Looking for Front Crank Seal DIY

[gabylonfive]

Hey all - hoping to get some insight from folks that have done this job before. It appears my front crank seal is leaking and I want to go ahead and replace it while I have all my pulleys and belts off already. I've tried looking for a definitive guide for doing this without any of the factory removal/installation tools (as they are NLA) and have come up somewhat empty. I'd rather not pull off the entire front end of my car as that would require evacuating AC and all that. I have good access to the balancer and seal with the fan and pulleys/belts off right now, so I feel I should be able to do it with the front end on.

Any tips you guys might be able to offer? I've got two seals, new bolts and a new washer ready to go along with an angle torque wrench - just want to try to prevent taking off the old seal and not being to get the new one on .

[heinzboehmer]

You can get to it with the front end on, but those balancer bolts are hard to undo that way. Hard to hold a breaker bar in place so that the socket doesn't slip and impossible to fit an impact in there. And they're e-torx, so they're easy to mar. The front end can come off without evacuating the AC system btw. Just swing the condenser out of the way. Only downside is that you need to drain the radiator.

Best advice I can give you is buy like a million seals in case you destroy some on install (I've damaged three before finally getting one in correctly, but I might just suck at installing this seal lol). Also use lots of lube. As far as the actual installation of the seal goes, I ended up using a cut up plastic cup to guide the seal into place and then a block of plywood with four holes drilled into it to thread the harmonic balancer bolts into and use as a press (I tried to get the BMW special tools for this job but couldn't find them anywhere). Look at the images on this thread for the plastic cup thing: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...cial-tool.html

There's some pics of my seal install (both times actually) in my journal if you want a visual reference.

[eacmen]

When I had mine done by an experienced BMW tech I bought two seals just in case. He ended up tearing one. So don't feel bad if you break one.

The wood block idea is a good one.


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[F1Dryvr]

I need help with this too. The sleeve is not adequate to get the inner seal around the crank. Ive already ruined one trying to get it on too. from what ive found "lube" is not recommended, but i could be wrong. Solo cups and bread are M3 tools...

[heinzboehmer]

from what ive found "lube" is not recommended, but i could be wrong.

For lube I used a good coating of engine oil, not assembly lube or something like that. It's hard enough to get it in when it's lubed, no clue how you would get it in dry.

Also, if anyone is going to try the wood block press thing, be sure to tighten each bolt veeery gradually. 1/4 turn or so then move on to the next one. You want to make sure the seal goes in straight, otherwise you risk ripping it.

[Mspir3d]

I need help with this too. The sleeve is not adequate to get the inner seal around the crank. Ive already ruined one trying to get it on too. from what ive found "lube" is not recommended, but i could be wrong. Solo cups and bread are M3 tools...

It's a pita, even with the engine out of the car. I wrapped an index card around the crank and slid the seal over the top iirc because the plastic piece the seal came with wasn't adequate.

[Kdubski]

Pay a shop. Out of all things in an engine rebuild that's one thing I couldn't do

[F1Dryvr]

Id rather pay them to tell me how...i can save on towing. Im trying the index card/plastic cup.

[robgill]

Pelican Parts has a decent DIY. I find the hardest part is getting it to slip onto the crank without folding over. This has worked for me:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

[F1Dryvr]

For lube I used a good coating of engine oil, not assembly lube or something like that. It's hard enough to get it in when it's lubed, no clue how you would get it in dry.

Also, if anyone is going to try the wood block press thing, be sure to tighten each bolt veeery gradually. 1/4 turn or so then move on to the next one. You want to make sure the seal goes in straight, otherwise you risk ripping it.

to be clear you only lubed the outer metal to metal part right not the inner flexible seal or the crank?

[heinzboehmer]

to be clear you only lubed the outer metal to metal part right not the inner flexible seal or the crank?

No, I lubed up everything.

[Mspir3d]

Id rather pay them to tell me how...i can save on towing. Im trying the index card/plastic cup.

If you find a thin but sturdy piece of plastic about the thickness of an index card it would probably work a little better. All I could think of at the time was an index card. If you use the index card, be sure not to leave any pieces behind.

[F1Dryvr]

Tried and failed today w solocup. The wood i had was super soft and i think it failed as the wood got cought on the alignment pin on the crank. I need a better piecd of wood too as the one i used was probably too soft and i was only able to use 2 bolts. Next one ill drill out a spot for the alignment pin.

[F1Dryvr]

I assume u guys just bought the kit for the rear? Im Im trying the tool back there...the savings if im successful will defray the cost of the 3(so far) front seals ive now bought!!!

[Mspir3d]

The rear seal kit works really well unlike the front.