Aftermarket connecting rods?

[SteelGreyM]

Well, as some of you may remember I toasted my engine recently. And I opted to do a rebuild instead of buying a new engine. At first I was on a budget simply because of shock. But now a few months later the rebuild is going along nicely and I’m starting to realize that this is my chance to do major work.

I was originally going to go with reusing my OEM rods. Then I started thinking about my build and thought that they were the weakest link in the system. While I do not plan on boosting the car or adding any major power upgrades in the next year or two, I want to try that later on in the future.

I went with CP pistons and it seems like the most popular/best choice is the forged CP rods as well. Anybody have any recommendations or experience in this area?

Here’s a link. https://store.vacmotorsports.com/mob...t-6-p3815.aspx

And if anyone cares or remembers the primal post I made here’s an update on the build process. The block cleaned up nicely to 87.25mm. Achilles Motorsport provided custom extra high valve clearance CP-Carillo pistons at stock CR for LESS than what everyone else charged for off the shelf pistons... those just got sent out for skirt and top coating.

I’ve purchased a new (used) head. Valve seals replaced. Cometic MLS head gasket. ARP head studs. BMW WPC rod bearings. Calico Coated OEM main bearings. OEM main bolts. I’m sure I’m forgetting some little stuff. I’ll have to make a final update when everything is finally put together. Including a price sheet!

[Nicholas1996]

I used molnar

[SteelGreyM]

I used molnar

What’s your opinion on them. Would you choose them again looking back?

[BBRTuning]

I'm running the Carrillo rods and JE pistons on my S54, along with VAC coated bearings; they've done about 40k miles now, most of which was track or canyon use. It's at about 357whp now with 288 cams etc.

I tried to find solid info on the difference in weights but I'm not 100% sure. Probably easy to verify with an email to Carrillo. Lang Racing states the OE rods are 640 grams (with bolts). The standard Carrillo is stated at either 493g or 499g but unclear if that includes bolts or not. There is also now a "light" rod offered by them that comes in at 434g.

[Nicholas1996]

What’s your opinion on them. Would you choose them again looking back?

Yeah they’re good rods I think. My machinists recommended them. Measure perfect and are finished nicely

[Mspir3d]

Im also running molnar rods. No problems so far and they take a beating in my car. I think they were 496 +/- 1 gram with the bolts.

[digger]

Molnar is probably best BFYB for a NA engine

[SteelGreyM]

Thanks for all the responses guys. While my car will be NA now I plan on boosting in a few years.

My builder recommended boostline (wiseco). Doesn’t seem like there’s a wrong choice here. I’ll do a little more general research on rods and go from there.

[ClevoCapri]

If your going to boost in a few years stick with the factory rod for now and change out to a rod/piston setup to work with boost later.

[bavmotorwerkz]

I used molnar

I've also gone with Molnar H-Beam 4340 lightweight rods. If you plan on exceeding 600whp, I would opt to pay just a few hundred more for Wiseco Boostline rods; hybrid between I and H beam, they can handle well over 1000hp. If you plan on NA power levels, Molnar H-beams are great value. Mine were balanced within 2g or less of each other out of the box.

[SteelGreyM]

I've also gone with Molnar H-Beam 4340 lightweight rods. If you plan on exceeding 600whp, I would opt to pay just a few hundred more for Wiseco Boostline rods; hybrid between I and H beam, they can handle well over 1000hp. If you plan on NA power levels, Molnar H-beams are great value. Mine were balanced within 2g or less of each other out of the box.

I dont plan on exceeding 600whp. My engine builder said that he could get me the boost line rods with ARP2000 bolts for $820 so I think this is almost a done deal. Only thing stopping me from getting them is the fact that I haven't seen any other s54s using these boost line rods. Then again wiseco has been in this business a long time and they wouldn't have earned the reputation they have if they were doing something wrong.

If your going to boost in a few years stick with the factory rod for now and change out to a rod/piston setup to work with boost later.

Why do you say that? The whole point of me upgrading now is so that I *dont* have to go back inside the engine later

[Flat-Six]

I dont plan on exceeding 600whp. My engine builder said that he could get me the boost line rods with ARP2000 bolts for $820 so I think this is almost a done deal. Only thing stopping me from getting them is the fact that I haven't seen any other s54s using these boost line rods. Then again wiseco has been in this business a long time and they wouldn't have earned the reputation they have if they were doing something wrong.



Why do you say that? The whole point of me upgrading now is so that I *dont* have to go back inside the engine later

I would think you would want a lower compression piston when boosting, and higher with NA????

[SteelGreyM]

I would think you would want a lower compression piston when boosting, and higher with NA????

Yes..

[Mspir3d]

Unless you live somewhere with a lot of e85. My built motor still has high compression. The stock engine made over 700whp last year before I pulled it. Rods and pistons all looked fine when I took it apart.

[digger]

I dont plan on exceeding 600whp. My engine builder said that he could get me the boost line rods with ARP2000 bolts for $820 so I think this is almost a done deal. Only thing stopping me from getting them is the fact that I haven't seen any other s54s using these boost line rods. Then again wiseco has been in this business a long time and they wouldn't have earned the reputation they have if they were doing something wrong.



Why do you say that? The whole point of me upgrading now is so that I *dont* have to go back inside the engine later

The wiseco rods are just I-beam rods with some marketing bs thrown in. Any of the name brand aftermarket will be fine