Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[ATB88]

Anyone who has DIY'd diff output seals: what did you use to drive the seal in? I remember it being a huge pain in the ass to get it in last time, and I would like to be prepared this time so I can get in and get out. Anyone know of an easily purchasable object that will do the trick?

[davidinnyc]

I'm running 12.5 in the rear and 20 in the front without issues and it looks great.

I’m assuming you responded because you have ZCP wheels and these tire specs and stock suspension, but… yes? lol

[BMWE46M3]

Okay - getting ready to install 996 calipers on the Imola. This question is partly lazy and also partly “I’ve read everywhere up and down and can’t get someone with the exact setup I want to run give me an answer”:

ZCP wheels
275/30/19 rear
245/35/19 front

What spacers can I run without issues and on stock suspension? I measured and *think* I can run 15MM up front and 12MM rear still without rubbing?

David

I'm running 12.5 in the rear and 20 in the front without issues and it looks great.

[davidinnyc]

Okay - getting ready to install 996 calipers on the Imola. This question is partly lazy and also partly “I’ve read everywhere up and down and can’t get someone with the exact setup I want to run give me an answer”:

ZCP wheels
275/30/19 rear
245/35/19 front

What spacers can I run without issues and on stock suspension? I measured and *think* I can run 15MM up front and 12MM rear still without rubbing?

David

[Slideways]

Have a proper dumb question for this thread this time; when removing the axle from the differential does any diff fluid come out? Need to repair the inner cv joint boot and was wondering if I’ll need to have some Castrol diff fluid handy or it’s actually a sealed unit and I'm being dumb?

You won't lose any diff fluid. The output shafts are bolted to the drive flanges on the differential, so they just get unbolted. Now if you want to replace the flange seals on the differential, then you might lose some diff fluid.

[BigRussia]

Have a proper dumb question for this thread this time; when removing the axle from the differential does any diff fluid come out? Need to repair the inner cv joint boot and was wondering if I’ll need to have some Castrol diff fluid handy or it’s actually a sealed unit and I'm being dumb?

[Cubieman]

I think so. You have to get it hot enough, but steel is easier to work with than any alloy.

You have a proper torch?

A long pry bar or something would be good to give you the leverage. One end down below that step, then the otherside of that step will be your fulcrum. I like your idea of pulling too. I would mock it up and practice first. Can this fit into a vice or can you make a quick jig or something to hold the whole thing? Maybe even in-situ if you had to.

Or take it and an 18 pack to a local muffler shop.

Unfortunately the best torch I have is MAP gas, I think I can vise that bitch up and give it a go. I just worry about cracking the welds, it bent one way (likely from a crash) now I am bending it back.

I do like how the resonators are clamped on so worst case I can just delete them or get new resonator as both sides are bent up. The exhaust is likely going to be super tame with 2 sets of resonator but the M6 isn't getting high end shit, that's for the 3 series.

[Tbonem3]

I think so. You have to get it hot enough, but steel is easier to work with than any alloy.

You have a proper torch?

A long pry bar or something would be good to give you the leverage. One end down below that step, then the otherside of that step will be your fulcrum. I like your idea of pulling too. I would mock it up and practice first. Can this fit into a vice or can you make a quick jig or something to hold the whole thing? Maybe even in-situ if you had to.

Or take it and an 18 pack to a local muffler shop.

[Cubieman]

I bought a used full exhaust system for my M6, supposedly Dinan, at least the mufflers. My issue is that one of the resonators is bent on the outlet side.

I don't know much about metal, welds etc. so I wondered if this could be fixed by me maybe with some heat/pliers/leverage.

[Acarv_426]

Adaptations get reset when the battery is undone as well. You'll be fine. Will take some time for smog monitors to set.

Appreciate the info. Thanks Tbonem3

[Tbonem3]

Adaptations get reset when the battery is undone as well. You'll be fine. Will take some time for smog monitors to set.

[Acarv_426]

I was running INPA and the laptop slid off my lap. I accidentally pressed F7 reset adaptations while the car was running. How screwed am I? Thanks

[oceansize]

1. Are there any non Genuine BMW center support bearings that are as good and lower cost? (Yes I know they are only like $150 to start with)
.

Might want to check your local BMW dealer as getbmwparts is $20 cheaper.

https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-parts/bmw-center-bearing-26122282495

[Slideways]

I need to do the driveshaft center bearing, and MAYBE the driveshaft CV joint. Long story short, I have a clunking sound after leaving my driveshaft not properly supported for a long period of time while doing my RACP. Stupid, I know. I'm inclined to believe, or at least, hoping, the center support bearing is the culprit.

1. Are there any non Genuine BMW center support bearings that are as good and lower cost? (Yes I know they are only like $150 to start with)
2. Are any of those fasteners one time use only? Or can I reuse everything?

I am going to try just doing the center bearing first, and if the clunking problem persists, then I'll drop the shaft and do the CV joint. So I'm hoping I can reuse everything if I need to drop it all twice.

The Rein branded one on ECS appears to have the BMW logo ground off. Unfortunately, they seem to be NLA. If you cannot source that one, you might have to go genuine.

[Nate047]

I need to do the driveshaft center bearing, and MAYBE the driveshaft CV joint. Long story short, I have a clunking sound after leaving my driveshaft not properly supported for a long period of time while doing my RACP. Stupid, I know. I'm inclined to believe, or at least, hoping, the center support bearing is the culprit.

1. Are there any non Genuine BMW center support bearings that are as good and lower cost? (Yes I know they are only like $150 to start with)
2. Are any of those fasteners one time use only? Or can I reuse everything?

I am going to try just doing the center bearing first, and if the clunking problem persists, then I'll drop the shaft and do the CV joint. So I'm hoping I can reuse everything if I need to drop it all twice.