What mods would you do on a $10k budget?

[MTiz]

Starting to build a list of mods that I would like to do once I eventually get my M3. There's a ton of stuff, but what would you guys do here if you wanted to keep the mod budget to $10k or less for a streetcar that will likely never see a racetrack?

Furthermore, say I wanted to cut that $10k in half and use $5k for maintenance, what mods would you guys do on a $5k budget?

Hoping to start an interesting discussion 😀

[Bostonbruck]

100% without a doubt I would make sure that the cooling system, Vanos, subframe, and rod bearings have been taken care of, along with new tires, suspension bushings, fluids, and filters. That will run you about $4-10k depending if you do it yourself or not. If maintenance is up to date, continue on with the mods.

Think what is most important to you? Do you want it to handle incredibly flat around a corner? Do you want it to sound better? Do you want it to look cooler?

If you want quality mods, the prices can add up very quickly. If you want sound, get an after market muffler and headers, preferably, supersptint. A CSL intake wound also be a good option, but it’s pricey and requires a tune. Those 3 things alone you’re looking at $6-7k+ in parts alone.

If you want it to handle better, you could do suspension mods, like coilovers, Rtabs, camber arms, etc.

A CSL trunk would improve the look of the rear end.
You could get some new wheels. Bbs, Volk, apex, etc
Some people love changing the shift knob to the F10 M5 knob or a chasis mounted shifter.

It all depends on what you like and what you want to change about the car.

If i were you, I would get a CSL trunk, muffler of your choice, Powerflex rtabs, and possibly Koni yellow/Dinan suspension.
Do a few mods and see how you like them. You can always add more. Before you pick out some mods, do a little research about them, it can tell you a lot. Saving some of the money would not be a bad idea, as you may have some unexpected problems come up in the future.

[lapoune]

Depends what you like, but I would say CSL airbox. One of the most unique parts of the experience of owning these cars.

[COVID-19]

Cams, CSL airbox and tune. Or wait and find a used SC.

[sina]

Cams, CSL airbox and tune. Or wait and find a used SC.

Just curious, how much is there to gain with these mods if you're still on US headers? It feels like everyone that has an airbox did headers first. For me the first big mod would 100% be CSL airbox, couldn't care less if there are no gains, just need that sound 🤤. And then maybe later headers to actually take advantage of the airbox.

[COVID-19]

Just curious, how much is there to gain with these mods if you're still on US headers? It feels like everyone that has an airbox did headers first. For me the first big mod would 100% be CSL airbox, couldn't care less if there are no gains, just need that sound 🤤. And then maybe later headers to actually take advantage of the airbox.

I mean you can skip the cams and do full exhaust, CSL intake and tune then the rest on maintenance and whatever is left on on exterior or interior bits. I like my m3 NA.

[mainstreamer00]

Just curious, how much is there to gain with these mods if you're still on US headers? It feels like everyone that has an airbox did headers first. For me the first big mod would 100% be CSL airbox, couldn't care less if there are no gains, just need that sound 🤤. And then maybe later headers to actually take advantage of the airbox.

100% you need to ditch the US-spec headers.
Get yourself a set of euro headers and some kind of resonated section 1 - tangible difference. An airbox would not be worth it without at least this mod IMO, even from a tuning perspective alone.

An interesting "cheap" mod I did that totally transformed the car was a quicker steering rack. I did the .712 yellow tag, but nearly anything is better than stock.

Is this for discussion only, or are you looking for some gameplan opinions?

[MTiz]

100% without a doubt I would make sure that the cooling system, Vanos, subframe, and rod bearings have been taken care of, along with new tires, suspension bushings, fluids, and filters. That will run you about $4-10k depending if you do it yourself or not. If maintenance is up to date, continue on with the mods.

Do a few mods and see how you like them. You can always add more. Before you pick out some mods, do a little research about them, it can tell you a lot. Saving some of the money would not be a bad idea, as you may have some unexpected problems come up in the future.

I had spec'd out wheels, tires, suspension (without bushings), headers, and a muffler and I was already over $5k. It really got me thinking on what was important and what I could live without. At the end of the day I really just want a clean (and reliable) OEM+ build that sounds good and has good fitment is more than enough for me.

This also reinforces the fact that I definitely need to buy a vehicle with preventative maintenance already completed (and if any, quality mods) once I do enter the market for one of these vehicles.

[MTiz]

Is this for discussion only, or are you looking for some gameplan opinions?

Discussion at this point. Still a few months away from entering the market.

[mainstreamer00]

Discussion at this point. Still a few months away from entering the market.

Nice.
If you have the luxury of time, really hold out for:
a) a car without deferred maintenance. that's one way to really eat up your 10K.
b) a car with many/some of your preferred mods.

Lots out there if you're wiling to travel. Probably more over the coming months unfortunately. Keep us posted!

[cdnabroad]

Having just been faced with some of these decisions over the past few months, this is what I did, which is a combo of some of the above suggestions and a lot of reading on the old M3forum

A) Maintenance = Inspection II and a full Beisan VANOS upgrade. My thought process here was, all the mods in the world on a bad starting platform = a bad end product.

B) I chose the suspension and brakes to do as initial mods = All bushings, mounts upgraded [DINAN monoballs, Tower Brace, Koni/Eibach Combo] For the brakes I went to an entry CSL style BBK with new lines [this will still cost you 1K plus in parts] The final thought process here was that the car is pretty fast as it is and is only going to go so much faster without a turbo and having a lot more control over that speed seemed like a good place to start.

I'm really happy with the end result and will try and do a longer write up as to some of the options considered and decisions made during the month long process. The care drives better than new and while the maintenance and mods I chose were not cheap [Parts were around 4K alone] the piece of mine of knowing the car is going to be good for the next 50K was worth it.

[oceansize]

Here is the type of car you should be looking for. 106k with VANOS done, new OEM clutch flywheel, RACP reinforced with redish plates, and lots of maintenance. Bearings done at 20k as part of recall. Very well taken care of car that frees up cash for other stuff.

[Obioban]

If it hasn’t already been done, in this order:
vince bar (subframe)
beisan vanos downs and valve adjustment
replace all fluids with new OE fluids
entire cooling system
every bushings/bearing/ball joint in the suspension
bluebus
TCK S/As
Light weight 18” wheels with good tires (Michelin non all seasons)
replace any interior components that are looking worn/tired

power is the least meaningful upgrade, imo. No matter how much you have, it feels “normal” after a couple weeks. If you DDed a Bugatti, I’m pretty sure it would feel slow after a couple months.

[Tigerbimmer]

power is the least meaningful upgrade, imo. No matter how much you have, it feels “normal” after a couple weeks. If you DDed a Bugatti, I’m pretty sure it would feel slow after a couple months.

Ugh... I have to agree. Was looking at power mods next but now my focus is quality streetable buckets to replace the stock seats. Sliding all over the stockers since suspension overhaul and takes away from the experience.

[Obioban]

Ugh... I have to agree. Was looking at power mods next but now my focus is quality streetable buckets to replace the stock seats. Sliding all over the stockers since suspension overhaul and takes away from the experience.

Streetable buckets, you say? I only know of one sold in the USA:

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/415-review-cobra-nogaro-seats-uniquely-street-friendly-fixed-back-bucket-seat