So would you turn right all the way until it can't click anymore, then start clicking left?
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When adjusting the rebound on Ohlins R&T, is it right = stiff, left = loose?
So would you turn right all the way until it can't click anymore, then start clicking left?
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Awesome! Thank you for that detailed info and links! Yeah $55 doesn't seem that bad for that first kit if you’re recommending it and say it’s much easier. I’ll look into getting that one then, will def reach out/PM you when I tackle the job with any questions lol, appreciate it!Originally posted by Bebop View PostYou need to use a different connector. the one that comes with the Spal is shit and the factory one is not easy to deal with if you're not equipped with good crimpers.
The best solution is a connector that uses closed barrel pins. I suggest a Deutsch DTP 2 positions.
This kit comes with the proper crimper and it a breeze to install.
I know it's not crazy cheap, but this is the way.
The Deutsch connectors are also re-usable, so if you need to change the fan down the road or the controller, you can do that without having to cut/re-crimp your wiring.
Alternatively, you can also use a Metripak 630, which is cheaper but a lot easier to mess the crimping process :
I still don't recommend it.
Let me know if you want more details/explanations, just ask, I do automotive wiring for a living.
Quick last dumb question; what’s the best way for me to determine which wires on the controller are + and ground? With BMWs seems brown is usually ground but dont want to assume, I dont know how to test beforehand 😅
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You need to use a different connector. the one that comes with the Spal is shit and the factory one is not easy to deal with if you're not equipped with good crimpers.
The best solution is a connector that uses closed barrel pins. I suggest a Deutsch DTP 2 positions.
https://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-Contact-Complete-Connector-Crimper/dp/B00WMZC6RG/ref=sr_1_1?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BjR0PDsrcygYV1Hzi_uUXk EYS3TblMovS0SedZf00-hn7FxZSE9_UEUkfydpyW5XWDu6vDuyw0s0XuQz9HYf1OZqrdom mB1IJekOQ871U2G3oCQwKFEkwLPtkEfP052bVpOvYpNjgMM42L 27Z2bj0_i8zpDj5sEOBrhifljDKhGauRjXtkjKsd5Ep2mUxxAj auP3A12bNDAGOxiIMGP2zy0hvC_MNIpGI7EvEIPQCZk5Kv6Rq_ DcLmo8wSNAuDFQbPVnI0Q9uqiOu-1paoZc7X_371EW6qF6Q3oUSTeZgZg.NcL941fImJVd-bI_Z8u0CbtSI6T8U_kml60R6iMUO0E&dib_tag=se&keywords =Deutsch+2+Pin+Solid+Contact+Complete+Connector+Ki t+w%2F+Crimper&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1773415744& s=hi&sr=1-1
This kit comes with the proper crimper and it a breeze to install.
I know it's not crazy cheap, but this is the way.
The Deutsch connectors are also re-usable, so if you need to change the fan down the road or the controller, you can do that without having to cut/re-crimp your wiring.
Alternatively, you can also use a Metripak 630, which is cheaper but a lot easier to mess the crimping process :
Connector :
https://www.amazon.com/Ballenger-Motorsports-Compatible-Metripack-Receptacle/dp/B08PV8X3BT/ref=sr_1_20?crid=2Y5C9EM6JO5NI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.OT YAbuOw2HCvncQLWNWcVE9-TrOKb0n24gDl9XE6S6O-avirRNUH8RQwvFNZcFIBAmnF67j8coA9P37uX5Ayna32Fyii-9FZ8mWDCab1KY9ttZd-FzT2pqOMcHMICAGwN-fa_YI-91d_owNjVIv8Ck5RobVTJhtEV9uvBM9CCq62yFzMD06NaW2vEP Vy1tahjOk_y_cQOsCZAvYvn5RQ20ht5g95AShkRoE60vr-JJvUMxseiHdppLGp4j0nvnbCsKNlLOKmTkp5In-f_uKkvztb61ibKHmVcQet6Q8PKv0.s7OxFsl6QF-wJeIx6nTgZzyLRtc-fAtA-4BplSuY52w&dib_tag=se&keywords=metripack%2B630&qid =1773416055&s=hi&sprefix=metripack%2B630%2Bconnect or%2Ctools%2C275&sr=1-20&th=1
Crimper:
https://www.amazon.com/HKS-Crimping-Terminals-Metri-Pack-Connectors/dp/B0CGTZ6G46/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3KJ906DBIMK8Y&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.fem Zld5Wp47oGW-MjdRsAGkRL1UbNSsHe-idbHQ-c-jFNOXHvXhL1kSa_qQlslGTm8LCzzLH5gm50HNHdhAmX0cjXSQt 1UUse8RNKuXUPxOhvuFguGIQF8eTOV3avukcEmzvtHasvzQzFP turE8yhLPK5AlLcJNKsaxRGXPE1hzRBtLvQUAknTrFKpIV_yXb VmSEaAOSRCG9HrdzW-BozegzoR4Q_zOLkEEEL01DjH8bvV5Fwxofy-G5rFw4Wn72JaZ3WuvjjNVDA6aBxLEggd08z51Uo9C0bNRg6A5a Zoc.l7cPPV_DsT4NM8W0j0D7KLo2qU0jlJ6qnL8vXnBLM7Q&di b_tag=se&keywords=metripack%2B630%2Bcrimper&qid=17 73416116&s=hi&sprefix=metripack%2B630%2Bcrim%2Ctoo ls%2C244&sr=1-1&th=1
I still don't recommend it.
