Review: Cobra Nogaro seats (uniquely street friendly fixed back bucket seat)

[elbert]

I have the correct mounts. R9222 and R9223.

R2222 is not correct. It is for the FIA Pole Positions, not the ABE version
What you need is the R9220. With the R9220, the holes will line up when shimmed correctly.
I'm speaking from experience, having used both (and why I have a set of the R9222 for sale).

[mrgizmo04]

For Nogaros? Why not 9224?

No, in post 342 he is talking about PP ABE with BK mounts.

Everyone is having problems with BK overpriced chunks o'metal .

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[Obioban]

I have the correct mounts. R9222 and R9223. Adding shims between the seat and the bracket would only make the problem worse since that would push the sliders even further apart. The dimensions of the brackets are just not quite right. I was going to have a look and see if I could slot the bolt hole out a bit more on the mill so that the bracket can sit further outboard on the slider but that's only possible on one side since the other side mounts to the stud on the slider.

I bought these brackets when they were like $150 each and at that price they do not feel worth it and now they are almost $250 each, I would definitely not be paying that for them.

For Nogaros? Why not 9224?

[timmo]

To get the rear inboard hole (outboard has a similar problem but especially inboard) to line up to get the bolt in - I have to crowbar the slider away from the tranny tunnel while bolting it up, and even then I feel the bolt struggling.

FWIW, exact same problem and I'm always worried about crossthreading that hole because of it. These are on the mounts for a regular bucket seat to powered sliders.

I bought these brackets when they were like $150 each and at that price they do not feel worth it and now they are almost $250 each, I would definitely not be paying that for them.

Wow I just checked, some crazy price increases over the past couple years. Luckily I picked mine up used for cheap from the Speed Academy E46 drift car haha

[Thoglan]

You either need to adjust the shims or you might have the wrong mounts. Which adapters do you have?

I have the correct mounts. R9222 and R9223. Adding shims between the seat and the bracket would only make the problem worse since that would push the sliders even further apart. The dimensions of the brackets are just not quite right. I was going to have a look and see if I could slot the bolt hole out a bit more on the mill so that the bracket can sit further outboard on the slider but that's only possible on one side since the other side mounts to the stud on the slider.

I bought these brackets when they were like $150 each and at that price they do not feel worth it and now they are almost $250 each, I would definitely not be paying that for them.

[elbert]

I had the same problems with my pole position ABE brey krause mounts. So much tension on the slider that it makes sliding them back and forward difficult even, and I'm pretty sure they are causing the mystery squeak I've been chasing for months. I really don't rate them highly at all, they are kind of shit.

You either need to adjust the shims or you might have the wrong mounts. Which adapters do you have?

[Thoglan]

I had the same problems with my pole position ABE brey krause mounts. So much tension on the slider that it makes sliding them back and forward difficult even, and I'm pretty sure they are causing the mystery squeak I've been chasing for months. I really don't rate them highly at all, they are kind of shit.

I'm very close to just ordering these https://www.speedengineering.de/prod...r-komplettset/ and seeing if the quality is better.

[mrgizmo04]

Yeah I tried loosening and wiggling. That's why I mentioned tolerances. Could be substrap bar holes are too close together, or the length of the handle bar too long, or both, effectively forcing the front end of the sliders together while pushing the rear end of the sliders too far apart (by a few hairs).

With the two solutions I mentioned (seat goes forward far enough, or via middle without the elbow rest), I'm willing to leave it alone. Especially since seat moves far enough forward I don't need any other solutions.

Taking apart that entite assembly is a pita with zip ties, handle springs, etc. If the seat wasn't able to move forward enough to get the tires in, I'd be looking for other modifications. Doing the switcheroo with 3rd and 4th tires will become a habit, so doesn't seem like a big deal.

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[heinzboehmer]

Yeah I had issues aligning the sliders as well. Will try what Obioban suggested, but I'm pretty sure the issue are the holes in the substrap bar not being drilled correctly (not wide enough).

[repoman89]

I wanted to install the passenger seat on manual slider (my driver is on power) to see if my experience would be a conducive to that idea...

I have 2 problems.
1) Due to tolerances of parts (and maybe mainly driven by the substrap bar) the slider rails don't sit "parallel" enough to make it an easy job. The front mount holes go onto the studs, which is easy, but the rears are holes/bolts situation (I don't see converting rears to studs will really solve the problem with alignment). To get the rear inboard hole (outboard has a similar problem but especially inboard) to line up to get the bolt in - I have to crowbar the slider away from the tranny tunnel while bolting it up, and even then I feel the bolt struggling. I tried loosening the 4 mount/substrap bar bolts to allow it to realign itself, but that didn't help. And I'd rather not dremel out/expand holes for something that needs to be pretty fixed/stationary. If I ever feel like it, I might take it all apart and grind down the length of the bk release mechanism bar, because I feel that might be causing the issue with allowing only 2 of the holes of the slider to line up easily, but not sure.
2) BK mounts/hardware is $#ittier than expected, I had to do some grinding, but even then, fitting the metal bracket with the yellow connector was a pain, and I had to ziptie a few things. So I'd rather not have to remove every time.

