I am a novice when it comes to anything suspension related. I currently have Koni Yellows w/ stock springs my car. My dumb question below:
Aside from the performance benefits, would "upgrading" to specifically Ohlin R&Ts result in reduced comfort during normal street driving or is there a chance ride comfort could be improved?
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IIRC there was someone that made a kit to install an automatic brake pedal into an SMG M3.
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Does anyone else here have an SMG and also left foot brakes?
I think it was last year that I started to teach my left foot to brake, (more like I did on the forklift at work), and it has improved my cornering smoothness by a good margin. Trail braking is easier, and easing on the power at just the right moment is also more accurate. Since there's no clutch I can sit still in the same position and find that my right knee is much happier not having to twist to apply the brakes. My only gripe is that I have a skinny brake pedal still, I might get an e46 automatic brake pedal so that I'm even more comfortable.
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For whatever reason my strut brace bolts are always coming just loose enough to creak when it's loaded up. Perhaps there's some merit to replacing them after a few uses.Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
Thanks, I'll probably order some just because but thinking the bolts are likely fine, these likely see minimal if any stretch.
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Thanks, I'll probably order some just because but thinking the bolts are likely fine, these likely see minimal if any stretch.Originally posted by Slideways View Post
Still on the originals and reused many times. I did order new ones recently, but have not got around to putting them in, probably won't for a while. The original bolts still look fine and I think they are 10.9 grade.
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Still on the originals and reused many times. I did order new ones recently, but have not got around to putting them in, probably won't for a while. The original bolts still look fine and I think they are 10.9 grade.Originally posted by Cubieman View PostThe pinch bolt for the front struts is listed as one time use, I usually always dont think twice and just replace.
Curious if others think its fine to reuse for a bit, I'll likely tag it on to a future order and drive as is for a while.
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The pinch bolt for the front struts is listed as one time use, I usually always dont think twice and just replace.
Curious if others think its fine to reuse for a bit, I'll likely tag it on to a future order and drive as is for a while.
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Steering wheel, why can’t I pull out position 1 and 3 connectors to the steering column?
I looked at e46 steering wheel removal and they just come out. But I’m doing the same thing and it’s stuck?
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Ball joints whose boots don't tear, garaged or good weather can go 200k, but that's not the standard an m3 owner would have I don't think.
Rubber's a whole diff story. Rtabs can be shot in 30k. The foam diff bushings seem to be pretty good to 100k+, but replacement will have major impression of improvement which is an important point - what standard will you pay for? Fresh bushings feel so good. Bearings are not bushings. No torn boot and no real slop that you can replicate, no need to replace imo but I did anyway tho
I had about 140k at the time which is substantial enough.
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They tend to go well over 100k on a street driven car that is parked indoors. Many parts will last much longer if the car is not left out in the elements.Originally posted by PSUEng View PostOn a street driven car, how long could one expect the rear suspension inner/outer upper/lower bushings and ball joints to last? I'm at 85k, had a shop do the Turner adjustable lower arms (comes with new inner bushings) and the outer ball joints for those arms (Lems); the upper arm inners/outers were left alone and are original to the car. Now, my OCD is kicking in, and I just should have at least had the upper outers pressed in. But, the upper inners seem tricky, and labor intensive to do if they aren't worn. Symptoms to look out for? I don't want weak upper bushings prematurely wearing the new lowers, but maybe I'm ignorant of how the rear suspension geometry works with respect to "wearing" of these bushings/ball joints.
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I would expect them to last a very long time. The upper inner bushing is a very small rubber bushing so it would be hard for it to outright fail. The upper outer ball joint is also quite robust. I wouldn't lose sleep over it for a street driven car.
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On a street driven car, how long could one expect the rear suspension inner/outer upper/lower bushings and ball joints to last? I'm at 85k, had a shop do the Turner adjustable lower arms (comes with new inner bushings) and the outer ball joints for those arms (Lems); the upper arm inners/outers were left alone and are original to the car. Now, my OCD is kicking in, and I just should have at least had the upper outers pressed in. But, the upper inners seem tricky, and labor intensive to do if they aren't worn. Symptoms to look out for? I don't want weak upper bushings prematurely wearing the new lowers, but maybe I'm ignorant of how the rear suspension geometry works with respect to "wearing" of these bushings/ball joints.
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