Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[oceansize]

Thanks all for the thoughts!

Completely unrelated, I have a p/n request: I pulled my windshield wiper arms off the other day to install a new cowl. I found that sitting just under where the arms attach to the spindles, there seemed to be some sort of bushign and/or plastic washer that was all busted and degraded. I would like to replace before putting the wiper arms back on, but no idea how to find them?

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-M3-S54_3.2L/Exterior/Wiper/Hardware/

[ATB88]

Thanks all for the thoughts!

Completely unrelated, I have a p/n request: I pulled my windshield wiper arms off the other day to install a new cowl. I found that sitting just under where the arms attach to the spindles, there seemed to be some sort of bushign and/or plastic washer that was all busted and degraded. I would like to replace before putting the wiper arms back on, but no idea how to find them?

[Slideways]

No issues getting bearings done with the 3/8ths.

The problem with torquing anything like this on one's back is sliding around on the floor. The trick is finding something to brace against and keep from sliding around during the angle torque. A loose wheel with tire laying flat on the floor is a good option.

The 3/8ths is much more useful for the home DIYer. For a mechanic doing bearings every few days, the 1/2" is the way to go.

As crazy as it sounds, the 3/8ths can do head bolts. Final 90 angle comes out to around 80 ft-lbs, but it is quite a workout. Probably best to borrow a 1/2" for this.

M10 rod bolts register around 65 ft-lbs on the final 105 angle.

[George Hill]

. Also only having to do a single 70 degree sweep hopefully makes it manageable.

Every single RB I have done so far I have used this gauge. Its not the cheapest option, but there is no reason why you couldn't use a simple angle gauge (since I saw you looking for a techangle).

https://stahlwille.com/en_de/products/detail/856162

[ATB88]

I've probably done 75+ sets of rod bearings, maybe more? The torque is 5nm, 30nm and then an angle. I use me 3/8" torque wrench to do the initial set, then 30nm. I then use a mechanical dial gauge and and a 1/2" ratchet to do the angle. *I have use the 3/8" techangle to do the angle but its not very fun. If you have the front suspension hanging and not removed you'll be dealing with a lot of obstacles and that will influence your wrench size as well.

I actually just got a 1/2" techangle and will do my first set of bearings with it in the next week or two. I will still use the 3/8 torque wrench for the 30nm though

Thanks for chiming in. My hope is that the flex head on the 1/2" techangle will allow me to work around geometric constraints. Also only having to do a single 70 degree sweep hopefully makes it manageable.

If anyone else has experiences using the 3/8" or 1/2" techangles to do RBs with suspension in and the car on jackstands, would be grateful to hear!

[George Hill]

I've probably done 75+ sets of rod bearings, maybe more? The torque is 5nm, 30nm and then an angle. I use me 3/8" torque wrench to do the initial set, then 30nm. I then use a mechanical dial gauge and and a 1/2" ratchet to do the angle. *I have use the 3/8" techangle to do the angle but its not very fun. If you have the front suspension hanging and not removed you'll be dealing with a lot of obstacles and that will influence your wrench size as well.

I actually just got a 1/2" techangle and will do my first set of bearings with it in the next week or two. I will still use the 3/8 torque wrench for the 30nm though

[ATB88]

Right, sorry for the confusion, what I am saying is i don't know if the torque for the "older" bolts is the same of not.
For what its worth I did the RB's on my E63 M6 a few months ago and needed the 1/2". The torque for those was 6nm, 20nm, 130°, very similar.

I would get an opinion from someone else but it felt like for me, someone of "average" strength the 3/8" wrench maybe could have worked but I really don't think I would have managed to do each bolt with just one pass.
It's got to be something with torquing above your head side to side not up/down where you are more firmly planned.

Ah, got it. Yeah the torque sequence on the M10 (newer) bolts seems like it would require applying more torque -- just first pass is 105 degrees rather than just a single pass of 70 degrees for the M11 bolts. But it's not clear how much more "actual" torque I'll need to be applying to get where I need to be with one vs the other. So, yeah, I see, maybe it is possible to get away with a 3/8" techangle. I don't think I want to take the chance though. I think I'll just get the 1/2" techangle and then sell it on if I really think it would be nice to have a 3/8" for general use.

Thanks for the sanity check!

[Cubieman]

Yeah I mean I guess I just don't understand if there's a way for me to know if I can "get away" with the 3/8" until I'm in there doing it, right? I think I'm kind of confused by what you were saying -- the two bolts only differ in that one's M11 and the other's M10 -- I don't know much about this stuff but is there a reason one bolt would be significantly easier/harder to torque than the other? I would have assumed they'd be about the same.

I absolutely agree that the 3/8" techangle is a *way* more useful tool to have around than the 1/2", but unless someone can tell me that it's obviously not hard to properly do the rod bearing torque sequence (on my back) with the 3/8" techangle, then I think I have to go 1/2" to cover my ass :/

Right, sorry for the confusion, what I am saying is i don't know if the torque for the "older" bolts is the same of not.
For what its worth I did the RB's on my E63 M6 a few months ago and needed the 1/2". The torque for those was 6nm, 20nm, 130°, very similar.

I would get an opinion from someone else but it felt like for me, someone of "average" strength the 3/8" wrench maybe could have worked but I really don't think I would have managed to do each bolt with just one pass.
It's got to be something with torquing above your head side to side not up/down where you are more firmly planned.

