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I noticed today--not sure how--that my driver side exterior door handle requires more travel compared to the passenger side to "open" the door. Is there an adjustment procedure for this? The passenger side "feels" better to me (tighter/crisper/less travel), but, I'll let sleeping dogs lie if I need to; the driver door opens just fine.Last edited by PSUEng; 09-07-2025, 03:18 PM.
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I have CMP subframe raising bushings and am replacing my diff and wondering if I must lower the S.F to get the diff out? My first guess would be yes..
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Can someone tell me how much the Mason Engineering rear X Brace was going for. I used wayback machine but the photos don’t load, and the item that’s got the most similar description was listed at $490.00
This is the product I’m talking about:
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I have not cleaned the drains on the M3, but I did recently clean them on a Toyota and I used 1/4" polyethylene tubing from Home Depot. <$5.00 for a 25' roll. I just fished it down the drains from up top. Worked great.Originally posted by Nate047 View PostWhat's the best way to clean the sunroof drains on these cars?
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Depends on what kind of failure you plan on havingOriginally posted by PSUEng View PostI replaced my original alternator 2yrs ago with a brand new Valeo unit; runs great so far. To "protect" against NLA parts and rising prices, is it more prudent to order a complete Valeo alternator and put on the shelf, or just get the voltage regulator kit as a spare? Of course, $100 for a VR vs. $270 or so for a complete unit.
Mine (a Valeo) developed an open circuit in one of the windings so those spares wouldn't be any use. Sure it's a less likely failure but still you're trying to predict the future really.
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Not sure how accessible they are, I have never looked on the M3.Originally posted by Nate047 View PostWhat's the best way to clean the sunroof drains on these cars?
A very long time ago my old Jeep sunroof drains clogged up, the only thing that worked well was compressed air. You just want to make sure you have some way of stepping down the air pressure.
You could use a shopvac that blows air and neck it down with tubing to the point you could insert it into the drains. I think I pulled the hard plastic tube off one of those cheapo fluid transfer pumps to get a small enough size to work with.
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My alternator recently failed during a track day at Road Atlanta and I was glad I had a new Valeo sitting on the shelf at home. I then disposed of the failed unit instead of repairing it, so I am asking myself the same question you are. It feels profligate, but I think I am going to do both. When the one in the car fails I will have a new replacement and parts to build another spare.Originally posted by PSUEng View PostI replaced my original alternator 2yrs ago with a brand new Valeo unit; runs great so far. To "protect" against NLA parts and rising prices, is it more prudent to order a complete Valeo alternator and put on the shelf, or just get the voltage regulator kit as a spare? Of course, $100 for a VR vs. $270 or so for a complete unit.
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I replaced my original alternator 2yrs ago with a brand new Valeo unit; runs great so far. To "protect" against NLA parts and rising prices, is it more prudent to order a complete Valeo alternator and put on the shelf, or just get the voltage regulator kit as a spare? Of course, $100 for a VR vs. $270 or so for a complete unit.
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Contact Ted directly if you haven't already. He helped me through my issue which resulted in updating to the latest HKA unit. Great guy to work with.Originally posted by Calb View PostI have a BlueBus issue. I installed my BlueBus 6 months ago and absolutely love it. The 5x turn signal is great. Last week there has been a buzzing sound that matches the engine revs. I have not done anything to the car and confused as to why this is happening.
TIA
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I am not an expert on this area but IIRC the EWS box can still go bad even if the EWS is "coded" out.Originally posted by bavarian3 View PostOn a car with EWS disabled in the dme/binary modification tool, could a bad key still be responsible for a intermittent no crank/no start ?
Last edited by jayjaya29; 08-28-2025, 04:56 AM.
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On a car with EWS disabled in the dme/binary modification tool, could a bad key still be responsible for a intermittent no crank/no start ?
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Originally posted by Nate047 View PostI'm putting my driveshaft back in and re-mounting my diff, I saw this in the torque spec PDF. Just looking to clarify what this means, and what order everything needs to be put in and torqued on the driveshaft, guibo, CSB, and all diff mounts.
Slide towards front of the car from its neutral position. pre loads the csb
This hasn't been discussed on this forum yet as far as I could find so I figure let's make a thread on it for future google searches. I am in the middle of my Vincebar install, rear end refresh, suspension overhaul job. One of the things I was trying to decide was whether to run the OE Diff paper gasket or use RTV gasketLast edited by oceansize; 08-24-2025, 06:47 PM.
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I'm putting my driveshaft back in and re-mounting my diff, I saw this in the torque spec PDF. Just looking to clarify what this means, and what order everything needs to be put in and torqued on the driveshaft, guibo, CSB, and all diff mounts.
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That may be a total mother to chase or hopefully you can be fortunate and find that it's simply a poor grounding issue. I'd suggest disconnecting and cleaning the battery cables and points where they mount to the car. If that doesn't help you can also try doing the same in the engine bay where the car is supposed to be jumped and/or connected to the battery tender. And if that doesn't work you can try the same with the alternator cables and mounting points. Lastly, see if it happens with and with the AC compressor running. I've been chasing a similar problem for years with my E36 which I completely replace the head unit, amp, and speakers with high-end stuff. Worked flawlessly for years than I get engine whine - but only periodically. For the life of me I can't remediate it.
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