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What's the best option for a powersteering pump? new BMW ($$$), rebuild, or a new aftermarket? Mine has been whining for quite a while. Enough that I try to avoid turning the steering wheel at idle lol
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To locate it bang around the headliner like when you drop a bolt in your engine bay and it lands on top of one of the splash guards.
Also you could use a decent resolution borescore camera to check things out.
If magnetic it could maybe be retrieved with a bendy magnet, if not maybe some wire.
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There’s some sort of object (perhaps a nut or screw) that’s been rattling back and forth above the headliner for the past couple weeks that’s been driving me nuts. I removed the sunroof motor cover and the center light console but couldn’t find anything which leads me to believe that something came loose when I opened the sunroof a few weeks ago. Anyone have any insight or remedy that doesn’t involve dropping the headliner?
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There's almost no such thing as good enough when it comes to sealing your air intake downstream of the filter. You want an excellent seal between the filter and the housing, and an excellent seal at every step from there to the head. Don't compromise. If a sealing piece was there and now it's not, definitely find a way to put it back. Make sure everything's lined up right, too.Originally posted by bagger View PostWas cleaning my eventuri intake. The gasket between the housing and the filter broke. No problem, I got a replacement from IND. Then, after trying to put it back together the rubber seal that goes around the filter snapped while trying to wedge it back into the carbon fiber housing.
Do you think that rubber seal is actually necessary, or is that gasket that sits between the housing and the filter good enough?
Also - never cleaning my filter again. What a pain.
Thanks.
And yeah, filter cleaning is a scam. Annoying, yes – and unless you do it absolutely perfectly every time, which you won't because you're a human being and the real world isn't a lab, you'll end up with worse flow, worse filtration, or both.Last edited by IamFODI; 06-10-2026, 05:23 PM.
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Was cleaning my eventuri intake. The gasket between the housing and the filter broke. No problem, I got a replacement from IND. Then, after trying to put it back together the rubber seal that goes around the filter snapped while trying to wedge it back into the carbon fiber housing.
Do you think that rubber seal is actually necessary, or is that gasket that sits between the housing and the filter good enough?
Also - never cleaning my filter again. What a pain.
Thanks.
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I'd probably be grabbing some from a junkyard or ebay at this point as they may not be comming back.Originally posted by Fitzy View PostSo I replaced my door seals as well as the inner seal for the rear vent windows because they'd leak. Took it through a touchless wash and the window behind me leaked just as bad before. I'm assuming it's the window actuator motor now. They look to be back ordered on Turner, FCP, ECS, etc. with no ETA. Anyone know where to score a new one of these?
Too bad they aren't interchangeable as even used stuff isn't cheap when considering the part.
You might also check that there isnt any significant play in the armature portion.
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So I replaced my door seals as well as the inner seal for the rear vent windows because they'd leak. Took it through a touchless wash and the window behind me leaked just as bad before. I'm assuming it's the window actuator motor now. They look to be back ordered on Turner, FCP, ECS, etc. with no ETA. Anyone know where to score a new one of these?
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Thank you. I had the 9640 in my cart. Any reason I wouldn't use that beyond that you need a special gun to properly use it?Originally posted by Slideways View Post
JB Weld Plastic Bonder 50139 works well for a CF/metal bond and is low cost.
Loctite 9460 Hysol Non Sag Epoxy Structural Adhesive is more professional stuff.
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JB Weld Plastic Bonder 50139 works well for a CF/metal bond and is low cost.Originally posted by YoitsTmac View PostThe top connector for vacuum became separated from my Karbonius intake. Is there a recommended glue? Do I need to sand it?
Loctite 9460 Hysol Non Sag Epoxy Structural Adhesive is more professional stuff.
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That is an original pump as you can tell by the glue they put on the ring and pump from factory. 71k is nothing for these fuel pumps. They can go 100k plus if one is using good fuel, refilling on a regular basis and not constantly driving around with the tank on empty.Originally posted by bagger View PostI never looked at my fuel pump before, but was curious.
I'm going to guess based on the dirt it's original. Cleaned it up a bit more and it's a VDO with a blue top. Original most likely?
Also, if so, wait to get stranded or proactive replacement? Car is an 04 with 71k on it. I know there are a probably a billion threads on fuel pumps here that I can read based on the answer of replace or not.
Thanks.
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I would buy a fuel pump now if you're really motivated and keep on the shelf when you need it... probably a ton of life left in your pump.Originally posted by bagger View PostI never looked at my fuel pump before, but was curious.
I'm going to guess based on the dirt it's original. Cleaned it up a bit more and it's a VDO with a blue top. Original most likely?
Also, if so, wait to get stranded or proactive replacement? Car is an 04 with 71k on it. I know there are a probably a billion threads on fuel pumps here that I can read based on the answer of replace or not.
Thanks.
David
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Bumping this up - haven't addressed this in weeks since I haven't driven the car much. Any ideas?Originally posted by davidinnyc View PostSome new error codes yesterday. I hardly use the AC (drive with the windows down), but yesterday was especially hot and when I took one of the cars to pick up the kids from school in 95* temperatures, I tried to turn the AC on. Snowflake would illuminate and turn off immediately, and the air speed would be limited to 50%. Ambient air temperature reached 110*.
Plugged in the laptop and got these two codes:
24 Additional heater relay
Error frequency: 10
short circuit to batt+
Errorcode: 18010A2445C088510386
255 Energy saving mode active
Error frequency: 1
short circuit to ground
error present
Errorcode: FF42012489CF88510375
Anyone with a similar experience?
David
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The top connector for vacuum became separated from my Karbonius intake. Is there a recommended glue? Do I need to sand it?
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I have a fuel pump relay code, I can clear the code, run the fuel pump test via INPA and the code comes back everytime.
The vehicle is not showing any symptoms whatsoever of a bad fuel pump, it's fires everytime immediately, no hesitation. I have not tested fuel pressure.
I have read that it's possible a failing pump can draw more current on startup causing this code to appear.
I am thinking of trying a cheap used relay as new ones are $150. The prongs on the relay look fine, no signs of excessive heat etc.
What all should I be looking at/testing?
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I never looked at my fuel pump before, but was curious.
I'm going to guess based on the dirt it's original. Cleaned it up a bit more and it's a VDO with a blue top. Original most likely?
Also, if so, wait to get stranded or proactive replacement? Car is an 04 with 71k on it. I know there are a probably a billion threads on fuel pumps here that I can read based on the answer of replace or not.
Thanks.
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