Review: Cobra Nogaro seats (uniquely street friendly fixed back bucket seat)

[Pklauser]

I haven’t.

I can fit my 275 track wheels through. However, it’s 4 bolts/1 minute to remove the seat— so I just do that, to avoid scuffing up the interior.

275s, awesome. Sounds like my 255s would probably slot in then.

On removing the seat, I would've imagined the bolts against the trans tunnel would be difficult to get to.

Anyone in NJ/MD/VA area have these in their car? I sat in them at HMS, but I'm having a hard time imagining how they feel *in* an E46. My main concern is long-trip comfort as I still drive the car up to 7 hours at a time.

[Obioban]

Ian, have you ever measured the distance here from seatback to B pillar? Curious if I'll be able to fit my track wheels in the gap and it would be great to have a definitive answer.

I haven’t.

I can fit my 275 track wheels through. However, it’s 4 bolts/1 minute to remove the seat— so I just do that, to avoid scuffing up the interior.

[Pklauser]

Ian, have you ever measured the distance here from seatback to B pillar? Curious if I'll be able to fit my track wheels in the gap and it would be great to have a definitive answer.

[mrgizmo04]

That’s just how the quick fits are— not unique to the Nogaros.

…but, yeah, that’s how my sub strap is run— only I used a two bar slide instead of 3, because it’s more compact.

Yes, definitely not seat's fault, more just any 4 point (that's why I mentioned it above) with any seat has this problem, just not safe.

On the 2 vs 3 bar slide, yeah I thought about it, don't have any lying around and didn't want to make it a custom order with extra parts for extra $ at the time because the strap comes with 3. At some point I'll reroute it.

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[Obioban]

Few questions came up on the seats that I haven't seen addressed above.

On weight saving. Stock seats are about 65 lbs each, mounting a Nogaro on manual slider will put total Nogaro weight (seat+mount+manual slider) around 31 lbs per seat, with power slider it will be like 3 lbs more. So you are netting about 30 lbs of weight saving per seat.

Those running circuit version and quick fits (probably any other 4 point applies as well). No matter how tight you make the lap belts across your lap/hips, after tightening the shoulder straps and jamming the brakes once on track, the lap belt will ride up. This is a safety no no because when it rides up, it places the lap belt portion across your stomach, and your internals can not withstand the forces in a case something goes south. The lap belt part is supposed to sit on your pelvis/hip bones.

Which brings me to the need for the substrap and the sub mount. You can order the substrap from Schroth, but to properly mount it on the subbar, you need to remove the snap on ends (what I marked in red) and wrap the belt around the yellow lines (which replicates the subbar itself). This is in first pic.

On the subbar, the "handle" looking thing is not reinforced enough to take the force, so wrap the substrap ends around the bar itself. The outboard side should sit outside the handle, the inboard side should sit inside the handle, per second pic. That will provide proper spread to wrap around the legs and function like a proper 6 point.

And please wear a HANS.



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That’s just how the quick fits are— not unique to the Nogaros.

…but, yeah, that’s how my sub strap is run— only I used a two bar slide instead of 3, because it’s more compact.

[Cubieman]

Thinking I'm ordering seats tomorrow, staying with the power sliders, using the E30 switch.

Now I just have the headache of seat heats, they are rarely used but I'm obsessed with getting some as I don't like the idea of obsolete buttons not to mention seat heats are nice on those winter drives.

I'll have to read this whole thread and begin my search for a non-destructive wiring method for everything I'd like to do.

[mrgizmo04]

Few questions came up on the seats that I haven't seen addressed above.

On weight saving. Stock seats are about 65 lbs each, mounting a Nogaro on manual slider will put total Nogaro weight (seat+mount+manual slider) around 31 lbs per seat, with power slider it will be like 3 lbs more. So you are netting about 30 lbs of weight saving per seat.

Those running circuit version and quick fits (probably any other 4 point applies as well). No matter how tight you make the lap belts across your lap/hips, after tightening the shoulder straps and jamming the brakes once on track, the lap belt will ride up. This is a safety no no because when it rides up, it places the lap belt portion across your stomach, and your internals can not withstand the forces in a case something goes south. The lap belt part is supposed to sit on your pelvis/hip bones.

Which brings me to the need for the substrap and the sub mount. You can order the substrap from Schroth, but to properly mount it on the subbar, you need to remove the snap on ends (what I marked in red) and wrap the belt around the yellow lines (which replicates the subbar itself). This is in first pic.

On the subbar, the "handle" looking thing is not reinforced enough to take the force, so wrap the substrap ends around the bar itself. The outboard side should sit outside the handle, the inboard side should sit inside the handle, per second pic. That will provide proper spread to wrap around the legs and function like a proper 6 point.

And please wear a HANS.



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[freshprince2421]

Thanks guys. I hate forcing things, but I was so frustrated that I ended up following Thoglan’s advise. It was still a pita but it worked.

If you do this, I would suggest you start forcing the bolt and stop when you have enough to engage the threads with the mount on. Otherwise the bolt will stick out and the mount cant pivot onto it, hopefully that is clear.

I am starting to doubt my purchase and maybe I should have stuck with my Recaro mounts …

I had to file down 2 of my bolts as well. Seems like they are only including 2 slimmer bolts when you need 4.

After trial and error I got the r-222 lined up with the chassis holes (just barely with a lot of force). Passenger side wasn't even close. Have yet to adjust things and try again. Pain in the butt.

[R1pilot]

Thanks guys. I hate forcing things, but I was so frustrated that I ended up following Thoglan’s advise. It was still a pita but it worked.

If you do this, I would suggest you start forcing the bolt and stop when you have enough to engage the threads with the mount on. Otherwise the bolt will stick out and the mount cant pivot onto it, hopefully that is clear.

I am starting to doubt my purchase and maybe I should have stuck with my Recaro mounts …

[Thoglan]

R1pilot From memory when I did mine I threaded on the nut and tightened it through. That way it 'self tolerances' with the stud. Initially I did the above with a file and took down the flange on the bolt but that was taking forever.

[repoman89]

^ classic BK safety critical parts not really fitting right.

Use a Dremel with a grinder attachment to grind off the bolt flange on one side. I had to do the same.

[R1pilot]

Having a difficult time installing the front bolt on the mounts. I can install only one of them as the stock mounting stud interferes with the bolt and will not let it pass through.

I see on the original post that Obioban has the bolts going from the top down, but the instructions says otherwise. Maybe they were updated at some point.

Did you guys press that stud out or how was that dealt with.

Just in case it matters I am using manual X3 rails.

[ZiMMie]

ABE ver. seats that can be installed/approved by TUV in a street car whiles the FIA ver. will need special approval for it to be used on the street. Also FIA seats have an expiration date.

If you are using the car for some sort of FIA event then you will need the fia certified seat.

[t44tq]

FIA Pole Positions are the narrower ones; ABE are a different seat and do not have FIA certification.

[elbert]

I noticed when trying out the R9222 (365mm-429mm) with the PP ABE seats, the mounts would bulge out a bit so I am using the R9220 (430mm-460mm) and it seems to fit much better with some spacers.

Same with me. With the R9222, I couldn't get the rail mounting holes to line up with the car without putting a lot of tension on the rails. With the R9220, bolts go right in without a fight.

What exactly changes on the ABE ones that will not allow the bracket to be interchangeable with the regular PP? I checked online and the bracket hole location seem to be the same between them.

ABE version is wider. I think you might have the regular width PP, but double check.