I agree I don't like the idea of constantly rubbing against the seat/interior when moving tires, but I'll figure out some sort of cover, plus I use tire totes.

I know others with bk or other seat/mount/slider combinations have issues getting bolt holes to line up. Did you find the magic tweaks required to make it seamless?

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I have these problems too. To me, removing and reinstalling the seat is not a solution. It’s a huge PITA getting the sliders to realign.

I just drive to the track on my 200tw tires.

[Obioban]

I wanted to install the passenger seat on manual slider (my driver is on power) to see if my experience would be a conducive to that idea...

I have 2 problems.
1) Due to tolerances of parts (and maybe mainly driven by the substrap bar) the slider rails don't sit "parallel" enough to make it an easy job. The front mount holes go onto the studs, which is easy, but the rears are holes/bolts situation (I don't see converting rears to studs will really solve the problem with alignment). To get the rear inboard hole (outboard has a similar problem but especially inboard) to line up to get the bolt in - I have to crowbar the slider away from the tranny tunnel while bolting it up, and even then I feel the bolt struggling. I tried loosening the 4 mount/substrap bar bolts to allow it to realign itself, but that didn't help. And I'd rather not dremel out/expand holes for something that needs to be pretty fixed/stationary. If I ever feel like it, I might take it all apart and grind down the length of the bk release mechanism bar, because I feel that might be causing the issue with allowing only 2 of the holes of the slider to line up easily, but not sure.
2) BK mounts/hardware is $#ittier than expected, I had to do some grinding, but even then, fitting the metal bracket with the yellow connector was a pain, and I had to ziptie a few things. So I'd rather not have to remove every time.

I agree I don't like the idea of constantly rubbing against the seat/interior when moving tires, but I'll figure out some sort of cover, plus I use tire totes.

I know others with bk or other seat/mount/slider combinations have issues getting bolt holes to line up. Did you find the magic tweaks required to make it seamless?

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Make all the nuts/bolts loose (other than seat to seat mount).

Sit in the seat and slide it back and forth, say, 10 times.

Tighten all the nuts/bolts (without removing seat from the car).

In my experience, that gets everything lined up nicely.

[mrgizmo04]

Or just spent 2 minutes removing a seat, stick the tires in super easily with no danger of damage to the interior, and then spend 2 min putting the seat back in. That’s what I’ve transitioned to.

I wanted to install the passenger seat on manual slider (my driver is on power) to see if my experience would be a conducive to that idea...

I have 2 problems.
1) Due to tolerances of parts (and maybe mainly driven by the substrap bar) the slider rails don't sit "parallel" enough to make it an easy job. The front mount holes go onto the studs, which is easy, but the rears are holes/bolts situation (I don't see converting rears to studs will really solve the problem with alignment). To get the rear inboard hole (outboard has a similar problem but especially inboard) to line up to get the bolt in - I have to crowbar the slider away from the tranny tunnel while bolting it up, and even then I feel the bolt struggling. I tried loosening the 4 mount/substrap bar bolts to allow it to realign itself, but that didn't help. And I'd rather not dremel out/expand holes for something that needs to be pretty fixed/stationary. If I ever feel like it, I might take it all apart and grind down the length of the bk release mechanism bar, because I feel that might be causing the issue with allowing only 2 of the holes of the slider to line up easily, but not sure.
2) BK mounts/hardware is $#ittier than expected, I had to do some grinding, but even then, fitting the metal bracket with the yellow connector was a pain, and I had to ziptie a few things. So I'd rather not have to remove every time.

I agree I don't like the idea of constantly rubbing against the seat/interior when moving tires, but I'll figure out some sort of cover, plus I use tire totes.

I know others with bk or other seat/mount/slider combinations have issues getting bolt holes to line up. Did you find the magic tweaks required to make it seamless?

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[Obioban]

Or just spent 2 minutes removing a seat, stick the tires in super easily with no danger of damage to the interior, and then spend 2 min putting the seat back in. That’s what I’ve transitioned to.

[mrgizmo04]

For those trying to fit track wheels into the back seats with Nogaros...

On manual slider with the seat in least reclined position (rear of seat on top hole, front of seat on bottom hole on BK mount).
Jam the seat all the way forward as far as it will go and you can get a wheel in, per first pic. My track wheels are arc8 18x9.5.

You will come to a problem fitting the 4th wheel in, because you can't make that sharp on an angle between the seat, the bpillar and the third wheel, per 2nd pic.

What I did in that case was I moved the third wheel perpendicular to the first two (per 3rd pic), that gave me room to move the 4th wheel straight in toward the 3rd spot, so you basically have to do a switcheroo between 3rd and 4th wheels.

The other trick I tested is that, if you do the center console armrest delete, you can maneuver wheels in between the seats, per 4th pic. With the armrest in place there is not enough room before you hit the headliner.

Of course if you don't have shock tower brace in trunk you could also insert tires that way, or even transport one in the trunk, or even in the front seat. Many options.

Happy tracking!


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[elbert]

Since this thread is turning into "all things about aftermarket seats"

Someone posted this Fakebook ad, selling a complete pair of manual E46 sedan seats for only $200:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/860722727354100/permalink/5790705831022407/?sale_post_id=5790705831022407