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  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
    If they have that green O-ring, that means they'd need to be replaced, yeah?
    Yes, TIS states to replace the entire plug. I have taken out the o-ring to measure it and it shouldn't be too difficult to find a bag of replacement o-rings.

    The older style plugs, which I kept in case I want to revert back, did use a crush washer, but realOEM no longer lists a part number for the crush washer for the E46. You have to go to an older model, like the E31, where they still have it on the diagram funny enough.

    Leave a comment:


  • sbay
    replied
    Any ideas on what to use to remove residue from cylinder walls?

    Leave a comment:


  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by bmwfnatic View Post

    The ones on older cars had a crush washer, the ones you buy now have a green o-ring.
    If they have that green O-ring, that means they'd need to be replaced, yeah?

    Leave a comment:


  • bmwfnatic
    replied
    Originally posted by BRiley View Post

    No crush washer then? Thank you so much!
    The ones on older cars had a crush washer, the ones you buy now have a green o-ring.

    Leave a comment:


  • BRiley
    replied
    Originally posted by Slideways View Post

    This is the case for the differential since they have built in o-rings. Transmission plugs are reusable and don't have a sealing ring.
    No crush washer then? Thank you so much!

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by BRiley View Post
    Dumb question on transmission fluid change. It seems that some websites / DIY's say you need to replace the transmission fill / drain plugs when changing fluid. Is that true? Why not just the crush washer?
    This is the case for the differential since they have built in o-rings. Transmission plugs are reusable and don't have a sealing ring.

    Leave a comment:


  • BRiley
    replied
    Dumb question on transmission fluid change. It seems that some websites / DIY's say you need to replace the transmission fill / drain plugs when changing fluid. Is that true? Why not just the crush washer?

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Right otherwise it won't stretch. They need tension.

    Or add loctite?
    Last edited by Tbonem3; 12-31-2024, 07:16 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jayjaya29
    replied
    Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
    Do torque marks work for removing and reinstalling a fastener at the same torque?

    Why I ask:
    I've made a bunch of changes to my ride height. I was thinking it wouldn't hurt to loosen and retorque any non-sperical control arm bushings at the new ride height. The rear upper control arms won't fit a torque wrench with the diff in place now, I was thinking what I just mark it as it's properly torqued now then refasten with a box wrench to the marking.
    I would tighten just a little past the existing torque mark just to be sure.

    Leave a comment:


  • ugaexploder
    replied
    Originally posted by zzyzx85 View Post

    IMO I think the offset of stock rear wheel (+26) is perfect for 18x9. I'm on coilovers and ran 255/40 without any spacers.
    thanks for the suggestion, just ordered another square set of wheels at 18x10, and thinking i might order a set of 18x9 to run them staggered and sell the other staggered set

    Leave a comment:


  • zzyzx85
    replied
    Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post
    what offset would be ideal for a 18x9 wheel up front to run without spacers? have full adjustability with coils, camber plates, etc
    IMO I think the offset of stock rear wheel (+26) is perfect for 18x9. I'm on coilovers and ran 255/40 without any spacers.

    Leave a comment:


  • bavarian3
    replied
    Do torque marks work for removing and reinstalling a fastener at the same torque?

    Why I ask:
    I've made a bunch of changes to my ride height. I was thinking it wouldn't hurt to loosen and retorque any non-sperical control arm bushings at the new ride height. The rear upper control arms won't fit a torque wrench with the diff in place now, I was thinking what I just mark it as it's properly torqued now then refasten with a box wrench to the marking.

    Leave a comment:


  • L0okitzRaj
    replied
    Originally posted by BigRussia View Post

    Same issue being that yours are cracked as well, or also have the creaking sounds too? Lmk what you end up replacing them with

    cracking.

    so this picture is from last year and probably after 50k (at least) of driving on these. After rethinking maybe yours are failing pretty fast if they are only a few years old. This was daily driving and a handful of track days.

    You can see a crack developing.


    overall the car has done 50k miles (realistically I think closer to 60-70ish) on these and don’t squeak. They did however squeak for the first 500 miles or so.

    i probably will replace them soon with new units as i love the feel… compared to stock. Don’t remember how the poly ones did in comparison
    Attached Files
    Last edited by L0okitzRaj; 12-26-2024, 05:18 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Keith_MN
    replied
    Originally posted by Slideways View Post

    One of the two hood lock assemblies. You'll want to figure out how it broke off and probably get a new assembly before driving the car.
    Amazing. Thank you!

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by Keith_MN View Post
    Can anyone identify this part? Dropped the belly pan for unrelated maintenance and found it sitting in there.
    One of the two hood lock assemblies. You'll want to figure out how it broke off and probably get a new assembly before driving the car.

    Leave a comment:

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