Originally posted by BigRussia
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I guess it's possible that what you saw was a mild wear spike due to Red Line's aggressive chemistry and it'd go away after a bit. I wouldn't personally take that chance, but it does give us a reason to give BW the benefit of the doubt on this. Either way, for whatever my opinion's worth, I can't blame you for taking their reco.
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Haha yup, I’m not too worried since I figure yeah maybe it’s the Redline oil. Now if on the next report being back on LM trends like this I’d really start worrying/planning for RB service.Originally posted by IamFODI View PostI personally wouldn't go changing rod bearings immediately based on this, but I sure as hell would have done what you did, i.e. go back to the oil that was producing good reports. This may have been a case of fixing what ain't broke.
Was your usage similar on LM 10W-60, though?
Yup exact same use on the LiquiMoly GT1 10W-60, I was doing the same amount of track days on the previous LM fills/oa reports; they're the 2023 and 2022 reports on there (even having more mileage on the 2023 fill). Only reason I switched away from LM was cause of reading Bimmerworld’s tech articles and them recommending the RL 15w50 for S54’s that see some track time :/
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I personally wouldn't go changing rod bearings immediately based on this, but I sure as hell would have done what you did, i.e. go back to the oil that was producing good reports. This may have been a case of fixing what ain't broke.Originally posted by BigRussia View PostDo we still have a running/active Blackstone Oil Analysis thread? I tried looking for it as didn't want to create yet another oil thread lol.
I just got my report back and both tin and lead are higher now after running Redline 15w50 for two fills with mostly track and HPDE use
So now wondering if its already time again for another rod bearing job.. they were changed with OEM ~16k miles ago. Last report (first fill of trying RL 15w50) BS noted Tin was higher, while all my previous reports w LM 10w60 were glowing and engine was wearing good according to them. Im now currently back on LM 10w60.
Was your usage similar on LM 10W-60, though?
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Do we still have a running/active Blackstone Oil Analysis thread? I tried looking for it as didn't want to create yet another oil thread lol.
I just got my report back and both tin and lead are higher now after running Redline 15w50 for two fills with mostly track and HPDE use
So now wondering if its already time again for another rod bearing job.. they were changed with OEM ~16k miles ago. Last report (first fill of trying RL 15w50) BS noted Tin was higher, while all my previous reports w LM 10w60 were glowing and engine was wearing good according to them. Im now currently back on LM 10w60.
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Check for damaged pins on the OBD port; otherwise, it could be caused by a bad steering angle sensor - https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...ad-me.1284285/Originally posted by CrisSilberGrau View PostIm having a very frustrating issue where I cannot get my car to scan and/or be read on a scanner. I've used every scanner even very expensive Autel Maxisys ones with the same outcome: no link/connection/communication. Whats the best way to get this fixed? Can this be caused by a module refusing to link/communicate with the scanner?
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Im having a very frustrating issue where I cannot get my car to scan and/or be read on a scanner. I've used every scanner even very expensive Autel Maxisys ones with the same outcome: no link/connection/communication. Whats the best way to get this fixed? Can this be caused by a module refusing to link/communicate with the scanner?
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So - I installed CSL headers and CSL Section 2, but because I wanted to figure out how to extend O2 sensors instead of cutting up the sensor wiring in the harness I left US Section 1 with the resonator.
My dumb question: if I put on the CSL section 1 and don’t plug in O2 and EGT sensors to the DME, will the cats get damaged? I thought I’d be ok running catless for a while but the smell is awful.
I plan to plug in the O2 and EGT sensors into their respective Section 1 bungs and just keep them tied up for now, but wanted to see if I’d cause any harm to the cats.
Thanks in advance.Last edited by davidinnyc; 04-19-2025, 04:50 PM.
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How do I determine the "code" to my factory wheel lock? I want to order a spare key.
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Hello everyone! I’m trying to post on the marketplace, but I can’t because I’m a (new) member I’m guessing. My question is how long before I can buy and post WTB?
I couldn’t find information on the wait period. I’m not totally new ig since I was a member on the defunct M3 forum.
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I do need to check it again with everything in place, but it was the rear two holes. There was also a problem with the front two but I can't remember exactly what it was.Originally posted by karter16 View Post
Which ones aren't aligned? Is it the 4 RACP points or the RSM points? I’d definitely wait till the car is on the ground and loaded to work out what needs to be adjusted
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Which ones aren't aligned? Is it the 4 RACP points or the RSM points? I’d definitely wait till the car is on the ground and loaded to work out what needs to be adjustedOriginally posted by Nate047 View Post
Mannnnn. The spacers are wrong, the holes are wrong, gotta love it.
I'm going to have to over drill the holes a little I think. I can't just force it over the threads on those bolts.
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Mannnnn. The spacers are wrong, the holes are wrong, gotta love it.Originally posted by karter16 View Post
I don't have any photos of the spacers I received but basically exactly the same thing but thinner (same thickness as the hex).
Re fitment - mine was absolutely perfect. Did a check with the car in the air (without removing the nuts on the RSMs) and it seemed fine and then installed for real on the ground - dropped straight in. I have heard of others needing to apply some leverage to get fitment (rear strut bars in general, not Yurkan specifically) so maybe depends a bit on individual chassis and whether it's moved at all over time?
I think you’ll love it once you’re done - I couldn’t believe the amount of difference it made to my car.
I’m going to have to over drill the holes a little I think. I can’t just force it over the threads on those bolts.
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