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For those of us running the OE non-CSL dipstick with CSL software, where would “full” be? I’ve randomly received the yellow light over the years. Never realized this could be the issue.
Mike
The FW has it 4mm higher, so CSL full would be 4mm above the max fill line on the non-CSL dipstick.
Both the physical CSL dipstick and the CSL FW call for more oil. If you started getting that light recently, it might be because of that and not a failing sensor.
For those of us running the OE non-CSL dipstick with CSL software, where would “full” be? I’ve randomly received the yellow light over the years. Never realized this could be the issue.
Is there any quick and dirty way to fix a sagging headliner (other than using pins) without removing the headliner?
Eventually I will replace the windshield and do it right.
The area is near the driver C pillar, wondered if I could remove the pillar and use steam to maybe reactivate to glue or get some adhesive up in that area.
Both the physical CSL dipstick and the CSL FW call for more oil. If you started getting that light recently, it might be because of that and not a failing sensor.
I've been quietly thinking how odd it was that it started happening right as I did my intake! I'm like 5/6 to the max line. I assume it's supposed to come up when low? I'll add more oil since the CSL dipstick shows the engine is okay for it.
What brand for oil level and temp sensor since hella doesn't seem to be in circulation anymore? Has anyone tried newer gen bmw sensors?
You just moved to CSL firmware, right?
Both the physical CSL dipstick and the CSL FW call for more oil. If you started getting that light recently, it might be because of that and not a failing sensor.
They said there’s some internals in the housing that you can’t get to that could wear out and leak. I’ve never heard of such a thing, I feel like that’s quite high as the job seems fairly straightforward and doesn’t involve a whole lot.
thermostat, o-rings and coolant...sounds crazy high
That seems overly excessive for a thermostat replacement. The housing shouldn't need to be replaced.
They said there’s some internals in the housing that you can’t get to that could wear out and leak. I’ve never heard of such a thing, I feel like that’s quite high as the job seems fairly straightforward and doesn’t involve a whole lot.
So my thermostat is acting up and stuck open. I understand the process in getting this swapped out however I don’t have the tools or space at the moment to get it done. I’m also getting married in the coming weekend so I don’t have the time on my hands anyway as I haven’t done this work before. A local shop quoted me $1130 for the thermostat and housing, just curious if anyone thinks that’s a rip off?
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