Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[zzyzx85]

welp, the AC went out during my weekly drive. Had AC for the first 20 minutes and it quit half way through.

I've checked the AC fuses (28, 62, 63) and they're good. AC clutch engages and stays engaged until I turn off the AC button.

Any thing else I should look at?

[PSUEng]

My replacement side marker turn signals (Magnetti Marelli) are now showing evidence of moisture intrusion, something my original parts never did but I replaced the originals due to yellowing of the lenses a few years back. And, I need to replace the front corner turn signal assemblies due to yellowing. I"m tempted to forgo the Magnetti brand, and go straight Genuine and just pay the price but curious what others have done here. Genuine, or Magnetti? My original front corner lamps say "BOSCH" and my original side flashers don't say who made them, as far as I can tell. I don't want to buy stuff twice, and it looks like that's the case with these side turns.

[jayjaya29]

I dont want to give away core4's documentation freely but 100ftlbs, even on thread in studs, is fine. +1 if you put antisieze on the conical seat of the lug nuts

[SQ13]

Whats the spec you're torqueing them down to? Core4 suggests 100 ft-lbs is the correct torque spec for this application.

Core4 specs might be different since the studs are pressed in. I have the standard thread in MSH studs. The spec for those is “factory torque or 90 lb-ft,” and I’ve been torquing to 85.

[jayjaya29]

I have fairly new Motorsport Hardware wheel studs on the car with zero track time. The body shop torqued them to 100-110 lb-ft even after I gave them the correct torque spec. Do y'all think it’s necessary to replace them, or would it be okay to continue running them? I’m just worried about the studs cracking, especially on track. MSH never responded to my email lol.

Edit: Idk if it matters, but the car was not driven after they were overtorqued. I retorqued to the correct spec before leaving the shop.

Whats the spec you're torqueing them down to? Core4 suggests 100 ft-lbs is the correct torque spec for this application.

[Darbshaw]

So I tried to thin the wiring harness down on the track car this summer. The lazy, albeit harder way by just snipping and checking. I know it's better just to pull and redo the harness out of the car. This was just a fitting add on task.

I made it out pretty painlessly but I have 2 issues.
1) No speedometer
2) Coolant light on (coolant is good level)

Not too worried about the coolant light right now, but the speedometer I'm trying to get fixed.

Every other system in the car (checked with inpa) is showing a speed signal from all 4 corners. DSC & SMG modules. Along with no related error codes from either one. So I would assume it's a kbus communication error to the cluster.

Looking at the wiring diagrams, pin 14 on X11175 is the kbus signal. When I depin 14 on the plug I get a can error in the control module but no more visible error lights.

Before I go and cut to connect a jumper/ rewire pin 14 to the kbus hub, does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this?


Edit: Sorry everything I was referring to as can is actually K-Bus
Edit: found the pinout chart again. Pin 8 is likely, but I’m struggling to find out how the wiring works on this one. It looks like this is just a wire from the hub to the dash and then a ground

[nuc1]

You have way more experience than me with this, but just to add another data point. I used the luk plastic alignment tool and my transmission went right in first try as well.

That’s good news to me. I’ll give it a whirl when everything gets here.

Mike

[George Hill]

You have way more experience than me with this, but just to add another data point. I used the luk plastic alignment tool and my transmission went right in first try as well.

Thanks for your note, I should have articulated better that my experience with the LuK alignment tool may not be norm and could be just a one off.

[heinzboehmer]

I have the BMW genuine alignment tool, I don't think I've ever used the plastic tool with the kit. Scratch that I had a buddy who was doing a 420g conversion in his touring and he could not get the trans on using the LuK alignment tool. I came over with my tool, we reset everything using mine and the trans went right on first try. YMMV.

You have way more experience than me with this, but just to add another data point. I used the luk plastic alignment tool and my transmission went right in first try as well.

[nuc1]

I don't have any experience with the Sachs kit specifically, I've always used the LuK kit. I use the Pressure plate, disc and TOB. I ONLY use a genuine BMW pilot bearing.

I have the BMW genuine alignment tool, I don't think I've ever used the plastic tool with the kit. Scratch that I had a buddy who was doing a 420g conversion in his touring and he could not get the trans on using the LuK alignment tool. I came over with my tool, we reset everything using mine and the trans went right on first try. YMMV.

That's some good info. Looks like I'm buying a tool to use one time only....

Mike

[George Hill]

I'm going to order the Sachs clutch kit. It comes with the pressure plate, TOB and clutch disc but no alignment tool. The Luk kit comes with the pressure plate, TOB, clutch disc, alignment tool and pilot bearing. All my reading here says to absolutely buy the OE pilot bearing and do NOT use the Luk pilot bearing.

I don't have any experience with the Sachs kit specifically, I've always used the LuK kit. I use the Pressure plate, disc and TOB. I ONLY use a genuine BMW pilot bearing.

My question is: do I absolutely need the screw-type alignment tool in the Luk kit and as discussed here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...3761#post13761Mike

I have the BMW genuine alignment tool, I don't think I've ever used the plastic tool with the kit. Scratch that I had a buddy who was doing a 420g conversion in his touring and he could not get the trans on using the LuK alignment tool. I came over with my tool, we reset everything using mine and the trans went right on first try. YMMV.

[nuc1]

I would replace the fork and the TOB guide tube, spring clip you should be able to reuse.

Thanks again for that. One (maybe) last question:
I'm going to order the Sachs clutch kit. It comes with the pressure plate, TOB and clutch disc but no alignment tool. The Luk kit comes with the pressure plate, TOB, clutch disc, alignment tool and pilot bearing. All my reading here says to absolutely buy the OE pilot bearing and do NOT use the Luk pilot bearing. My question is: do I absolutely need the screw-type alignment tool in the Luk kit and as discussed here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...3761#post13761

Cause its damn expensive for something I'll only use once. And I already have the alignment tool with the loop at the end.

Mike

[SQ13]

I have fairly new Motorsport Hardware wheel studs on the car with zero track time. The body shop torqued them to 100-110 lb-ft even after I gave them the correct torque spec. Do y'all think it’s necessary to replace them, or would it be okay to continue running them? I’m just worried about the studs cracking, especially on track. MSH never responded to my email lol.

Edit: Idk if it matters, but the car was not driven after they were overtorqued. I retorqued to the correct spec before leaving the shop.

[George Hill]

Any need to replace the clutch fork and spring clip "while I'm in there"

I would replace the fork and the TOB guide tube, spring clip you should be able to reuse.

[nuc1]

SPEC clutch? Throw that thing in the trash, if you are N/A get a stock clutch kit. IF the flywheel isn't grooved its likely fine.

FTE slaves are cheap, but if the current one looks fine reassembling it shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks George! Car is N/A - going with Luk clutch kit plus OE pilot bearing. Any need to replace the clutch fork and spring clip "while I'm in there"? Already have a metal pivot pin.

Mike