So I’ve recently been blessed by a visit from the check engine fairy, after some research I narrowed it down to a small part under the intake manifold... I figured before I go all in I should check in here if someone has encountered this before.
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Check Engine Light: Tank Ventilating Valve — Activation
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In the 3 years I've spent heavily lurking on m3 forums I've never seen/heard this failure mentioned/discussed. Seems quite rare.
Maybe clean any electrical connectors with QD contact cleaner and see if that clears it up? If a new one's really expensive maybe source a cheap used one from a part-out because, again, it seems like these rarely fail.
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Originally posted by ATB88 View PostIn the 3 years I've spent heavily lurking on m3 forums I've never seen/heard this failure mentioned/discussed. Seems quite rare.
Maybe clean any electrical connectors with QD contact cleaner and see if that clears it up? If a new one's really expensive maybe source a cheap used one from a part-out because, again, it seems like these rarely fail.
removing an airbox doesn’t seem exciting in the slightest, but it appears to be the route I am headed.Just some old shitty cars.
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Originally posted by Icecream View PostHow did you narrow it down? I jad a similar obscure code like that that had never really come up. It was the gas cap. Had a small dent in it. Fixed and never came back.Last edited by 02_lsb; 07-19-2020, 06:29 PM.Just some old shitty cars.
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These fail quite often on non M cars. Make sure the connection is good, check the vaccuum lines, and then replace the solenoid. It's not expensive. You just tank the intake off, not the plenum, and it's next to the dipstick. There are worst things that could go wrong. Definitely fix this soon but it's not bad to fix.
Also check your gas cap gasket.This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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Are you noticing power loss issues? If not I don't think it's the tank vent solenoid/valve. Supposedly you can hear it tick when you turn the key if its good?
Definitely try getting a new gas cap first.
If you clear the code does it come back immediately? If so that sounds more like a wiring/connection issue.
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Thanks guys. I’ll get a new gas cap, and, if that doesn’t work I’ll buy the new valve. The code comes back after a few miles, not immediately. There’s no power loss, I recently replaced the fuel pump (OE) and fuel filter, so I guess this will be my fuel / evap refresh.Last edited by 02_lsb; 07-20-2020, 04:47 AM.Just some old shitty cars.
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I replaced this valve preventatively on my M5 .. plenty of people seem to have issues with it on that car. There was nothing wrong with it but I did it during my intake system refresh because it's a massive PITA to get to. Looks much easier on the E46, as everything is. AFAIK there's really no symptoms if it goes wrong, just a code.
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Did a new gas cap fix it?
I got an SES light and scanned with INPA and see error code 36 - Tank Vent Valve. The SES light comes and goes, it seems. I've noticed no loss of performance.
Do I need to replace the valve?
Silly question: is there any chance that fuel stabilizer can cause some issues with the valve and fresh fuel would restore functionality?2006 BMW M3 ZCP
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Originally posted by 02_lsb View PostI did nothing. I turned it off and haven’t seen it since.
bad gas? No pun intended.2006 BMW M3 ZCP
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for the tank venting error code..
it should be related to P0444 error code..
or the 036 code read from INPA.
besides the annoying CEL on the dash, you probably won't feel anything related to driving experience..
maybe slight drop on the gas mileage?
if it's P0444, replace the purge senor under the Manifold will fix your issue
if you still have CEL, then, check the connector to the purge valve ..
i have been driving with CEL for 3+ years ..
replaced the valve didn't cure my issue, then i found out it's the connector .. the pins are not "connecting" well ..
hope it helps..
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