Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Slideways]

Piecing some parts together for my VANOS/Valve adjust job coming up and grabbed an INA chain tensioner. First time I've handled such a part and noticed the shaft easily removes from the threaded housing. I'm guessing this is normal but wanted to put this out there for input. Also, when the shaft is inserted, I can push on the end it deflects a little, but feels somewhat "gritty". I just don't have any experience with these parts, learning now. Thoughts?

EDIT: Scratch first part of question as I found photos confirming the separation of the two parts.

EDIT2: Found a video suggestion to soak this part in oil before installing so interested to hear thoughts on that as well.

As Cubi said, TIS says to drain the oil only if reusing. For a new tensioner, install new crush washer and go.

[Cubieman]

Piecing some parts together for my VANOS/Valve adjust job coming up and grabbed an INA chain tensioner. First time I've handled such a part and noticed the shaft easily removes from the threaded housing. I'm guessing this is normal but wanted to put this out there for input. Also, when the shaft is inserted, I can push on the end it deflects a little, but feels somewhat "gritty". I just don't have any experience with these parts, learning now. Thoughts?

EDIT: Scratch first part of question as I found photos confirming the separation of the two parts.

EDIT2: Found a video suggestion to soak this part in oil before installing so interested to hear thoughts on that as well.

There will be engine oil pressure in the tensioner once the vehicle is running so the spring is just there to keep some tension when the vehicle isn't running.

I think TIS has instructions to push the oil out of the tensioner for some reason when removing, definitely lube it up before installing like you were talking about.

[PSUEng]

Piecing some parts together for my VANOS/Valve adjust job coming up and grabbed an INA chain tensioner. First time I've handled such a part and noticed the shaft easily removes from the threaded housing. I'm guessing this is normal but wanted to put this out there for input. Also, when the shaft is inserted, I can push on the end it deflects a little, but feels somewhat "gritty". I just don't have any experience with these parts, learning now. Thoughts?

EDIT: Scratch first part of question as I found photos confirming the separation of the two parts.

EDIT2: Found a video suggestion to soak this part in oil before installing so interested to hear thoughts on that as well.

[beemer_guy]

Are pulleys--specifically water pump--only replaced if damaged, i.e., a chip or something? Or are we otherwise reusing them? I too saw $200 water pump pulley and was surprised at the cost, and recommendation from some sellers it be replaced as a matter of fact with a water pump.

I've only added about 3,000 miles to my car, but in my service history I saw it had the water pump replaced at 83k miles, so about 11k miles ago, and I'm pretty sure they re-used the pulley. I do believe it's only if there is damage.

[PSUEng]

I don't mind the expense for longevity, and the kits I looked at had only the power steering pump pulley and water pump pulley for the street, for the track I think they add the alternator, etc. Both my current pulleys have chips on them, although the water pump pulley isn't as bad. The reason I don't want to stick with plastic is because of how easily it seems to be to damage them, even when new.

The price of the genuine power steering pump pulley alone was about $120, and the water pump is over $200, which is insane to me, and ends up being comparable to the under-drive metal pulley kits. Even with lifetime replacement from FCP, I'm certain the cost will go up over time and since the replacement is in essence only a subsidization in that regard, it doesn't make sense financially to stick with OE here.

Thank you for letting me know about the URO, I'll keep them off the list.

Are pulleys--specifically water pump--only replaced if damaged, i.e., a chip or something? Or are we otherwise reusing them? I too saw $200 water pump pulley and was surprised at the cost, and recommendation from some sellers it be replaced as a matter of fact with a water pump.

[beemer_guy]

Looks like your mind is set on the under driven units. I would just use the power steering pulley from the kit. You will need to figure out the new belt length with a piece of string, don't forget to account for the tensioner swing.

It's not set yet, I am always open to feedback. For the moment I'm thinking of just running my current pulleys although I believe both my pulleys are from the factory. A lot of other plastic components have already broken/been replaced with genuine parts, but if I have to spend around $300 or so I'd like to fairly evaluate all my options.

I just spent $60 on the small 2 piece plastic bracket that the power steering pump bracket attaches to, because it immediately shattered on me loosening the bolt so I feel a little biased currently.

