Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[jayjaya29]

Do torque marks work for removing and reinstalling a fastener at the same torque?

Why I ask:
I've made a bunch of changes to my ride height. I was thinking it wouldn't hurt to loosen and retorque any non-sperical control arm bushings at the new ride height. The rear upper control arms won't fit a torque wrench with the diff in place now, I was thinking what I just mark it as it's properly torqued now then refasten with a box wrench to the marking.

I would tighten just a little past the existing torque mark just to be sure.

[ugaexploder]

IMO I think the offset of stock rear wheel (+26) is perfect for 18x9. I'm on coilovers and ran 255/40 without any spacers.

thanks for the suggestion, just ordered another square set of wheels at 18x10, and thinking i might order a set of 18x9 to run them staggered and sell the other staggered set

[zzyzx85]

what offset would be ideal for a 18x9 wheel up front to run without spacers? have full adjustability with coils, camber plates, etc

IMO I think the offset of stock rear wheel (+26) is perfect for 18x9. I'm on coilovers and ran 255/40 without any spacers.

[bavarian3]

Do torque marks work for removing and reinstalling a fastener at the same torque?

Why I ask:
I've made a bunch of changes to my ride height. I was thinking it wouldn't hurt to loosen and retorque any non-sperical control arm bushings at the new ride height. The rear upper control arms won't fit a torque wrench with the diff in place now, I was thinking what I just mark it as it's properly torqued now then refasten with a box wrench to the marking.

[L0okitzRaj]

Same issue being that yours are cracked as well, or also have the creaking sounds too? Lmk what you end up replacing them with

cracking.

so this picture is from last year and probably after 50k (at least) of driving on these. After rethinking maybe yours are failing pretty fast if they are only a few years old. This was daily driving and a handful of track days.

You can see a crack developing.


overall the car has done 50k miles (realistically I think closer to 60-70ish) on these and don’t squeak. They did however squeak for the first 500 miles or so.

i probably will replace them soon with new units as i love the feel… compared to stock. Don’t remember how the poly ones did in comparison

[Keith_MN]

One of the two hood lock assemblies. You'll want to figure out how it broke off and probably get a new assembly before driving the car.

Amazing. Thank you!

[Slideways]

Can anyone identify this part? Dropped the belly pan for unrelated maintenance and found it sitting in there.

One of the two hood lock assemblies. You'll want to figure out how it broke off and probably get a new assembly before driving the car.

[Keith_MN]

Can anyone identify this part? Dropped the belly pan for unrelated maintenance and found it sitting in there.

[BigRussia]

I have the same issue on mine (not as bad), however mine are about 3-4 years old at least. I need to replace them fairly soon.

Same issue being that yours are cracked as well, or also have the creaking sounds too? Lmk what you end up replacing them with

[0-60motorsports]

Agreed, I just wondered if anyone had any insight into what this compound actually is and if it can be substituted for something else.
That said it's likely not worth the risk of having to redo a RMS job.

We always use the bmw stuff. I have never looked into any alternatives

[Cubieman]

Yes in theory you should

Agreed, I just wondered if anyone had any insight into what this compound actually is and if it can be substituted for something else.
That said it's likely not worth the risk of having to redo a RMS job.

[0-60motorsports]

Not really applicable to the E46 M3 but I haven't had any answers on the M5 boards.

The S85 (as does S65) has a bedplate that forms parting lines on either side of the F.M.S/R.M.S so when replacing these seals your are supposed to use a special prepping compound/adhesive.

It's about a $150 kit for the prepping compound,"sealant" syringe/needle/tool to push adhesive from syringe.

I did the FMS on my S85 recently and just smashed some Toyota FIPG into the parting lines and called it good.

I am now going do the RMS as part of a LW flywheel install but want to know just how important,or not, the use of the correct adhesive is.

Yes in theory you should

[L0okitzRaj]

Dont want to spam the dumb questions thread with my FCAB issue too much, but figured followup with pics of my findings. So; faulty install by my indy’s mechanics when doing the new LCAs last year (had the Turner FCAB installed by them prior that, ~2 years ago) OR had the FCAB just failed/broken?
Passengers:

Drivers:


Thing is i had seen that the passengers side had that crack right after the lca install but didnt think much of it… i didn't complain to the shop thinking it was just a superficial plastic outer piece and there was no noise or creaks at the time. I feel if it was broken before they did the lca install they would've said something.

Also I wasn't able to replicate the creaking sound with the front end in the air unfortunately.

I have the same issue on mine (not as bad), however mine are about 3-4 years old at least. I need to replace them fairly soon.

[Cubieman]

Not really applicable to the E46 M3 but I haven't had any answers on the M5 boards.

The S85 (as does S65) has a bedplate that forms parting lines on either side of the F.M.S/R.M.S so when replacing these seals your are supposed to use a special prepping compound/adhesive.

It's about a $150 kit for the prepping compound,"sealant" syringe/needle/tool to push adhesive from syringe.

I did the FMS on my S85 recently and just smashed some Toyota FIPG into the parting lines and called it good.

I am now going do the RMS as part of a LW flywheel install but want to know just how important,or not, the use of the correct adhesive is.

[ugaexploder]

what offset would be ideal for a 18x9 wheel up front to run without spacers? have full adjustability with coils, camber plates, etc