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  • nuc1
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    The FW has it 4mm higher, so CSL full would be 4mm above the max fill line on the non-CSL dipstick.

    This corroborates the difference: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...7267#post97267
    Awesome. Learned something new today.

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by nuc1 View Post

    For those of us running the OE non-CSL dipstick with CSL software, where would “full” be? I’ve randomly received the yellow light over the years. Never realized this could be the issue.

    Mike
    The FW has it 4mm higher, so CSL full would be 4mm above the max fill line on the non-CSL dipstick.

    This corroborates the difference: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...7267#post97267

    Leave a comment:


  • nuc1
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    You just moved to CSL firmware, right?

    Both the physical CSL dipstick and the CSL FW call for more oil. If you started getting that light recently, it might be because of that and not a failing sensor.
    For those of us running the OE non-CSL dipstick with CSL software, where would “full” be? I’ve randomly received the yellow light over the years. Never realized this could be the issue.

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by YoitsTmac View Post
    I assume it's supposed to come up when low? I'll add more oil since the CSL dipstick shows the engine is okay for it.
    I assume BMW specced more oil on the CSL for the increased heat capacity.

    Originally posted by YoitsTmac View Post
    I have shifter parts for you to scan btw.
    Hell yeah! Let's do that sometime soon.


    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    Is there any quick and dirty way to fix a sagging headliner (other than using pins) without removing the headliner?

    Eventually I will replace the windshield and do it right.

    The area is near the driver C pillar, wondered if I could remove the pillar and use steam to maybe reactivate to glue or get some adhesive up in that area.

    Thanks for any ideas/tips.

    Click image for larger version

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    Leave a comment:


  • YoitsTmac
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    You just moved to CSL firmware, right?

    Both the physical CSL dipstick and the CSL FW call for more oil. If you started getting that light recently, it might be because of that and not a failing sensor.

    You can add more oil or mess with the tune:

    - https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...6059#post46059
    - https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...271#post260271
    I've been quietly thinking how odd it was that it started happening right as I did my intake! I'm like 5/6 to the max line. I assume it's supposed to come up when low? I'll add more oil since the CSL dipstick shows the engine is okay for it.

    I have shifter parts for you to scan btw.

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by YoitsTmac View Post
    What brand for oil level and temp sensor since hella doesn't seem to be in circulation anymore? Has anyone tried newer gen bmw sensors?
    You just moved to CSL firmware, right?

    Both the physical CSL dipstick and the CSL FW call for more oil. If you started getting that light recently, it might be because of that and not a failing sensor.

    You can add more oil or mess with the tune:

    - https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...6059#post46059
    - https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...271#post260271

    Leave a comment:


  • YoitsTmac
    replied
    What brand for oil level and temp sensor since hella doesn't seem to be in circulation anymore? Has anyone tried newer gen bmw sensors?

    Leave a comment:


  • Fitzy
    replied
    Originally posted by fattycharged View Post

    thermostat, o-rings and coolant...sounds crazy high
    That’s what I had thought.

    Leave a comment:


  • Getgonz
    replied
    Ya I dunno, looks pretty easy to me.

    Leave a comment:


  • fattycharged
    replied
    Originally posted by Fitzy View Post

    They said there’s some internals in the housing that you can’t get to that could wear out and leak. I’ve never heard of such a thing, I feel like that’s quite high as the job seems fairly straightforward and doesn’t involve a whole lot.
    thermostat, o-rings and coolant...sounds crazy high

    Leave a comment:


  • Fitzy
    replied
    Originally posted by jayjaya29 View Post
    That seems overly excessive for a thermostat replacement. The housing shouldn't need to be replaced.
    They said there’s some internals in the housing that you can’t get to that could wear out and leak. I’ve never heard of such a thing, I feel like that’s quite high as the job seems fairly straightforward and doesn’t involve a whole lot.

    Leave a comment:


  • jayjaya29
    replied
    That seems overly excessive for a thermostat replacement. The housing shouldn't need to be replaced.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fitzy
    replied
    So my thermostat is acting up and stuck open. I understand the process in getting this swapped out however I don’t have the tools or space at the moment to get it done. I’m also getting married in the coming weekend so I don’t have the time on my hands anyway as I haven’t done this work before. A local shop quoted me $1130 for the thermostat and housing, just curious if anyone thinks that’s a rip off?

    Leave a comment:


  • Getgonz
    replied
    Ok will do. Thanks

    Leave a comment:

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