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    Steering Coupler Change

    Hi Everyone,

    In the last few weeks I have some small knocking in the steering wheel. Yesterday I put the car on the jack stands. The knocking issue is as what I've expected - the steering coupler/guibo. In some DIYs I saw that the guys use treadlocker for the bolts of the coupler. But I didn't find information in TIS if it needed to be used. So my question is, do I need a treadlocker and what strength would you recommend?

    Thanks
    Jet Black E46 M3
    ex - Broom Yellow Fiat Coupe 400++ hp 1.8 -> 2.0 16VT 👿
    R.I.P. Speed Red Fiat Coupe 2.0 16VT 👻

    #2
    If you do, use blue.
    There was none on my bolts, which I reused.

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      #3
      New bolts come with threadlocker. Important bolt...use threadlocker.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        #4
        Threadlocker was there if you still had the original guibo- and it's blue threadlock specifically. btw I tried getting the steering colunm insert out of the guibo, and have been unable to do so--can only get the column out 1/2 way... I'm in the middle of clutch & tranny change.. funy times.. not...

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Rich022 View Post
          Threadlocker was there if you still had the original guibo- and it's blue threadlock specifically. btw I tried getting the steering colunm insert out of the guibo, and have been unable to do so--can only get the column out 1/2 way... I'm in the middle of clutch & tranny change.. funy times.. not...
          Two days later...I assume you got it out? There is a "catch" on mine that you have to rotate up after you start separating it a little. It keeps the connection from separating entirely while driving if the bolt disappears.

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            #6
            Today I finally changed the guibo. There was a significant play in the old one. I've purchased a new bolts and they had already applied blue threadlock. Unfortunately, when I removed the metal shield and the undertray I found out that one of my steering rack boots is cracked. A friend of mine helped me to inspect the steering rack and there is clunk noise in it. So, I'm considering an upgrade to the yellow tag ones. But I found that on a full lock there is a little play in the lower steering shaft joint. Is it normal or not? Because when I tested the car after the guibo change I couldn't feel any free play and noise when I shake the wheel and the car is standstill.

            Originally posted by Rich022 View Post
            Threadlocker was there if you still had the original guibo- and it's blue threadlock specifically. btw I tried getting the steering colunm insert out of the guibo, and have been unable to do so--can only get the column out 1/2 way... I'm in the middle of clutch & tranny change.. funy times.. not...
            Do you pull the steering wheel on its maximum position? I've used this DIY and it describes very good how to remove the guibo.

            NOTE: THESE ARE ONLY GUIDELINES BASED ON MY INSTALLS, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! I assume no responsibility for users following this DIY. Hey guys I just...
            Jet Black E46 M3
            ex - Broom Yellow Fiat Coupe 400++ hp 1.8 -> 2.0 16VT 👿
            R.I.P. Speed Red Fiat Coupe 2.0 16VT 👻

            Comment


              #7
              According to the diagram on page 2


              it says to always replace these bolts



              do these stretch when torqued and that’s why they need to be replaced?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by HighSchoolDream View Post
                do these stretch when torqued and that’s why they need to be replaced?
                Yeah, although I've personally reused them a couple times and it's been fine. Finally purchased them from FCP though, so I can replace them every single time I take them off for free now.
                2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                Comment


                  #9
                  torque is 16 ft/lb and the two bolts are not torque to yield. In this case, BMW recommends new bolts bc they com with threadlocker pre-applied. Another case very similar are our brake caliper bolts, bmw recommends changing, again, bc they come with threadlocker pre-applied. I finally managed to remove the steering giubo off the other night; lots of wiggling and then was able to get a long screwdriver to carefully pry it up...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I had to remove mine for rod bearings and reused my old bolts. The top one had red loctite and the bottom had nothing. They were as hard coming out as they were to put in. It's a 20 minute job if you don't screw anything up.
                    This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                    https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                    "Do it right once or do it twice"

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I found it was 100x easier to remove it off the rack first then off the column second. The other way around didn’t work for me.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        BMW recommends replacing any fasteners subjected to environmental conditions mostly because the anti-corrosion coating is assumed to be compromised.

                        Not necessary to replace every time.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                          #13
                          The bolts HighSchoolDream linked are the bolts for the metal reinforcement plate underneath the car. Those are torque to yield and thus should be replaced every time, but in practice this is not strictly necessary.
                          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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