Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[zzyzx85]

Yeah, I agree. But is there a street pad that will not vibrate like that on track even if it wears out faster etc?
For example, many years ago I used StopTech Street pads and while they were not a track pad, they survived my "far from flat out" track days and worked well on the street still thereafter.

So, I'm looking for something similar as I never experienced this vibration on my E46 ZCP with stock rotors and calipers.

I ran semi-metallic Centrics on both street and track (coincidentally Streets of Willow) and they survived without any noticeable vibrations. Some deposits but they came off with some street driving. Wear was good too.

[PSUEng]

Anyone know anything about GPS trackers? From a theft "prevention" standpoint that is. Recently thought about this on a trip I was on in another vehicle prone to theft...currently use an air tag in the vehicle but that's minimalist these days I guess with the tech available. I was at CES earlier in the year and went to a booth of a company offering GPS tracking, but didn't take the time to get the company name/info. Now kinda wish I'd have done that. Thoughts?

[eljay]

No such pads exist in my opinion. You either run a track pad or you don't.

Yeah, I agree. But is there a street pad that will not vibrate like that on track even if it wears out faster etc?
For example, many years ago I used StopTech Street pads and while they were not a track pad, they survived my "far from flat out" track days and worked well on the street still thereafter.

So, I'm looking for something similar as I never experienced this vibration on my E46 ZCP with stock rotors and calipers.

[jayjaya29]

No such pads exist in my opinion. You either run a track pad or you don't.

[eljay]

I am looking brake pad recommendation for occassional track days.

Background:
I drove my cousin's Z4M at a track driving school after being away for (too) many years. Great fun!
However, the front brakes started vibrating heavily once hot (let's say 1/3 into 20-minute session). We were sharing the car and the same happened to him during his sessions.
He then tells me this is happening to him even during a spirited drive on a windy road.

Brakes are new this year: new OEM ZCP drilled rotors and OEM pads.

Sounds like he needs different pads for this dual duty. Any recommendation in 2026 for a good compromise pad (street/track) without swapping for track days?

[Rafaello]

It’s an euro independent shop, all labor, I’m supplying all the hardware to do the job. I am having them throw a braided vanos oil line on as well while they’re in there. No tune is being done, I’m going to do that next spring when I get a csl air box.

They didn’t break it out, the quote was sent via a tekmetric link and just shows their total estimated cost, no hourly rate.

I highly recommend a tune even if you do the CSL airbox later you don’t want your engine running lean. Even a cheaper out of the box tune will work. If you’re removing cats I am 99% sure your car will be running lean. And running lean is not good. At least with running rich you get a bunch of loud pops but lean. No good, you’ll fry your pistons.

[Keith_MN]

Ratified was 4500, Eurocharged was 3200, Nur technik wanted 2450, and Further Performance was near that. I didn’t ask Orr I didn’t think they’d be willing to install customer supplied performance parts.

I want to offer to do it for you but time is not on my side. Put it away for the winter and I'll help you in the spring - or combine it with the intake install if you're farming that out too. I did full exhaust, intake, tune, etc on my car this year. Piece of cake!

[Fitzy]

Orr? They had reasonable service prices when I have inquired.

Ratified was 4500, Eurocharged was 3200, Nur technik wanted 2450, and Further Performance was near that. I didn’t ask Orr I didn’t think they’d be willing to install customer supplied performance parts.

[Keith_MN]

It’s an euro independent shop, all labor, I’m supplying all the hardware to do the job. I am having them throw a braided vanos oil line on as well while they’re in there. No tune is being done, I’m going to do that next spring when I get a csl air box.

They didn’t break it out, the quote was sent via a tekmetric link and just shows their total estimated cost, no hourly rate.

Orr? They had reasonable service prices when I have inquired.

[oceansize]

That’s fair. Just with work and where I live doing it myself isn’t really an option at the moment. I budgeted for install but not this much so just wanted to check and see if others were seeing these kind of prices. I’ve watched a number of installments videos and understand the process, so I know it isn’t something very difficult. I’m still debating on if I go through with this or wait until I have time and space to do it myself.

To illustrate how few steps there really are here is what I wrote down when I did mine.

