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Shorter springs for Ohlins Road And Track Coilovers

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    #16
    Originally posted by Tones View Post
    Why did you get ohlins of you only care about stance? The ohlins already go pretty low. You should off gone bc

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    I dont only care about stance. The setup I have now doesnt rub at all even with full compression.


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      #17
      Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
      Ohlins yellow fronts are 8". They are about 4" diameter and are meant to sit with stock top mounts.

      Most coilovers and track guys swap out for narrower (60-65mm, ~2.5") Swift or Hyperco springs to stuff wider tires and minimize rubbing on strut body/perches. This also requires a change in diameter of the mounts/perches to accept a smaller diameter spring.

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      Do i have to find springs with the odd like honeycomb shape or can they just be normal circular ones?


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        #18
        Originally posted by Yeetus View Post

        Do i have to find springs with the odd like honeycomb shape or can they just be normal circular ones?


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        Watch the videos I linked above. There is no explanation of honeycomb there, but if you are going to be running super short springs that are relatively soft you will have virtually no bump travel in the shock and will bottom out on pretty much every pothole you hit.

        That said, if I were going with short soft springs I might look at beehive so I don't get coilbind on every bump.

        If you don't go with beehive, but something standard, and assuming you are on stock top mounts, you will need to make sure you get new (aftermarket) mounts that match the inner diameter of the new spring, as well as the bottom collars (although i am not sure what size bottom collars Ohlins come with).

        Hopefully you won't be driving hard street or canyons, because the proposed setup at low ride height with Ohlins will be super super suboptimal and sometimes scary to control, not even getting into roll center, control arm angles and suspension working against itself.

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        Last edited by mrgizmo04; 07-31-2020, 04:57 PM.
        Youtube DIYs and more

        All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

        PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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          #19
          Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
          I don't think those spacers help with travel, that is limited by the short front Ohlins piston and further limits stack height by using an after market top or camber plate which attaches super high (vs a stock mount). The spacer allows you to regain ride height without preloading the life out of a softer spring since ride height and preload are a single adjustment.

          So putting in a spacer which gains ride height negates what he is trying to do which is get to lower ride height?

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          I stand corrected, appreciate the clarification!
          Big Booty Betty - '02 E46 M3 Coupe

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            #20
            Originally posted by Yeetus View Post

            I dont only care about stance. The setup I have now doesnt rub at all even with full compression.


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            Your going for a stance look. Anything Below 13.5 front and 13 rear messes up the suspension geometry. You will also have no shock travel basically throwing away all the money you spent on one of the most expensive street coilovers out there. They're going to ride like ass and handle like it also


            That's why I said you are looking for stance over performance.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Tones View Post
              Your going for a stance look. Anything Below 13.5 front and 13 rear messes up the suspension geometry. You will also have no shock travel basically throwing away all the money you spent on one of the most expensive street coilovers out there. They're going to ride like ass and handle like it also


              That's why I said you are looking for stance over performance.

              Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
              I set my Ohlins to the manuals settings and swapped the top mounts from side to side and my car measured 13" in the rear and just under 13" up front!

              OP, if you really want to go lower, I'd suggest the little spacers 3DMotorsport makes, a set of camber plates and standard barrel springs. The shorter stack height of the camber plates will lower the front significantly.

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                #22
                Originally posted by Tones View Post
                Your going for a stance look. Anything Below 13.5 front and 13 rear messes up the suspension geometry. You will also have no shock travel basically throwing away all the money you spent on one of the most expensive street coilovers out there. They're going to ride like ass and handle like it also


                That's why I said you are looking for stance over performance.

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                This is the general rule of thumb.

                At some point going low will have more of a negative effect for the sake of “looks”.


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                2018 Grigio Telesto F80 M3 DCT | :: Bone Stock ::
                2004 Titanium Silver E46 M3 6 Speed | :: Track Car ::

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by S14 View Post

                  I set my Ohlins to the manuals settings and swapped the top mounts from side to side and my car measured 13" in the rear and just under 13" up front!

                  OP, if you really want to go lower, I'd suggest the little spacers 3DMotorsport makes, a set of camber plates and standard barrel springs. The shorter stack height of the camber plates will lower the front significantly.
                  Originally posted by S14 View Post

                  OP, if you really want to go lower, I'd suggest the little spacers 3DMotorsport makes, a set of camber plates and standard barrel springs. The shorter stack height of the camber plates will lower the front significantly.
                  How does adding the spacer allow him to go lower? Did you read posts #9 and onward?

                  Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                  Youtube DIYs and more

                  All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                  PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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                    #24
                    Thanks for the replies guys. Might mess around with spacers in the front before I go any lower.

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                      #25
                      I guess I forgot to mention that if you keep your current spring that doesn't allow you to drop is as low as you want, you can add that spacer and it will get you to the lower height that you are looking for.

                      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                      Youtube DIYs and more

                      All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                      PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
                        Correct. Spacers limit travel. If a damper is known for a short stroke like Ohlins or Billys, the mods you'd want to do (for travel, in order to be lowlow) would be to REMOVE material (from the stack), not add it.
                        Except it will also increase the likelihood of the damper topping out, and given how little droop travel the Ohlins already have the spring will become unseated under decompression, cause noise, etc.

                        Originally posted by Yeetus View Post

                        I dont only care about stance. The setup I have now doesnt rub at all even with full compression.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                        Tuning until it rubs is not how you set up a suspension... are you purposely trying to fuck it up?

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by jvit27 View Post

                          Except it will also increase the likelihood of the damper topping out, and given how little droop travel the Ohlins already have the spring will become unseated under decompression, cause noise, etc.



                          Tuning until it rubs is not how you set up a suspension... are you purposely trying to fuck it up?
                          Yes I’m purposely trying to fuck it up.


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                            #28
                            Originally posted by jvit27 View Post

                            Except it will also increase the likelihood of the damper topping out, and given how little droop travel the Ohlins already have the spring will become unseated under decompression, cause noise, etc.
                            Shortening the stack (less droop) creates LESS of a chance of the spring coming unloaded.

                            DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                            /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

                              Shortening the stack (less droop) creates LESS of a chance of the spring coming unloaded.
                              Sorry, you're right. Meant when using shorter spring

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                                #30
                                Gents,
                                Spacers from 3dm only change the attachment point at the bottom of the strut where the strut attaches to the knuckle via the pinch bolt. They do not change anything about the distance or suspension travel from the bottom spring perch to the top mount/camber plate. They don't change the attachment point of the strut shaft to the mount/camber plate.

                                So if these spacers let's say were a foot high (in reality they add only 3/4 inch), all that would change if you put them on the car would be that the ride height would he a foot higher. Again, they dont net you any travel, that is limited by the Ohlins piston shaft stroke itself.

                                What the spacer allows you to do is gain some ride height while unloading the spring preload. What that effectively allows you to do is "tune/adjust" how much of the piston stoke is going to be allocated to droop travel vs bump travel. Imagine a SUPER stiff spring so when the car is on the ground suspension does not compress at all and sits at full droop. You have 0 droop travel left, but all suspension travel is available for bump travel. If, on the other hand, you use a super soft spring, when you lower the car to the ground, you will compress the piston shaft and the spring and will basically be riding on bump stops because you won't have any suspension travel available for bump, but you will have plenty of droop.

                                Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                                Youtube DIYs and more

                                All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                                PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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