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  • elrichmeister
    replied
    I bought Leatherique a while ago, but didn't use it when i should've during the summer. We had a mini heatwave this week and took the opportunity to use it the first time. Initially after using 2nd step the cleaner the seat still felt oily, but after 24 hours it feels normal. I have some side bolster wear on the driver side, but it seemed to have darkened the wear area, so its less visible. I may need to do another treatment as the leather still feels a bit hard. My rear seats are still very soft feeling and matte looking as they are hardly ever used. Are the front seats supposed to feel the same way? I didn't treat the rear seats only did the front.



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  • Cubieman
    replied
    What is the P/N for the actuator on the CSL snorkel?


    EDIT: P/N: 11617511383
    Last edited by Cubieman; 10-31-2025, 11:55 AM.

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  • bavarian3
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    Saying you don't need rear o2s for smog is a lie unless you specifically explain how/why.
    It's perfectly normal for solutions to exist without the end user understanding the depths of the underlying functionality. I'm here to tell folks solutions that are proven to work.

    It's okay to be wrong.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post

    It forces readiness, yes. This was nothing more than the Martyn's tool settings.

    People can believe me if they want or not. I'm not the only one with success using this.
    I don't give two shits what you do, I only care about truth (for those reading/searching for help/knowledge). Saying you don't need rear o2s for smog is a lie unless you specifically explain how/why. You made no mention of forcing readiness - I had to bring that up.

    No one's "big mad." No one cares about you.

    Leave a comment:


  • bavarian3
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

    EGT became irrelevant after a software update; it's not needed to pass (I turned mine off) Similar to EVAP.

    But rear cat o2s are definitely needed for drive cycles - not sure how you could think they're not - what else is determining cat efficiency?

    I would guess that your particular software got set as completed with your last tune. As soon as you disconnect the battery or clear a CEL, the drive cycles would get cleared. Or maybe your particular tune has forced the cat monitors to go green.
    It forces readiness, yes. This was nothing more than the Martyn's tool settings.

    People can believe me if they want or not. I'm not the only one with success using this.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post

    People get big mad at me for this but i pass smog just fine with rear o2's and egt deleted. They are not needed even for the drive cycle.
    EGT became irrelevant after a software update; it's not needed to pass (I turned mine off) Similar to EVAP.

    But rear cat o2s are definitely needed for drive cycles - not sure how you could think they're not - what else is determining cat efficiency?

    I would guess that your particular software got set as completed with your last tune. As soon as you disconnect the battery or clear a CEL, the drive cycles would get cleared. Or maybe your particular tune has forced the cat monitors to go green.

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  • bavarian3
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

    No, no car needs rear o2s except to complete the emissions drivecycles for smog inspection.

    FWIW, the SS HJS catted sect 1 does pass CA SMOG. I leave my rear o2s in and leave the pipes in, just swap the airbox.
    People get big mad at me for this but i pass smog just fine with rear o2's and egt deleted. They are not needed even for the drive cycle.

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  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Both are perfect for the canyon roads out here

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  • fattycharged
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

    No, no car needs rear o2s except to complete the emissions drivecycles for smog inspection.

    FWIW, the SS HJS catted sect 1 does pass CA SMOG. I leave my rear o2s in and leave the pipes in, just swap the airbox.
    I'm debating bringing it out to CA, or the E36, not sure which I would prefer to have as a fun weekend car now that I'm living down in SD 3 days a week


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Originally posted by fattycharged View Post
    do i really need to run the O2's post SS sec1 cats?

    TIA


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    No, no car needs rear o2s except to complete the emissions drivecycles for smog inspection.

    FWIW, the SS HJS catted sect 1 does pass CA SMOG. I leave my rear o2s in and leave the pipes in, just swap the airbox.

    Leave a comment:


  • fattycharged
    replied
    do i really need to run the O2's post SS sec1 cats?

    TIA


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Barracooda
    replied
    Originally posted by jayjaya29 View Post

    Its supposed to be but looks like the friction welds have failed and the panel separated.
    So that's what the rough circles are around the edges, it's where it used to be attached. This makes sense, my splash pan is a little beat up, and it explains why I couldn't find that part separately.

    Leave a comment:


  • E46 M3
    replied
    Damn it I'm back to 2nd crank starts, solved it by buying the Hella branded fuel pump 3 years ago so I figured I'd buy another one but it's doubled in price since then lol.

    Leave a comment:


  • jayjaya29
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    I thought those two pieces were glued/"welded" together no?
    Its supposed to be but looks like the friction welds have failed and the panel separated.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    I thought those two pieces were glued/"welded" together no?

    Leave a comment:

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