Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[DJAM3]

I would leave it in neutral so you're not loading the transmission, but keep the parking brake on. Although I can't imagine you could put enough torque using hand tools to hurt anything by leaving it in gear. It should break loose with a bit of effort, or you could try an impact driver (manual or battery-powered).

Ended up being a not strong enough impact wrench. Bought a new one and they came right out.

Next dumb question - Are Rogue transmission mounts stiff enough for a RTD shifter? I'd like to get rid of the NVH of 75D poly.

[zzyzx85]

Is P0128 typically the resolved with a new thermostat? Not sure if hoping it goes away on its own is a wasted effort and I should just go ahead and change out the thermostat.

[liam821]

I'm in the process of dropping my rear subframe and I've run into difficulty breaking loose the driveshaft to diff torx bolts. Is there a trick to this or am I missing something? All the videos I've seen these come right off without issue with the tranny in neutral. Do I need to put it in gear?

I would leave it in neutral so you're not loading the transmission, but keep the parking brake on. Although I can't imagine you could put enough torque using hand tools to hurt anything by leaving it in gear. It should break loose with a bit of effort, or you could try an impact driver (manual or battery-powered).

[DJAM3]

I'm in the process of dropping my rear subframe and I've run into difficulty breaking loose the driveshaft to diff torx bolts. Is there a trick to this or am I missing something? All the videos I've seen these come right off without issue with the tranny in neutral. Do I need to put it in gear?

[Slideways]

Made a stupid mistake and torqued the head down after realizing I forgot to add the gasket maker on the front cover.

I'm going to have to repull the head to fix is. Is it possible to get away with reusing this HG or should I just suck it up and get another one ?

I imagine most OEMs and engine builders would not recommend reusing an MLS head gasket after it has been installed.

In this thread (https://www.reddit.com/r/EngineBuild...an_mls_gasket/), they are saying not to reuse it if it has heat cycled.

Did you use factory head bolts or ARP studs? I'd be inclined to leave it as-is without the gasket maker if I used stock head bolts. There is a chance it won't leak.

For ARP, I'd consider getting another gasket as you can reuse the ARP hardware.

If you really, really don't want to do the job again, get a new headgasket and hardware (if not ARP).

It is shame to toss the new gasket, but rockauto does have the factory elring gasket for ~$50.

[Darbshaw]

Made a stupid mistake and torqued the head down after realizing I forgot to add the gasket maker on the front cover.

I'm going to have to repull the head to fix is. Is it possible to get away with reusing this HG or should I just suck it up and get another one ?

[Nate047]

Are the rear seats and all the brackets, hardware, etc from non M E46 coupes the same as M3?

How about door cards front and rear, same between non M coupes and M3?

[Nate047]

correct

Thank you kind sir

[George Hill]

correct

[Nate047]

Driveshaft CV joint, just double checking #15 on this diagram is not needed, for non M cars that have the #20 cap cover thing. #21 is needed of course

[0-60motorsports]

The picture of that pn# looks correct to me.

Thank you.

Saw this on ebay and look good too:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/387388266155?_trkparms=itmf%3D1%26aid%3D111001%26rkt%3D20%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26mech%3D1%26algv%3D%26pmt%3D0%26amclksrc%3DITM%26sid%3DAQAKAAAAEKpBkDKUzYJq3oCIzoT34SU%3D%26itm%3D387388266155%26noa%3D1%26brand%3DConcept%26asc%3D20240304162621%26ao%3D1%26rk%3D1%26pid%3D102020%26b%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone%26lsid%3D100%26meid%3Dd69b0c16ea9a41a2b50601798ca55fad%26pg%3D2332490&_trksid=p2332490.c102020.m5276

[George Hill]

Can Anyone confirm the PN for the ground cable from the engine to the chassis? 12421737755?

The picture of that pn# looks correct to me.

[0-60motorsports]

Can Anyone confirm the PN for the ground cable from the engine to the chassis? 12421737755?

[bavarian3]

Ok diff mount questions.

Are the rear mount torx bolts (inside the cover) one time use only or can these be reused?
Is there supposed to be a washer between the mount and where it touches the subframe?
Anyone have an objection to using a different style of bolt of the same size and grade if I can't fit a torx socket on there? I have CMP subframe mounts

I've reused all my bolts without issue - however, I'm pretty sure they're all torque-to-yield and are considered single-use.

They actually don't show as TTY/"always replace" in the torque spec doc or TIS, as far as I could tell.

I see no issue with switching to a hex head if it's the same grade and length. Torx head is just for reduced chance of stripping. Not a bad idea tbh. No washer between the subframe and mount... https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1076 . just for the mounting bolts.

I have cmp bushings, and initially had a tough time with the bolts as well. You need a lower profile ratchet and torque wrench. Check out my posts in this thread: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ff-bolts/page4

[bavarian3]

Sure, you could, as long as you have the map sensor installed. I was able to pass smog in my state (Oregon) with a CSL tune. It depends on whether your state looks for modified code in the DME.

Good to know it'll run. Will have to look into the latter part. I'm guessing yes. CA problems.