1. Remove section 1
2. Remove aluminum skid plate
3. Remove plastic belly pan
4. Remove plastic engine beauty cover (top side)
5. Remove coolant overflow tank (dont forget wire connected to the bottom)
6. Remove secondary air pump hose
7. Remove secondary air pump valve from engine block
8. Disconnect o2 sensors from the heat shield clip
9. Remove exhaust aluminum heat shield (4 bolts)
10. Disconnect o2 sensors from harness
11. Disconnect headers (I got all but three or four nuts from the top)

I used a 6 inch 1/4 ratchet with a couple of varying length straight extensions attached to a u-joint adapter.

[Fitzy]

I would wait until you have time to put that on yourself considering those prices, unless you make a ton of money and it doesn't matter.

Headers where kind of the first larger job I did on this platform, just took some time, also a great time to put a new oring on your CPV.

As noted not a big deal job, just a pain in the ass in some ways, there are some great DIY's on here that make it easier.

Lots of shops don't really like aftermarket stuff as it frequently has fitment issues and requires lot of extra time that the customer doesn't feel they should necessarily have to pay for.

That’s fair. Just with work and where I live doing it myself isn’t really an option at the moment. I budgeted for install but not this much so just wanted to check and see if others were seeing these kind of prices. I’ve watched a number of installments videos and understand the process, so I know it isn’t something very difficult. I’m still debating on if I go through with this or wait until I have time and space to do it myself.

[Cubieman]

I have a set of super sprint headers I got on here and finally got my sunbeam section 1. Due to work I don’t exactly have the time to do this but want to get it done prior to winter. I called 4 shops near me in Minneapolis and got 3 quotes back at $4500, $3200, and $2450. These all seem insanely ridiculous, I get the first one was kind of a fuck off quote, but I was expecting more around $1500-1600. Is $2450 in the ballpark of the new going rate?

I would wait until you have time to put that on yourself considering those prices, unless you make a ton of money and it doesn't matter.

Headers where kind of the first larger job I did on this platform, just took some time, also a great time to put a new oring on your CPV.

As noted not a big deal job, just a pain in the ass in some ways, there are some great DIY's on here that make it easier.

Lots of shops don't really like aftermarket stuff as it frequently has fitment issues and requires lot of extra time that the customer doesn't feel they should necessarily have to pay for.

[oceansize]

It’s an euro independent shop, all labor, I’m supplying all the hardware to do the job. I am having them throw a braided vanos oil line on as well while they’re in there. No tune is being done, I’m going to do that next spring when I get a csl air box.

They didn’t break it out, the quote was sent via a tekmetric link and just shows their total estimated cost, no hourly rate.

Like tbone said, DIY. It’s a tedious job, but it is not a hard job, particularly if your exhaust hardware is in good shape. Obviously the worst thing that can happen is a header stud snaps. I feel like those shops are covering for that possibility, which I get. These are old cars now with many heat cycles assuming it’s been driven.

I would darn sure ask for a break down.

[Fitzy]

For 8 hours at $200 per hour that is $1600 or $2000 at $250 per hour. Are these euro car based independents? Are you supplying all the parts in addition to the headers and section 1 (gaskets etc)?

Anything else you're doing in addition to the headers and section 1? Tune application? Are these catless? Thus requiring a tune to remove any CELs? Welding in any bungs?

What is the labor rate and how many hours are they quoting? Even at 11 hours and $250 per hour that is $2750. I'm curious to see the break down.

It’s an euro independent shop, all labor, I’m supplying all the hardware to do the job. I am having them throw a braided vanos oil line on as well while they’re in there. No tune is being done, I’m going to do that next spring when I get a csl air box.

They didn’t break it out, the quote was sent via a tekmetric link and just shows their total estimated cost, no hourly rate.

[oceansize]

For 8 hours at $200 per hour that is $1600 or $2000 at $250 per hour. Are these euro car based independents? Are you supplying all the parts in addition to the headers and section 1 (gaskets etc)?

Anything else you're doing in addition to the headers and section 1? Tune application? Are these catless? Thus requiring a tune to remove any CELs? Welding in any bungs?

What is the labor rate and how many hours are they quoting? Even at 11 hours and $250 per hour that is $2750. I'm curious to see the break down.