Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[E46m3zcp]

Pick up a used section 1. They are about 50 bucks.

really? I would if I found one. I didn’t find any for 50 bucks so far and I need both 1 and 2, as both ends flared ends are f*cked (though I did find a matching size piece of flared pipe for section 2)

[Slideways]

I removed my exhaust and the flange on section 1 at the header broke due to rust. I don't want to upgrade my exhaust now, I'd just like to fix it and put it back on. It's too rusty to just weld, I am thinking of cutting the pipe and welding a piece of pipe with a compatible flange (the rest of the exhaust has less corrosion and is still usable).

I've looked on Amazon, Summit, a couple other places and couldn't find a flange repair tube that matched the diameter of that pipe.
The OD of the header pipe that goes into this one is 2.5in, so I'd need a flange repair with an ID of 2.5in, anyone has done this repair before? What have you used?

Pick up a used section 1. They are about 50 bucks.

[E46m3zcp]

I removed my exhaust and the flange on section 1 at the header broke due to rust. I don't want to upgrade my exhaust now, I'd just like to fix it and put it back on. It's too rusty to just weld, I am thinking of cutting the pipe and welding a piece of pipe with a compatible flange (the rest of the exhaust has less corrosion and is still usable).

I've looked on Amazon, Summit, a couple other places and couldn't find a flange repair tube that matched the diameter of that pipe.
The OD of the header pipe that goes into this one is 2.5in, so I'd need a flange repair with an ID of 2.5in, anyone has done this repair before? What have you used?

[Slideways]

If I do the stock to 996 caliper conversion, do I need the ZCP bracket along with the 996 conversion bracket? Or just the new conversion bracket?

No, only the conversion bracket is needed.

[dHam_Slow.46M]

If I do the stock to 996 caliper conversion, do I need the ZCP bracket along with the 996 conversion bracket? Or just the new conversion bracket?

[PSUEng]

Generally when I hear a squeak like that its fixed by replacing the pressure plate or TOB (clutch kit). I've personally never seen an M/C or S/C cause a squeak.

Thanks George, I also suspected those but I don't have experience with the clutch system. Thank you!

[maupineda]

Yes, they are expensive. but also quite effective, if anything, the repaired joint will be stronger.

[jdamore44]

IMO the only "correct" repair here is with a TimeSert

I have all the sizes on hand and have never had one fail. In fact I just stuck (2) into an M62tu yesterday to repair the threads for a vanos solenoid gasket. Super easy to use especially with the part off the car.

Damn those things are spendy! I appreciate your feedback. I'll order one today!

[maupineda]

Hi guys.
Went to do my Beisan-vanos overhaul and the stud came out while removing the valve cover. What also came out was the threads. :/. I'm looking for advice for repair. I'm at work and forgot to bring the stud with me. I know that this is a M7x32 based on the parts diagram.
Can anyone lead me to a direction for a recommended thread repair? Heli-coil? EZ-lok? I know this is a through hole, so that may be a factor? ** Also, the vanos is on the bench, so I will have no problems with metal shavings.

Thanks for the help!

Prime Day! Would this work? https://a.co/d/hqpZuts

I would to timesert if there is space for it.

[George Hill]

:/. I'm looking for advice for repair. I'm at work and forgot to bring the stud with me.

IMO the only "correct" repair here is with a TimeSert

I have all the sizes on hand and have never had one fail. In fact I just stuck (2) into an M62tu yesterday to repair the threads for a vanos solenoid gasket. Super easy to use especially with the part off the car.

[George Hill]

When I push the clutch pedal in, engine running or off, I hear a squeak.

I have the same squeek. For what it is worth, my slave cylinder has only 24k on it, and I believe the noise has been present for quite a while. I am in for insight as well.

Generally when I hear a squeak like that its fixed by replacing the pressure plate or TOB (clutch kit). I've personally never seen an M/C or S/C cause a squeak.

[jdamore44]

Hi guys.
Went to do my Beisan-vanos overhaul and the stud came out while removing the valve cover. What also came out was the threads. :/. I'm looking for advice for repair. I'm at work and forgot to bring the stud with me. I know that this is a M7x32 based on the parts diagram.
Can anyone lead me to a direction for a recommended thread repair? Heli-coil? EZ-lok? I know this is a through hole, so that may be a factor? ** Also, the vanos is on the bench, so I will have no problems with metal shavings.

Thanks for the help!

Prime Day! Would this work? https://a.co/d/hqpZuts

[D-O]

When I push the clutch pedal in, engine running or off, I hear a squeak. Now, I haven't really dived into this but a little internet jockeying suggests either 1] pedal return spring or 2] slave cylinder. I'm looking for thoughts on how to proceed with troubleshooting and any consideration to be given to other components. All the clutch and trans parts are original to the car w/86k miles. I do have new pedal bushings and a spring on hand, but if I tear all that out, I'm wondering if doing the M/C at that time is only a marginal additional amount of work--and maybe even the S/C as well once bleeding is factored in. I'm just not sure of failure modes of the M/C and S/C to decide to just replace those all at once. Any insight is welcome, thanks!

I have the same squeek. For what it is worth, my slave cylinder has only 24k on it, and I believe the noise has been present for quite a while. I am in for insight as well.

[PSUEng]

When I push the clutch pedal in, engine running or off, I hear a squeak. Now, I haven't really dived into this but a little internet jockeying suggests either 1] pedal return spring or 2] slave cylinder. I'm looking for thoughts on how to proceed with troubleshooting and any consideration to be given to other components. All the clutch and trans parts are original to the car w/86k miles. I do have new pedal bushings and a spring on hand, but if I tear all that out, I'm wondering if doing the M/C at that time is only a marginal additional amount of work--and maybe even the S/C as well once bleeding is factored in. I'm just not sure of failure modes of the M/C and S/C to decide to just replace those all at once. Any insight is welcome, thanks!

[George Hill]

Well that answers my follow up question. I guess for now I'll try to siphon out any fluid in there. Just looked at the brake booster cost and it's not cheap 😫

I would consider replacing the master cylinder too. If it leaked once, its likely going to leak again 😢