Edit: I took a closer look at the pulleys, I always thought the water pump pulley was also plastic but it is metal, so I may just stick with returning my PS pulley and getting a non-damaged one.

If anyone has feedback on the under-driven pulleys feel free to let me know and I'll consider them if the new one ever gets damaged for some reason (although unlikely since I plan to be the only person working on my car).

[jayjaya29]

Looks like your mind is set on the under driven units. I would just use the power steering pulley from the kit. You will need to figure out the new belt length with a piece of string, don't forget to account for the tensioner swing.

[beemer_guy]

The under-drive kits are quite expensive and you don't really want them for a street car. I dont think a small chip on the pulley would have any adverse effects. FWIW I bought a URO water pump pulley and was not impressed with its build quality so I sent it back and re-used my original one.

I don't mind the expense for longevity, and the kits I looked at had only the power steering pump pulley and water pump pulley for the street, for the track I think they add the alternator, etc. Both my current pulleys have chips on them, although the water pump pulley isn't as bad. The reason I don't want to stick with plastic is because of how easily it seems to be to damage them, even when new.

The price of the genuine power steering pump pulley alone was about $120, and the water pump is over $200, which is insane to me, and ends up being comparable to the under-drive metal pulley kits. Even with lifetime replacement from FCP, I'm certain the cost will go up over time and since the replacement is in essence only a subsidization in that regard, it doesn't make sense financially to stick with OE here.

Thank you for letting me know about the URO, I'll keep them off the list.

[jayjaya29]

The under-drive kits are quite expensive and you don't really want them for a street car. I dont think a small chip on the pulley would have any adverse effects. FWIW I bought a URO water pump pulley and was not impressed with its build quality so I sent it back and re-used my original one.

[beemer_guy]

No I saw the same video prior to doing mine. This is the video.

.

I did the exact same earlier to my pinion flange, was a pain trying to keep it steady on my workbench until I made more space. Similarly had a hell of a time trying to remove/re-install the driveshaft U-joint bolt, and had to have it on the floor with a pry bar through the U-joint.

I do have a dumb question regarding the power steering pump pulley though, I ordered a genuine pulley and it arrived with a slight chip on the outside, and I'm returning it since my current one also has multiple chips and I don't like the idea of dealing with a plastic piece that seems to be so easily damaged. I never had any issues removing mine, the damage was pre-existing, but I've been looking for aftermarket similarly driven pulley's made of aluminum, and haven't found too much info regarding what brands are worth it. I normally avoid URO but saw some mention as their pulley actually being worth it, and other pulley's I've found come as kits and are under-driven, such as Rogue Engineering, Turner's, etc.

I don't really care if it's under-driven as long as it isn't a safety issue (street car for the foreseeable future), and would like to know if anyone has particularly strong opinions about these options. Normally I stick with genuine/OE wherever I can, but for select items, such as this, I'd rather not.

[oceansize]

Wait....I just saw a YT video with this exact scene. You were like super anal about the markings on the pinion nut. Are you the dude?

No I saw the same video prior to doing mine. This is the video.

.

[BCEXP]

I am going to answer my own question. Yes, just did it on a bench without a vise, easy. Here is your brace to break it free.

Wait....I just saw a YT video with this exact scene. You were like super anal about the markings on the pinion nut. Are you the dude?

[oceansize]

Will I be able to replace the pinion shaft seal with the differential outside the car if I don't have a large bench vise?

I am going to answer my own question. Yes, just did it on a bench without a vise, easy. Here is your brace to break it free.

[Kipjames3]

What's the wiper blade measurement everyone is getting nowadays? I keep seeing a couple of sizes for each blade.

[zzyzx85]

Yeah, I agree. But is there a street pad that will not vibrate like that on track even if it wears out faster etc?
For example, many years ago I used StopTech Street pads and while they were not a track pad, they survived my "far from flat out" track days and worked well on the street still thereafter.

So, I'm looking for something similar as I never experienced this vibration on my E46 ZCP with stock rotors and calipers.

I ran semi-metallic Centrics on both street and track (coincidentally Streets of Willow) and they survived without any noticeable vibrations. Some deposits but they came off with some street driving. Wear was good too.