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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Position of the clock spring won't affect the steering angle measurement. The sensor for that is further down on the column and the column and clock spring are not mechanically attached by anything other than the steering wheel.

    As Mau said, if you've got enough slack in the clock spring to be able to turn it to full lock both ways without it binding, you should be alright.

    Leave a comment:


  • maupineda
    replied
    You can drive it, but would get DSC/ABS errors. Or if you have INPA I think you would be able to zero it out. It needs to learn its zero position.

    Leave a comment:


  • BigRussia
    replied
    Originally posted by maupineda View Post
    I think you will need to recalibrate it to learn its zero position. The SCCM also is used by the DSC, the car will see an unexpected angle versus yaw and wheel speed..

    also it will spin more to one side on lock to lock conditions so you need to make sure there is enough cable inside the spool. I think it does as the angle is not that much but not sure how much slack there is. Record the position and spin it in both directions to see how much there is lock to lock, be careful as there is no mechanical stop other than the internal wiring. As long as there is enough rotation based on the cars lock to lock turns based on the steering column limit you will be fine.
    Damn didnt even think about the DSC and yaw sensor! Yeah now I'm not sure what to do, i really dont want to drive with a crooked steering wheel, and this doesn't seem like something an alignment would fix? Not that i have time before a 3.5hr drive up to Sebring Friday for a track weekend.
    Here’s how crooked the hub and wheel would be if i put the hub on with clockspring centered (top hole has gold mark)
    Click image for larger version

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    Ugh, why couldnt OMP just make their wheel hub have the holes for the clockspring knobs and the top wheel bolt hole be centered correctly lol. In an install video on youtube someone used a NRG one and they were able to slide it on centered no problem with the clock spring in center position. Figured a ‘quality’ brand like OMP i wouldnt have issues like this

    Leave a comment:


  • maupineda
    replied
    I think you will need to recalibrate it to learn its zero position. The SCCM also is used by the DSC, the car will see an unexpected angle versus yaw and wheel speed..

    also it will spin more to one side on lock to lock conditions so you need to make sure there is enough cable inside the spool. I think it does as the angle is not that much but not sure how much slack there is. Record the position and spin it in both directions to see how much there is lock to lock, be careful as there is no mechanical stop other than the internal wiring. As long as there is enough rotation based on the cars lock to lock turns based on the steering column limit you will be fine.

    Leave a comment:


  • BigRussia
    replied
    When installing an aftermarket wheel hub, does the clockspring have to be in center position if not running any wires to the wheel? (no horn, airbag wires staying inside hub w/ two 2hm resistors)
    The OMP wheel hub I’m installing wont mount with top hole centered (and thus wheel wont be centered) unless i rotate the clockspring left by pushing down on that bottom detent spring to position the two knubs to fit into the centered OMP hub.

    Wondering if this would cause any issues, and if it’s a critical concern? Not sure what that bottom detent spring being depressed in that position would do? Would the steering feel weird turning it from off center with the clockspring like that?

    (Pic 1 centered clockspring, pic 2 how i need to position it so the hub+wheel mount centered on the locked steering column spline)​
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    Leave a comment:


  • zzyzx85
    replied
    I swear I had pictures of what was behind that cover when I replaced the DMTL pump a few years back. I can't seem to find it but it looks like you got it...covered

    Leave a comment:


  • AWE46M3
    replied
    Originally posted by PSUEng View Post

    Sorry about that, I should have been more clear with my response. That photo I posted was just for my record of the car when I replaced the canister assembly, taken before I put the black plastic cover and heat shield back in place. I thought your question was just for the purpose of removal to access the canister for repair.
    Thanks for your response nonetheless. Nice to know what’s behind that cover 😄

    Leave a comment:


  • PSUEng
    replied
    Originally posted by AWE46M3 View Post

    Thanks for the picture. And kudos to you for the proactive maintenance.

    I want to make sure I’m not misreading your response - did you remove the plastic housing altogether? If so, no issues leaving the charcoal canister assembly exposed to the heat and elements under the car?


    In was planning to drill the 4 rivets out that connect that lower part of the shield to the plastic housing. Assuming there was something behind it, I was going to cover that with some heat tape and call it a day. The fact that there is nothing behind the heat shield complicates that plan….back to the drawing board.
    Sorry about that, I should have been more clear with my response. That photo I posted was just for my record of the car when I replaced the canister assembly, taken before I put the black plastic cover and heat shield back in place. I thought your question was just for the purpose of removal to access the canister for repair.

    Leave a comment:


  • AWE46M3
    replied
    Originally posted by PSUEng View Post

    Nothing, just remove it. I replaced my charcoal can 2 years ago; black box comes right off.
    Thanks for the picture. And kudos to you for the proactive maintenance.

    I want to make sure I’m not misreading your response - did you remove the plastic housing altogether? If so, no issues leaving the charcoal canister assembly exposed to the heat and elements under the car?


    In was planning to drill the 4 rivets out that connect that lower part of the shield to the plastic housing. Assuming there was something behind it, I was going to cover that with some heat tape and call it a day. The fact that there is nothing behind the heat shield complicates that plan….back to the drawing board.
    Last edited by AWE46M3; 12-06-2024, 09:42 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • PSUEng
    replied
    Originally posted by AWE46M3 View Post
    Activated Charcoal Canister Cover (PN 51717893604) question - Is there anything behind this heat shield that ties into the canister cover or is it open? If there is a plastic piece coming down that the heat shield is covering, can you help me identify the PN?

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    Nothing, just remove it. I replaced my charcoal can 2 years ago; black box comes right off.

    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • L0okitzRaj
    replied
    I have an drift day coming up.... There is potential for wheels off, and I want to ensure no airbags pop.

    Y'all have any quick ways of disabling airbags? I have ncs expert if needed. I don't want to have to physically disconnect anything.

    Is as easy as just pulling the fuse?
    Last edited by L0okitzRaj; 12-06-2024, 01:22 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • AWE46M3
    replied
    Activated Charcoal Canister Cover (PN 51717893604) question - Is there anything behind this heat shield that ties into the canister cover or is it open? If there is a plastic piece coming down that the heat shield is covering, can you help me identify the PN?

    Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	0 Size:	349.5 KB ID:	286084

    Leave a comment:


  • IamFODI
    replied
    ^ Interesting. Why intake cam on the S62 but exhaust cam on the S54? Are those the shortest ways to run the chains?

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by newton22 View Post

    Thank you! Could BMW have designed the intake cam to be the one with the oil pump disc?
    Probably, they did that on the S62.

    Click image for larger version

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  • newton22
    replied
    Originally posted by Slideways View Post

    The exhaust cam and hub tabs drive the oil pump disc in the VANOS unit to generate the oil pressure required to advance and retard the cams.

    Skip to VANOS section: https://bmwtechinfo.bmwgroup.com/tec...%20Vehicle.pdf

    https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-info-thread
    Thank you! Could BMW have designed the intake cam to be the one with the oil pump disc?

    Leave a comment:

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