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Doing some searching on fuel pump lock ring tools and just like seemingly everything else there are a ton of choices. Genuine BMW tool (#161020) is out due to price, but the BAUM, AST and Schwaben offerings look very similar to the genuine tool. Then there are CTA & BavAuto tools that look similar to one another but different from the genuine tool (complete circular contact with ring vs. open sides).
For those of you using one of these tools, which brand(s) are recommended?
A large flathead does work fine, just alternate which tabs you strike as to not bend one tab up. I use a tool that can be found locally almost anywhere.
This isn't the specific one but mine is of this style.
Doing some searching on fuel pump lock ring tools and just like seemingly everything else there are a ton of choices. Genuine BMW tool (#161020) is out due to price, but the BAUM, AST and Schwaben offerings look very similar to the genuine tool. Then there are CTA & BavAuto tools that look similar to one another but different from the genuine tool (complete circular contact with ring vs. open sides).
For those of you using one of these tools, which brand(s) are recommended?
Cheapest one as you'll probably only use it once. Or stick with the ol' multitasker - large flat head and a hammer lol
Doing some searching on fuel pump lock ring tools and just like seemingly everything else there are a ton of choices. Genuine BMW tool (#161020) is out due to price, but the BAUM, AST and Schwaben offerings look very similar to the genuine tool. Then there are CTA & BavAuto tools that look similar to one another but different from the genuine tool (complete circular contact with ring vs. open sides).
For those of you using one of these tools, which brand(s) are recommended?
I was installing transmission mounts tonight, weirded me out that they were too small at first but stretched into shape as I tightened them. That’s normal right? LOL.
And I’m curious I read a few people say make sure to not over tighten them. Why is the torque so low on these?
I also saw one or two DIY articles where the car does not have the vibration damper. Curious why someone would remove that.
Agree with zzyzx85 this is somewhat subjective, but the Ohlins spring rates are much higher than stock so it will feel more firm. If the roads you drive on suck it's even more unlikely to give you what you're looking for.
I went from Dinan's Koni kit(w/ shorter springs provided) to Ohlins RT(with vorshlags) and while it is firmer, it's just so much better.
Does anyone else here have an SMG and also left foot brakes?
I think it was last year that I started to teach my left foot to brake, (more like I did on the forklift at work), and it has improved my cornering smoothness by a good margin. Trail braking is easier, and easing on the power at just the right moment is also more accurate. Since there's no clutch I can sit still in the same position and find that my right knee is much happier not having to twist to apply the brakes. My only gripe is that I have a skinny brake pedal still, I might get an e46 automatic brake pedal so that I'm even more comfortable.
Yep I do! I actually left foot brake any car that isn't a manual. I raced sprint karts as a teenager so by the time I learned to drive on the road I was already used to left foot braking. Learned in my Dad's auto Camry, braked right foot for my driving test and went right back to left foot braking. Weird as right foot braking is completely natural to me when I'm driving a manual, but any time I only have two pedals I go back to left foot braking. Aside from anything else when driving in heavy traffic/high hazard situations it's useful have my foot primed on the brake.
Agree with zzyzx85 this is somewhat subjective, but the Ohlins spring rates are much higher than stock so it will feel more firm. If the roads you drive on suck it's even more unlikely to give you what you're looking for.
I went from Dinan's Koni kit(w/ shorter springs provided) to Ohlins RT(with vorshlags) and while it is firmer, it's just so much better.
I am a novice when it comes to anything suspension related. I currently have Koni Yellows w/ stock springs my car. My dumb question below:
Aside from the performance benefits, would "upgrading" to specifically Ohlin R&Ts result in reduced comfort during normal street driving or is there a chance ride comfort could be improved?
Unless the current suspension is blown out and floating like a boat, it'll likely be firmer than the current setup. Suspension feel is subjective; someone's "too firm" will be someone else's "just right".
I am a novice when it comes to anything suspension related. I currently have Koni Yellows w/ stock springs my car. My dumb question below:
Aside from the performance benefits, would "upgrading" to specifically Ohlin R&Ts result in reduced comfort during normal street driving or is there a chance ride comfort could be improved?
Does anyone else here have an SMG and also left foot brakes?
I think it was last year that I started to teach my left foot to brake, (more like I did on the forklift at work), and it has improved my cornering smoothness by a good margin. Trail braking is easier, and easing on the power at just the right moment is also more accurate. Since there's no clutch I can sit still in the same position and find that my right knee is much happier not having to twist to apply the brakes. My only gripe is that I have a skinny brake pedal still, I might get an e46 automatic brake pedal so that I'm even more comfortable.
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