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    Liquimoly Ceratec

    How do we feel about Ceratec?

    Purchased my car with 96K "well cared for" miles, 3-3500 mile oil changes under my ownership, now at 109K.

    Guaranteed I'll need rod bearings, because M3 (don't need to beat that topic to death), but would like to be as safe as possible until I can actually get to them.



    Also, performing an oil change this week, and sending out a sample to Blackstone. Should I go all in and just add the Ceratec, or wait until my analysis is back on the off chance it shows no copper?


    #2
    I'd save the money for the bearing replacement.

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      #3
      Oil from a snake

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        #4
        I used their engine flush prior to my last oil change, then used the Ceratec after fresh oil was added. Can't confirm if it actually does anything, but for $40 for both additives I figured it wouldn't hurt to try.
        '06 BMW M3 6MT Coupe - TiAg/Imola
        '99 BMW M3 5MT Coupe - Estoril/Dove
        '00 Honda Civic Si - Electron Blue Pearl/Black
        '11 Toyota Tacoma T/X TRD - Magnetic Grey/Grey

        Instagram: @6spd_M3 | @midwesteuroparts



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          #5
          It's may be needed if you use their oil as they don't put much MOS2 in it to begin with. If the oil has sufficient amounts, then why waste your money? If it doesn't, why are you using that oil? I made the switch to Motul(finally) and I'm not going back. I'm in the boat with those saying "snake oil". It sort of is. Yes it can probably do what it's advertised to a certain extent but it's really not going to prolong your engine life. Where it would need to build up and cause a layer of protection are the areas that'll just scrape it off immediately. Then you can also end up adding way too much Molybendum to your oil which is bad. I like Motul. It's just one of the best oil companies in my opinion. They are literally the sponsoring oil is all my favorite racing competitions. The fact that they are partnered for the Le Mans 24 hour says quite a bit to me. It's also the gold standard in motorcycles. Also, no additives required.
          This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
          https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

          "Do it right once or do it twice"

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            #6
            its a scam, if the product is any good it should be in their oil so just use the oil, if its not then its BS. they make it so they can change $100/L to fix problems that dont exist

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
              It's may be needed if you use their oil as they don't put much MOS2 in it to begin with. If the oil has sufficient amounts, then why waste your money? If it doesn't, why are you using that oil? I made the switch to Motul(finally) and I'm not going back. I'm in the boat with those saying "snake oil". It sort of is. Yes it can probably do what it's advertised to a certain extent but it's really not going to prolong your engine life. Where it would need to build up and cause a layer of protection are the areas that'll just scrape it off immediately. Then you can also end up adding way too much Molybendum to your oil which is bad. I like Motul. It's just one of the best oil companies in my opinion. They are literally the sponsoring oil is all my favorite racing competitions. The fact that they are partnered for the Le Mans 24 hour says quite a bit to me. It's also the gold standard in motorcycles. Also, no additives required.
              hate to tell you sponsoring is just about money zero to do with oil being good, bad or otherwise. there are plenty of race teams with decals of brand XYZ oil but they use something toltally different when it matters

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                #8
                Originally posted by digger View Post

                hate to tell you sponsoring is just about money zero to do with oil being good, bad or otherwise. there are plenty of race teams with decals of brand XYZ oil but they use something toltally different when it matters
                You do have a point there. The teams they sponsor directly use their oil. Running oil in a 24 hour race is enough to make me a believer. Sadly 300V isn't quite meant for our engines, but their 10w-60 will do.
                There's a youtube video about bogus "sponsors" I think you'd like.
                This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                "Do it right once or do it twice"

                Comment


                  #9
                  no amount of MoS2 or ceratec will prevent you from a blown motor at 109k. park it till you do the rod bearings, your car is a ticking time bomb at this point..... yes many have made it to over 150k on factory installed bearings but people have also blown motors before 100k too
                  2005 Phoenix Yellow M3 Coupe 6spd
                  2013 Interlagos Blue M3 Coupe 6spd ZCP, CF roof
                  2007 Imola Red Z4M Coupe

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                    #10
                    I think the consensus on M3Forum was that it wasn’t all it was cracked up to be and that it led to sludge in the oil pan.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Maxima SE View Post
                      people have also blown motors before 100k too
                      71k for me. I used ceratec.

                      I didn't know it could cause sludge but it makes sense that it does.
                      This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                      https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                      "Do it right once or do it twice"

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Ruley View Post
                        I think the consensus on M3Forum was that it wasn’t all it was cracked up to be and that it led to sludge in the oil pan.
                        Not sludge, but the comment from Lang was that most of the MoS2 (that he uses in his race cars) would just end up at the bottom of the pan when I spoke to him about using additives.


                        Originally posted by Maxima SE View Post
                        no amount of MoS2 or ceratec will prevent you from a blown motor at 109k. park it till you do the rod bearings, your car is a ticking time bomb at this point..... yes many have made it to over 150k on factory installed bearings but people have also blown motors before 100k too
                        Agreed.

                        OP - Just save up and get your bearings changed out ASAP. MoS2 is just Molybdenum, which is already used in most oil (except Liqui Moly - how ironic!). Ceratec is just Boron and is also already found in most of today's oil.

                        With that said, here's my personal experience with various oil additives - with oil analysis to back it up. Yes...I used my own engine to experiment for you all I have a long-winded post on Zpost if you want to read more about it => https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthr...t=oil+analysis
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by Xmetal; 06-20-2020, 10:29 AM.

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                          #13
                          To-may-toe - to-mah-toe... Different strokes for different folks... Everyone has a different way of saying, and doing things, which is a good thing. In the beginning, I’ll admit it, I was fairly skeptical about LiquiMoly’s line of oil treatments. I did some reading online and from my point of view, I’d give it a try. MoS2 is a proven lubricant.

                          After using both products, I can’t verify improved gas mileage, but I can say my car does run a bit cooler; up to about an outside temperature of 90 deg F, the water temp gauge needle stays left of the 12:00 o’clock position, say at the 11:00 o’clock position. When the outside temperature reaches the 93 deg F threshold, and I’m crawling in traffic with no high, or highway speed airflow to the radiator, then the coolant temp needle moves to the 12:00 o’clock. Lastly, the engine appears to spin-up just a hair quicker after Ceratec & MoS2; the lower coolant temperature and the zingy-er feeling makes some sense. This is good enough for me, and I am under no delusion that an oil treatment will not fix, not repair worn metallic parts; believing so, in my opinion, is unsound reasoning.

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                            #14
                            Coolant temps indicate cooling system condition.

                            2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
                            2012 LMB/Black 128i
                            2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by jacketedlobster View Post
                              Should I go all in and just add the Ceratec, or wait until my analysis is back on the off chance it shows no copper?
                              Don't know what you mean by "all-in", because changing your oil isn't going to save your bearings if they're worn out. These engines eat bearings. There's not much that can be done except to monitor the oil reports and plan for a bearing change when it's appropriate.
                              2002 M3 Coupe | 1988 320i Touring

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