Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[beemer_guy]

The under-drive kits are quite expensive and you don't really want them for a street car. I dont think a small chip on the pulley would have any adverse effects. FWIW I bought a URO water pump pulley and was not impressed with its build quality so I sent it back and re-used my original one.

I don't mind the expense for longevity, and the kits I looked at had only the power steering pump pulley and water pump pulley for the street, for the track I think they add the alternator, etc. Both my current pulleys have some cracks on them, and the reason I don't want to stick with plastic is because of how easily it seems to be to damage them, even when new.

The price of the genuine power steering pump pulley alone was about $120, and the water pump is over $200, which is insane to me, and ends up being comparable to the under-drive metal pulley kits. Even with lifetime replacement from FCP, I'm certain the cost will go up over time and since the replacement is in essence only a subsidization in that regard, it doesn't make sense financially to stick with OE here.

Thank you for letting me know about the URO, I'll keep them off the list.

[jayjaya29]

The under-drive kits are quite expensive and you don't really want them for a street car. I dont think a small chip on the pulley would have any adverse effects. FWIW I bought a URO water pump pulley and was not impressed with its build quality so I sent it back and re-used my original one.

[beemer_guy]

No I saw the same video prior to doing mine. This is the video.

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I did the exact same earlier to my pinion flange, was a pain trying to keep it steady on my workbench until I made more space. Similarly had a hell of a time trying to remove/re-install the driveshaft U-joint bolt, and had to have it on the floor with a pry bar through the U-joint.

I do have a dumb question regarding the power steering pump pulley though, I ordered a genuine pulley and it arrived with a slight chip on the outside, and I'm returning it since my current one also has multiple chips and I don't like the idea of dealing with a plastic piece that seems to be so easily damaged. I never had any issues removing mine, the damage was pre-existing, but I've been looking for aftermarket similarly driven pulley's made of aluminum, and haven't found too much info regarding what brands are worth it. I normally avoid URO but saw some mention as their pulley actually being worth it, and other pulley's I've found come as kits and are under-driven, such as Rogue Engineering, Turner's, etc.

I don't really care if it's under-driven as long as it isn't a safety issue (street car for the foreseeable future), and would like to know if anyone has particularly strong opinions about these options. Normally I stick with genuine/OE wherever I can, but for select items, such as this, I'd rather not.

[oceansize]

Wait....I just saw a YT video with this exact scene. You were like super anal about the markings on the pinion nut. Are you the dude?

No I saw the same video prior to doing mine. This is the video.

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[BCEXP]

I am going to answer my own question. Yes, just did it on a bench without a vise, easy. Here is your brace to break it free.

Wait....I just saw a YT video with this exact scene. You were like super anal about the markings on the pinion nut. Are you the dude?

[oceansize]

Will I be able to replace the pinion shaft seal with the differential outside the car if I don't have a large bench vise?

I am going to answer my own question. Yes, just did it on a bench without a vise, easy. Here is your brace to break it free.

[Kipjames3]

What's the wiper blade measurement everyone is getting nowadays? I keep seeing a couple of sizes for each blade.

[zzyzx85]

Yeah, I agree. But is there a street pad that will not vibrate like that on track even if it wears out faster etc?
For example, many years ago I used StopTech Street pads and while they were not a track pad, they survived my "far from flat out" track days and worked well on the street still thereafter.

So, I'm looking for something similar as I never experienced this vibration on my E46 ZCP with stock rotors and calipers.

I ran semi-metallic Centrics on both street and track (coincidentally Streets of Willow) and they survived without any noticeable vibrations. Some deposits but they came off with some street driving. Wear was good too.

[PSUEng]

Anyone know anything about GPS trackers? From a theft "prevention" standpoint that is. Recently thought about this on a trip I was on in another vehicle prone to theft...currently use an air tag in the vehicle but that's minimalist these days I guess with the tech available. I was at CES earlier in the year and went to a booth of a company offering GPS tracking, but didn't take the time to get the company name/info. Now kinda wish I'd have done that. Thoughts?

[eljay]

No such pads exist in my opinion. You either run a track pad or you don't.

Yeah, I agree. But is there a street pad that will not vibrate like that on track even if it wears out faster etc?
For example, many years ago I used StopTech Street pads and while they were not a track pad, they survived my "far from flat out" track days and worked well on the street still thereafter.

So, I'm looking for something similar as I never experienced this vibration on my E46 ZCP with stock rotors and calipers.

[jayjaya29]

No such pads exist in my opinion. You either run a track pad or you don't.

[eljay]

I am looking brake pad recommendation for occassional track days.

Background:
I drove my cousin's Z4M at a track driving school after being away for (too) many years. Great fun!
However, the front brakes started vibrating heavily once hot (let's say 1/3 into 20-minute session). We were sharing the car and the same happened to him during his sessions.
He then tells me this is happening to him even during a spirited drive on a windy road.

Brakes are new this year: new OEM ZCP drilled rotors and OEM pads.

Sounds like he needs different pads for this dual duty. Any recommendation in 2026 for a good compromise pad (street/track) without swapping for track days?

[Rafaello]

It’s an euro independent shop, all labor, I’m supplying all the hardware to do the job. I am having them throw a braided vanos oil line on as well while they’re in there. No tune is being done, I’m going to do that next spring when I get a csl air box.

They didn’t break it out, the quote was sent via a tekmetric link and just shows their total estimated cost, no hourly rate.

I highly recommend a tune even if you do the CSL airbox later you don’t want your engine running lean. Even a cheaper out of the box tune will work. If you’re removing cats I am 99% sure your car will be running lean. And running lean is not good. At least with running rich you get a bunch of loud pops but lean. No good, you’ll fry your pistons.

[Keith_MN]

Ratified was 4500, Eurocharged was 3200, Nur technik wanted 2450, and Further Performance was near that. I didn’t ask Orr I didn’t think they’d be willing to install customer supplied performance parts.

I want to offer to do it for you but time is not on my side. Put it away for the winter and I'll help you in the spring - or combine it with the intake install if you're farming that out too. I did full exhaust, intake, tune, etc on my car this year. Piece of cake!

[Fitzy]

Orr? They had reasonable service prices when I have inquired.

Ratified was 4500, Eurocharged was 3200, Nur technik wanted 2450, and Further Performance was near that. I didn’t ask Orr I didn’t think they’d be willing to install customer supplied performance parts.