Review: Cobra Nogaro seats (uniquely street friendly fixed back bucket seat)

[Cubieman]

It's a few mm, but it's enough to require a crowbar to hold it in a position that brings the rail away from tranny tunnel to fit the bolt in. Just holding crowbar while starting the bolt is not enough, there is enough tension in the entire assembly that I can feel the threads scrubbing if I screw it in without holding the rail with a crowbar the entire time. Definitely not in a state where I am comfortable taking the seat out several times a month...I guess bolts are replaceable, at least I haven't converted rears to studs yet (and prob won't with this fitment).

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Yeah, I hear that, I worry about the bolts going in sideways and damaging the female threads which would be a shitty state of affairs.

Finally got some seat heat action that works pretty well, a factory E39 M5 mat provides heat to the bottom and lower back. The great thing is the connector on the M5 seat heat will fit a stock E46 harness with one little tab shaved off.

Added a third pin to what was a 2 pin connector and stuffed the seat heats into the cushion, no upholstery work required for this which is awesome.

[mrgizmo04]

How far were your rear seat rails holes off? On mine if one side is lined up the other is off the entire width of the hole in the floor.

It's a few mm, but it's enough to require a crowbar to hold it in a position that brings the rail away from tranny tunnel to fit the bolt in. Just holding crowbar while starting the bolt is not enough, there is enough tension in the entire assembly that I can feel the threads scrubbing if I screw it in without holding the rail with a crowbar the entire time. Definitely not in a state where I am comfortable taking the seat out several times a month...I guess bolts are replaceable, at least I haven't converted rears to studs yet (and prob won't with this fitment).

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[Cubieman]

That's insane how far yours is off. Adding another data point, mine are just like Heinz - use fingers to pry and then start the bolt. If I have to take the seat out I'll try to "relax" the joints by sliding the seat forward/back with things loose as mentioned and see if that gets it to line up fully

I ended up sloting the holes as far as I could without interfering with the hardware and the rails still taper but only about half as much now, so I suppose that'll have to do.

[timmo]

I have the spacers on outside which makes the fitment closer, but still terrible. Not only is my inboard bracket sticking up at an ~15° but it doesn't sit parallel to the rail causing the rails to taper toward the front. Not happy at all with this stuff especially for the price.
I will say the GT3 install went fine, but this is something else entirely.

That's insane how far yours is off. Adding another data point, mine are just like Heinz - use fingers to pry and then start the bolt. If I have to take the seat out I'll try to "relax" the joints by sliding the seat forward/back with things loose as mentioned and see if that gets it to line up fully

[Cubieman]

Which side of the bracket did you place the black spacer washers (the ones that go on the stud with the 10mm nut) on? My seat rails were pretty far off from the bolt holes, then I swapped the washers over to the other side and now they're only slightly far off. Still had to pry a bit to get the bolts in, but I was able to just use my fingers for that.

Also, like repoman89, I had to install the rails with everything loose and then tighten all bolts/nuts without removing the rails from the car.

I have the spacers on outside which makes the fitment closer, but still terrible. Not only is my inboard bracket sticking up at an ~15° but it doesn't sit parallel to the rail causing the rails to taper toward the front. Not happy at all with this stuff especially for the price.
I will say the GT3 install went fine, but this is something else entirely.

[heinzboehmer]

How far were your rear seat rails holes off? On mine if one side is lined up the other is off the entire width of the hole in the floor.

My theory is that the inboard bracket (at least mine) sit up at an angle, once installed to seat this pushes the rails out at an angle causing the fitment issue, interesting the front is fine and the back isn't.

I'm about to take those fucking brackets, vise them up and bend them so they don't kick out so much.

Sure wish I had metal fab equipment/skills right about now.

Which side of the bracket did you place the black spacer washers (the ones that go on the stud with the 10mm nut) on? My seat rails were pretty far off from the bolt holes, then I swapped the washers over to the other side and now they're only slightly far off. Still had to pry a bit to get the bolts in, but I was able to just use my fingers for that.

Also, like repoman89, I had to install the rails with everything loose and then tighten all bolts/nuts without removing the rails from the car.

[repoman89]

My technique for reinstalling the seats is to loosen the outside two bracket to seat bolts enough so that the rails can line up easily. Then torque them to the floor and retighten the seat bolts after.

