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  • elrichmeister
    replied
    Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
    I noticed today--not sure how--that my driver side exterior door handle requires more travel compared to the passenger side to "open" the door. Is there an adjustment procedure for this? The passenger side "feels" better to me (tighter/crisper/less travel), but, I'll let sleeping dogs lie if I need to; the driver door opens just fine.
    crazy just experienced the same thing but with the passenger door, interested to find out if there is some adjustment.

    Leave a comment:


  • CrisSilberGrau
    replied
    I have a set of Shrick 280/272 cams (manufactured late 2022, new polished lobes that force you to get rockers instead of the black nitride lobes of old) that are slightly damaged after install. I've documented this well in my build thread and as well on the Cam thread here on the forum (link to follow). While they are damaged, it is also minimal. Is there a point to put them up in the For Sale section for a heavily reduced price for someone to take on as a project or is this a lost cause? I'd be selling them for less than half what they were new in 2022 when I got them from Bimmerworld ($750 obo) and they'd come with the relief valve as well.

    If it's worth it please let me know.

    Leave a comment:


  • PSUEng
    replied
    I noticed today--not sure how--that my driver side exterior door handle requires more travel compared to the passenger side to "open" the door. Is there an adjustment procedure for this? The passenger side "feels" better to me (tighter/crisper/less travel), but, I'll let sleeping dogs lie if I need to; the driver door opens just fine.
    Last edited by PSUEng; 09-07-2025, 03:18 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    I have CMP subframe raising bushings and am replacing my diff and wondering if I must lower the S.F to get the diff out? My first guess would be yes..

    Leave a comment:


  • E46m3zcp
    replied
    Can someone tell me how much the Mason Engineering rear X Brace was going for. I used wayback machine but the photos don’t load, and the item that’s got the most similar description was listed at $490.00

    This is the product I’m talking about:
    Click image for larger version

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    ​​

    Leave a comment:


  • D-O
    replied
    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post
    What's the best way to clean the sunroof drains on these cars?
    I have not cleaned the drains on the M3, but I did recently clean them on a Toyota and I used 1/4" polyethylene tubing from Home Depot. <$5.00 for a 25' roll. I just fished it down the drains from up top. Worked great.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shonky
    replied
    Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
    I replaced my original alternator 2yrs ago with a brand new Valeo unit; runs great so far. To "protect" against NLA parts and rising prices, is it more prudent to order a complete Valeo alternator and put on the shelf, or just get the voltage regulator kit as a spare? Of course, $100 for a VR vs. $270 or so for a complete unit.
    Depends on what kind of failure you plan on having Mine (a Valeo) developed an open circuit in one of the windings so those spares wouldn't be any use. Sure it's a less likely failure but still you're trying to predict the future really.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post
    What's the best way to clean the sunroof drains on these cars?
    Not sure how accessible they are, I have never looked on the M3.
    A very long time ago my old Jeep sunroof drains clogged up, the only thing that worked well was compressed air. You just want to make sure you have some way of stepping down the air pressure.

    You could use a shopvac that blows air and neck it down with tubing to the point you could insert it into the drains. I think I pulled the hard plastic tube off one of those cheapo fluid transfer pumps to get a small enough size to work with.

    Leave a comment:


  • D-O
    replied
    Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
    I replaced my original alternator 2yrs ago with a brand new Valeo unit; runs great so far. To "protect" against NLA parts and rising prices, is it more prudent to order a complete Valeo alternator and put on the shelf, or just get the voltage regulator kit as a spare? Of course, $100 for a VR vs. $270 or so for a complete unit.
    My alternator recently failed during a track day at Road Atlanta and I was glad I had a new Valeo sitting on the shelf at home. I then disposed of the failed unit instead of repairing it, so I am asking myself the same question you are. It feels profligate, but I think I am going to do both. When the one in the car fails I will have a new replacement and parts to build another spare.

    Leave a comment:


  • PSUEng
    replied
    I replaced my original alternator 2yrs ago with a brand new Valeo unit; runs great so far. To "protect" against NLA parts and rising prices, is it more prudent to order a complete Valeo alternator and put on the shelf, or just get the voltage regulator kit as a spare? Of course, $100 for a VR vs. $270 or so for a complete unit.

    Leave a comment:


  • PSUEng
    replied
    Originally posted by Calb View Post
    I have a BlueBus issue. I installed my BlueBus 6 months ago and absolutely love it. The 5x turn signal is great. Last week there has been a buzzing sound that matches the engine revs. I have not done anything to the car and confused as to why this is happening.
    TIA
    Contact Ted directly if you haven't already. He helped me through my issue which resulted in updating to the latest HKA unit. Great guy to work with.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nate047
    replied
    What's the best way to clean the sunroof drains on these cars?

    Leave a comment:


  • jayjaya29
    replied
    Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
    On a car with EWS disabled in the dme/binary modification tool, could a bad key still be responsible for a intermittent no crank/no start ?
    I am not an expert on this area but IIRC the EWS box can still go bad even if the EWS is "coded" out.

    Last edited by jayjaya29; 08-28-2025, 04:56 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • bavarian3
    replied
    On a car with EWS disabled in the dme/binary modification tool, could a bad key still be responsible for a intermittent no crank/no start ?

    Leave a comment:


  • oceansize
    replied
    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post
    I'm putting my driveshaft back in and re-mounting my diff, I saw this in the torque spec PDF. Just looking to clarify what this means, and what order everything needs to be put in and torqued on the driveshaft, guibo, CSB, and all diff mounts.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Screenshot 2025-08-24 at 4.22.59 PM.png Views:	10 Size:	313.3 KB ID:	316554

    Slide towards front of the car from its neutral position. pre loads the csb

    This hasn't been discussed on this forum yet as far as I could find so I figure let's make a thread on it for future google searches. I am in the middle of my Vincebar install, rear end refresh, suspension overhaul job. One of the things I was trying to decide was whether to run the OE Diff paper gasket or use RTV gasket
    Last edited by oceansize; 08-24-2025, 06:47 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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