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Would a rivnut work? Just thinking out loud. Would be really hard to remove if the threads got messed up.
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Thanks for the suggestion! I’ve been checking eBay and no luck yet. I did find some damaged bumper reinforcements with all the clips and such still intact so I’ll just likely do that to get the hardware and trash the damaged bar.Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
When I went to a Euro bumper there was a guy on Ebay selling these, likely not OEM, but a nice copy, but tight fit and worked perfectly.
I just searched BMW prestol cage bumper or something like that, I want to say they were gold in color.
I think if someone is looking to replace the washer fluid/horn mount clips they could toss the self tapping bolts and use M6 bolts instead with part number 37146850307 Prestol-Cage (M6 Zns3) which has an M6 nut insert and is still available to buy…but for the bumper pins since those are self tapping thread this idea won’t work (sharing in case someone else runs into this issue).
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When I went to a Euro bumper there was a guy on Ebay selling these, likely not OEM, but a nice copy, but tight fit and worked perfectly.Originally posted by skylinekin View PostHoping there is an obvious solution to this that I haven’t found yet….Anyone have a solution for finding replacement nut inserts for the front carbon/Kevlar bumper reinforcement bumper pins? Looks like they are NLA, and the only option is likely buying a damaged used reinforcement just for the clips..
07129901748
Prestol-cage
ST6,3-ZNS
I just searched BMW prestol cage bumper or something like that, I want to say they were gold in color.
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I used a hardware store spring nut aka speed nut although I think technically "speed nut" is the wrong term for these. Looks just like the below, has worked great and even reused them a few times so far.Originally posted by skylinekin View PostHoping there is an obvious solution to this that I haven’t found yet….Anyone have a solution for finding replacement nut inserts for the front carbon/Kevlar bumper reinforcement bumper pins? Looks like they are NLA, and the only option is likely buying a damaged used reinforcement just for the clips..
07129901748
Prestol-cage
ST6,3-ZNS
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Someone with a 3D printer should make some inserts for this. I'm sure they would sell.
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thanks for the info, appreciate it.Originally posted by jayjaya29 View PostUnfortunately as far as I know, there are no suitable alternatives:
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...rvoir-mounting
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Hoping there is an obvious solution to this that I haven’t found yet….Anyone have a solution for finding replacement nut inserts for the front carbon/Kevlar bumper reinforcement bumper pins? Looks like they are NLA, and the only option is likely buying a damaged used reinforcement just for the clips..
07129901748
Prestol-cage
ST6,3-ZNS
1 Photo
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Haven't taken a dash out before, but I would think that those pieces would fall out if the glove box is removed.Originally posted by duracellttu View PostRandom question…I was replacing the red fixtures for the trim piece that goes over the glove box. On disintegrated and bits fell into the hole. Is there anyway to fish them out? Don't know if that area is accessible if I take apart the glovebox. I can hear the pieces rattling around.
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Random question…I was replacing the red fixtures for the trim piece that goes over the glove box. On disintegrated and bits fell into the hole. Is there anyway to fish them out? Don't know if that area is accessible if I take apart the glovebox. I can hear the pieces rattling around.
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When adjusting the rebound on Ohlins R&T, is it right = stiff, left = loose?
So would you turn right all the way until it can't click anymore, then start clicking left?
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Awesome! Thank you for that detailed info and links! Yeah $55 doesn't seem that bad for that first kit if you’re recommending it and say it’s much easier. I’ll look into getting that one then, will def reach out/PM you when I tackle the job with any questions lol, appreciate it!Originally posted by Bebop View PostYou need to use a different connector. the one that comes with the Spal is shit and the factory one is not easy to deal with if you're not equipped with good crimpers.
The best solution is a connector that uses closed barrel pins. I suggest a Deutsch DTP 2 positions.
This kit comes with the proper crimper and it a breeze to install.
I know it's not crazy cheap, but this is the way.
The Deutsch connectors are also re-usable, so if you need to change the fan down the road or the controller, you can do that without having to cut/re-crimp your wiring.
Alternatively, you can also use a Metripak 630, which is cheaper but a lot easier to mess the crimping process :
I still don't recommend it.
Let me know if you want more details/explanations, just ask, I do automotive wiring for a living.
Quick last dumb question; what’s the best way for me to determine which wires on the controller are + and ground? With BMWs seems brown is usually ground but dont want to assume, I dont know how to test beforehand 😅
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You need to use a different connector. the one that comes with the Spal is shit and the factory one is not easy to deal with if you're not equipped with good crimpers.
