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Liquimoly Ceratec

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    #16
    Originally posted by Speed Monkey View Post
    Lastly, the engine appears to spin-up just a hair quicker after Ceratec & MoS2; the lower coolant temperature and the zingy-er feeling makes some sense. This is good enough for me, and I am under no delusion that an oil treatment will not fix, not repair worn metallic parts; believing so, in my opinion, is unsound reasoning.
    Not buying it. That would mean a very VERY significant decrease in friction and a significant boost in HP. If it was that good, it would be in every high performance oil (I guess MoS2 is, unless its liqui moly lol) and every race car. It claims to stop metal on metal contact but last time I checked, regular motor oil does the same thing. And what the heck is up with them not having moly in their oil yet call themselves, liqui moly, loco.
    All, ALL of these additives are unicorn oil milked straight from their horns. They prey on buyers that want to believe and give them the "feel goods" for "caring" for their "baby" by using "special sauce" developed and tested in "labs" under "special" conditions to give special "results".
    To each their own, I just don't get it.

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      #17
      Oil analysis can't tell you the condition of your engine or bearings. In my opinion, it's a waste of money like oil additives.

      There are just so many missing data points and you have metal sitting at the bottom of your pan where a lot of metal is probably going. This is not coming out with an oil change. Also, if something is larger than 5 microns, they don't measure it. The only way to know the condition of your bearings is to look at them with your eyeballs. People have perfect analysis with trash bearings and aweful ones with good bearings. If copper is wearing, you would think it'd be in the report. It's because it isn't accurate. The copper didn't evaporate when it wore off the bearings.

      If you want a real test of how long bearings last, mutiple engines are needed and the conditions have to match almost perfectly between them all. Every single drive must be around the same temp at the same speed, under the same load. The bearings should be measured often, examined regularly, and oil should then be tested for viscosity and boiling points at multiple intervals. If the oils vary, then new oil, produced in the same batch, should replace it. This would be something we could get behind as a community but who has thousands of dollars to perform this? I don't expect anyone to undergo this.

      We talk about using facts but there's so much that is subjective here. We all have opinions but we have no real scientific data proving MOS2 or oil analysis work as "advertised". Therefore, my opinion is that the are a waste.
      This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
      https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

      "Do it right once or do it twice"

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        #18
        Originally posted by Maxima SE View Post
        no amount of MoS2 or ceratec will prevent you from a blown motor at 109k. park it till you do the rod bearings, your car is a ticking time bomb at this point..... yes many have made it to over 150k on factory installed bearings but people have also blown motors before 100k too
        This.

        Mine spun rod # 3 bearing at 93k km. Yeah I drive it hard, but i've owned for 5+ years, oil changed every 5k km, etc. Sent off oil analysis to Blackstone the 2 oil changes before it spun. No abnormal readings with wear metals etc. These motors can and will spin a bearing without much notice.

        What I'm saying is save the $$ and have the bearings done or you run the risk of going down the path of a full engine rebuild.
        Last edited by Syfon; 06-27-2020, 08:41 AM.

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          #19
          Appreciate all the help.

          And know it's a gamble without just cracking open the motor.

          My previous car was a 02' Carbon Black / Dove/ SMG. 2 Owner, 170K mile car, original bearings. Got it for cheap enough that it was worth the experience, but knew it wasn't the car to put the money into. 100% stock, no specialty preventative.

          I'll hold off on the additives and save the cash for the full job. Already pieced together my kit, went ACL bearings.

          Can I turn this into an oil thread... Liqui Moly vs Motul 8100?

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