Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[bmwfnatic]

Any ideas on what to use to remove residue from cylinder walls?

"Carbon X Combustion Chamber Cleaner K1+K2" is a product that cleans carbon deposits insanely well.
It's a 2 part formula, one is the cleaner, which is like a thick shaving foam, and the other part is the neutralizer, which makes the foam turn liquid on contact.

The stuff is strong enough to clean without any abresives, I wouldn't put scotchbrite anywhere near my cylinder walls, it is effectively still sandpaper.

Just be cautious you can do more harm than good cleaning the combustion chamber and the top of the pistons if that means a bunch of gunk goes into the ringland area.
Painters tape is your friend...

[bmwfnatic]

If they have that green O-ring, that means they'd need to be replaced, yeah?

Officially yes, but if you put it on recently and not years ago I think they will survive reusing once for sure.

[sbay]

Yeah, it will be abrasive enough to remove heavy carbon buildup, but shouldn't remove any material from the iron block. You just don't want any of the fibers or loose carbon getting between the piston and rings. If you are going to leave the block and cylinders exposed for an extended period of time, it is good to spray them with WD-40 to keep moisture out; otherwise, they can start to form surface rust.

Really good video very informative

[Slideways]

Thank you…just to confirm, we’re talking about this scotchbrite?

Yeah, it will be abrasive enough to remove heavy carbon buildup, but shouldn't remove any material from the iron block. You just don't want any of the fibers or loose carbon getting between the piston and rings. If you are going to leave the block and cylinders exposed for an extended period of time, it is good to spray them with WD-40 to keep moisture out; otherwise, they can start to form surface rust.

[sbay]

WD-40 and scotchbright. Best to put rags in the cylinders to catch any the debris falling into the piston rings.

Thank you…just to confirm, we’re talking about this scotchbrite?

[Slideways]

Any ideas on what to use to remove residue from cylinder walls?

WD-40 and scotchbright. Best to put rags in the cylinders to catch any the debris falling into the piston rings.

[Slideways]

If they have that green O-ring, that means they'd need to be replaced, yeah?

Yes, TIS states to replace the entire plug. I have taken out the o-ring to measure it and it shouldn't be too difficult to find a bag of replacement o-rings.

The older style plugs, which I kept in case I want to revert back, did use a crush washer, but realOEM no longer lists a part number for the crush washer for the E46. You have to go to an older model, like the E31, where they still have it on the diagram funny enough.

[sbay]

Any ideas on what to use to remove residue from cylinder walls?

[IamFODI]

The ones on older cars had a crush washer, the ones you buy now have a green o-ring.

If they have that green O-ring, that means they'd need to be replaced, yeah?

[bmwfnatic]

No crush washer then? Thank you so much!

The ones on older cars had a crush washer, the ones you buy now have a green o-ring.

[BRiley]

This is the case for the differential since they have built in o-rings. Transmission plugs are reusable and don't have a sealing ring.

No crush washer then? Thank you so much!

[Slideways]

Dumb question on transmission fluid change. It seems that some websites / DIY's say you need to replace the transmission fill / drain plugs when changing fluid. Is that true? Why not just the crush washer?

This is the case for the differential since they have built in o-rings. Transmission plugs are reusable and don't have a sealing ring.

[BRiley]

Dumb question on transmission fluid change. It seems that some websites / DIY's say you need to replace the transmission fill / drain plugs when changing fluid. Is that true? Why not just the crush washer?

[Tbonem3]

Right otherwise it won't stretch. They need tension.

Or add loctite?

[jayjaya29]

Do torque marks work for removing and reinstalling a fastener at the same torque?

Why I ask:
I've made a bunch of changes to my ride height. I was thinking it wouldn't hurt to loosen and retorque any non-sperical control arm bushings at the new ride height. The rear upper control arms won't fit a torque wrench with the diff in place now, I was thinking what I just mark it as it's properly torqued now then refasten with a box wrench to the marking.

I would tighten just a little past the existing torque mark just to be sure.