Help refreshing tckline da suspension

[CrisSilberGrau]

Finally got around to dropping the suspension and looking at everything since I bought the car late last year. Background is PO drove it in winter, and well...

[CrisSilberGrau]

Posted the above from my phone for ease of use for photos.

I never noticed the cracked nut due to the plastic caps. Not an excuse my fault as I've been putting this off. I'm almost 100% that this did not happen during my ownership, during my test drive there was a spring binding noise coming from the driver side that the PO told me might be a failed bearing. Confirmed with TcKline that it might be a Com10T bearing going out. It took me about half an hour to extract the broken nut with minimal damage to the threading of the bolt.

What I'd like to know is if the bolt (braket), if you can call it that, is stock BMW. As you can see in the second pic thread engagement is way below minimum, its only in the neck area of the nut. Through measuring the bolt from the neck up is about 35mm, I'd need ones that are at minimum 10mm longer so about 45mm. Where can I source these and do they need to be in the welded bracket format?

Please advise on what else I can do here. This is drivers side only. I will get to all four corners and update this thread.

[duracellttu]

Those are definitely not stock BMW strut hats. See the link below for what the OEM hats look like.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...hoCdkYQAvD_BwE

What camber plates are you using? Doesnt make sense that there aren't enough threads to catch the nut properly. Id'd consider get new camber plates, which you will need in order to adjust the camber properly since the car is likely lowered with that setup.

[r4dr]

Those are TCK camber plates but something is very off with them.

[CrisSilberGrau]

Been on the phone with tbone. Here's the way it's currently installed on the passenger side.

[CrisSilberGrau]

Passenger side, unloosened. Maybe 4 threads being used in the shoulder/neck. My bad for not taking this apart earlier.

[r4dr]

I don't think this will change your stack height issue, but aren't the reinforcement plates supposed to go on the top of the stack?

It almost looks like the stud length is for E46 non-M cars since they wouldn't have the strut tower brace.

Edit: early TCK plates had short (too short w/ brace) studs, later plates came with longer studs. I think that's your problem right there. Do you know how old the TCK setup is?

[CrisSilberGrau]

Is there a link to that? On their website they don't show bolt length. I cant put it back together since one nut is disintegrated.

[r4dr]

Is there a link to that? On their website they don't show bolt length. I cant put it back together since one nut is disintegrated.

Can't remember where the forum thread I came across is. I would call TCK tomorrow and ask them about this – that bolt isn't long enough for that strut brace, unless there's something else wrong. If you're having to buy new bearings anyway I would recommend a new camber plate (and springs maybe?) depending on the costs.

[elbert]

What I'd like to know is if the bolt (braket), if you can call it that, is stock BMW. As you can see in the second pic thread engagement is way below minimum, its only in the neck area of the nut. Through measuring the bolt from the neck up is about 35mm, I'd need ones that are at minimum 10mm longer so about 45mm. Where can I source these and do they need to be in the welded bracket format?

That bolt bracket is a specific part for TCK camber plates.
The one you have is an older version, from around 2004 or so. They since then made the bracket with longer bolts.
One thing to mention is to not over torque those nuts. I think the recommended torque was around 15 ft-lb (but don't quote me on that). The spot weld that holds the screw onto the bracket can break very easily. When I had those plates on my car, I brought a spare pair to my track events for that reason

FYI, COM10T is a common bearing. I had bought a pair of NHBB, which is far superior to Aurora. If you go with NHBB, their part number is ABT10.

[duracellttu]

I would call TCK and see if they can help you out with the parts you need. Unless you plan to just buy new camber plates.

[CrisSilberGrau]

I cant see anything wrong with the camber plates, unless you guys see something I dont. elbert you have a link for those? and what are the main differences? Thanks guys, I'm calling them no matter what. Every time I decide to do some work on the car I discover something that's been butchered, kinda disheartening since I think most work was done at indie shops. Sigh.

[elbert]

I cant see anything wrong with the camber plates, unless you guys see something I dont. elbert you have a link for those? and what are the main differences? Thanks guys, I'm calling them no matter what. Every time I decide to do some work on the car I discover something that's been butchered, kinda disheartening since I think most work was done at indie shops. Sigh.

IIRC, axial load rating of the NHBB was significantly higher than the Aurora. This means it should be more durable when properly installed. Granted, they're $40 per bearing, versus $10.

http://www.lambcomponents.com/nhbb-narrow-series-sperical-bearings-c-4_21_69/abt10-nhbb-5-8-spherical-bearing-p-495

I forgot to mention, make sure you get the correct replacement nuts. pn 51717895241
They're not cheap.

[Shadytype]

Reinforcement plates (BMW ones) go below the the frame of the car. The top most item on the strut. I have the same setup. As mentioned, the nuts dont do a lot, other then hild the strut to the frame, in case you go off some sweet jumps, it stays connected. The other times, the weight of the car keeps things connected.

I have the same setup. Lots of track days, they dont move near as I can tell. Caster and camber are adjusted up top. Thats wheere the half moon looking thing comes into play.

If you were original ownet, all of that is lifetime warranty. Definetly give them a call, they answer the phone and have been helpful to me.

[CrisSilberGrau]

Talking to tckline this morning the rep mentioned that use of the reinforcement plate is not needed. The bolt plate I have is the one they currently make, 34mm from the neck up, still seems super short to me. Best solution is to grab bolts that are just longer.