Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Tbonem3]

do i really need to run the O2's post SS sec1 cats?

TIA


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No, no car needs rear o2s except to complete the emissions drivecycles for smog inspection.

FWIW, the SS HJS catted sect 1 does pass CA SMOG. I leave my rear o2s in and leave the pipes in, just swap the airbox.

[fattycharged]

do i really need to run the O2's post SS sec1 cats?

TIA


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[Barracooda]

Its supposed to be but looks like the friction welds have failed and the panel separated.

So that's what the rough circles are around the edges, it's where it used to be attached. This makes sense, my splash pan is a little beat up, and it explains why I couldn't find that part separately.

[E46 M3]

Damn it I'm back to 2nd crank starts, solved it by buying the Hella branded fuel pump 3 years ago so I figured I'd buy another one but it's doubled in price since then lol.

[jayjaya29]

I thought those two pieces were glued/"welded" together no?

Its supposed to be but looks like the friction welds have failed and the panel separated.

[Cubieman]

I thought those two pieces were glued/"welded" together no?

[Barracooda]

This looks like the insert piece on the main splash panel, see pics here:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...uine-bmw-part/

Thank you, those pictures help a ton. I didn't realize I needed to have this piece inserted into the main splash pan on assembly, makes perfect sense now.

[jayjaya29]

I've got another dumb question, where the heck does this splash guard / shroud thing go? It's got a part number on it, 51717895092, which I haven't been able to find in any of the diagrams or for sale. I took it off at some point while refreshing the cooling system and never could find the proper place for it upon reassembly.

It somewhat fits around the oil cooler, but didn't seem quite right. I've watched every video I can think of and haven't seen it. The part number is only 1 digit off from the big belly pan / splash guard (51717895091).

This looks like the insert piece on the main splash panel, see pics here:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-21177-51717895091-genuine-bmw-part/

[Barracooda]

I've got another dumb question, where the heck does this splash guard / shroud thing go? It's got a part number on it, 51717895092, which I haven't been able to find in any of the diagrams or for sale. I took it off at some point while refreshing the cooling system and never could find the proper place for it upon reassembly.

It somewhat fits around the oil cooler, but didn't seem quite right. I've watched every video I can think of and haven't seen it. The part number is only 1 digit off from the big belly pan / splash guard (51717895091).

[Barracooda]

What's the purpose of this smooth hole machined into the head? There's one at the front and rear, only thing I can think of is maybe they use it to lift the engines during assembly?

[bavarian3]

What is the exhaust manifold stud torque spec? Was contemplating the extended N54 bolts, but couldn’t find the torque setting in that giant torque spec PDF.

Good and tight should do for the nuts you can't get to with a torque wrench.

[Cubieman]

Nearing winter storage time and getting a plan together. I don't have much experience on the coding/tuning side of things so wanted to put this out there for the group.

On the '25-26 winter list:
Rod Bearings
SMG>Manual swap
Euro headers & section 1

Sometime slightly later:
Karbonius airbox

Does it make any difference the order of upgrades or amount of changes as it relates to the DME? For now, I think I'm planning on doing the three things listed, then getting the DME reflashed for the manual swap and a canned tune. Then at some later point, do the airbox and finish with a dyno tune. Part of me wants to just do all of it this winter but I generally don't like doing so many changes at once. I have everything on hand minus the airbox, might order that next week.

If you are the paranoid type (like me) maybe at least do just the RB's and drive it when you can, that way you don't introduce new sounds etc. and think it's something it's not.

[Keith_MN]

Nearing winter storage time and getting a plan together. I don't have much experience on the coding/tuning side of things so wanted to put this out there for the group.

On the '25-26 winter list:
Rod Bearings
SMG>Manual swap
Euro headers & section 1

Sometime slightly later:
Karbonius airbox

Does it make any difference the order of upgrades or amount of changes as it relates to the DME? For now, I think I'm planning on doing the three things listed, then getting the DME reflashed for the manual swap and a canned tune. Then at some later point, do the airbox and finish with a dyno tune. Part of me wants to just do all of it this winter but I generally don't like doing so many changes at once. I have everything on hand minus the airbox, might order that next week.

[Cubieman]

On a side note, if you are using SSV1's I would skip the n54 studs, they are much longer and make lining up the header flanges a pain as they get crammed between the now longer studs/frame rail area.

I got my SSV1'S just after they had some bad batches with misaligned flanges, mine seemed to be straight but maybe not completely so maybe that was my hangup. I actually had to ever so slightly enlarge a few of the flange holes to get them to install

Euro headers etc. should be no problem.

Also, I feel bad that I put N54 parts on my S54, yuck.

[jayjaya29]

The torque on the stud isnt probably very high, it will be the torque on the nut that applies the clamping force to the head. Even if the stud was threaded in hand tight, it would still provide adequate clamping force.