Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[zzyzx85]

My dumb question is how to think about swapping not just intakes but the ECUs to go along with them.

For California reasons, it'd be great to swap between the CSL intake & stock intake periodically.

But my understanding is that an ECU really needs to be tuned (Alpha N, etc.) to take full advantage of the CSL intake. But that kind of tune is not permitted in CA.

So the dumb question is: could I simply buy a second ECU, pair it to my car, and have it tuned for the CSL setup, then swap both the stock intake and ECU back every few years? Or is there a work around to have my original ECU do it all?

that's what I'm doing. I have a 2nd ECU that has a "canned" tune from Kassel Performance that I run with my CSL intake. When it's time for smog, I swap it all out and put my stock ECU back on.

[Tbonem3]

Is the idea that they'll limit a tiny bit of deflection? Probably won't do much but introduce more NVH. I vote rubber. The ends, both upper and lower, are already ball joints anyway. Inners are a bitch to do anyway because you have to move or remove the diff.

[fattycharged]

Anyone running Powerflex bushes for the upper inners? I bought a set, was going to replace them last night while I was doing the ball joints, but ended up breaking my threaded rod and had to put it on hold.

It doesn't seem like they would be a negative in that location, my original rubber bushings look great for 120k miles and 20 years though 😂

Tempted to order a set of sphericals for it, but thought this the place to ask


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tbonem3]

Yes you can.

There are various things you can do with a "tune," and not affect the emissions drive cycles. You will need cats (in sect 1) or defoulers or something, and o2s installed ofc, but it is very possible.

[ridebikes]

You absolutely can be tuned during your smog test.

I meant you can't run Alpha N for a CSL intake

[Tbonem3]

But that kind of tune is not permitted in CA.

You absolutely can be tuned during your smog test.

[ridebikes]

My dumb question is how to think about swapping not just intakes but the ECUs to go along with them.

For California reasons, it'd be great to swap between the CSL intake & stock intake periodically.

But my understanding is that an ECU really needs to be tuned (Alpha N, etc.) to take full advantage of the CSL intake. But that kind of tune is not permitted in CA.

So the dumb question is: could I simply buy a second ECU, pair it to my car, and have it tuned for the CSL setup, then swap both the stock intake and ECU back every few years? Or is there a work around to have my original ECU do it all?

[BigRussia]

Position of the clock spring won't affect the steering angle measurement. The sensor for that is further down on the column and the column and clock spring are not mechanically attached by anything other than the steering wheel.

As Mau said, if you've got enough slack in the clock spring to be able to turn it to full lock both ways without it binding, you should be alright.

Oh ok awesome, good to know and thanks for confirming that! Yeah was really worried about having any DSC/ABS issues before a Sebring trip so already had given up and was packing up the wheel hub to return it to the local OMP America store I bought it from. I reached out to the sale rep too with the issue and he said hes going to check if there was a revision but I'm not hopeful. Said hes seen a similar issue with their NA/NB Miata wheel hub.

I guess I’ll go ahead and install it then with the clockspring canted to confirm no lock to lock issues, but will most likely do it after the Sebring weekend trip to be on the safe side and can test it properly. Dont want to discover issues while so far from home. Will follow-up with the results.
Lastly here’s a side by side of how canted the wheel hub is when lined up with the centered clockspring knubs that i took to send to the OMP sales rep.

[heinzboehmer]

Position of the clock spring won't affect the steering angle measurement. The sensor for that is further down on the column and the column and clock spring are not mechanically attached by anything other than the steering wheel.

As Mau said, if you've got enough slack in the clock spring to be able to turn it to full lock both ways without it binding, you should be alright.

[maupineda]

You can drive it, but would get DSC/ABS errors. Or if you have INPA I think you would be able to zero it out. It needs to learn its zero position.

[BigRussia]

I think you will need to recalibrate it to learn its zero position. The SCCM also is used by the DSC, the car will see an unexpected angle versus yaw and wheel speed..

also it will spin more to one side on lock to lock conditions so you need to make sure there is enough cable inside the spool. I think it does as the angle is not that much but not sure how much slack there is. Record the position and spin it in both directions to see how much there is lock to lock, be careful as there is no mechanical stop other than the internal wiring. As long as there is enough rotation based on the cars lock to lock turns based on the steering column limit you will be fine.

Damn didnt even think about the DSC and yaw sensor! Yeah now I'm not sure what to do, i really dont want to drive with a crooked steering wheel, and this doesn't seem like something an alignment would fix? Not that i have time before a 3.5hr drive up to Sebring Friday for a track weekend.
Here’s how crooked the hub and wheel would be if i put the hub on with clockspring centered (top hole has gold mark)

Ugh, why couldnt OMP just make their wheel hub have the holes for the clockspring knobs and the top wheel bolt hole be centered correctly lol. In an install video on youtube someone used a NRG one and they were able to slide it on centered no problem with the clock spring in center position. Figured a ‘quality’ brand like OMP i wouldnt have issues like this

[maupineda]

I think you will need to recalibrate it to learn its zero position. The SCCM also is used by the DSC, the car will see an unexpected angle versus yaw and wheel speed..

also it will spin more to one side on lock to lock conditions so you need to make sure there is enough cable inside the spool. I think it does as the angle is not that much but not sure how much slack there is. Record the position and spin it in both directions to see how much there is lock to lock, be careful as there is no mechanical stop other than the internal wiring. As long as there is enough rotation based on the cars lock to lock turns based on the steering column limit you will be fine.

[BigRussia]

When installing an aftermarket wheel hub, does the clockspring have to be in center position if not running any wires to the wheel? (no horn, airbag wires staying inside hub w/ two 2hm resistors)
The OMP wheel hub I’m installing wont mount with top hole centered (and thus wheel wont be centered) unless i rotate the clockspring left by pushing down on that bottom detent spring to position the two knubs to fit into the centered OMP hub.

Wondering if this would cause any issues, and if it’s a critical concern? Not sure what that bottom detent spring being depressed in that position would do? Would the steering feel weird turning it from off center with the clockspring like that?

(Pic 1 centered clockspring, pic 2 how i need to position it so the hub+wheel mount centered on the locked steering column spline)

[zzyzx85]

I swear I had pictures of what was behind that cover when I replaced the DMTL pump a few years back. I can't seem to find it but it looks like you got it...covered

[AWE46M3]

Sorry about that, I should have been more clear with my response. That photo I posted was just for my record of the car when I replaced the canister assembly, taken before I put the black plastic cover and heat shield back in place. I thought your question was just for the purpose of removal to access the canister for repair.

Thanks for your response nonetheless. Nice to know what’s behind that cover 😄