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Just get an HTE tune once your done installing all the parts on the car. A Dyno tune with HTE will really help.Originally posted by Getgonz View PostBasically is it worth getting some software and means to continuously try to dial it in? Or is simple enough to just have someone else do it. I had someone “dyno tune” one of my cars in the past and it was no better than what I had done before I brought it there. I ended up reading learning a bit, and pulled more out of it just driving around and messing with the laptop. I’m not planning on doing anything else to this car in the power category.
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If I understand correctly the Eventuri setup you're going with retains the MAF sensor right? If so with that and the euro headers you're ending up with something functionally pretty close to a standard Euro M3 setup, but with US fuel. Given you retain the MAF I don't think you really need to worry about mixture tuning as the MAF will measure accurately. Likewise I don't think there's going to be much difference at WOT either given the airbox still has the intake diameter restriction of the MAF sensor. I'd have thought the main thing would be adjustments for US fuel, but again if you run high enough octane then that's probably also not far off and just needs to account for winter mixes etc?. I'd have thought that a one-and-done tune based on the Euro software would be the way to go here? (someone correct me if I've missed something though).Originally posted by Getgonz View PostOk so this is lazy AF but. I’ve got my e46M3 , Eventuri carbon intake and CSL style box, euro headers on the way but not planning on much more in the air fuel category. Do I get a setup I can keep tuning? Or do I just bring it somewhere have it dialed and leave it. I’ve been dialing an old injected car for years depending on changes and obsessive nature.
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Basically is it worth getting some software and means to continuously try to dial it in? Or is simple enough to just have someone else do it. I had someone “dyno tune” one of my cars in the past and it was no better than what I had done before I brought it there. I ended up reading learning a bit, and pulled more out of it just driving around and messing with the laptop. I’m not planning on doing anything else to this car in the power category.
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Ah got it, Both will work depending on his plan and budget etc etc.....
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I think Getgonz is asking whether toOriginally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post
No idea what you just said......BUT Get it tuned professionally by HTE for example.....
1. Get the car tuned once with the plan of leaving it alone for the foreseeable future, or
2. Plan to continue tweaking the tune over time and select mods/tune accordingly.
(Getgonz please correct me if I'm wrong)
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No idea what you just said......BUT Get it tuned professionally by HTE for example.....Originally posted by Getgonz View PostOk so this is lazy AF but. I’ve got my e46M3 , Eventuri carbon intake and CSL style box, euro headers on the way but not planning on much more in the air fuel category. Do I get a setup I can keep tuning? Or do I just bring it somewhere have it dialed and leave it. I’ve been dialing an old injected car for years depending on changes and obsessive nature.
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Ok so this is lazy AF but. I’ve got my e46M3 , Eventuri carbon intake and CSL style box, euro headers on the way but not planning on much more in the air fuel category. Do I get a setup I can keep tuning? Or do I just bring it somewhere have it dialed and leave it. I’ve been dialing an old injected car for years depending on changes and obsessive nature.
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BMW E53 X5 M54 engine power steering pump. The bracket is slightly different but the pump body itself is the same.Originally posted by zzyzx85 View PostWhat's the best option for a powersteering pump? new BMW ($$$), rebuild, or a new aftermarket? Mine has been whining for quite a while. Enough that I try to avoid turning the steering wheel at idle lol
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What's the best option for a powersteering pump? new BMW ($$$), rebuild, or a new aftermarket? Mine has been whining for quite a while. Enough that I try to avoid turning the steering wheel at idle lol
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To locate it bang around the headliner like when you drop a bolt in your engine bay and it lands on top of one of the splash guards.
Also you could use a decent resolution borescore camera to check things out.
If magnetic it could maybe be retrieved with a bendy magnet, if not maybe some wire.
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There’s some sort of object (perhaps a nut or screw) that’s been rattling back and forth above the headliner for the past couple weeks that’s been driving me nuts. I removed the sunroof motor cover and the center light console but couldn’t find anything which leads me to believe that something came loose when I opened the sunroof a few weeks ago. Anyone have any insight or remedy that doesn’t involve dropping the headliner?
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There's almost no such thing as good enough when it comes to sealing your air intake downstream of the filter. You want an excellent seal between the filter and the housing, and an excellent seal at every step from there to the head. Don't compromise. If a sealing piece was there and now it's not, definitely find a way to put it back. Make sure everything's lined up right, too.Originally posted by bagger View PostWas cleaning my eventuri intake. The gasket between the housing and the filter broke. No problem, I got a replacement from IND. Then, after trying to put it back together the rubber seal that goes around the filter snapped while trying to wedge it back into the carbon fiber housing.
Do you think that rubber seal is actually necessary, or is that gasket that sits between the housing and the filter good enough?
Also - never cleaning my filter again. What a pain.
Thanks.
And yeah, filter cleaning is a scam. Annoying, yes – and unless you do it absolutely perfectly every time, which you won't because you're a human being and the real world isn't a lab, you'll end up with worse flow, worse filtration, or both.Last edited by IamFODI; 06-10-2026, 05:23 PM.
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Was cleaning my eventuri intake. The gasket between the housing and the filter broke. No problem, I got a replacement from IND. Then, after trying to put it back together the rubber seal that goes around the filter snapped while trying to wedge it back into the carbon fiber housing.
Do you think that rubber seal is actually necessary, or is that gasket that sits between the housing and the filter good enough?
Also - never cleaning my filter again. What a pain.
Thanks.
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I'd probably be grabbing some from a junkyard or ebay at this point as they may not be comming back.Originally posted by Fitzy View PostSo I replaced my door seals as well as the inner seal for the rear vent windows because they'd leak. Took it through a touchless wash and the window behind me leaked just as bad before. I'm assuming it's the window actuator motor now. They look to be back ordered on Turner, FCP, ECS, etc. with no ETA. Anyone know where to score a new one of these?
Too bad they aren't interchangeable as even used stuff isn't cheap when considering the part.
You might also check that there isnt any significant play in the armature portion.
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