Planning some maintenance (suspension, bearings, VANOS, etc.) - advice needed

[eljay]

My 2006 is at 97k now and my oil analysis says I should get the rod bearings done.

I will also be finally installing my Bilstein B12 kit along with GC camber plates and replacing other suspension bits (front control arms, tie rods, F/R sway bar links and bushings + other bits I'll discover).

Since I didn't do anything with VANOS yet (besides changing the filter and its o-rings) and my indy shop says the seals are starting to leak, it's time. I'll use Beisan parts.

Now, looking through the service records, I see that my Inspection II was done in two parts:
- 77.3k (valve adjustment, coolant flush, spark plug tube seals, valve cover gasket) - results below
- 78.9k miles (remainder of Insp II fluids changed).
I don't see spark plugs being changed, so I'll add that to my list.
Since I will have the valve cover off, I guess new gasket is in order and I'm thinking of trying to DIY the valve adjustment as it's been 20k since the last one and, according to the attached results, the resulting specs left about half of the valves at the upper threshold. Any opinions on that? Also, what are the ideal gap numbers to target during an adjustment?

I know I'm nearing the magic "100k" when tons of other stuff is recommended, especially, a cooling system overhaul. Is that something I should "just do" or can I wait another 5k or so? While the mileage is low that coolant has now aged quite a bit, right? The above list has already crept up into thousands of $, so perhaps I can postpone some items, at the same time, lot of the parts will be removed for access, so it may be easier to just do everything.

Another dumb question: as I just changed oil - I know I'll just have to dump it all now. - should I add Seafoam to it before I drain it to clean the internals a bit before I get the oil pan off etc. for the bearings?

[beefaroni]

The cooling system should be done for peace of mind but its not a "while you're in there" item when you are doing the VANOS work.

Letting the engine idle while hot for a couple minutes with Seafoam in it (no load) seems innocent enough to help clean things up a bit inside. I dont think its necessary though. Sometimes solvents can dislodge sludge and create bigger issues, but its probably something that I would do personally just because it would be satisfying to my automotive OCD

Target the middle range of the valve adjustment. Valve clearance gets smaller as the valve seat compresses/valve flattens. The clearance can get larger with cam/follower wear. If a valve is on the ragged edge but in range, i'd still adjust it to get it in the middle

[eljay]

The cooling system should be done for peace of mind but its not a "while you're in there" item when you are doing the VANOS work.

Letting the engine idle while hot for a couple minutes with Seafoam in it (no load) seems innocent enough to help clean things up a bit inside. I dont think its necessary though. Sometimes solvents can dislodge sludge and create bigger issues, but its probably something that I would do personally just because it would be satisfying to my automotive OCD

Target the middle range of the valve adjustment. Valve clearance gets smaller as the valve seat compresses/valve flattens. The clearance can get larger with cam/follower wear. If a valve is on the ragged edge but in range, i'd still adjust it to get it in the middle

Thank you for the reply and tips!
Yes, I have used Seafoam on other engines before and I believe once on this one. Since I'm dumping the fresh oil so quickly, I thought I might as well do that.
I haven't looked into what it takes to service the entire cooling system, so I'll see when to do that and what the tab will be.

[LukesM]

I’m in the middle of doing full Beisan lockdown as well as header install. Hopefully turner intake too if I get that mess sorted. I did the valve adjustment which was pretty simple. I also questioned targeting middle of spec for clearance but I got reply’s that spec is spec. So as long as it was in range I didn’t mess with it.

I’m also contemplating doing cooling system overhaul but I don’t want to take on too much at once. I plan on holding off on the coolant work until fall. I also have fcab and rtab to install but I may wait to do the rtabs when I do full rear subframe overhaul. Try to make sure you plan what you will do well and get all the parts needed prior to starting. I feel like I keep having to order odd bits and pieces and then wait for parts.

currently waiting for crank pulley timing pin. Kinda dumb it doesn’t come with the cam timing kit. Bmw dealer actually had the best price but didn’t have any in stock.