Let me know if you want more details/explanations, just ask, I do automotive wiring for a living.Last edited by Bebop; 03-13-2026, 07:37 AM.
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Dumb question cause I'm a dummy when it comes to anything wiring related; how do I wire the front aux fan controller to run a SPAL fan? I figure its just + and - but they're different thicknesses and i dont know which on the controller is which, also should I cut off the harness plug on the fan wiring and just splice the wires to the controller’s?
The intent is to have the front aux fan controller (front fan and shroud removed) running the SPAL 14” fan thats mounted in Zionsville shroud as main fan. Thanks!
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Success!Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
Contact cement. Nothing super special is needed here since it's tightly fitted. I used this for Alcantara https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-2590...5&sr=8-11&th=1

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For anyone confused about this in the future: Upon closer inspection, it turns out the new ones are built into the cowl lol.Originally posted by ATB88 View PostI need help with windshield wiper arm reinstallation -- specifically the weird plastic gaskets.
I replaced my windshield cowl a few months back, and while I was taking it apart I noticed that there were some cracked/crumbled up plastic washers where the wiper arm attaches to the cowl that needed to be replaced. So I looked up the parts and ordered them, but now have no idea how they go back together?
The gasket sets are different for either wiper -- there's this pair and this pair. They're slightly different but seem to serve the same function.
What I don't understand is how it all goes back together? Each set of washers is asymmetric (they come in pairs and in each pair one is different from the other), and it's not clear where in the stack of objects they go, in which order, and which way they face. I've looked up several youtube videos that go over cowl/wiper arm replacement and they don't talk about them at all.
Anyone know how these go together? Does one go underneath the cowl? Feel kinda dumb because I can do rod bearings but can't seem to figure this out ¯\_(ツ)/¯
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Thanks - going to pick up a tube of it today!Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
Contact cement. Nothing super special is needed here since it's tightly fitted. I used this for Alcantara https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-2590...5&sr=8-11&th=1
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Ime getting roadside assistance through your existing insurance carrier is cheaper and easier.Originally posted by PSUEng View PostI keep getting AAA mail, it seems every letter offers their best deal ever. My M3 is maintained as best I can and I'd call it "reliable" but it never really goes very far from home. My truck is a 2022 Toyota and my wife's car is still under warranty with free roadside. Interested in thoughts on AAA or some other such roadside assistance "plan". I'd like to know I could get a tow, but I can change my own tires and generally don't find running out of fuel a risk, hence my reluctance to get AAA or something like it.
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AAA save my ass a few times lol. I have had two alternator die and one trip took almost exactly 50 miles to get it back (the other was 20 miles or so). Definitely saved me a costly tow. Both tow drivers were cool and had no problems with my lowered ride height (flatbed tow trucks both times).
(I have AAA insurance as well.)Last edited by zzyzx85; 03-02-2026, 04:39 PM.
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Contact cement. Nothing super special is needed here since it's tightly fitted. I used this for Alcantara https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-2590...5&sr=8-11&th=1Originally posted by davidinnyc View PostAdhesive recommendation?
I purchased this illuminated shift knob used but it came without the shift trim plastic, so I had to purchase an old leather boot donor on eBay to pull the trim.
I'll clean up the really old, hardened combination of leather and adhesive, but what would be an appropriate adhesive to use to join the leather and the plastic?

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AAA is good to have. Only thing is they always like to throw a fuss about the car being low.
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AAA's been invaluable to me on several occasions. Got a blown out tire up in the angeles national forest 30 miles from civilization that would have been a $300 tow. Also paid off big when I locked my keys in my g-body 911 which is resistant to the ways that techs usually get into locked cars, and they had to have a real locksmith come and cut a new key by hand on the spot.Originally posted by PSUEng View PostI keep getting AAA mail, it seems every letter offers their best deal ever. My M3 is maintained as best I can and I'd call it "reliable" but it never really goes very far from home. My truck is a 2022 Toyota and my wife's car is still under warranty with free roadside. Interested in thoughts on AAA or some other such roadside assistance "plan". I'd like to know I could get a tow, but I can change my own tires and generally don't find running out of fuel a risk, hence my reluctance to get AAA or something like it.
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I keep getting AAA mail, it seems every letter offers their best deal ever. My M3 is maintained as best I can and I'd call it "reliable" but it never really goes very far from home. My truck is a 2022 Toyota and my wife's car is still under warranty with free roadside. Interested in thoughts on AAA or some other such roadside assistance "plan". I'd like to know I could get a tow, but I can change my own tires and generally don't find running out of fuel a risk, hence my reluctance to get AAA or something like it.
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I can't recall how the Bilsteins installed but it looks like there is one step on the lower part in the photo and I believe that's the step it rests on inside the knuckle. There should also be a tab or pin that slots into the knuckle.Originally posted by Bebop View PostDo you guys know if this Bilstein strut needs to be inserted all the way in the knuckle until it hits the shoulder?
As you can see the strut wasn’t inserted all the way in the vehicle and im wondering if that’s normal or not.
nota : I purchased the car with them already on and am trying to unfuck some of the work done by the previous owner and the bilstein instructions are terrible.
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Do you guys know if this Bilstein strut needs to be inserted all the way in the knuckle until it hits the shoulder?
As you can see the strut wasn’t inserted all the way in the vehicle and im wondering if that’s normal or not.
nota : I purchased the car with them already on and am trying to unfuck some of the work done by the previous owner and the bilstein instructions are terrible.
1 PhotoLast edited by Bebop; 03-02-2026, 07:07 AM.
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