MSS54 EWS Delete - Anyone Successful?

[notrod]

Ciao Folks - Longtime lurker, first-time poster; has anyone had success with the EWS-delete for the MSS54? I acquired my roughed-up E46 M3 (MY-2003, BD-2002/11) and procured a door/ignition key (grey) from the BMW dealership.

No Crank.

After further troubleshooting I discovered the car was sans-EWS so I figured I'd flash the DME with the EWS-delete (replaced hex-values from the partial .bin file from 64 00 5a 00 00 with 64 01 5a 00 00) and try to start her up again.

Still no dice.

I've read on another forum that on an MS42 EWS' you need to jump Pins 1/3 on the EWS connector; does this pertain to the MSS54/EWS3.3 as well? Via INPA I've extracted the following fault codes:

Code	Description	Error Frequency	Logistic Counter
54	System Voltage Main Relay	1	32
66	DME-EWS Communication	9	40
105	Engine Coolant Temperature Implausibile	8	40
107	Electronic Throttle Self Test	3	40
118	Electronic Throttle Potentiometer Bank 1	1	40
126	Electronic Fuel Pump Crash Deactivation	1	39
130	EWS 3.3 Anti Tampering Protection	2	40
134	CAN Timeout Instrument Cluster	7	40
181	Fuel Filler Cap Open	1	39

Any guidance on this would be appreciated!



-Rod

[notrod]

SOLVED:

MSS54/HP Delete

1. Extract partial .bin file from DME using BMWFlash
2. Modify hex code (I used HxD) by doing a find/replace of 64005a0000 with 64015a0000. Save new .bin file; give it another name to keep the native file.
3. Reflash the new .bin file using BMWFlash
4. Proceed to the EWS Connector; jumper pins 1 and 2 (see photos)
5. Turn key, cross fingers!

[Obioban]

You can also do it with a mouse click with the binary modification tool, IIRC

[332]

Heyo, lurker lots here! I am completing a S54B32 swap into a ms42 car.. I would like to thank Obioban for bringing up the Binary Mod Tool, I would encourage people to support that man! The difference on ms42 ews is you need to bridge pin 1 and 3. Also to the OP, TY!

[nextelbuddy]

You don't actually have to bridge any pins regardless of which DME your car originally was.

I've done this before with swaps in MS42/43/45 and 45.1 cars.. simply EWS deleting on the software side with the s54 DME has always been just fine.

If you find yourself having to jump the actual pins in the EWS module itself then you have another EWS related issue with either the EWS module and a mismatch between the key or the transponder and the key is bad.

EWS in the DME is kind of separate from the EWS key system.

The EWS module in the car looks to pair with the transponder in the key and then it looks to pair with the DME itself and if there is a mismatch anywhere then you get the EWS tampering code like you saw above.

When you EWS delete on the S54 DME or any DME you are removing the DME from that equation and the EWS module is now simply looking for a proper matchup with the key transponder itself and that's it so if at that point you're still getting an EWS related error then it's a bad module or a bad key or a mismatch between the two.

[HoDoo]

[SOLVED]

I finally succeeded.
It turns out my mistake was assuming that the engine wouldn't start because the 0x82 DTC existed, so I didn't attempt it.

Since I didn't disable the DTC, the code still shows up, but I confirmed that the engine can start.

If using a normal set of EWS - keys, jumpering the pins on the EWS connector is unnecessary.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello,

This thread is old, so I'm not sure if anyone will respond, but I have a question.

I've heard that to delete EWS, just need to change the first "00" in "64 00 5a 00 00."
However, even after modifying that part in the hex editor, updating the CRC, and flashing, EWS is still not deleted from my DME.

To verify if the flashing was done correctly, I extracted the partial bin after flashing,
and I found that the part "64 00 5a 00 00" had been accurately modified to "64 01 5a 00 00."

1. Would there be any difference if I only modify the partial bin and flash compared to modifying the full bin and then flashing?
2. Should I also remove the EWS module attached to the vehicle?

Even after modifying only the "64 00 5a 00 00" part of the partial bin in a DME while maintaining properly functioning EWS,
the "EWS 3.3 Anti Tampering Protection" still appears, and the engine turns off immediately after cranking.
Even clearing the DTCs does not remove the "EWS 3.3 Anti Tampering Protection."

nextelbuddy said, "You don't actually have to bridge any pins regardless of which DME your car originally was." so I didn't do it, but is it correct to connect the pins?
I'm curious if shorting the pins on the connector implies not using the EWS module.


I really hope someone can help.
Thanks for reading.