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  • zzyzx85
    replied
    welp, the AC went out during my weekly drive. Had AC for the first 20 minutes and it quit half way through.

    I've checked the AC fuses (28, 62, 63) and they're good. AC clutch engages and stays engaged until I turn off the AC button.

    Any thing else I should look at?

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  • PSUEng
    replied
    My replacement side marker turn signals (Magnetti Marelli) are now showing evidence of moisture intrusion, something my original parts never did but I replaced the originals due to yellowing of the lenses a few years back. And, I need to replace the front corner turn signal assemblies due to yellowing. I"m tempted to forgo the Magnetti brand, and go straight Genuine and just pay the price but curious what others have done here. Genuine, or Magnetti? My original front corner lamps say "BOSCH" and my original side flashers don't say who made them, as far as I can tell. I don't want to buy stuff twice, and it looks like that's the case with these side turns.

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  • jayjaya29
    replied
    I dont want to give away core4's documentation freely but 100ftlbs, even on thread in studs, is fine. +1 if you put antisieze on the conical seat of the lug nuts

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  • SQ13
    replied
    Originally posted by jayjaya29 View Post

    Whats the spec you're torqueing them down to? Core4 suggests 100 ft-lbs is the correct torque spec for this application.
    Core4 specs might be different since the studs are pressed in. I have the standard thread in MSH studs. The spec for those is “factory torque or 90 lb-ft,” and I’ve been torquing to 85.

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  • jayjaya29
    replied
    Originally posted by SQ13 View Post
    I have fairly new Motorsport Hardware wheel studs on the car with zero track time. The body shop torqued them to 100-110 lb-ft even after I gave them the correct torque spec. Do y'all think it’s necessary to replace them, or would it be okay to continue running them? I’m just worried about the studs cracking, especially on track. MSH never responded to my email lol.

    Edit: Idk if it matters, but the car was not driven after they were overtorqued. I retorqued to the correct spec before leaving the shop.
    Whats the spec you're torqueing them down to? Core4 suggests 100 ft-lbs is the correct torque spec for this application.

    Leave a comment:

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