Originally posted by Kdubski
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What stud conversion is every one running
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IMO, yes. They will stick out past the face of the front wheel by quite a bit. FCP does have 44mm studs that they say work with OE wheels and no spacers.
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MSI studs, well recommended from other platforms (Porsche). Tracked for several weekends now, very happy.
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This is the ultimate solution but requires replacing wheel hubs. If you are going with the thread in style just make sure to buy one of the good quality brands already mentioned. If you are going to track your car I cant express enough how these are wear items and need to be replaced ( I do mine once a year). Just look at Core4's website for examples of failed wheel studs.Originally posted by Dptmachine View PostCheck out Core4 Motorsports. Press in wheel studs with some machining when your wheel bearings need there next service. MSI Nascar specs.
Exactly two years ago a fellow cca member ended his season by totaling his car when he sheared all his wheel studs going into turn one. His wheel and tire ended up under the car and it was uncotrolable. I have replaced my wheel studs yearly since then. This past weekend, my last event of the season, I had a similar experience
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I bought turner studs twice and each time they were different. First set was ARP and next set - I'm not sure of the brand. But they were a different shape (slightly more rounded tip)
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They have Motorsport Hardware studs which are just as good or better
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Check out Core4 Motorsports. Press in wheel studs with some machining when your wheel bearings need there next service. MSI Nascar specs.
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+1 to this. On the lowest setting at full throttle my Milwaukee gun tightens to about 70 ft-lbs. I bet they designed it such that the lowest setting on the gun was meant for tightening lug nuts, before final torquing. I still don't really go full throttle with the gun just because it still seems to hammer quite a bit, I'm off the trigger when the nut bottoms out.Originally posted by eacmen View Post
When installing tires I use 20v impact but on the lowest setting. Then follow up with a torque wrench.
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Lug bolts if used in track applications are also a wear item. But nobody really uses them at the track.Originally posted by S14 View Post
Are Studs wear items, but stock wheel bolts are not? For the purpose of discussion... what is the difference?
I've run a few different sets of studs on various cars and have heard the "replace studs periodically" mantra on the forums, so this time I went with motorsport hardware studs/nuts purchased through FCP Euro to capitalize on their warranty. The studs feel like high quality, but the nuts felt better than previous hardware I've used. I'm looking forward to seeing how these hold up over extended use.
Quality studs that are not used on hot tire swaps and not over torqued with an impact gun will likely last as long as factory lug bolts.
When installing tires I use 20v impact but on the lowest setting. Then follow up with a torque wrench.
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Originally posted by S14 View Post
Are Studs wear items, but stock wheel bolts are not? For the purpose of discussion... what is the difference?
I've run a few different sets of studs on various cars and have heard the "replace studs periodically" mantra on the forums, so this time I went with motorsport hardware studs/nuts purchased through FCP Euro to capitalize on their warranty. The studs feel like high quality, but the nuts felt better than previous hardware I've used. I'm looking forward to seeing how these hold up over extended use.
There is a very good stud failure discussion here: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1296624 It is track-specific with few lessons to be drawn for street.
FWIW - these are Bimmerworld studs that failed on the rear of an M4 last year at Summit Point:
If you look closely you will see corrosion crept in on most of the studs through apparent hairline cracks (thats rust - not dirt). The belief is that those cracks were caused by using an impact wrench for tire and brake work - torquing repeatedly to unknown values. (I don't use an impact wrench on my stud nuts without a torque stick).Last edited by Estoril; 07-09-2020, 08:07 AM.
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Are Studs wear items, but stock wheel bolts are not? For the purpose of discussion... what is the difference?Originally posted by Estoril View PostStuds for what use?
Street = OE bolts.
Reminder: Studs are wear items requiring regular replacement.
I've run a few different sets of studs on various cars and have heard the "replace studs periodically" mantra on the forums, so this time I went with motorsport hardware studs/nuts purchased through FCP Euro to capitalize on their warranty. The studs feel like high quality, but the nuts felt better than previous hardware I've used. I'm looking forward to seeing how these hold up over extended use.
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Good Day All:
For those of you removing and installing 12mm X 1.5 wheel studs, here's a couple of tools you many want to consider. They also come in other sizes.
Snap On Stud Remover: https://shop.snapon.com/product/MSK-M1215R
Snap On Stud Installer: https://shop.snapon.com/product/MSK-M1215N
I like the fact the stud installer gives you the option to torque in the studs to specs. Pretty easy to use per Snap On's web site video.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/productvide...d%20MSKM10.mp4
Hope this helps.
Feff
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I opted to use the Core4 Motorsports bolt through MSI studs. I was in the process of replacing my wheel bearings anyways and sent them my new front and rear hubs. This bolt-through design eliminates the failure point in the standard design and these same studs are used in NASCAR.
On a side note, what is is the highest quality stud nut on the market?
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