Coolant temp at track

[jk715]

Around town temps read 180-190 f when it’s 80f -83f outside. recently at the track after 2 sessions temp starting going up and reached 230f at one point. Had to pit and let the temps get back below 200f before going back out. Oil temps were fine.

Is it time for a new radiator? Seems to be fine driving around town.

Ran fine last month in 65f weather. But also added CSL airbox since then.

[Casa de Mesa]

I haven't run the s54 on track, but have run V8s DOHC motors extensively. Others may have more to say on this with directly relevant experience, but...

230 is on the higher side, but not ridiculous. Do you know what your oil temps are? I'd pay attention to both.

These cars run THICK oil. Takes a while for the oil to come up to temp, but harder to cool once it's there. Some people I know will run a slightly thinner oil just because of that.

Are you running an additive like Water Wetter or similar? Toss a bottle in if not. It will help more than you might think.

What were the ambient temps on track?

For reference, with a highly modded Ford Cobra 4.6l V8 that spins to 7200 (400hp crank), typically the oil is 230-235 and the water is 215-225. Runs there all day long at race conditions.

I wouldnt think you'd want to keep the temps there for a long time, but I'd also see if you can get info from someone that runs these motors. Maybe give Rogue Engineering a call if no one here has better info than what I can provide. Ask them what weight oil they run too. Get some additive.

[jk715]

ambient was at 83F at the track. Oil temps were close to 3/4 on the gauge. Would be great to get oil temp readings into torque app via custom PIDs, if anyone knows how.

I'll give water wetter a try. I assume it's safe to mix with the bmw 50/50 coolant. I guess I can test it out around town with back to back comparisons. I'll post results/logs here.

[Sharocks]

I'm on the same boat except it was 90+ today in Boston. I'm driving on the highway and kinda messing around. My oil temp gets up but my coolant temp was getting up there. I haven't seen that before however I was running water wetter prior to this coolant flush. I'm thinking going for a CSF but eh.

[Obioban]

If your coolant temps are elevating, it’s time for a cooling system refresh. Stock/healthy, they don’t really move.

Don’t subject your engine to water wetter if you can avoid it.

Oil temps elevating on track is normal. Coolant is not.

[Casa de Mesa]

If your coolant temps are elevating, it’s time for a cooling system refresh. Stock/healthy, they don’t really move.

And there you have it.

Don’t subject your engine to water wetter if you can avoid it.

Curious as to why? Been running it in an all-aluminum setup (block, heads, rad) for 20 years and never had a hint of an issue. I've had race engine builders recommend it. I've done this in 50/50 mix setups (coolant/water) and pure water + water wetter (or equivalent).

[FBloggs]

Around town temps read 180-190 f when it’s 80f -83f outside. recently at the track after 2 sessions temp starting going up and reached 230f at one point. Had to pit and let the temps get back below 200f before going back out. Oil temps were fine.

Is it time for a new radiator? Seems to be fine driving around town.

Ran fine last month in 65f weather. But also added CSL airbox since then.

I think you'd be correct to be concerned...A lengthy block, and cylinder head, I'd be worried about the head gasket.

[jk715]

Sounds like a cooling system refresh is in order. I have the refresh kit minus radiator at this point. Is OEM radiator sufficient? Should i be looking at aftermarket? Any recommendations?

[jk715]

I think you'd be correct to be concerned...A lengthy block, and cylinder head, I'd be worried about the head gasket.

I did check for oil and coolant mixtures and looked clean. Compression check will be done next time the covers off.

[M3tro81]

recently at the track after 2 sessions temp starting going up and reached 230f at one point. Had to pit and let the temps get back below 200f before going back out.

might be better to stay out on track but short shift. Keeps the benefit you get of increased airflow. Before my cooling system refresh at VIR in summer I would see temps like yours, back out of it for 1/2 - 3/4 of a lap and then typically be full up for the rest of the session.

I’ve since upgraded with new water pump, Koyorad rad, CSF oil cooler, BW silicone hoses and all new seals/orings.

[jk715]

Also forgot to mention under drive pulleys were added recently. I’m guessing this exposed the cooling system issue as it’s the only real change that directly effects the cooling system.

Any recs on radiators?

[jk715]

might be better to stay out on track but short shift. Keeps the benefit you get of increased airflow. Before my cooling system refresh at VIR in summer I would see temps like yours, back out of it for 1/2 - 3/4 of a lap and then typically be full up for the rest of the session.

I’ve since upgraded with new water pump, Koyorad rad, CSF oil cooler, BW silicone hoses and all new seals/orings.

Yea, i pitted the first time the temps got high but stayed on with cool down laps afterwards. I was hoping to push off radiator/oil cooler till winter. I think I’ll add a little more water to the mixture and run as is till then.

I think i was pushing a little too hard being the first event of the year. Although with 3.5 secs improvement, it was worth it?!?

[Obioban]

New stock is fine and will not overheat.

[ViN]

If your coolant temps are elevating, it’s time for a cooling system refresh. Stock/healthy, they don’t really move.

Don’t subject your engine to water wetter if you can avoid it.

Oil temps elevating on track is normal. Coolant is not.

When you say refresh, just changing certain things or do you mean an entire coolant refresh kit such as FCP offers?

[Obioban]

Curious as to why? Been running it in an all-aluminum setup (block, heads, rad) for 20 years and never had a hint of an issue. I've had race engine builders recommend it. I've done this in 50/50 mix setups (coolant/water) and pure water + water wetter (or equivalent).

Over time it builds up deposits on the coolant passages in the engine and/or on cooling system components. As always, with such things, if it was "only better" it would just be part of coolant to start with.

Since our stock cooling system, when healthy, is more than adequate to keep coolant well within range in pretty much any conditions, no reason to use it.

When you say refresh, just changing certain things or do you mean an entire coolant refresh kit such as FCP offers?

Radiator
thermostat
water pump
fan clutch
tubing
o rings
temp sensor
coolant (Bmw mixed 50:50 with distilled water)

They all get used up at around the same age, so you might as well do it all at once. I’d only use the stock and clutch and water pump, and would only switch rads to aftermarket if going to Zionville.