Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[bagger]

Flame suit on here, but I encountered the same problem on my brake job until I pulled the pins, threw some Toyota lithium soap grease on them and put them back in. I know I know...TIS says "no grease", but the guide pin "servicing" which I believe also includes replacement of the rubber pin bushings is recommended every 4yrs from what I read. So, that was how I fixed it on my totally stock setup with new ATE guide bushings. FWIW, the owner of a local bmw shop in my town also "lubed" them, with what, I don't know, but he didn't put them in dry. Some guys run them dry, no problem. Anyway, maybe give that shot.

Thanks. I did put some grease on the pins as well. The rubber looks fine but it's who knows how old those are. Replacement calipers coming tomorrow hopefully. My main concern was mainly "do these pads look normal after 50-100 miles" -- or did I somehow toast them and have to get new ones.

I'll probably just throw them back on with the fresh calipers and see how they look in a couple months before my car goes into hibernation in the Midwest.

[PSUEng]

I'm chasing down a "pulls to the right issue". I had an alignment done last year, it's not the slant of the road, and I just changed my FCABs (not the entire control arm -- yet). I still have the issue, especially under harder braking.

Flame suit on here, but I encountered the same problem on my brake job until I pulled the pins, threw some Toyota lithium soap grease on them and put them back in. I know I know...TIS says "no grease", but the guide pin "servicing" which I believe also includes replacement of the rubber pin bushings is recommended every 4yrs from what I read. So, that was how I fixed it on my totally stock setup with new ATE guide bushings. FWIW, the owner of a local bmw shop in my town also "lubed" them, with what, I don't know, but he didn't put them in dry. Some guys run them dry, no problem. Anyway, maybe give that shot.

[bagger]

The pics on the right are from the suspect caliper, right? They look a bit glazed. Could just be the lighting.

Thanks and good eye. It is the lighting (flash went on) but those are the front right ones and they are indeed a bit glazed compared to the rest. Pretty sure that caliper is a sticky one.

But just wondering if I somehow jacked up my brand new pads since they look so chewed up on the ends. Maybe I didn't do a good enough job cleaning up those parts of the caliper with a wire brush or something.

There is a white ring on the inner part of all four rotors where the pads are all making (the most?) contact. The pads on all four corners seems to "touch" there more on the inner ring of the rotors - it doesn't look like the entire pad is "flush" against the rotor when the car is at rest.

[IamFODI]

So next up on the suspect list is a sticky caliper. The right front wheel seems a lot hotter and smellier after short rides.

Yep, def. sounds like a stuck caliper.

Like I said, probably only 50-100 miles on these pads, so not sure if they still need to break in or whatever

AFAIK, break-in is about pad material getting onto the rotor, not the pad material itself breaking in.

The pics on the right are from the suspect caliper, right? They look a bit glazed. Could just be the lighting.

[bagger]

I'm chasing down a "pulls to the right issue". I had an alignment done last year, it's not the slant of the road, and I just changed my FCABs (not the entire control arm -- yet). I still have the issue, especially under harder braking. So next up on the suspect list is a sticky caliper. The right front wheel seems a lot hotter and smellier after short rides. I just changed the rotors and pads like 50-100 miles ago. I got the fcpeuro kit of zimmerman rotors and Textra OE pads and did all four corners. I'm picking up the rebuilt (and powder coated!) calipers this week and in prep I got the car in the air and took everything apart. Does this brake pad wear look normal? Like I said, probably only 50-100 miles on these pads, so not sure if they still need to break in or whatever - but it seemed odd to me and this is the first brake job on my m3. Looks like some of the ends are "chewed up". Attached are pictures of all four corners. Is this normal? Thanks!

[E46m3zcp]

Ok! The mechanic I brought it to extended it well beyond (about 2cm) the caution mark. I suspect this is the cause of the noise. I found from the Ohlins manual that "The bracket shall not be adjusted below the caution line as it may come loose or break." I am currently thinking about what that means. Is "the bracket" the golden thing? So if mine were loose or broken it would be obvious? Or should I suspect something internal is broken?

[Slideways]

What is the purpose of this ring on the rear shocks of the Ohlins Road and Track?

I'm trying to figure out a clunk on bumps - a mechanic seems to have messed with this ring and I'm questioning if the origin of the problem could have anything to do with it.

That ring allows you to unlock the lower portion (gold) and adjust the length of the damper.

For the Ohlins, make sure the orientation of the rear spring has the lettering facing out of the wheel well.

[E46m3zcp]

What is the purpose of this ring on the rear shocks of the Ohlins Road and Track?

I'm trying to figure out a clunk on bumps - a mechanic seems to have messed with this ring and I'm questioning if the origin of the problem could have anything to do with it.



All I can find in the Ohlins manual is that it's a lock ring to adjust the length, but there isn't much being said about it and how to use it properly:

[Slideways]

Quick sanity check: From what I can tell (visually), the Left/Right inner tie rods are the same; only the outers are different (LH/RH). Am I correct?

Correct

[PSUEng]

Quick sanity check: From what I can tell (visually), the Left/Right inner tie rods are the same; only the outers are different (LH/RH). Am I correct?

[Shonky]

This is going to sound dumb but have you checked that you actually have refrigerant in the system? It sounds like it's running, it's just not cooling


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Clutch won't engage if there's no pressure in system. If all the gas has leaked it won't engage.

[Darbshaw]

welp, the AC went out during my weekly drive. Had AC for the first 20 minutes and it quit half way through.

I've checked the AC fuses (28, 62, 63) and they're good. AC clutch engages and stays engaged until I turn off the AC button.

Any thing else I should look at?

This is going to sound dumb but have you checked that you actually have refrigerant in the system? It sounds like it's running, it's just not cooling


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[Slideways]

Good idea, I can try that. So, I assume you would suggest just go Magnetti on the corners, since it seems they may be making the Genuine parts now?

On ECS's site, you can see pictures for both and the identification stickers are the same, just one with the BMW logo and one without.

[PSUEng]

It looks like all the new ones, genuine or Magnetti, are made by AL Automotive and made in Czech Republic. You can try to run a bead of sealant around the backside where the lens meets the body of the corner light. That's usually where the water gets in. It would be a shame to throw those out since they are brand new.

Good idea, I can try that. So, I assume you would suggest just go Magnetti on the corners, since it seems they may be making the Genuine parts now?

[Slideways]

My replacement side marker turn signals (Magnetti Marelli) are now showing evidence of moisture intrusion, something my original parts never did but I replaced the originals due to yellowing of the lenses a few years back. And, I need to replace the front corner turn signal assemblies due to yellowing. I"m tempted to forgo the Magnetti brand, and go straight Genuine and just pay the price but curious what others have done here. Genuine, or Magnetti? My original front corner lamps say "BOSCH" and my original side flashers don't say who made them, as far as I can tell. I don't want to buy stuff twice, and it looks like that's the case with these side turns.

It looks like all the new ones, genuine or Magnetti, are made by AL Automotive and made in Czech Republic. You can try to run a bead of sealant around the backside where the lens meets the body of the corner light. That's usually where the water gets in. It would be a shame to throw those out since they are brand new.