Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Darbshaw]

I imagine most OEMs and engine builders would not recommend reusing an MLS head gasket after it has been installed.

In this thread (https://www.reddit.com/r/EngineBuild...an_mls_gasket/), they are saying not to reuse it if it has heat cycled.

Did you use factory head bolts or ARP studs? I'd be inclined to leave it as-is without the gasket maker if I used stock head bolts. There is a chance it won't leak.

For ARP, I'd consider getting another gasket as you can reuse the ARP hardware.

If you really, really don't want to do the job again, get a new headgasket and hardware (if not ARP).

It is shame to toss the new gasket, but rockauto does have the factory elring gasket for ~$50.

Wow I should have kept an eye out for rock auto in the future. That's a significant price jump from FCP's pricing.

I appreciate the advice, I have ARP and ended up buying another head gasket. Then that one came damaged in shipping lol. I cannot win with this car at the moment.

One thing I did notice is that the elring head gasket has its own piece of rubber gasket on the meeting point where it calls for gasket maker. So there is probably a chance that didn't leak.

[George Hill]

Hoping I don't hate running the BW engine mounts I just installed…

Solid?

I don't put solid on anything period, well maybe a drag only car, but not anything the gets driven. The only problem (IMO) with stock is they wear out sooner than most people would like.

[fattycharged]

IMO, there is no reason to run any kind of solid/super stiff engine mount it just tears things up.

Run new to newer engine mounts, RE trans mounts and it'll be fine. In that application the engine mounts become a wear item and get changed before they are "visually" bad.

YMMV

Hoping I don't hate running the BW engine mounts I just installed…


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[George Hill]

IMO, there is no reason to run any kind of solid/super stiff engine mount it just tears things up.

Run new to newer engine mounts, RE trans mounts and it'll be fine. In that application the engine mounts become a wear item and get changed before they are "visually" bad.

YMMV

[jayjaya29]

Too optimistic for a chassis mount shifter (in my opinion).

[DJAM3]

Wouldn't the motor mounts be more critical? My motor mounts are the solid rubber style and I haven't had any problems shifting. I'm thinking switching to a similar rubber mount for the tranny would be ok. Is this too optimistic?

[jayjaya29]

Ended up being a not strong enough impact wrench. Bought a new one and they came right out.

Next dumb question - Are Rogue transmission mounts stiff enough for a RTD shifter? I'd like to get rid of the NVH of 75D poly.

Depends on your motor mounts, but based on personal experience running rogue trans mounts and 75D motor mounts, no, they are not stiff enough.

[DJAM3]

I would leave it in neutral so you're not loading the transmission, but keep the parking brake on. Although I can't imagine you could put enough torque using hand tools to hurt anything by leaving it in gear. It should break loose with a bit of effort, or you could try an impact driver (manual or battery-powered).

Ended up being a not strong enough impact wrench. Bought a new one and they came right out.

Next dumb question - Are Rogue transmission mounts stiff enough for a RTD shifter? I'd like to get rid of the NVH of 75D poly.

[zzyzx85]

Is P0128 typically the resolved with a new thermostat? Not sure if hoping it goes away on its own is a wasted effort and I should just go ahead and change out the thermostat.

[liam821]

I'm in the process of dropping my rear subframe and I've run into difficulty breaking loose the driveshaft to diff torx bolts. Is there a trick to this or am I missing something? All the videos I've seen these come right off without issue with the tranny in neutral. Do I need to put it in gear?

I would leave it in neutral so you're not loading the transmission, but keep the parking brake on. Although I can't imagine you could put enough torque using hand tools to hurt anything by leaving it in gear. It should break loose with a bit of effort, or you could try an impact driver (manual or battery-powered).

[DJAM3]

I'm in the process of dropping my rear subframe and I've run into difficulty breaking loose the driveshaft to diff torx bolts. Is there a trick to this or am I missing something? All the videos I've seen these come right off without issue with the tranny in neutral. Do I need to put it in gear?

[Slideways]

Made a stupid mistake and torqued the head down after realizing I forgot to add the gasket maker on the front cover.

I'm going to have to repull the head to fix is. Is it possible to get away with reusing this HG or should I just suck it up and get another one ?

I imagine most OEMs and engine builders would not recommend reusing an MLS head gasket after it has been installed.

In this thread (https://www.reddit.com/r/EngineBuild...an_mls_gasket/), they are saying not to reuse it if it has heat cycled.

Did you use factory head bolts or ARP studs? I'd be inclined to leave it as-is without the gasket maker if I used stock head bolts. There is a chance it won't leak.

For ARP, I'd consider getting another gasket as you can reuse the ARP hardware.

If you really, really don't want to do the job again, get a new headgasket and hardware (if not ARP).

It is shame to toss the new gasket, but rockauto does have the factory elring gasket for ~$50.

[Darbshaw]

Made a stupid mistake and torqued the head down after realizing I forgot to add the gasket maker on the front cover.

I'm going to have to repull the head to fix is. Is it possible to get away with reusing this HG or should I just suck it up and get another one ?

[Nate047]

Are the rear seats and all the brackets, hardware, etc from non M E46 coupes the same as M3?

How about door cards front and rear, same between non M coupes and M3?

[Nate047]

correct

Thank you kind sir