The best solution is a connector that uses closed barrel pins. I suggest a Deutsch DTP 2 positions.
https://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-Contact-Complete-Connector-Crimper/dp/B00WMZC6RG/ref=sr_1_1?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BjR0PDsrcygYV1Hzi_uUXk EYS3TblMovS0SedZf00-hn7FxZSE9_UEUkfydpyW5XWDu6vDuyw0s0XuQz9HYf1OZqrdom mB1IJekOQ871U2G3oCQwKFEkwLPtkEfP052bVpOvYpNjgMM42L 27Z2bj0_i8zpDj5sEOBrhifljDKhGauRjXtkjKsd5Ep2mUxxAj auP3A12bNDAGOxiIMGP2zy0hvC_MNIpGI7EvEIPQCZk5Kv6Rq_ DcLmo8wSNAuDFQbPVnI0Q9uqiOu-1paoZc7X_371EW6qF6Q3oUSTeZgZg.NcL941fImJVd-bI_Z8u0CbtSI6T8U_kml60R6iMUO0E&dib_tag=se&keywords =Deutsch+2+Pin+Solid+Contact+Complete+Connector+Ki t+w%2F+Crimper&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1773415744& s=hi&sr=1-1
This kit comes with the proper crimper and it a breeze to install.
I know it's not crazy cheap, but this is the way.
The Deutsch connectors are also re-usable, so if you need to change the fan down the road or the controller, you can do that without having to cut/re-crimp your wiring.
Alternatively, you can also use a Metripak 630, which is cheaper but a lot easier to mess the crimping process :
Connector :
https://www.amazon.com/Ballenger-Motorsports-Compatible-Metripack-Receptacle/dp/B08PV8X3BT/ref=sr_1_20?crid=2Y5C9EM6JO5NI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.OT YAbuOw2HCvncQLWNWcVE9-TrOKb0n24gDl9XE6S6O-avirRNUH8RQwvFNZcFIBAmnF67j8coA9P37uX5Ayna32Fyii-9FZ8mWDCab1KY9ttZd-FzT2pqOMcHMICAGwN-fa_YI-91d_owNjVIv8Ck5RobVTJhtEV9uvBM9CCq62yFzMD06NaW2vEP Vy1tahjOk_y_cQOsCZAvYvn5RQ20ht5g95AShkRoE60vr-JJvUMxseiHdppLGp4j0nvnbCsKNlLOKmTkp5In-f_uKkvztb61ibKHmVcQet6Q8PKv0.s7OxFsl6QF-wJeIx6nTgZzyLRtc-fAtA-4BplSuY52w&dib_tag=se&keywords=metripack%2B630&qid =1773416055&s=hi&sprefix=metripack%2B630%2Bconnect or%2Ctools%2C275&sr=1-20&th=1
Crimper:
https://www.amazon.com/HKS-Crimping-Terminals-Metri-Pack-Connectors/dp/B0CGTZ6G46/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3KJ906DBIMK8Y&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.fem Zld5Wp47oGW-MjdRsAGkRL1UbNSsHe-idbHQ-c-jFNOXHvXhL1kSa_qQlslGTm8LCzzLH5gm50HNHdhAmX0cjXSQt 1UUse8RNKuXUPxOhvuFguGIQF8eTOV3avukcEmzvtHasvzQzFP turE8yhLPK5AlLcJNKsaxRGXPE1hzRBtLvQUAknTrFKpIV_yXb VmSEaAOSRCG9HrdzW-BozegzoR4Q_zOLkEEEL01DjH8bvV5Fwxofy-G5rFw4Wn72JaZ3WuvjjNVDA6aBxLEggd08z51Uo9C0bNRg6A5a Zoc.l7cPPV_DsT4NM8W0j0D7KLo2qU0jlJ6qnL8vXnBLM7Q&di b_tag=se&keywords=metripack%2B630%2Bcrimper&qid=17 73416116&s=hi&sprefix=metripack%2B630%2Bcrim%2Ctoo ls%2C244&sr=1-1&th=1
I still don't recommend it.
Let me know if you want more details/explanations, just ask, I do automotive wiring for a living.Last edited by Bebop; 03-13-2026, 07:37 AM.
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Dumb question cause I'm a dummy when it comes to anything wiring related; how do I wire the front aux fan controller to run a SPAL fan? I figure its just + and - but they're different thicknesses and i dont know which on the controller is which, also should I cut off the harness plug on the fan wiring and just splice the wires to the controller’s?
The intent is to have the front aux fan controller (front fan and shroud removed) running the SPAL 14” fan thats mounted in Zionsville shroud as main fan. Thanks!
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