Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[maupineda]

I torqued those to 27NM

[Cubieman]

What is the flange referenced here?
FWIW just finishing up some TCK struts/Vorshlag plates, 25ft lbs feels like a bit much.

[TeraSeraph]

Thanks, I'll probably order some just because but thinking the bolts are likely fine, these likely see minimal if any stretch.

For whatever reason my strut brace bolts are always coming just loose enough to creak when it's loaded up. Perhaps there's some merit to replacing them after a few uses.

[Cubieman]

Still on the originals and reused many times. I did order new ones recently, but have not got around to putting them in, probably won't for a while. The original bolts still look fine and I think they are 10.9 grade.

Thanks, I'll probably order some just because but thinking the bolts are likely fine, these likely see minimal if any stretch.

[Slideways]

The pinch bolt for the front struts is listed as one time use, I usually always dont think twice and just replace.

Curious if others think its fine to reuse for a bit, I'll likely tag it on to a future order and drive as is for a while.

Still on the originals and reused many times. I did order new ones recently, but have not got around to putting them in, probably won't for a while. The original bolts still look fine and I think they are 10.9 grade.

[Cubieman]

The pinch bolt for the front struts is listed as one time use, I usually always dont think twice and just replace.

Curious if others think its fine to reuse for a bit, I'll likely tag it on to a future order and drive as is for a while.

[Slideways]

Carefully wiggle the connector and pull.

[mtree4me]

Steering wheel, why can’t I pull out position 1 and 3 connectors to the steering column?

I looked at e46 steering wheel removal and they just come out. But I’m doing the same thing and it’s stuck?

[Tbonem3]

Ball joints whose boots don't tear, garaged or good weather can go 200k, but that's not the standard an m3 owner would have I don't think.

Rubber's a whole diff story. Rtabs can be shot in 30k. The foam diff bushings seem to be pretty good to 100k+, but replacement will have major impression of improvement which is an important point - what standard will you pay for? Fresh bushings feel so good. Bearings are not bushings. No torn boot and no real slop that you can replicate, no need to replace imo but I did anyway tho I had about 140k at the time which is substantial enough.

[Slideways]

On a street driven car, how long could one expect the rear suspension inner/outer upper/lower bushings and ball joints to last? I'm at 85k, had a shop do the Turner adjustable lower arms (comes with new inner bushings) and the outer ball joints for those arms (Lems); the upper arm inners/outers were left alone and are original to the car. Now, my OCD is kicking in, and I just should have at least had the upper outers pressed in. But, the upper inners seem tricky, and labor intensive to do if they aren't worn. Symptoms to look out for? I don't want weak upper bushings prematurely wearing the new lowers, but maybe I'm ignorant of how the rear suspension geometry works with respect to "wearing" of these bushings/ball joints.

They tend to go well over 100k on a street driven car that is parked indoors. Many parts will last much longer if the car is not left out in the elements.

[jayjaya29]

I would expect them to last a very long time. The upper inner bushing is a very small rubber bushing so it would be hard for it to outright fail. The upper outer ball joint is also quite robust. I wouldn't lose sleep over it for a street driven car.

[PSUEng]

On a street driven car, how long could one expect the rear suspension inner/outer upper/lower bushings and ball joints to last? I'm at 85k, had a shop do the Turner adjustable lower arms (comes with new inner bushings) and the outer ball joints for those arms (Lems); the upper arm inners/outers were left alone and are original to the car. Now, my OCD is kicking in, and I just should have at least had the upper outers pressed in. But, the upper inners seem tricky, and labor intensive to do if they aren't worn. Symptoms to look out for? I don't want weak upper bushings prematurely wearing the new lowers, but maybe I'm ignorant of how the rear suspension geometry works with respect to "wearing" of these bushings/ball joints.

[jayjaya29]

I was puzzled when I installed a TCK setup on a friend's car many years ago. The only upside I could think of is that it will allow the spring to articulate a bit during the suspension travel. Sort of a cheap mans articulating spring perch that rogue and GC makes.

[Tbonem3]

Looks like they're 2.25" spec rather than 60mm. You can find thin metal or evenhard plastic "donuts" or shims that will have the same ID (like 2.25") but then a wider OD like 2.5" which might put your mind at ease. Truth be told, you don't need the entire flat surface of the spring to make contact in order for enough contact to be maintained. But it would feel better wouldn't it?

[Cubieman]

Edit, another question..

I am installing the TCK SA rear springs and the height adjusters are much smaller than flat area on the bottom of the springs, this seems odd.

There is a ton of slop, I know this should disappear when the vehicle is on the ground, but still, why not make them the size of the spring?

Also I bought some R.E articulating perches and they seem to seat even worse, especially is they are not centered perfectly. In addition, when the R.E perches are at their lowest setting the adjustment bolt is ~1mm from the axles.

I may use the adjusters from TCK as they can go lower but adjusting them looks like a pain as they are sitting down on control arm with very little access.

My BC's had the adjustment up top, that made things easier. Also they use both the lower and upper spring pads which the TCK's do not allow, somewhat disappointing.