What mods would you do on a $10k budget?

[MTiz]

Streetable buckets, you say? I only know of one sold in the USA:

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ck-bucket-seat

Those seats look good but I'm afraid I'll miss the lumbar support and squishy leather of the stock seats. Then again, you did say the Nogaro seats have adjustable lumbar support...🤔

[Obioban]

Those seats look good but I'm afraid I'll miss the lumbar support and squishy leather of the stock seats. Then again, you did say the Nogaro seats have adjustable lumbar support...🤔

Yep— I have adjustable lumbar and squishy leather :P

[cdnabroad]

Also , If you do the valve timing, spark plugs and ignition coils you will get some Hps back that you didn't know you had lost. I definitely noticed the difference when I got my car back.

[bassel_sy]

if maintenance is up to date id go

1.Coilovers
2.Brakes
3.Set of PS4's

[Tigerbimmer]

Streetable buckets, you say? I only know of one sold in the USA:

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ck-bucket-seat

Incredible review! Thanks for putting it together. I'm going to have to give HMS a call and see what sort of package they can come up with.

[JeST]

If it hasn’t already been done, in this order:
vince bar (subframe)
beisan vanos downs and valve adjustment
replace all fluids with new OE fluids
entire cooling system
every bushings/bearing/ball joint in the suspension
bluebus
TCK S/As
Light weight 18” wheels with good tires (Michelin non all seasons)
replace any interior components that are looking worn/tired

power is the least meaningful upgrade, imo. No matter how much you have, it feels “normal” after a couple weeks. If you DDed a Bugatti, I’m pretty sure it would feel slow after a couple months.

Agree

[Sharocks]

If we're guessing the car is all stock and bulletproofed with new fluids etc.

1. Brakes, stock brakes blow on this thing
2. Wheels and tires, tires being more important
3. If it's a 6MT, get an AS SSK, will change your life lol
4. The 3.91 LSD that's in the FS section, 3.91's are NLA and are amazing
5. Headers
6. A good tune, aka a dyno tune, aka not a emailed and shipped cable nonsense
7. Coilovers if it's in the budget
8. Proper alignment and setup

[chicane]

- CSL's or reps
- Adjustable Koni's with lowered springs
- Ebay headers/SuperSprint Exhaust
- ECU tune (ecuworx $20)
- CDV and SAP delete (free)
- ZHP Shift knob
- Camber plates
- CSL box
- Polyurethane bushings
- Brakes
- If there is anything left visuals

[cdnabroad]

Happy to have some dissenting opinions here, but as far as engine performance goes, the number 1 mod is still headers right? Especially in terms of bang for buck. Unfortunately I'm in CA and all the California headers threads are gone 🤣 like 500 hundred of them so I cannot direct the OP there for an extended extended discussion.

[Sharocks]

Happy to have some dissenting opinions here, but as far as engine performance goes, the number 1 mod is still headers right? Especially in terms of bang for buck. Unfortunately I'm in CA and all the California headers threads are gone 🤣 like 500 hundred of them so I cannot direct the OP there for an extended extended discussion.

Depends on budget really. You want the most out of them you're spending 2500 at least. Megans are 250 ish and will net you 90% of the gains of a SSV1 setup. So YMMV.

[Arith2]

Optional Mods:

1. Megan Racing headers (around $250)
They're AA replicas and fit perfect. There was a very very long thread (70+ pages) about how they are legitimate. Megan Racing will fix them if there is a fitment problem also. They aren't great on performance but they're at least as good as Euro headers for much less and are new. Supersprints are amazing but on a 10k budget, there are just other things that are more important than headers.

2. Buildjournal tune ($250-350)
This is to complement the headers, ditch the MIL, and SAI code you'll get because now you can yank it out if you want. For an extra $99, equaling the $350, they have CSL trans software. In my opinion, that's how the SMG should've came from the factory but I understand why it didn't. It's much harder on the hydraulic system. With this, I didn't hate my SMG anymore.

3. Koni and Bilstien sport suspension ($1700 I think)
From reviews and what I've read, this lowers car for a better look and handling is amazing. No personal experience but this is in my future for sure. Gotta do perches and all the stuff on top of the struts and shocks too. At least replace the bearings.

4. Four Continental Pro Contact Sport tires ($850-1000)
I love these tires for my car. They are superior in the rain and are fairly quite. I live in FL so that matters to me. The grip isn't as good as a Michelin tire and basically isn't as good in almost every way besides wet grip. They are just more comfortable and take much longer to wear out but still have more grip than most tires. I suggest these because it's just a daily.

5. Second Resonator in Sec 1 ($100)
Headers make our cars too raspy. This helps that.

6. Muffler ($500-2000)
Stock sound kinda blows on our cars and they're so quiet. Totally optional with no crazy performance gains. Could become worse if muffler is shaped wrong and causes drag. You'd never noticed this on a daily.

7. CSL intake + tune ($3500-5000)
While this is the least bang for your buck, it's also the pinnacle mod of owning an E46 M3. Cut some other mods out, but know whenever you add headers, you'll need to pay for a retune. Handling mods should take priority however this is the coolest mod by far.

