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Timing s54 after vanos rebuild installation

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  • sapote
    replied
    After setting the cams to the bridge pin with crank at TDC compression, there is a chance that the chain slack happened when loosening the hubs bolts, and this is the reason for the cams do not line up to the bridge pin on the final check. The easy way to compensate for chain slack is to set the crack 1mm or 2mm before TDC at the beginning of the procedure.

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  • marksae
    replied
    Originally posted by Chanman1029 View Post

    Glad you got it situated. When I was doing my rebuild I was having the same issue where I would adjust one of my cams(i think the intake cam) and every time after spinning the motor over the cam would drift ever so slightly out of place. I ended up actually moving it the same distance in the opposite direction the next time I adjusted the cam position. Turned the motor over several times and the pin dropped in rather smoothly, no mis fires or codes on first start!
    Thanks for the tip. Following the Beisan instructions, I encountered this same issue. I found the intake cam position would move slightly after just tightening intake hub bolts. Without even rotating the motor, just rocking the cam back and forth after tightening the hub bolts, I saw that intake cam would be slightly off. I noticed it was off by the same about each time I aligned the cam with the tool, so I just advanced it slightly before tightening the intake hub. Now the intake cam is timed properly.

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  • Chanman1029
    replied
    Originally posted by JokerElite View Post
    Reporting back, I eventually reinstalled the VANOS unit and tightened the top 4 intake and exhaust hub bolts. I checked the timing right after and the dowel inserted into each camshaft smoothly. Then I rotated the crank once to TDC (to access remaining bolts) and performed a timing test. I noticed the dowel required slight pressure to fit into the exhaust camshaft hole and would line up with the intake camshaft hole but would not go in. After tightening the remaining bolts, I rotated the crank once more to TDC (cams back at ~45°) and performed another test and the dowel goes into both holes with slight pressure.

    Is this fine?

    If so, can I back out the VANOS unit a little to slip in the new gasket or would this ruin timing?
    Glad you got it situated. When I was doing my rebuild I was having the same issue where I would adjust one of my cams(i think the intake cam) and every time after spinning the motor over the cam would drift ever so slightly out of place. I ended up actually moving it the same distance in the opposite direction the next time I adjusted the cam position. Turned the motor over several times and the pin dropped in rather smoothly, no mis fires or codes on first start!

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by JokerElite View Post

    You’re a lifesaver. It’s smooth again. Thank you for all your help 👍🏼
    Awesome! Congrats!

    Leave a comment:


  • JokerElite
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post

    I think INPA but don’t hold me to it. Its been a while.

    Reset VANOS and throttle adaptations. Clear all codes and start it again.
    You’re a lifesaver. It’s smooth again. Thank you for all your help 👍🏼

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    The multiple misfire happend to me and I don't believe is anything to worry about, clear it and I'll bet it won't come back.

    A vanos test via DIS or ISTA isn't a bad idea regardless.

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by JokerElite View Post

    Negative. What do I use to do this? DIS?
    I think INPA but don’t hold me to it. Its been a while.

    Reset VANOS and throttle adaptations. Clear all codes and start it again.

    Leave a comment:


  • JokerElite
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post

    Did you reset VANOS adaptations before first start?
    Negative. What do I use to do this? DIS?

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by JokerElite View Post
    Update: After the valve adjustment I turned over the engine again twice to TDC and the alignment pin went in like butter this time 🤨

    Buttoned everything up, started the car, and the idle has hesitation.

    I'm getting these codes on INPA:
    - 184 EVANOS regulation
    No pressure, error present, static error
    - 213 Misfire of multiple cyl. Exhaust
    - Misfire codes for each individual cylinder

    Assuming the misfire codes are caused by the VANOS issue. Any ideas on what that code means exactly?
    Did you reset VANOS adaptations before first start?

    Leave a comment:


  • JokerElite
    replied
    Update: After the valve adjustment I turned over the engine again twice to TDC and the alignment pin went in like butter this time 🤨

    Buttoned everything up, started the car, and the idle has hesitation.

    I'm getting these codes on INPA:
    - 184 EVANOS regulation
    No pressure, error present, static error
    - 213 Misfire of multiple cyl. Exhaust
    - Misfire codes for each individual cylinder

    Assuming the misfire codes are caused by the VANOS issue. Any ideas on what that code means exactly?

    Leave a comment:


  • maupineda
    replied
    You dont need to crank to build pressure, you need to connect a compressed air supply and power the tool while connected to the VANOS solenoids so you can operate those and fully retard the cams and then be able to disassemble it, or to time it for that matter.

    Leave a comment:


  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
    I think you're supposed to crank the engine to build up oil pressure, then use the tool to activate the solenoids.
    This makes sense, but it depends on having a good accumulator tank.

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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by sapote View Post
    So you turned on the switch to active the vanos solenoids and then crank the starter for 30sec? I thought somehow it also activates the starter to crank engine.
    I think you're supposed to crank the engine to build up oil pressure, then use the tool to activate the solenoids.

    There's others VANOS procedures on TIS that use that same tool, but they have you provide a source of compressed air to the VANOS with it off the car. Those don't have you crank the engine (not that it would do much with the unit off of the car anyway).

    Click image for larger version

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    Sidenote: pretty sure "11 6 050" is a typo and should actually read "12 6 050". "11 5 050" seems to be something else.

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by sapote View Post
    So you turned on the switch to active the vanos solenoids and then crank the starter for 30sec? I thought somehow it also activates the starter to crank engine.
    I will admit I don’t know, never had the privilege to use the tool.

    Leave a comment:


  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post
    I believe you connect it directly to the VANOS connector and supply it 12v from a battery source.
    So you turned on the switch to active the vanos solenoids and then crank the starter for 30sec? I thought somehow it also activates the starter to crank engine.

    Leave a comment:

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