Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[bagger]

I never looked at my fuel pump before, but was curious.

I'm going to guess based on the dirt it's original. Cleaned it up a bit more and it's a VDO with a blue top. Original most likely?

Also, if so, wait to get stranded or proactive replacement? Car is an 04 with 71k on it. I know there are a probably a billion threads on fuel pumps here that I can read based on the answer of replace or not.

Thanks.

[Keith_MN]

I’ll keep that in mind thanks 😂 hey I see you’re in Minneapolis too, maybe I’ll see you cruising around!

I'm in Minnetonka. Seen a few black E46 M3s around this side of town. If you get those headers & Sunbeam installed, I'll know it's you!

[Fitzy]

Lots of build threads out there with pictures of E46 track cars. Just saying...

I’ll keep that in mind thanks 😂 hey I see you’re in Minneapolis too, maybe I’ll see you cruising around!

[Keith_MN]

thanks. I guess not sure what will make my car look like a street car vs not unless they’re looking for something completely stripped. I’ll send in photos and see what he says. I didn’t think getting headers would be like purchasing a suppressor, damn.

Lots of build threads out there with pictures of E46 track cars. Just saying...

[Fitzy]

They will cancel the sale if your car is still a street car. They don't want to get dinged by the EPA for selling emission-altering components that will be used on the street, regardless if you live in a state where your car doesnt need emissions checks.

thanks. I guess not sure what will make my car look like a street car vs not unless they’re looking for something completely stripped. I’ll send in photos and see what he says. I didn’t think getting headers would be like purchasing a suppressor, damn.

[jayjaya29]

They will cancel the sale if your car is still a street car. They don't want to get dinged by the EPA for selling emission-altering components that will be used on the street, regardless if you live in a state where your car doesnt need emissions checks.

[Fitzy]

I ordered CPI single step headers from Bimmerworld last night. My plan is to mate those with the Sunbeam section 1. I got a message from a Sr. Sales Rep that they must be a race application only and need pictures of the front, rear, and interior of my car before they’re sent out. What’s up with this? Can I just send regular photos and go on about my purchase? I’m in MN, my car doesn’t get inspected. Also who’s to say my plan isn’t to get a catted section 1?

[Darbshaw]

Just had a check and confirmed:

- zero point adaption happens during the pre-drive check every time you start the car.
- 100% point adaption happens in the followup (period of time after the car is switched off after driving) if one of the following is true (virgin DME, EGAS/EDK adaptions cleared).

So yes - clear the EGAS/EDK adaptions and it should happen next time you turn the car off. (it can also be triggered over DS2, but clearing adaptions seems like an easier solution)


Also fwiw if you have an OBD2 cable you can use MSS54 DS2 Tool to both clear the adaptions and read the live values the DME is receiving from the pedal.

Thanks for this! I'll give it a run and see if this fixes it.

DS2 must be a newer one, I've never heard of it. My E46 M has been relatively trouble free Atleast for smaller issues like this. She's a track only car at this point so it's a pain in the butt to diagnose smaller issues like this.

I do have it registered, just driving a no ac gutted interior car isn't so appealing when I don't have to

[bavarian3]

Stamp shows 11.00, so November 2000

Under the electrical connector, it should have the week of the year and the year.

Not really in AI's wheelhouse.

Yikes. I had a feeling it was wrong. Thanks

[zzyzx85]

I've been struggling with an Autosolutions SSK installation. Finally got the shift arm carrier inside the transmission ears and it looks to me like it's 99% aligned but the pin won't go in. Any tips to get the last 1% adjustment?

I recently installed an Autosolutions SSK on my E30 and I used a big pair of channel lock pliers to force the pin through. I can't remember if I used the pliers as a lever against the tunnel or I actually squeezed the pin through the last tab with the pliers but they got it done. It was struggle trying to get the pin/clip in by hand.

[Slideways]

Can anyone tell what manufacturer date my pump is? Grok thinks it's a 2019 year

Stamp shows 11.00, so November 2000

Under the electrical connector, it should have the week of the year and the year.

Not really in AI's wheelhouse.

[bavarian3]

Can anyone tell what manufacturer date my pump is? Grok thinks it's a 2019 year

[karter16]

I haven't done the adaptation process for the new pedal yet.

Do you know the process for this? Or is it just resetting adaptations? (I'm going to google after posting)

I did test the wiring harness for proper voltage and ground. All the pins did their parts, so I'm ruling out wiring unless you all feel otherwise. I need to get real jumper pins so I can get the multimeter in the back end of the plug before I can test plugged in. I'll see what Amazon has to offer in the meantime

As for the EML itself. The light will be intermittent and then came back on today after a few minutes of idle.

Just had a check and confirmed:

- zero point adaption happens during the pre-drive check every time you start the car.
- 100% point adaption happens in the followup (period of time after the car is switched off after driving) if one of the following is true (virgin DME, EGAS/EDK adaptions cleared).

So yes - clear the EGAS/EDK adaptions and it should happen next time you turn the car off. (it can also be triggered over DS2, but clearing adaptions seems like an easier solution)


Also fwiw if you have an OBD2 cable you can use MSS54 DS2 Tool to both clear the adaptions and read the live values the DME is receiving from the pedal.

[Darbshaw]

The pedal has two position sensors in it, one that measures a 0-5V range and the other measures a 0-2.5V range. The DME compares the readings from the two to ensure that they both agree on the position of the pedal.

When you swapped the pedal did you do the adaption/learning process? as I think the DME has to learn the ranges the new pedal is reporting.

Second thing would be to look at the actual values the DME is seeing from those two sensors and see whether it's that they're not quite aligning, or no signal at all from one of them (could point to wiring issue), etc.

I haven't done the adaptation process for the new pedal yet.

Do you know the process for this? Or is it just resetting adaptations? (I'm going to google after posting)

I did test the wiring harness for proper voltage and ground. All the pins did their parts, so I'm ruling out wiring unless you all feel otherwise. I need to get real jumper pins so I can get the multimeter in the back end of the plug before I can test plugged in. I'll see what Amazon has to offer in the meantime

As for the EML itself. The light will be intermittent and then came back on today after a few minutes of idle.

[Keith_MN]

I'm at the point where I'm thinking about putting in a smaller pin and calling it good 😆

If it makes you feel better, I did struggle with it for quite a long time. I actually forgot, I did give the end of the pin some additional beveling in an effort to get it fully seated. Not sure if that helped, the lightbulb moment for me was that it popped in when I torqued the pin at an angle more than I expected. A little grease always helps too.