Struggling to find part number for the plugs that fill these holes on each side of the trunk lid…anyone have it?
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Awesome. Learned something new today.Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
The FW has it 4mm higher, so CSL full would be 4mm above the max fill line on the non-CSL dipstick.
This corroborates the difference: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...7267#post97267
Mike
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The FW has it 4mm higher, so CSL full would be 4mm above the max fill line on the non-CSL dipstick.Originally posted by nuc1 View Post
For those of us running the OE non-CSL dipstick with CSL software, where would “full” be? I’ve randomly received the yellow light over the years. Never realized this could be the issue.
Mike
This corroborates the difference: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...7267#post97267
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For those of us running the OE non-CSL dipstick with CSL software, where would “full” be? I’ve randomly received the yellow light over the years. Never realized this could be the issue.Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
You just moved to CSL firmware, right?
Both the physical CSL dipstick and the CSL FW call for more oil. If you started getting that light recently, it might be because of that and not a failing sensor.
Mike
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I assume BMW specced more oil on the CSL for the increased heat capacity.Originally posted by YoitsTmac View PostI assume it's supposed to come up when low? I'll add more oil since the CSL dipstick shows the engine is okay for it.
Hell yeah! Let's do that sometime soon.Originally posted by YoitsTmac View PostI have shifter parts for you to scan btw.
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Is there any quick and dirty way to fix a sagging headliner (other than using pins) without removing the headliner?
Eventually I will replace the windshield and do it right.
The area is near the driver C pillar, wondered if I could remove the pillar and use steam to maybe reactivate to glue or get some adhesive up in that area.
Thanks for any ideas/tips.
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I've been quietly thinking how odd it was that it started happening right as I did my intake! I'm like 5/6 to the max line. I assume it's supposed to come up when low? I'll add more oil since the CSL dipstick shows the engine is okay for it.Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
You just moved to CSL firmware, right?
Both the physical CSL dipstick and the CSL FW call for more oil. If you started getting that light recently, it might be because of that and not a failing sensor.
You can add more oil or mess with the tune:
- https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...6059#post46059
- https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...271#post260271
I have shifter parts for you to scan btw.
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You just moved to CSL firmware, right?Originally posted by YoitsTmac View PostWhat brand for oil level and temp sensor since hella doesn't seem to be in circulation anymore? Has anyone tried newer gen bmw sensors?
Both the physical CSL dipstick and the CSL FW call for more oil. If you started getting that light recently, it might be because of that and not a failing sensor.
You can add more oil or mess with the tune:
- https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...6059#post46059
- https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...271#post260271
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What brand for oil level and temp sensor since hella doesn't seem to be in circulation anymore? Has anyone tried newer gen bmw sensors?
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thermostat, o-rings and coolant...sounds crazy highOriginally posted by Fitzy View Post
They said there’s some internals in the housing that you can’t get to that could wear out and leak. I’ve never heard of such a thing, I feel like that’s quite high as the job seems fairly straightforward and doesn’t involve a whole lot.
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They said there’s some internals in the housing that you can’t get to that could wear out and leak. I’ve never heard of such a thing, I feel like that’s quite high as the job seems fairly straightforward and doesn’t involve a whole lot.Originally posted by jayjaya29 View PostThat seems overly excessive for a thermostat replacement. The housing shouldn't need to be replaced.
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That seems overly excessive for a thermostat replacement. The housing shouldn't need to be replaced.
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So my thermostat is acting up and stuck open. I understand the process in getting this swapped out however I don’t have the tools or space at the moment to get it done. I’m also getting married in the coming weekend so I don’t have the time on my hands anyway as I haven’t done this work before. A local shop quoted me $1130 for the thermostat and housing, just curious if anyone thinks that’s a rip off?
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