Need engine builders help, S54 build going terrible wrong.

[Sharino]

Long story but I have a S54 with oversized JE Pistons, carillo rods, PS Designs Alpha-N kit, VAC vanos delete, schrick cams, etc. Problem is, engine burns oil like crazy.

I had a reputable machinist help build the engine. He bored the block and rebuilt the head, valve job, new seals, etc. We have been battling this engine for over a year, constantly burns oil, like a smoke machine. This is what we have done so far:

1) Swapped another S54 head on, completely rebuilt, transferring supertech valves/springs, camshafts, etc. (no difference)
2) swapped oil pump as it has a VAC motorsports one and thought the pressure might be too high so put an oem pump in. (no difference)
3) pulled out the pistons, rehoned bore again, and installed new rings. Followed JE instructions perfectly, rings correctly orientated, lettering facing up, filed perfectly. We actually did this step twice. (no difference). Break in procedure as documented by JE, conventional oil, zinc breakin additive.
4) replaced PCV even though its going to catch can anyways, needed to elimate any possibilities.
5) verified oil drain back from valve cover to oil pain is free flowing

Car uses about a liter of oil per 100kms. Short of swapping in a new block I am stumped.

I am at my wits end, I have built plenty of BMW/Euro engines, never had an issue like this. Any advice please let me know....

[Slideways]

Which valve stem seals and piston rings were used? The Supertech valve seals are known to burn oil, so OE is preferred there. Do you know if the oil is entering the cylinder from the head or the block side?

[digger]

When you do vanos delete are you supposed to do something with oil system ? Like add a restrictor or something to the head ?

[Exclusivs]

Burning oil: at what rate/over the course of how many miles driven?


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[BBRTuning]

How was the engine broken in? I have almost an identical engine build, I did a high idle warmup, full heat cycle, then it was straight on the dyno for medium to full load runs within minutes of coming up to full temp. The engine has 40k on it now (maybe 1/4 of that on track) and doesn’t burn any oil at all, compared to the original engine that always did. Engines should be broken in properly under load, not by babying them around for 500 miles.

Are you running filters? As a tuner I strongly recommend people avoid running open stacks on these engines even with filters, but obviously running them fully open will greatly shorten engine life and introduce debris which will cause bore scoring. This would be a long-term issue though of course.

[Mspir3d]

Did you use a torque plate when boring/honing?

[SteelGreyM]

Which valve stem seals and piston rings were used? The Supertech valve seals are known to burn oil, so OE is preferred there. Do you know if the oil is entering the cylinder from the head or the block side?

Who makes the OE? Corteco or Elring? I was staring at pictures yesterday but couldn’t figure it out. I want to say elring?

[SteelGreyM]

Who makes the OE? Corteco or Elring? I was staring at pictures yesterday but couldn’t figure it out. I want to say elring?

Did you use a torque plate when boring/honing?

This. I learned the importance of this step recently after almost all people told me to do so. Even consulted with some of the best engine builders in the country who all required it for these engines...

So I made sure to find a shop who could do it for me. Don’t skip this step!

[digger]

Guys you don’t need a torque plate to stop oil consumption. It’s ideal to use one but it’s not the root cause.

What rings, size, type of face, low or standard tension etc got a p/n?

what oil ? What’s oil pressure hot idle?

di you know where the oil is being introduced ? Guides, crankcase, inlet ?

what guide clearance ?

Details of honing process and run in ?

[eacmen]

Leakdown test performed?


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[F1Dryvr]

Cp also recommends a torque plate for ring filing.

[SteelGreyM]

Cp also recommends a torque plate for ring filing.

Thanks for this

[Slideways]

Who makes the OE? Corteco or Elring? I was staring at pictures yesterday but couldn’t figure it out. I want to say elring?

I couldn't tell from the pictures as well. On the ECS site, the OE seals have raised lettering on them. You'd have to order both OE and Elring, compare and send a set back. I'd guess Elring since they make other critical seals for the engine such as the headgasket.

[F1Dryvr]

That said i didnt use one for my ring filing step. A video i watched on ring filing suggested perhaps not neccessary. Likely alters your ring gap by .001 or less(im not sure which direction). My build is for track and so there was wiggle room of .003 between a street gap vs a turbo nitrous gap so me being between that should mean i have nothing tp worry about as far as ring gap is comcerned. Also not sure if you mentioned your ring clocking. Cp had a diagram that i went with. There may be others ways of doing it but more than once the ring compressor spun the top ring by 45 degrees or more and i had to pull a piston out to re clock it.

[F1Dryvr]

Perhaps you got some glazing...

Ive tried to read as many sources as i can find to get the consistent recommendations at several steps of this build. Hope you get it sorted.

https://www.jepistons.com/blog/how-to-break-in-an-engine