Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[elrichmeister]

So remember to check your tires. Luckily i was checking mine before a car meet, i knew had a some inner tire wear, but didnt realize it was that bad.
The front tires lasted me from 3/2022 - till now which was about 32K miles which is an awesome for a PS4S i think?
I have some Stance branded coil overs from previous owner, it has camber plates but they seem to be maxed out to the positive camber, the top nut is pretty much at the limits on the strut tower.
Should i look into addressing the tire wear issue? Since the tires lasted as long, maybe its okay on its current setup?
I did get alignment recently on the front, tech mentioned that camber plates were maxed out, but its wear is at the edge of the tire so not sure if its something else.


Here are the pics:

[Slideways]

^ This.

If you do not foresee yourself replacing a certain part for the next 5-10 years or ever, save yourself $60 and get it from another vendor.

The E46 M3 coolant reservoir can easily go 10+ years. Luckily, it is not built into the radiator like the S50/M54. Mine is original

[IamFODI]

Since so many vendors have "lifetime warranty" and we are constantly facing more parts NLA, what good is this warranty? Example: I'm looking at getting a coolant reservoir. Spread between a "lifetime" warranty seller and another is nearly $60 for the Genuine BMW part. If this thing goes NLA, and I bought for the "lifetime" warranty, I lose $60. Potentially, unless I have a failure prior to NLA. What's everyone thinking nowadays with this increasing NLA situation?

I bought euro mirror glass from ECS on "lifetime warranty". They currently show NLA.. So where does that leave me if they need replacing?

Good question.

IDK about ECS, but I've seen and read that FCP Euro will do brand substitutions in that case, at least when possible. So, if you buy a genuine BMW part and it's NLA by the time you have to replace it, as long as there's an aftermarket version available by that time, it's a matter of a polite email exchange and they'll do the return/replacement.

Not sure what they'd do if there were no non-genuine alternative at all. But – knock on wood – I suspect that's not gonna be a likely/common scenario for cars like these.

[PSUEng]

Since so many vendors have "lifetime warranty" and we are constantly facing more parts NLA, what good is this warranty? Example: I'm looking at getting a coolant reservoir. Spread between a "lifetime" warranty seller and another is nearly $60 for the Genuine BMW part. If this thing goes NLA, and I bought for the "lifetime" warranty, I lose $60. Potentially, unless I have a failure prior to NLA. What's everyone thinking nowadays with this increasing NLA situation?

I bought euro mirror glass from ECS on "lifetime warranty". They currently show NLA.. So where does that leave me if they need replacing?

[Clive88]

CrisSilberGrau are your cams sold?

[bavarian3]

I'm about to replace the interior trims but dont want to cause any damage - what is the recommended toolset here?

which trim parts? plastic pry tools are good to have nevertheless

[bimmermh]

I'm about to replace the interior trims but dont want to cause any damage - what is the recommended toolset here?

[fattycharged]

I'd need a single of both the front and the rear… who can I reach out to? MCS directly?

Ya, I'd reach out them first. I'll shoot you a text


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[davidinnyc]

if you only need a single, you can, but I'd have the serial of the other for reference.


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I’d need a single of both the front and the rear… who can I reach out to? MCS directly?

[fattycharged]

Anyone know if I can purchase MCS 1WNR shocks / struts individually?

if you only need a single, you can, but I'd have the serial of the other for reference.


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[davidinnyc]

Anyone know if I can purchase MCS 1WNR shocks / struts individually?

[oceansize]

I have only seen this DIY'd while the diff is in the car. Maybe if the diff is mounted to the subframe while it is on the ground, but my guess is probably not.

Yes, assuming you don’t need to crush the pinion sleeve. Once it is crushed the torque to put the nut back on is not huge. Just make sure you mark it well so you can go back to the right settings.

when I did my diff I actually did this. I installed the diff with the drive shaft flange off and it was much easier to install, once bolted I used a large breaker bar to drive the nut back to the mark. You have to do this anyway as you preload the bearings without the seal.

Ok then, I'll take slideways idea and leave it attached to the subframe and give it a go. I really don't want to do it from under the car on quick jacks.

[maupineda]

Will I be able to replace the pinion shaft seal with the differential outside the car if I don't have a large bench vise?

Yes, assuming you don’t need to crush the pinion sleeve. Once it is crushed the torque to put the nut back on is not huge. Just make sure you mark it well so you can go back to the right settings.

when I did my diff I actually did this. I installed the diff with the drive shaft flange off and it was much easier to install, once bolted I used a large breaker bar to drive the nut back to the mark. You have to do this anyway as you preload the bearings without the seal.

[Slideways]

Will I be able to replace the pinion shaft seal with the differential outside the car if I don't have a large bench vise?

I have only seen this DIY'd while the diff is in the car. Maybe if the diff is mounted to the subframe while it is on the ground, but my guess is probably not.

[oceansize]

Will I be able to replace the pinion shaft seal with the differential outside the car if I don't have a large bench vise?