[ATB88]

I have only done the latter style bolts and forgot the specs on the other bolts. I swear I was puzzled, it felt like I was putting 100ft lbs worth of work into each bolt only to see the reading was ~50ft lbs. Must have something to do with the angle as I do wheel bolts all the time with a 3/8".

If you can get away with the 3/8" do it!
Getting the 1/2" will leave you with a less capable all around tool due to the size and the fact it won't go quite a low as the 3/8" will in regards to torque.

You might ask George Hill for his opinion.

Yeah I mean I guess I just don't understand if there's a way for me to know if I can "get away" with the 3/8" until I'm in there doing it, right? I think I'm kind of confused by what you were saying -- the two bolts only differ in that one's M11 and the other's M10 -- I don't know much about this stuff but is there a reason one bolt would be significantly easier/harder to torque than the other? I would have assumed they'd be about the same.

I absolutely agree that the 3/8" techangle is a *way* more useful tool to have around than the 1/2", but unless someone can tell me that it's obviously not hard to properly do the rod bearing torque sequence (on my back) with the 3/8" techangle, then I think I have to go 1/2" to cover my ass :/

[Cubieman]

Oh shit I was literally just about to pull the trigger on a 3/8" techangle. Really glad I read this. If leverage is the issue, what specs would make the 3/8" acceptable? I'm confused why the two different bolts would change whether or not the 3/8" has enough leverage?

I have only done the latter style bolts and forgot the specs on the other bolts. I swear I was puzzled, it felt like I was putting 100ft lbs worth of work into each bolt only to see the reading was ~50ft lbs. Must have something to do with the angle as I do wheel bolts all the time with a 3/8".

If you can get away with the 3/8" do it!
Getting the 1/2" will leave you with a less capable all around tool due to the size and the fact it won't go quite a low as the 3/8" will in regards to torque.

You might ask George Hill for his opinion.

[ATB88]

Edit: I just read you have the old bolts, check out the specs for each wrench, maybe you could use the 3/8ths, that thing is handy as hell.

The 1/2" techangle is a great option, unfortunately the 3/8" would be MUCH more useful for about anything else. I have the 3/8" techangle and plan to buy the 1/2" this winter when I do my RB's.

It's interesting that the final torque ends up about 55ft lbs (if I remember correctly that is) but yet it feels much more than that when doing the final angle.

I've done 2 M3's RB jobs on a lift and definitely wanted the extra leverage the 1/2" provides.

You might also get away with a quality breaker bar/dial or digi angle gauge but I tend to overthink and go overboard.

Oh shit I was literally just about to pull the trigger on a 3/8" techangle. Really glad I read this. If leverage is the issue, what specs would make the 3/8" acceptable? I'm confused why the two different bolts would change whether or not the 3/8" has enough leverage?

[Cubieman]

I think I'm finally getting around to rod bearings next weekend... I'm doing it on jackstands in the driveway. Anyone have a recommendation for a good high precision digital angle torque wrench to do it? I've got the old style rod bolts. I assume I want something with a flex head?

Edit: I just read you have the old bolts, check out the specs for each wrench, maybe you could use the 3/8ths, that thing is handy as hell.

The 1/2" techangle is a great option, unfortunately the 3/8" would be MUCH more useful for about anything else. I have the 3/8" techangle and plan to buy the 1/2" this winter when I do my RB's.

It's interesting that the final torque ends up about 55ft lbs (if I remember correctly that is) but yet it feels much more than that when doing the final angle.

I've done 2 M3's RB jobs on a lift and definitely wanted the extra leverage the 1/2" provides.

You might also get away with a quality breaker bar/dial or digi angle gauge but I tend to overthink and go overboard.

[ATB88]

I think I'm finally getting around to rod bearings next weekend... I'm doing it on jackstands in the driveway. Anyone have a recommendation for a good high precision digital angle torque wrench to do it? I've got the old style rod bolts. I assume I want something with a flex head?

[DJAM3]

I went ahead and installed the Rogue tranny mounts. So far so good during street driving. We'll see how it does when I do a track day next month. The difference in NVH vs the 75D mounts is night and day. The combo of 75D mounts and a steel SMF was pretty extreme. The Rogue mounts makes it sound almost stock again.

[Darbshaw]

I imagine most OEMs and engine builders would not recommend reusing an MLS head gasket after it has been installed.

In this thread (https://www.reddit.com/r/EngineBuild...an_mls_gasket/), they are saying not to reuse it if it has heat cycled.

Did you use factory head bolts or ARP studs? I'd be inclined to leave it as-is without the gasket maker if I used stock head bolts. There is a chance it won't leak.

For ARP, I'd consider getting another gasket as you can reuse the ARP hardware.

If you really, really don't want to do the job again, get a new headgasket and hardware (if not ARP).

It is shame to toss the new gasket, but rockauto does have the factory elring gasket for ~$50.

Wow I should have kept an eye out for rock auto in the future. That's a significant price jump from FCP's pricing.

I appreciate the advice, I have ARP and ended up buying another head gasket. Then that one came damaged in shipping lol. I cannot win with this car at the moment.

One thing I did notice is that the elring head gasket has its own piece of rubber gasket on the meeting point where it calls for gasket maker. So there is probably a chance that didn't leak.