Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Cubieman]

Anyone running the R.E oil return line? Wanted see to if anyone had run into any issues with this product.

I see and feel that my line has a slight kink in the braided portion. I really don't feel like removing the headers to install a new OEM line so that's why the Rouge line is of interest to me.

[Cronenberged]

18x9.5 et35 can be run with no camber, anymore offset then that you start requiring it. I am running the Arc 8s in that square set up. I would say a sq set of e88s near the same set up would look really good. You could push 18x9s to around et25-30 to have similar look as the 18x9.5 just run a spacer in the rear. I only have a 12mm spacer in the rear of my car so the rear looks flush like the front. ugaexploder

[ugaexploder]

Do you have a big brake kit? I’m also not familiar either e88s clearances

i do plan on putting st40’s front and back in the future but currently running stock brakes.

yeah, i currently have a 18x9.5 square setup which looks good but running 5mm and 12mm spacers on some cheap BW wheels on 265 re71rs.

eventually i want to throw on the e88 i bought from schirmer but they are the 18x10 21.5et, not sure if i like the fronts sticking out like they do on the 18x10 setups ive seen. figured i’d buy some inner/outers to change the width/offset just in case since its relatively cheap. thanks again man

[Cronenberged]

out of the bottom 2, which one do you think would be better without spacers? appreciate your recommendation

Probably 18x9 34.5et (1” lip) as it’s the least aggressive for street driving. I’m personally a fan of square set up because rotations, and symmetry of wheels looking the same.

[Cronenberged]

Do you have a big brake kit? I’m also not familiar either e88s clearances

[ugaexploder]

18x9.5 - 28et (1.5” lip) - aggressive, requires a lot camber for a street car. I personally would not run it, but to each their own.

18x9 - 21.5et (1.5” lip)
18x9 34.5et (1” lip)
- these are the two options I would consider, just depends how much lip you want. ugaexploder

out of the bottom 2, which one do you think would be better without spacers? appreciate your recommendation

[Cronenberged]

18x9.5 - 28et (1.5” lip) - aggressive, requires a lot camber for a street car. I personally would not run it, but to each their own.

18x9 - 21.5et (1.5” lip)
18x9 34.5et (1” lip)
- these are the two options I would consider, just depends how much lip you want. ugaexploder

[ugaexploder]

what offset/wheel width would you guys run for fronts out of the choices below for e88? for street application

18x9.5 - 28et (1.5” lip)
18x9 - 21.5et (1.5” lip)
18x9 34.5et (1” lip)

[Cubieman]

Are we still doing the painted reflectors in the front bumper? Some days, the amber are an eye sore, but I also think to keep it original. I have to get the clear film removed from my bumper and if the paint flakes, I'll just go get a euro bumper I guess. But if it doesn't, painted reflector inserts, or no?

I liked the painted reflectors the P.O put on my original bumper, since have a Euro bumper, but only because the original got a crack in it. The stock bumper with painted reflectors is a good compromise before shelling out for a Euro.

[PSUEng]

Are we still doing the painted reflectors in the front bumper? Some days, the amber are an eye sore, but I also think to keep it original. I have to get the clear film removed from my bumper and if the paint flakes, I'll just go get a euro bumper I guess. But if it doesn't, painted reflector inserts, or no?

[fattycharged]

Should I be concerned about just firing it up after the engine sitting for close to 2 years....I realize the fuel could be an issue, but the tank is pretty much empty, so my plan was to just crank it with the ignition and no fuel to prime the oil pump and then start it up, but I've never let an engine sit this long.

[karter16]

Yes, I've used the ecuworxs tool, and it does allow for that, on e9x as well. Just curious, trying to learn more about coding, thanks.

Yeah absolutely - it's great to get into it and understand what's going on behind the scenes. If you have other questions or would find a “how to get started” guide or something useful I'd be happy to help :-)


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[Tbonem3]

This thread (https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...me-information) is a good place to start. Essentially once you've got the the partial read off you can check a known memory location with a hex editor to get the version.

To quote that post: "Version Information is taken from the .0DA binary itself, 0x7FB8 for the MSS54, and 0xBFB8 for the MSS54HP, and is 56 bytes long".

If you want an easier way to do it I *think* that the ECUWorx tool lets you check the throttle curves.

Yes, I've used the ecuworxs tool, and it does allow for that, on e9x as well. Just curious, trying to learn more about coding, thanks.

[karter16]

Yes, that's what I'm feeling. Imola Red has the stock CSL tune + airbox and feels less responsive under 4K RPMs and if I “blip” the pedal I don't get that snappy, torque-y response with the sport button on like I do with the stock Jet Black.

I'm plugging in both cars tonight when I have a moment to check the curves! Thank you for the steps!

I think that's probably the result of running the stock CSL tune. With standard cams and exhaust valves the stock CSL tune isn't great for drivability and suffers from what you're describing. I noticed a big difference between stock CSL and where I ended up with my tune after a few revisions (I have built my own tune along similar lines to what Bryson has done).


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[davidinnyc]

curves are the same between my stock euro tune (1901) and stock CSL tune (0401).

1901


0401


I'd say it would be worth checking the tune on your Jet Black to see if the curve has been modified at all. I presume too that you're saying it's the sport map specifically that feels flat on the Imola? e.g. if you're running a stock CSL tune on a normal S54 with just a CSL airbox the throttle is going to feel less responsive and torque-y either way down low - could that be some of it?

To check the tune on your jet black you'd need to read off a partial (tune) and then open it in TunerPro using the correct XDF for whatever version of the software is on your DME. The curve you're looking for is KL_PWG_SOLL_SPORT as in my screenshot above.

Yes, that’s what I’m feeling. Imola Red has the stock CSL tune + airbox and feels less responsive under 4K RPMs and if I “blip” the pedal I don’t get that snappy, torque-y response with the sport button on like I do with the stock Jet Black.

I’m plugging in both cars tonight when I have a moment to check the curves! Thank you for the steps!