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  • fattycharged
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

    No, no car needs rear o2s except to complete the emissions drivecycles for smog inspection.

    FWIW, the SS HJS catted sect 1 does pass CA SMOG. I leave my rear o2s in and leave the pipes in, just swap the airbox.
    I'm debating bringing it out to CA, or the E36, not sure which I would prefer to have as a fun weekend car now that I'm living down in SD 3 days a week


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Originally posted by fattycharged View Post
    do i really need to run the O2's post SS sec1 cats?

    TIA


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    No, no car needs rear o2s except to complete the emissions drivecycles for smog inspection.

    FWIW, the SS HJS catted sect 1 does pass CA SMOG. I leave my rear o2s in and leave the pipes in, just swap the airbox.

    Leave a comment:


  • fattycharged
    replied
    do i really need to run the O2's post SS sec1 cats?

    TIA


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Barracooda
    replied
    Originally posted by jayjaya29 View Post

    Its supposed to be but looks like the friction welds have failed and the panel separated.
    So that's what the rough circles are around the edges, it's where it used to be attached. This makes sense, my splash pan is a little beat up, and it explains why I couldn't find that part separately.

    Leave a comment:


  • E46 M3
    replied
    Damn it I'm back to 2nd crank starts, solved it by buying the Hella branded fuel pump 3 years ago so I figured I'd buy another one but it's doubled in price since then lol.

    Leave a comment:


  • jayjaya29
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    I thought those two pieces were glued/"welded" together no?
    Its supposed to be but looks like the friction welds have failed and the panel separated.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    I thought those two pieces were glued/"welded" together no?

    Leave a comment:


  • Barracooda
    replied
    Originally posted by jayjaya29 View Post

    This looks like the insert piece on the main splash panel, see pics here:

    https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...uine-bmw-part/
    Thank you, those pictures help a ton. I didn't realize I needed to have this piece inserted into the main splash pan on assembly, makes perfect sense now.

    Leave a comment:


  • jayjaya29
    replied
    Originally posted by Barracooda View Post
    I've got another dumb question, where the heck does this splash guard / shroud thing go? It's got a part number on it, 51717895092, which I haven't been able to find in any of the diagrams or for sale. I took it off at some point while refreshing the cooling system and never could find the proper place for it upon reassembly.

    It somewhat fits around the oil cooler, but didn't seem quite right. I've watched every video I can think of and haven't seen it. The part number is only 1 digit off from the big belly pan / splash guard (51717895091).​
    This looks like the insert piece on the main splash panel, see pics here:

    Leave a comment:


  • Barracooda
    replied
    I've got another dumb question, where the heck does this splash guard / shroud thing go? It's got a part number on it, 51717895092, which I haven't been able to find in any of the diagrams or for sale. I took it off at some point while refreshing the cooling system and never could find the proper place for it upon reassembly.

    It somewhat fits around the oil cooler, but didn't seem quite right. I've watched every video I can think of and haven't seen it. The part number is only 1 digit off from the big belly pan / splash guard (51717895091).​

    Leave a comment:


  • Barracooda
    replied
    What's the purpose of this smooth hole machined into the head? There's one at the front and rear, only thing I can think of is maybe they use it to lift the engines during assembly?

    Leave a comment:


  • bavarian3
    replied
    Originally posted by davidinnyc View Post
    What is the exhaust manifold stud torque spec? Was contemplating the extended N54 bolts, but couldn’t find the torque setting in that giant torque spec PDF.
    Good and tight should do for the nuts you can't get to with a torque wrench.

    Click image for larger version

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by Keith_MN View Post
    Nearing winter storage time and getting a plan together. I don't have much experience on the coding/tuning side of things so wanted to put this out there for the group.

    On the '25-26 winter list:
    Rod Bearings
    SMG>Manual swap
    Euro headers & section 1

    Sometime slightly later:
    Karbonius airbox

    Does it make any difference the order of upgrades or amount of changes as it relates to the DME? For now, I think I'm planning on doing the three things listed, then getting the DME reflashed for the manual swap and a canned tune. Then at some later point, do the airbox and finish with a dyno tune. Part of me wants to just do all of it this winter but I generally don't like doing so many changes at once. I have everything on hand minus the airbox, might order that next week.
    If you are the paranoid type (like me) maybe at least do just the RB's and drive it when you can, that way you don't introduce new sounds etc. and think it's something it's not.

    Leave a comment:


  • Keith_MN
    replied
    Nearing winter storage time and getting a plan together. I don't have much experience on the coding/tuning side of things so wanted to put this out there for the group.

    On the '25-26 winter list:
    Rod Bearings
    SMG>Manual swap
    Euro headers & section 1

    Sometime slightly later:
    Karbonius airbox

    Does it make any difference the order of upgrades or amount of changes as it relates to the DME? For now, I think I'm planning on doing the three things listed, then getting the DME reflashed for the manual swap and a canned tune. Then at some later point, do the airbox and finish with a dyno tune. Part of me wants to just do all of it this winter but I generally don't like doing so many changes at once. I have everything on hand minus the airbox, might order that next week.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    On a side note, if you are using SSV1's I would skip the n54 studs, they are much longer and make lining up the header flanges a pain as they get crammed between the now longer studs/frame rail area.

    I got my SSV1'S just after they had some bad batches with misaligned flanges, mine seemed to be straight but maybe not completely so maybe that was my hangup. I actually had to ever so slightly enlarge a few of the flange holes to get them to install

    Euro headers etc. should be no problem.

    Also, I feel bad that I put N54 parts on my S54, yuck.

    Leave a comment:

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