I have a fuel pump relay code, I can clear the code, run the fuel pump test via INPA and the code comes back everytime.
The vehicle is not showing any symptoms whatsoever of a bad fuel pump, it's fires everytime immediately, no hesitation. I have not tested fuel pressure.
I have read that it's possible a failing pump can draw more current on startup causing this code to appear.
I am thinking of trying a cheap used relay as new ones are $150. The prongs on the relay look fine, no signs of excessive heat etc.
What all should I be looking at/testing?
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I never looked at my fuel pump before, but was curious.
I'm going to guess based on the dirt it's original. Cleaned it up a bit more and it's a VDO with a blue top. Original most likely?
Also, if so, wait to get stranded or proactive replacement? Car is an 04 with 71k on it. I know there are a probably a billion threads on fuel pumps here that I can read based on the answer of replace or not.
Thanks.
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I'm in Minnetonka. Seen a few black E46 M3s around this side of town. If you get those headers & Sunbeam installed, I'll know it's you!Originally posted by Fitzy View Post
I’ll keep that in mind thanks 😂 hey I see you’re in Minneapolis too, maybe I’ll see you cruising around!
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Lots of build threads out there with pictures of E46 track cars. Just saying...Originally posted by Fitzy View Post
thanks. I guess not sure what will make my car look like a street car vs not unless they’re looking for something completely stripped. I’ll send in photos and see what he says. I didn’t think getting headers would be like purchasing a suppressor, damn.
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thanks. I guess not sure what will make my car look like a street car vs not unless they’re looking for something completely stripped. I’ll send in photos and see what he says. I didn’t think getting headers would be like purchasing a suppressor, damn.Originally posted by jayjaya29 View PostThey will cancel the sale if your car is still a street car. They don't want to get dinged by the EPA for selling emission-altering components that will be used on the street, regardless if you live in a state where your car doesnt need emissions checks.
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They will cancel the sale if your car is still a street car. They don't want to get dinged by the EPA for selling emission-altering components that will be used on the street, regardless if you live in a state where your car doesnt need emissions checks.Last edited by jayjaya29; 05-27-2026, 04:31 AM.
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I ordered CPI single step headers from Bimmerworld last night. My plan is to mate those with the Sunbeam section 1. I got a message from a Sr. Sales Rep that they must be a race application only and need pictures of the front, rear, and interior of my car before they’re sent out. What’s up with this? Can I just send regular photos and go on about my purchase? I’m in MN, my car doesn’t get inspected. Also who’s to say my plan isn’t to get a catted section 1?
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Thanks for this! I'll give it a run and see if this fixes it.Originally posted by karter16 View Post
Just had a check and confirmed:
- zero point adaption happens during the pre-drive check every time you start the car.
- 100% point adaption happens in the followup (period of time after the car is switched off after driving) if one of the following is true (virgin DME, EGAS/EDK adaptions cleared).
So yes - clear the EGAS/EDK adaptions and it should happen next time you turn the car off. (it can also be triggered over DS2, but clearing adaptions seems like an easier solution)
Also fwiw if you have an OBD2 cable you can use MSS54 DS2 Tool to both clear the adaptions and read the live values the DME is receiving from the pedal.
DS2 must be a newer one, I've never heard of it. My E46 M has been relatively trouble free Atleast for smaller issues like this. She's a track only car at this point so it's a pain in the butt to diagnose smaller issues like this.
I do have it registered, just driving a no ac gutted interior car isn't so appealing when I don't have to
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I recently installed an Autosolutions SSK on my E30 and I used a big pair of channel lock pliers to force the pin through. I can't remember if I used the pliers as a lever against the tunnel or I actually squeezed the pin through the last tab with the pliers but they got it done. It was struggle trying to get the pin/clip in by hand.Originally posted by DJAM3 View PostI've been struggling with an Autosolutions SSK installation. Finally got the shift arm carrier inside the transmission ears and it looks to me like it's 99% aligned but the pin won't go in. Any tips to get the last 1% adjustment?
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Stamp shows 11.00, so November 2000Originally posted by bavarian3 View PostCan anyone tell what manufacturer date my pump is? Grok thinks it's a 2019 year
Under the electrical connector, it should have the week of the year and the year.
Not really in AI's wheelhouse.
Last edited by Slideways; 05-25-2026, 08:13 PM.
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Can anyone tell what manufacturer date my pump is? Grok thinks it's a 2019 year
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Just had a check and confirmed:Originally posted by Darbshaw View Post
I haven't done the adaptation process for the new pedal yet.
Do you know the process for this? Or is it just resetting adaptations? (I'm going to google after posting)
I did test the wiring harness for proper voltage and ground. All the pins did their parts, so I'm ruling out wiring unless you all feel otherwise. I need to get real jumper pins so I can get the multimeter in the back end of the plug before I can test plugged in. I'll see what Amazon has to offer in the meantime
As for the EML itself. The light will be intermittent and then came back on today after a few minutes of idle.
- zero point adaption happens during the pre-drive check every time you start the car.
- 100% point adaption happens in the followup (period of time after the car is switched off after driving) if one of the following is true (virgin DME, EGAS/EDK adaptions cleared).
So yes - clear the EGAS/EDK adaptions and it should happen next time you turn the car off. (it can also be triggered over DS2, but clearing adaptions seems like an easier solution)
Also fwiw if you have an OBD2 cable you can use MSS54 DS2 Tool to both clear the adaptions and read the live values the DME is receiving from the pedal.Last edited by karter16; 05-25-2026, 07:09 PM.
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I haven't done the adaptation process for the new pedal yet.Originally posted by karter16 View Post
The pedal has two position sensors in it, one that measures a 0-5V range and the other measures a 0-2.5V range. The DME compares the readings from the two to ensure that they both agree on the position of the pedal.
When you swapped the pedal did you do the adaption/learning process? as I think the DME has to learn the ranges the new pedal is reporting.
Second thing would be to look at the actual values the DME is seeing from those two sensors and see whether it's that they're not quite aligning, or no signal at all from one of them (could point to wiring issue), etc.
Do you know the process for this? Or is it just resetting adaptations? (I'm going to google after posting)
I did test the wiring harness for proper voltage and ground. All the pins did their parts, so I'm ruling out wiring unless you all feel otherwise. I need to get real jumper pins so I can get the multimeter in the back end of the plug before I can test plugged in. I'll see what Amazon has to offer in the meantime
As for the EML itself. The light will be intermittent and then came back on today after a few minutes of idle.
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