[eacmen]

You may want to consider getting a fully rebuilt VANOS unit from a reputable source. I used Mike from Naturally Agitated in Colorado. But there are several reputable shops that rebuild and bench test the units.

Its a more expensive option but you will have the peace of mind that the unit you are installing is known good.

[SteelGreyM]

You may want to consider getting a fully rebuilt VANOS unit from a reputable source. I used Mike from Naturally Agitated in Colorado. But there are several reputable shops that rebuild and bench test the units.

Its a more expensive option but you will have the peace of mind that the unit you are installing is known good.

I wouldn’t do this. Anybody with enough knowledge to remove the VANOS unit can remove and replace a few o-rings. And save yourself hundreds...

[eacmen]

I wouldn’t do this. Anybody with enough knowledge to remove the VANOS unit can remove and replace a few o-rings. And save yourself hundreds...

If you are only doing the sealing plate o-rings then ok. But the full beisan treatment is more involved than just cutting o-rings out and re-installing them. The unit really should be put in an ultrasonic parts cleaner before reassembly.

These VANOS units are showing their age. Not all units are rebuildable and hold pressure. But to each his own. I'll gladly pay someone who has the ability to pressure test it after the rebuild than rebuild it myself and rolling the dice. Both VANOS units I got from Mike passed the DIS VANOS test with flying colors. Remember that VANOS oil pressure can reach nearly 2000 psi, even small leak can have significant impact. If you're doing it just to bulletproof the engine then go for it. But if you're trying to regain lost performance then pressure testing it is the only way to know its good before re-installing it. I would rather avoid having to remove the VANOS again if at all possible.

[eljay]

Revisiting this as I will have some time next week to tackle some of this, but not sure how much I want to bite off. My question is mostly around logical sequence for this service. Do I have this right?
1. Valve adjustment
2. VANOS service
3. Rod bearings
4. Front suspension refresh upon re-assembly (struts, camber plates, tie rods, bushings, control arms)

I have yet to order VANOS parts from Beisan, so that part may not be possible. And I don't have timing tools yet, either.
Can I tackle the other jobs still? I've read that it's best to do VANOS first in case something drops into the oil pan, then I could retrieve it during the rod bearing portion.
Also, on the front suspension... there are various approaches in the DIY I've read in terms what to remove and keep together. Since I want to replace struts and control arms, those are probably best taken off while everything else is bolted to the car, correct? I can imagine it would be difficult getting enough leverage to get struts and control arms out of the knuckles if the whole subframe is out of the car.

Thanks for any tips for the order in which I should tackle this!

[karter16]

If it's helpful I did a fairly comprehensive underbody refresh about 3 years ago. I have a spreadsheet with a fairly comprehensive list of wearable parts, single use bolts, etc. with part numbers that I'd be happy to share if it's of any use.

[eljay]

If it's helpful I did a fairly comprehensive underbody refresh about 3 years ago. I have a spreadsheet with a fairly comprehensive list of wearable parts, single use bolts, etc. with part numbers that I'd be happy to share if it's of any use.

Sure!
Any help is great. Thank you!

[Phoenix///M3]

I didn't read all the way to the top but with the work underneath it's also a good time to address power steering reservoir / lines, steering guibo (use new bolts) cooling system, idler pulley, tensioners, belts, engine mounts if any of that is not already done.

On the front suspension question you can follow the rod bearing DIY as the OP of that was replacing at the same time except he didn't do the front struts but it will be obvious what to do at that point. Harbor freight has the same ball joint separator shown in the DIY for $20 which is a cinch to use.


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[Arith2]

Bearings are 100$ on Amazon and rod bolts are like $60. All of this, excluding the front end refresh, can be done for under $1000 easily. Unless the PS system is leaking, just leave it be besides remove and install. Just get the washers for the banjo bolt. Valveline ATF works just fine unless you have CHF-11. If you can budget for all of these thing people are mentioning, you'll thank yourself later.

One thing I would like to mention is that a rod bearing job is the perfect time to do engine mounts. There will never be a time where it's that easy. Order them and thank me later.