Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Cubieman]

Yeah I mean I guess I just don't understand if there's a way for me to know if I can "get away" with the 3/8" until I'm in there doing it, right? I think I'm kind of confused by what you were saying -- the two bolts only differ in that one's M11 and the other's M10 -- I don't know much about this stuff but is there a reason one bolt would be significantly easier/harder to torque than the other? I would have assumed they'd be about the same.

I absolutely agree that the 3/8" techangle is a *way* more useful tool to have around than the 1/2", but unless someone can tell me that it's obviously not hard to properly do the rod bearing torque sequence (on my back) with the 3/8" techangle, then I think I have to go 1/2" to cover my ass :/

Right, sorry for the confusion, what I am saying is i don't know if the torque for the "older" bolts is the same of not.
For what its worth I did the RB's on my E63 M6 a few months ago and needed the 1/2". The torque for those was 6nm, 20nm, 130°, very similar.

I would get an opinion from someone else but it felt like for me, someone of "average" strength the 3/8" wrench maybe could have worked but I really don't think I would have managed to do each bolt with just one pass.
It's got to be something with torquing above your head side to side not up/down where you are more firmly planned.

[ATB88]

I have only done the latter style bolts and forgot the specs on the other bolts. I swear I was puzzled, it felt like I was putting 100ft lbs worth of work into each bolt only to see the reading was ~50ft lbs. Must have something to do with the angle as I do wheel bolts all the time with a 3/8".

If you can get away with the 3/8" do it!
Getting the 1/2" will leave you with a less capable all around tool due to the size and the fact it won't go quite a low as the 3/8" will in regards to torque.

You might ask George Hill for his opinion.

Yeah I mean I guess I just don't understand if there's a way for me to know if I can "get away" with the 3/8" until I'm in there doing it, right? I think I'm kind of confused by what you were saying -- the two bolts only differ in that one's M11 and the other's M10 -- I don't know much about this stuff but is there a reason one bolt would be significantly easier/harder to torque than the other? I would have assumed they'd be about the same.

I absolutely agree that the 3/8" techangle is a *way* more useful tool to have around than the 1/2", but unless someone can tell me that it's obviously not hard to properly do the rod bearing torque sequence (on my back) with the 3/8" techangle, then I think I have to go 1/2" to cover my ass :/

[Cubieman]

Oh shit I was literally just about to pull the trigger on a 3/8" techangle. Really glad I read this. If leverage is the issue, what specs would make the 3/8" acceptable? I'm confused why the two different bolts would change whether or not the 3/8" has enough leverage?

I have only done the latter style bolts and forgot the specs on the other bolts. I swear I was puzzled, it felt like I was putting 100ft lbs worth of work into each bolt only to see the reading was ~50ft lbs. Must have something to do with the angle as I do wheel bolts all the time with a 3/8".

If you can get away with the 3/8" do it!
Getting the 1/2" will leave you with a less capable all around tool due to the size and the fact it won't go quite a low as the 3/8" will in regards to torque.

You might ask George Hill for his opinion.

[ATB88]

Edit: I just read you have the old bolts, check out the specs for each wrench, maybe you could use the 3/8ths, that thing is handy as hell.

The 1/2" techangle is a great option, unfortunately the 3/8" would be MUCH more useful for about anything else. I have the 3/8" techangle and plan to buy the 1/2" this winter when I do my RB's.

It's interesting that the final torque ends up about 55ft lbs (if I remember correctly that is) but yet it feels much more than that when doing the final angle.

I've done 2 M3's RB jobs on a lift and definitely wanted the extra leverage the 1/2" provides.

You might also get away with a quality breaker bar/dial or digi angle gauge but I tend to overthink and go overboard.

Oh shit I was literally just about to pull the trigger on a 3/8" techangle. Really glad I read this. If leverage is the issue, what specs would make the 3/8" acceptable? I'm confused why the two different bolts would change whether or not the 3/8" has enough leverage?

[Cubieman]

I think I'm finally getting around to rod bearings next weekend... I'm doing it on jackstands in the driveway. Anyone have a recommendation for a good high precision digital angle torque wrench to do it? I've got the old style rod bolts. I assume I want something with a flex head?