I’ve had my brackets for a few years now so it’s not a recent thing, quality has been shit for a while. Every BK part I’ve bought (three now) has either required a grinder or a machinist. Wish there was any competition at all.

[Cubieman]

My driver side is on power slider and I had to also crowbar it to get the rear bolts into the floor...

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How far were your rear seat rails holes off? On mine if one side is lined up the other is off the entire width of the hole in the floor.

My theory is that the inboard bracket (at least mine) sit up at an angle, once installed to seat this pushes the rails out at an angle causing the fitment issue, interesting the front is fine and the back isn't.

I'm about to take those fucking brackets, vise them up and bend them so they don't kick out so much.

Sure wish I had metal fab equipment/skills right about now.

[mrgizmo04]

I ordered some E30 switchs, going to try the power sliders to see if fitment is any better..what a bummer.

My driver side is on power slider and I had to also crowbar it to get the rear bolts into the floor...

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[Cubieman]

I am also having some pretty bad fitment issues on manual sliders, I had to cut away part of the slider to even get the bracket on the inboard rail.

Once installed I can get the front studs through the slider holes but the rears are way off, the distance between the mounting points on the rear is 1/2" wider than the fronts, same issue as mrgizmo04is having.

I can persuade the bolts into place but it's seems like way to much force/tension to have just built up on the seats all the time, don't want to crack them etc.

I ordered some E30 switchs, going to try the power sliders to see if fitment is any better..what a bummer.

[Casa de Mesa]

Where was your interference at with the power sliders?

Yea, it still would interfere, the bracket at an angle is the inboard side so it doesn't require the spacer according to the instructions.

Half tempted to try and see how they fit on my factory power sliders, but I went to a lot of work to get/clean/paint these manual sliders, I just hope they can send me something that works.

Don't want to have to modify the bracket or the rails either, shouldn't have to, feels like I bought a chinese ebay kit which is an unfortunate thing to say about BK stuff.

Pics below, not great but it interferes with the crossover bracket that holds the "driveshaft" for the gears on the non motor side seat rail.

The spacer is in the 2nd pic. Spacer is at the front of the seat rails (closer to the front of the car).

[Cubieman]

If you put a 1/4" spacer there, even just to mock it up, would the BK mount interfere with that spring detent box? I'm using power sliders but they interfered with the outboard seat rails without that spacer. Or was it inboard? Regardless, there was interference without the spacer.

Where was your interference at with the power sliders?

Yea, it still would interfere, the bracket at an angle is the inboard side so it doesn't require the spacer according to the instructions.

Half tempted to try and see how they fit on my factory power sliders, but I went to a lot of work to get/clean/paint these manual sliders, I just hope they can send me something that works.

Don't want to have to modify the bracket or the rails either, shouldn't have to, feels like I bought a chinese ebay kit which is an unfortunate thing to say about BK stuff.

[Casa de Mesa]

Thanks, may do washers to mock it up, inboard the brackets being at an angle really isn't great, shouldn't have to grind material from the rails and/or brackets to make that work.

Calling BK today in regards to all of this.

If you put a 1/4" spacer there, even just to mock it up, would the BK mount interfere with that spring detent box? I'm using power sliders but they interfered with the outboard seat rails without that spacer. Or was it inboard? Regardless, there was interference without the spacer.

[Cubieman]

I have these with my kit. I'll try to get over to the car and measure them this week. I want to say they are about 1/4" thick, maybe 3/8". Probably closer to 0.25".

You could get some spacers from a hardware store and roll with them temporarily. It's literally just a painted/powder coated chunk of flat steel - they aren't tapered or otherwise special in any way.

Thanks, may do washers to mock it up, inboard the brackets being at an angle really isn't great, shouldn't have to grind material from the rails and/or brackets to make that work.

Calling BK today in regards to all of this.

[Casa de Mesa]

Does anybody happen to have a spare set of the black spacers for the outboard rail that goes between the rail/bracket?

My kit didn't come with them, have emailed and will call ECS about this as I can't proceed without them.

I have these with my kit. I'll try to get over to the car and measure them this week. I want to say they are about 1/4" thick, maybe 3/8". Probably closer to 0.25".

You could get some spacers from a hardware store and roll with them temporarily. It's literally just a painted/powder coated chunk of flat steel - they aren't tapered or otherwise special in any way.