Required:

1. Vanos rebuild ($300-1200)
Depending on what is wrong determines price. If your exhaust hub is broken, well that's at least $600. If not then it's $150 for the machined oil disk. It's a random failure point so this is a must. You seem competent enough not to neglect this since you're already preparing a list and budget. Of course there's all the viton orings and whatnot. Also don't forget to change the filter in the thing sticking out of the side of the valve body. It's a spool valve so I think it's the pressure regulator. Definitely good to service. You also need timing tools for the cam bolts. Could rent or buy. Jus get for $100 on ECS if buying.

2. Spark plugs ($60)
Get them from FCP Euro. You don't know if there was abuse or overheating that could've damaged them. They could also be Chinese knock offs. I bought a set of Bosch on Amazon and 4 are chinese crap. Still says Germany but they have a few things revealing they're fakes. Get NGKs anyways. This will avoid detonation, misfires, and the unknown. It's super cheap and you'll be there for your valve adjustment anyways.

3. Oil change ($75)
Once again, you don't know the driving conditions or how long that oil has actually been there. You also don't know 100% if it's good oil. This is also a chance to send an oil sample and avoid any surprise failures. FCP Euro is the best price long term but worst up front. $60 is what it's probably going to cost on something like ECSuning.

4. Valve Adjustment ($150-200)
Dealerships generally didn't actually adjust valves unless there was a ticking. If it says Inspection II on the Carfax, that doesn't mean it was performed. Some guy on flatrate could've thrown half the kit away and gotten paid the full time for it. It has happened. It's good to know it has ACTUALLY been done. VCG obviously has to be and I included it in the price. Know you may have to order individual shims from BMW. They're cheap but it can add up. Better than $500 for their kit for never using 80% of the shims on a bad day.

5. Transmission fluid ($40)
Could be original, burnt up, or wrong oil. Also could be wrong amount. None of this has to show symptoms.

6. Diff fluid ($50-150)
Same reason

7. Rear subframe Reinforcement + Bushings ($400-$1500)
I don't know if you have a welder but this can be costly. There are so many people that have cracked frames where the subframe meets it. Probably shouldn't neglect this but it's one thing I haven't done myself due to my engine exploding. Needless to say this a less imminent issue. Yeah things can crack but you'll be able to tell before your diff falls off.

Set some budget aside for repairs because crap happens or do the CSL Intake. Most of this I have done already. I don't have CSL money though.

[Obioban]

Optional Mods:

1. Megan Racing headers (around $250)
They're AA replicas and fit perfect. There was a very very long thread (70+ pages) about how they are legitimate. Megan Racing will fix them if there is a fitment problem also. They aren't great on performance but they're at least as good as Euro headers for much less and are new. Supersprints are amazing but on a 10k budget, there are just other things that are more important than headers.

I doubt the Megans make as much power as OE euro, and I know they don't fit as well or as well made. I'd get used OE euro at that price point every single time (and did, on the M3 wagon).

... but there's lots of things I'd do before any header, especially because I wouldn't want headers without a catted section 1, which significant ups the price.

[MTiz]

Optional Mods:

1. Megan Racing headers (around $250)
They're AA replicas and fit perfect. There was a very very long thread (70+ pages) about how they are legitimate. Megan Racing will fix them if there is a fitment problem also. They aren't great on performance but they're at least as good as Euro headers for much less and are new. Supersprints are amazing but on a 10k budget, there are just other things that are more important than headers.

Thanks for this list, it was basically what I was thinking I could do without breaking the bank. I'm already pricing out certain jobs at the various BMW Indy's in Maryland. I recently got an invoice for a car that needed the vanos hub and oil pump disk, rod bearings and bolts, oil pan gaskets, timing chain guide rails and tensioners, and a ton of other various gaskets. The total came out $3700 which seems like a steal for all of that work tbh. The goal is to still find a car that has at least 2 of the big 3 done (i've found a few already) but I'm still including all of that stuff into my budget.

I definitely want headers (for the sound), tires, and suspension for that perfect fitment, then a F10 illuminated shifter and ZCP wheels.

I doubt the Megans make as much power as OE euro, and I know they don't fit as well or as well made. I'd get used OE euro at that price point every single time (and did, on the M3 wagon).

... but there's lots of things I'd do before any header, especially because I wouldn't want headers without a catted section 1, which significant ups the price.

Can't you just do catless headers with stock section 1 and 2, and then a muffler of choice? I pretty much want this setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRiR...&index=20&t=0s but with a Remus exhaust (because I love those tips). Also I wasn't aware that I needed a tune for headers? Excuse my ignorance but what does the tune do?

[Inizes]

Sounds like $3700 for vanos and rod bearings, the rest of the parts are built into it.

VANOS: solenoid, oil pump disk, cam bolts, cam gears, upper timing chain guide, valve cover gasket, spark plug gaskets, other gaskets for valve cover bolts.

Rod Bearings: rod bearing + bolts, oil pan gasket.

Youre looking at roughly $2000-2700 in labor.

[Obioban]

Can't you just do catless headers with stock section 1 and 2, and then a muffler of choice? I pretty much want this setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRiR...&index=20&t=0s but with a Remus exhaust (because I love those tips). Also I wasn't aware that I needed a tune for headers? Excuse my ignorance but what does the tune do?

So long as you never come to a stop, sure.

The moment you do, your cheap hoopie cloud overtakes you. Given long enough it permeates and ruins the interior.