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  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by bagger View Post
    Was cleaning my eventuri intake. The gasket between the housing and the filter broke. No problem, I got a replacement from IND. Then, after trying to put it back together the rubber seal that goes around the filter snapped while trying to wedge it back into the carbon fiber housing.

    Do you think that rubber seal is actually necessary, or is that gasket that sits between the housing and the filter good enough?

    Also - never cleaning my filter again. What a pain.

    Thanks.
    There's almost no such thing as good enough when it comes to sealing your air intake downstream of the filter. You want an excellent seal between the filter and the housing, and an excellent seal at every step from there to the head. Don't compromise. If a sealing piece was there and now it's not, definitely find a way to put it back. Make sure everything's lined up right, too.

    And yeah, filter cleaning is a scam. Annoying, yes – and unless you do it absolutely perfectly every time, which you won't because you're a human being and the real world isn't a lab, you'll end up with worse flow, worse filtration, or both.
    Last edited by IamFODI; Today, 05:23 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • bagger
    replied
    Was cleaning my eventuri intake. The gasket between the housing and the filter broke. No problem, I got a replacement from IND. Then, after trying to put it back together the rubber seal that goes around the filter snapped while trying to wedge it back into the carbon fiber housing.

    Do you think that rubber seal is actually necessary, or is that gasket that sits between the housing and the filter good enough?

    Also - never cleaning my filter again. What a pain.

    Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by Fitzy View Post
    So I replaced my door seals as well as the inner seal for the rear vent windows because they'd leak. Took it through a touchless wash and the window behind me leaked just as bad before. I'm assuming it's the window actuator motor now. They look to be back ordered on Turner, FCP, ECS, etc. with no ETA. Anyone know where to score a new one of these?
    I'd probably be grabbing some from a junkyard or ebay at this point as they may not be comming back.

    Too bad they aren't interchangeable as even used stuff isn't cheap when considering the part.

    You might also check that there isnt any significant play in the armature portion.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fitzy
    replied
    So I replaced my door seals as well as the inner seal for the rear vent windows because they'd leak. Took it through a touchless wash and the window behind me leaked just as bad before. I'm assuming it's the window actuator motor now. They look to be back ordered on Turner, FCP, ECS, etc. with no ETA. Anyone know where to score a new one of these?

    Leave a comment:


  • YoitsTmac
    replied
    Originally posted by Slideways View Post

    JB Weld Plastic Bonder 50139 works well for a CF/metal bond and is low cost.

    Loctite 9460 Hysol Non Sag Epoxy Structural Adhesive is more professional stuff.
    Thank you. I had the 9640 in my cart. Any reason I wouldn't use that beyond that you need a special gun to properly use it?

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by YoitsTmac View Post
    The top connector for vacuum became separated from my Karbonius intake. Is there a recommended glue? Do I need to sand it?
    JB Weld Plastic Bonder 50139 works well for a CF/metal bond and is low cost.

    Loctite 9460 Hysol Non Sag Epoxy Structural Adhesive is more professional stuff.

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by bagger View Post
    I never looked at my fuel pump before, but was curious.

    I'm going to guess based on the dirt it's original. Cleaned it up a bit more and it's a VDO with a blue top. Original most likely?

    Also, if so, wait to get stranded or proactive replacement? Car is an 04 with 71k on it. I know there are a probably a billion threads on fuel pumps here that I can read based on the answer of replace or not.

    Thanks.

    Click image for larger version

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    That is an original pump as you can tell by the glue they put on the ring and pump from factory. 71k is nothing for these fuel pumps. They can go 100k plus if one is using good fuel, refilling on a regular basis and not constantly driving around with the tank on empty.

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  • davidinnyc
    replied
    Originally posted by bagger View Post
    I never looked at my fuel pump before, but was curious.

    I'm going to guess based on the dirt it's original. Cleaned it up a bit more and it's a VDO with a blue top. Original most likely?

    Also, if so, wait to get stranded or proactive replacement? Car is an 04 with 71k on it. I know there are a probably a billion threads on fuel pumps here that I can read based on the answer of replace or not.

    Thanks.

    Click image for larger version

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    I would buy a fuel pump now if you're really motivated and keep on the shelf when you need it... probably a ton of life left in your pump.

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • davidinnyc
    replied
    Originally posted by davidinnyc View Post
    Some new error codes yesterday. I hardly use the AC (drive with the windows down), but yesterday was especially hot and when I took one of the cars to pick up the kids from school in 95* temperatures, I tried to turn the AC on. Snowflake would illuminate and turn off immediately, and the air speed would be limited to 50%. Ambient air temperature reached 110*.

    Plugged in the laptop and got these two codes:

    24 Additional heater relay
    Error frequency: 10
    short circuit to batt+
    Errorcode: 18010A2445C088510386

    255 Energy saving mode active
    Error frequency: 1
    short circuit to ground
    error present
    Errorcode: FF42012489CF88510375

    Anyone with a similar experience?

    David
    Bumping this up - haven't addressed this in weeks since I haven't driven the car much. Any ideas?

    Leave a comment:


  • YoitsTmac
    replied
    The top connector for vacuum became separated from my Karbonius intake. Is there a recommended glue? Do I need to sand it?

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    I have a fuel pump relay code, I can clear the code, run the fuel pump test via INPA and the code comes back everytime.

    The vehicle is not showing any symptoms whatsoever of a bad fuel pump, it's fires everytime immediately, no hesitation. I have not tested fuel pressure.

    I have read that it's possible a failing pump can draw more current on startup causing this code to appear.

    I am thinking of trying a cheap used relay as new ones are $150. The prongs on the relay look fine, no signs of excessive heat etc.

    What all should I be looking at/testing?

    Leave a comment:


  • bagger
    replied
    I never looked at my fuel pump before, but was curious.

    I'm going to guess based on the dirt it's original. Cleaned it up a bit more and it's a VDO with a blue top. Original most likely?

    Also, if so, wait to get stranded or proactive replacement? Car is an 04 with 71k on it. I know there are a probably a billion threads on fuel pumps here that I can read based on the answer of replace or not.

    Thanks.

    Click image for larger version

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    Attached Files

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  • Keith_MN
    replied
    Originally posted by Fitzy View Post

    I’ll keep that in mind thanks 😂 hey I see you’re in Minneapolis too, maybe I’ll see you cruising around!
    I'm in Minnetonka. Seen a few black E46 M3s around this side of town. If you get those headers & Sunbeam installed, I'll know it's you!

    Leave a comment:


  • Fitzy
    replied
    Originally posted by Keith_MN View Post

    Lots of build threads out there with pictures of E46 track cars. Just saying...
    I’ll keep that in mind thanks 😂 hey I see you’re in Minneapolis too, maybe I’ll see you cruising around!

    Leave a comment:


  • Keith_MN
    replied
    Originally posted by Fitzy View Post

    thanks. I guess not sure what will make my car look like a street car vs not unless they’re looking for something completely stripped. I’ll send in photos and see what he says. I didn’t think getting headers would be like purchasing a suppressor, damn.
    Lots of build threads out there with pictures of E46 track cars. Just saying...

    Leave a comment:

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