Edit: I just read you have the old bolts, check out the specs for each wrench, maybe you could use the 3/8ths, that thing is handy as hell.

The 1/2" techangle is a great option, unfortunately the 3/8" would be MUCH more useful for about anything else. I have the 3/8" techangle and plan to buy the 1/2" this winter when I do my RB's.

It's interesting that the final torque ends up about 55ft lbs (if I remember correctly that is) but yet it feels much more than that when doing the final angle.

I've done 2 M3's RB jobs on a lift and definitely wanted the extra leverage the 1/2" provides.

You might also get away with a quality breaker bar/dial or digi angle gauge but I tend to overthink and go overboard.

[ATB88]

I think I'm finally getting around to rod bearings next weekend... I'm doing it on jackstands in the driveway. Anyone have a recommendation for a good high precision digital angle torque wrench to do it? I've got the old style rod bolts. I assume I want something with a flex head?

[DJAM3]

I went ahead and installed the Rogue tranny mounts. So far so good during street driving. We'll see how it does when I do a track day next month. The difference in NVH vs the 75D mounts is night and day. The combo of 75D mounts and a steel SMF was pretty extreme. The Rogue mounts makes it sound almost stock again.

[Darbshaw]

I imagine most OEMs and engine builders would not recommend reusing an MLS head gasket after it has been installed.

In this thread (https://www.reddit.com/r/EngineBuild...an_mls_gasket/), they are saying not to reuse it if it has heat cycled.

Did you use factory head bolts or ARP studs? I'd be inclined to leave it as-is without the gasket maker if I used stock head bolts. There is a chance it won't leak.

For ARP, I'd consider getting another gasket as you can reuse the ARP hardware.

If you really, really don't want to do the job again, get a new headgasket and hardware (if not ARP).

It is shame to toss the new gasket, but rockauto does have the factory elring gasket for ~$50.

Wow I should have kept an eye out for rock auto in the future. That's a significant price jump from FCP's pricing.

I appreciate the advice, I have ARP and ended up buying another head gasket. Then that one came damaged in shipping lol. I cannot win with this car at the moment.

One thing I did notice is that the elring head gasket has its own piece of rubber gasket on the meeting point where it calls for gasket maker. So there is probably a chance that didn't leak.

[George Hill]

Hoping I don't hate running the BW engine mounts I just installed…

Solid?

I don't put solid on anything period, well maybe a drag only car, but not anything the gets driven. The only problem (IMO) with stock is they wear out sooner than most people would like.

[fattycharged]

IMO, there is no reason to run any kind of solid/super stiff engine mount it just tears things up.

Run new to newer engine mounts, RE trans mounts and it'll be fine. In that application the engine mounts become a wear item and get changed before they are "visually" bad.

YMMV

Hoping I don't hate running the BW engine mounts I just installed…


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[George Hill]

IMO, there is no reason to run any kind of solid/super stiff engine mount it just tears things up.

Run new to newer engine mounts, RE trans mounts and it'll be fine. In that application the engine mounts become a wear item and get changed before they are "visually" bad.

YMMV

[jayjaya29]

Too optimistic for a chassis mount shifter (in my opinion).

[DJAM3]

Wouldn't the motor mounts be more critical? My motor mounts are the solid rubber style and I haven't had any problems shifting. I'm thinking switching to a similar rubber mount for the tranny would be ok. Is this too optimistic?

[jayjaya29]

Ended up being a not strong enough impact wrench. Bought a new one and they came right out.

Next dumb question - Are Rogue transmission mounts stiff enough for a RTD shifter? I'd like to get rid of the NVH of 75D poly.

Depends on your motor mounts, but based on personal experience running rogue trans mounts and 75D motor mounts, no, they are not stiff enough.

[DJAM3]

I would leave it in neutral so you're not loading the transmission, but keep the parking brake on. Although I can't imagine you could put enough torque using hand tools to hurt anything by leaving it in gear. It should break loose with a bit of effort, or you could try an impact driver (manual or battery-powered).

Ended up being a not strong enough impact wrench. Bought a new one and they came right out.

Next dumb question - Are Rogue transmission mounts stiff enough for a RTD shifter? I'd like to get rid of the NVH of 75D poly.