Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Bebop]

H&R did not make a good set of springs for this car. They give way too much of a drop up front without a comensurate amount of spring rate increase. The rear is pretty good. Then combine that with the harsh B6s (that need travel) adn you've got a bad combo. They switched up the b12 kit to go with Eibach springs later, which are much better.

Despite the harshness of bilstein, I still think b6s are better than koni yellows. Just need to get a set of Eibach or Dinan springs if you wish to keep that stock style of shock/spring combo. Or look at coilovers. I would suggest nothing cheaper than pss10 or kwv2s. Camber plates (GC or TMS street) would also give the b6 struts more travel up front which would improve things.

Thanks for the reply.
I have some GC street camber plates already installed. Probably should have mentioned that.
Unfortunately, coilovers aren't in the budget at the moment.
Mainly wondering if I should go with Eibach or Dinan...

[Tbonem3]

Is there a database of vehicle height depending on which shocks / springs combo is installed?

I've got some B6 / H&R on mine and the ride is awful, especially the front end. I live in TN, drive on backroads with less than stellar pavement etc and I don't want to deal with that.

I am trying to go back to a higher / more compliant setup and am wondering which direction to head towards.

After reading a whole bunch, I think the Dinan springs are what is the most recommended.
I also read the B6s are lifting the car over stock.
The current setup is about 13" in front, 13.25" in the rear. The rear is good and feels decent, so maybe I'm wondering about just swapping the front springs.
Has anyone tried that?

H&R did not make a good set of springs for this car. They give way too much of a drop up front without a comensurate amount of spring rate increase. The rear is pretty good. Then combine that with the harsh B6s (that need travel) adn you've got a bad combo. They switched up the b12 kit to go with Eibach springs later, which are much better.

Despite the harshness of bilstein, I still think b6s are better than koni yellows. Just need to get a set of Eibach or Dinan springs if you wish to keep that stock style of shock/spring combo. Or look at coilovers. I would suggest nothing cheaper than pss10 or kwv2s. Camber plates (GC or TMS street) would also give the b6 struts more travel up front which would improve things.

[Bebop]

Is there a database of vehicle height depending on which shocks / springs combo is installed?

I've got some B6 / H&R on mine and the ride is awful, especially the front end. I live in TN, drive on backroads with less than stellar pavement etc and I don't want to deal with that.

I am trying to go back to a higher / more compliant setup and am wondering which direction to head towards.

After reading a whole bunch, I think the Dinan springs are what is the most recommended.
I also read the B6s are lifting the car over stock.
The current setup is about 13" in front, 13.25" in the rear. The rear is good and feels decent, so maybe I'm wondering about just swapping the front springs.
Has anyone tried that?

[oceansize]

BMW gets those from Elring, so Elring is good for this part. Headgasket and VANOS gasket are also made by Elring.

Thank goodness, I don't mind spending money on my cars, but 40 bucks on tiny metal gaskets is crazy.

[Slideways]

The triangular exhaust manifold gaskets are now $40 each. No substitutes or is Elring ok in this instance? Seems in the past they were not ok.

BMW gets those from Elring, so Elring is good for this part. Headgasket and VANOS gasket are also made by Elring.

[Cubieman]

The triangular exhaust manifold gaskets are now $40 each. No substitutes or is Elring ok in this instance? Seems in the past they were not ok.

I have only ever used elring for the Sec. 1>2, never any issues. Have reused them once before as well and no leaks.

[oceansize]

The triangular exhaust manifold gaskets are now $40 each. No substitutes or is Elring ok in this instance? Seems in the past they were not ok.

[xansabi]

To the subframe. Part number 8 in the diagram below is the busing the bolt goes through.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1076

Wow, thank you!

[oceansize]

What is the diff's front mounting bolt attached to?

To the subframe. Part number 8 in the diagram below is the bushing the bolt goes through.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BR93-USA-04-2003-E46-BMW-M3&diagId=33_1076

[xansabi]

What is the diff's front mounting bolt attached to?

[davidinnyc]

Some new error codes yesterday. I hardly use the AC (drive with the windows down), but yesterday was especially hot and when I took one of the cars to pick up the kids from school in 95* temperatures, I tried to turn the AC on. Snowflake would illuminate and turn off immediately, and the air speed would be limited to 50%. Ambient air temperature reached 110*.

Plugged in the laptop and got these two codes:

24 Additional heater relay
Error frequency: 10
short circuit to batt+
Errorcode: 18010A2445C088510386

255 Energy saving mode active
Error frequency: 1
short circuit to ground
error present
Errorcode: FF42012489CF88510375

Anyone with a similar experience?

David

Cleared the first error, but the second still persists.

[PSUEng]

Looking to do a PS refresh soon and was shocked at the price of the Suction Hose - 32412229369. I see there is a URO part listed for a fraction of the part. Now I vowed to never put any URO parts on my car, but in this case would it be a terrible idea to cheap out on this?

$200!!! I replaced that along with the reservoir and feed hose for $250 in 2022! Wow. I'd consider running the URO, or call up a KOI parts house and see if you can have something fabricated. Surely another acceptable option exists. If I recall the hose material type is printed on the hose so that could be a starting point. The only thing you might run into is that, BMW click clamps may not fit. In that case, use a quality (ABA, or what FCP sells) worm drive clamp and it should be fine.

[davidinnyc]

Some new error codes yesterday. I hardly use the AC (drive with the windows down), but yesterday was especially hot and when I took one of the cars to pick up the kids from school in 95* temperatures, I tried to turn the AC on. Snowflake would illuminate and turn off immediately, and the air speed would be limited to 50%. Ambient air temperature reached 110*.

Plugged in the laptop and got these two codes:

24 Additional heater relay
Error frequency: 10
short circuit to batt+
Errorcode: 18010A2445C088510386

255 Energy saving mode active
Error frequency: 1
short circuit to ground
error present
Errorcode: FF42012489CF88510375

Anyone with a similar experience?

David

[prostcfc]

When adjusting the rebound on Ohlins R&T, is it right = stiff, left = loose?

So would you turn right all the way until it can't click anymore, then start clicking left?

Yes; turn to the right (clockwise) as far as it goes. Once it stops clicking, don't force it, ease back to the left (counterclockwise). The first detent it lands in is 0. Then each click counterclockwise is counting up.

[prostcfc]

Looking to do a PS refresh soon and was shocked at the price of the Suction Hose - 32412229369. I see there is a URO part listed for a fraction of the part. Now I vowed to never put any URO parts on my car, but in this case would it be a terrible idea to cheap out on this?

That's a tough one because $200 for an OEM hose is highway robbery. When the return line into my reservoir was leaking, I just cut it back a bit and got new Clic-R clamps; it's held fine. I also disconnected the suction hose at the reservoir and used a new clamp there as well. Basically if it's not leaking, I'd probably just keep using it as it's easy enough to change out later. If it is leaking, personally I'd go with the URO one and check in on it periodically.

FWIW I tried worm clamps and they just didn't work for me; only the Clic-R clamps gave even pressure to stop any drips.