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I bought Leatherique a while ago, but didn't use it when i should've during the summer. We had a mini heatwave this week and took the opportunity to use it the first time. Initially after using 2nd step the cleaner the seat still felt oily, but after 24 hours it feels normal. I have some side bolster wear on the driver side, but it seemed to have darkened the wear area, so its less visible. I may need to do another treatment as the leather still feels a bit hard. My rear seats are still very soft feeling and matte looking as they are hardly ever used. Are the front seats supposed to feel the same way? I didn't treat the rear seats only did the front.
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It's perfectly normal for solutions to exist without the end user understanding the depths of the underlying functionality. I'm here to tell folks solutions that are proven to work.Originally posted by Tbonem3 View PostSaying you don't need rear o2s for smog is a lie unless you specifically explain how/why.
It's okay to be wrong.
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I don't give two shits what you do, I only care about truth (for those reading/searching for help/knowledge). Saying you don't need rear o2s for smog is a lie unless you specifically explain how/why. You made no mention of forcing readiness - I had to bring that up.Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
It forces readiness, yes. This was nothing more than the Martyn's tool settings.
People can believe me if they want or not. I'm not the only one with success using this.
No one's "big mad." No one cares about you.
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It forces readiness, yes. This was nothing more than the Martyn's tool settings.Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
EGT became irrelevant after a software update; it's not needed to pass (I turned mine off) Similar to EVAP.
But rear cat o2s are definitely needed for drive cycles - not sure how you could think they're not - what else is determining cat efficiency?
I would guess that your particular software got set as completed with your last tune. As soon as you disconnect the battery or clear a CEL, the drive cycles would get cleared. Or maybe your particular tune has forced the cat monitors to go green.
People can believe me if they want or not. I'm not the only one with success using this.
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EGT became irrelevant after a software update; it's not needed to pass (I turned mine off) Similar to EVAP.Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
People get big mad at me for this but i pass smog just fine with rear o2's and egt deleted. They are not needed even for the drive cycle.
But rear cat o2s are definitely needed for drive cycles - not sure how you could think they're not - what else is determining cat efficiency?
I would guess that your particular software got set as completed with your last tune. As soon as you disconnect the battery or clear a CEL, the drive cycles would get cleared. Or maybe your particular tune has forced the cat monitors to go green.
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People get big mad at me for this but i pass smog just fine with rear o2's and egt deleted. They are not needed even for the drive cycle.Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
No, no car needs rear o2s except to complete the emissions drivecycles for smog inspection.
FWIW, the SS HJS catted sect 1 does pass CA SMOG. I leave my rear o2s in and leave the pipes in, just swap the airbox.
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I'm debating bringing it out to CA, or the E36, not sure which I would prefer to have as a fun weekend car now that I'm living down in SD 3 days a weekOriginally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
No, no car needs rear o2s except to complete the emissions drivecycles for smog inspection.
FWIW, the SS HJS catted sect 1 does pass CA SMOG. I leave my rear o2s in and leave the pipes in, just swap the airbox.
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No, no car needs rear o2s except to complete the emissions drivecycles for smog inspection.Originally posted by fattycharged View Postdo i really need to run the O2's post SS sec1 cats?
TIA
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FWIW, the SS HJS catted sect 1 does pass CA SMOG. I leave my rear o2s in and leave the pipes in, just swap the airbox.
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do i really need to run the O2's post SS sec1 cats?
TIA
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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So that's what the rough circles are around the edges, it's where it used to be attached. This makes sense, my splash pan is a little beat up, and it explains why I couldn't find that part separately.Originally posted by jayjaya29 View Post
Its supposed to be but looks like the friction welds have failed and the panel separated.
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Damn it I'm back to 2nd crank starts, solved it by buying the Hella branded fuel pump 3 years ago so I figured I'd buy another one but it's doubled in price since then lol.
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