff.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Slideways View Post
              Just like the RTAB tool, the front bushing tool should have the correct dimensions to remove the whole bushing with the sleeve. Makes bushing removal very easy.

              The not so fun part of replacing that bushing is removing the heavy diff.
              I actually have that part down to a science for in my garage. The heft-related part, anyway.

              I'm just worried I'm going to end up stripping something very inconvenient due to the age of the car now. My luck tends to run that way.

              Comment


                #8
                Hey Dave, it’s definitely a sucky job so you’re right to think it through thoroughly before haphazardly jumping in. Only you know your own physical limitations. But if you can get the car up in the air a good amount, and have a good way to remove and reinstall the diff, that’s the worst part.

                I had a somewhat different circumstance removing my old bushing (it was poly so it just popped out easily) but I think you should be ready with heat, a saw, and probably a few beers for afterwards if you have to really cro magnon it.

                You can use a RTAB tool from Amazon and return it after the job, you just turn it around so the big flat edge pushes the bushing in. Make sure the angle is right and go slow.
                http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
                '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
                '01 M3, Imola/black

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                  #9
                  Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_9508.jpg Views:	0 Size:	58.7 KB ID:	352538 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_9509.jpg Views:	0 Size:	61.4 KB ID:	352539

                  I made a tool with a large bolt, some washers i ground to fit and a piece of pvc, 2.5 in i. Took maybe 2 mins to make the cuts to use the tool and it worked like a charm.
                  the job sucks because unless you oull the subframe its a tight fit, but its totally do-able in car with some parts removed
                  Theres no reason to buy a fancy tool, this is about $10 in parts from lowes and a bit of your time. I will add pics of what i used
                  Last edited by Kcalhoun27; Yesterday, 09:29 AM.

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