Originally posted by Avedis
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Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed
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Thank you kind sir! The pictures and dimensions are very helpful, I will add that one to my next order and give it a shot.
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Took some measurements from my removed factory trunk lid.Originally posted by skylinekin View PostStruggling to find part number for the plugs that fill these holes on each side of the trunk lid…anyone have it?
Try this
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Would it be a waste of money buying a Genuine BMW clutch kit over a Sachs clutch kit? After reading some threads it sounds like it's best to just buy the Sachs clutch kit with the LuK TOB?
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I bought a Dinan intake kit and studying install, my laziness is really kicking in. Supposed to relocate the Xenon ignitor per Dinan instructions and I'm thinking, really? Can anyone chime in on the need for this? My OCD then kicks in with modifying the bracket and I'm like, well, gotta buy a new one of those to keep everything original...man I'm lazy these days. BUT--pulling the driver headlight to do this motivates me to pull the passenger side, and send out to Lightwerkz for the projector rebuild I've been delaying. So not all bad!
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Make sure your shop knows how to weld correctly. Lost a good set of euro headers due to bad welding about 15 years ago.Originally posted by oceansize View PostMy Innovate LC-2 wideband arrives Monday. I have euro headers and euro section 1 with cats.
It looks as though this doesn't simply replace a pre cat O2 sensor and that I will need to weld in a new bung. Is that correct? I'm also assuming this needs to go pre cat and that a pre cat section 1 install is fine.
Mike
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Yeah, with the euro headers you will need a new bung pre-cat.Originally posted by oceansize View PostMy Innovate LC-2 wideband arrives Monday. I have euro headers and euro section 1 with cats.
It looks as though this doesn't simply replace a pre cat O2 sensor and that I will need to weld in a new bung. Is that correct? I'm also assuming this needs to go pre cat and that a pre cat section 1 install is fine.
Most all the aftermarket headers have 4 bungs so all your sensors have a place, it's easier to install one of these in that case.
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My Innovate LC-2 wideband arrives Monday. I have euro headers and euro section 1 with cats.
It looks as though this doesn't simply replace a pre cat O2 sensor and that I will need to weld in a new bung. Is that correct? I'm also assuming this needs to go pre cat and that a pre cat section 1 install is fine.Last edited by oceansize; 07-18-2026, 09:21 AM.
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Maybe this:Originally posted by skylinekin View PostStruggling to find part number for the plugs that fill these holes on each side of the trunk lid…anyone have it?
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Awesome. Learned something new today.Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
The FW has it 4mm higher, so CSL full would be 4mm above the max fill line on the non-CSL dipstick.
This corroborates the difference: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...7267#post97267
Mike
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The FW has it 4mm higher, so CSL full would be 4mm above the max fill line on the non-CSL dipstick.Originally posted by nuc1 View Post
For those of us running the OE non-CSL dipstick with CSL software, where would “full” be? I’ve randomly received the yellow light over the years. Never realized this could be the issue.
Mike
This corroborates the difference: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...7267#post97267
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For those of us running the OE non-CSL dipstick with CSL software, where would “full” be? I’ve randomly received the yellow light over the years. Never realized this could be the issue.Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
You just moved to CSL firmware, right?
Both the physical CSL dipstick and the CSL FW call for more oil. If you started getting that light recently, it might be because of that and not a failing sensor.
Mike
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I assume BMW specced more oil on the CSL for the increased heat capacity.Originally posted by YoitsTmac View PostI assume it's supposed to come up when low? I'll add more oil since the CSL dipstick shows the engine is okay for it.
Hell yeah! Let's do that sometime soon.Originally posted by YoitsTmac View PostI have shifter parts for you to scan btw.
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Is there any quick and dirty way to fix a sagging headliner (other than using pins) without removing the headliner?
Eventually I will replace the windshield and do it right.
The area is near the driver C pillar, wondered if I could remove the pillar and use steam to maybe reactivate to glue or get some adhesive up in that area.
Thanks for any ideas/tips.
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I've been quietly thinking how odd it was that it started happening right as I did my intake! I'm like 5/6 to the max line. I assume it's supposed to come up when low? I'll add more oil since the CSL dipstick shows the engine is okay for it.Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
You just moved to CSL firmware, right?
Both the physical CSL dipstick and the CSL FW call for more oil. If you started getting that light recently, it might be because of that and not a failing sensor.
You can add more oil or mess with the tune:
- https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...6059#post46059
- https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...271#post260271
I have shifter parts for you to scan btw.
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