Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[BMWE46M3]

That may be a total mother to chase or hopefully you can be fortunate and find that it's simply a poor grounding issue. I'd suggest disconnecting and cleaning the battery cables and points where they mount to the car. If that doesn't help you can also try doing the same in the engine bay where the car is supposed to be jumped and/or connected to the battery tender. And if that doesn't work you can try the same with the alternator cables and mounting points. Lastly, see if it happens with and with the AC compressor running. I've been chasing a similar problem for years with my E36 which I completely replace the head unit, amp, and speakers with high-end stuff. Worked flawlessly for years than I get engine whine - but only periodically. For the life of me I can't remediate it.

[Calb]

I have a BlueBus issue. I installed my BlueBus 6 months ago and absolutely love it. The 5x turn signal is great. Last week there has been a buzzing sound that matches the engine revs. I have not done anything to the car and confused as to why this is happening.
TIA

[ugaexploder]

Anybody have experience with these "aftermarket" HJS muffler hangers? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...js-18201401797

The OE BMW ones are $85/piece and I need 3. Would much rather spend $25/piece, but won't bother if they're crap or lesser in quality from the BMW pieces. I hesitate because it says it's aftermarket, not OEM.

I'm running the HJS ones mainly because at time of purchase I didn't really understand the differences between OE, OEM, and Genuine BMW parts...but they seem to work just fine, I've had zero issues. Hard to justify $350 for all (5) exhaust bushings that are genuine BMW...

Also purchased the rogue mount but didn't install, let me know if anyone wants to buy it from me for cheap. I personally don't like the idea of the design.

[karter16]

I *think* the HJS were found to be subpar, more flexible, someone else will chime in I'm sure.
I remember going OEM but this was 3 years ago when they were likely much cheaper.

FWIW one of the Uber expensive, but very nice, Rouge Engineering mounts on PS coupled with rubber OE style mounts on the DS makes for a solid yet still compliant setup with minimal to zero NVH.

I have a SCZA muffler that would hit the EVAP casing on occasion and that is the reason I run that setup.

Can confirm the aftermarket ones are rubbish, OE is expensive but cheaper in the long run than replacing every year.


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[Cubieman]

I *think* the HJS were found to be subpar, more flexible, someone else will chime in I'm sure.
I remember going OEM but this was 3 years ago when they were likely much cheaper.

FWIW one of the Uber expensive, but very nice, Rouge Engineering mounts on PS coupled with rubber OE style mounts on the DS makes for a solid yet still compliant setup with minimal to zero NVH.

I have a SCZA muffler that would hit the EVAP casing on occasion and that is the reason I run that setup.

[ATB88]

Anybody have experience with these "aftermarket" HJS muffler hangers? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...js-18201401797

The OE BMW ones are $85/piece and I need 3. Would much rather spend $25/piece, but won't bother if they're crap or lesser in quality from the BMW pieces. I hesitate because it says it's aftermarket, not OEM.

[bagger]

to me, that just looks like a remnant of a sticker. i feel like you should be able to just pick it off.

Hah. Wow. I never wanted to pick at it to potentially make it worse. Picked at it, and you were right - thanks! How that never came off with all the tire cleaning and stuff I have no idea. Glad I'm in the dumb question thread. Thanks!!

[L0okitzRaj]

to me, that just looks like a remnant of a sticker. i feel like you should be able to just pick it off.

[bagger]

Not sure what happened here. Been there for a while, but now it's bothering me. Should I be worried about this? Or just sharpie it and call it a day? Tires probably have like 2,000 miles on them - tops.

[Shonky]

Can somebody remind me what color wire is the 12V switched power going to the BM53 amp in the trunk? I think it's red with green stripe??

Also, anybody what gauge wire that 12V switched line is? I'm trying ton find the right size posi-connector to tap into it.

RT/GN (rot,gruen) is permanent 12V. Switched should be VI/WS aka violet/white.

[duracellttu]

Can somebody remind me what color wire is the 12V switched power going to the BM53 amp in the trunk? I think it's red with green stripe??

Also, anybody what gauge wire that 12V switched line is? I'm trying ton find the right size posi-connector to tap into it.

[Cubieman]

I was amazed at the amount of paint marker "debris" that I found on my M6 oil filter shortly after doing RB's. Probably not a big deal, but I will go a bit ligher on that next time. I just like to mark each bolt immediately after its torqued.

[Slideways]

I've heard the recommendation to do an oil change ~1200 miles after fresh rod bearings which sounds reasonable. Is there any merit to also doing one really soon (100-200 miles in) just to get all of the dirt/grit/assembly lube that found its way into the engine during the job out of there? Is that standard practice?

Reason for not changing the oil is that the oil filter will catch any debris and they didn't do a 1200 mile oil change after the recall.

[IamFODI]

I've heard the recommendation to do an oil change ~1200 miles after fresh rod bearings which sounds reasonable. Is there any merit to also doing one really soon (100-200 miles in) just to get all of the dirt/grit/assembly lube that found its way into the engine during the job out of there? Is that standard practice?

Any merit? Sure. I wouldn't expect it to change the game, but theoretically there should be some benefit.

I've heard of change schedules something like, first oil change after the first ~10 minutes of runtime, then again after a couple hundred miles, then again at ~1k miles, then whatever your normal change interval is. I'm sure I'm remembering the numbers wrong so don't take them as gospel, but you get the idea.

[ATB88]

I've heard the recommendation to do an oil change ~1200 miles after fresh rod bearings which sounds reasonable. Is there any merit to also doing one really soon (100-200 miles in) just to get all of the dirt/grit/assembly lube that found its way into the engine during the job out of there? Is that standard practice?