Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Keith_MN]

I've been struggling with an Autosolutions SSK installation. Finally got the shift arm carrier inside the transmission ears and it looks to me like it's 99% aligned but the pin won't go in. Any tips to get the last 1% adjustment?

I did as well. I believe what got it done was massaging two pry bars. One between the tunnel and the pin to create pressure on the pin. Another wiggling underneath, above, etc to get the end of the pin to line up with the trans. I found that mine needed to be tweaked to set it. Few hundred miles on it now, feels great.

[karter16]

What replacement options do we have for the gas pedal? I'm getting a consistent limp mode on the track car that has me stumped.

112

70

YES

Pedal-position sensor, comparison fault

06

B5

08

09

So far I've only replaced the pedal with a 60k mile unit off Ebay but the code persists. Do we need a particular pedal for the M3? The 60k unit was off a random E46 PN: 35406753518. The original pedal on my car was PN 35406762480. Although the PN shown on real OEM is 35426786281.

All of these are different and would make me believe that this pedal should be interchangeable between cars. Even the Bimmerworld listing shows all E46 models as compatible. Would our cars specify this issue being a TPS fault? Or does it just point to pedal sensor regardless?

Any help here is appreciated!

The pedal has two position sensors in it, one that measures a 0-5V range and the other measures a 0-2.5V range. The DME compares the readings from the two to ensure that they both agree on the position of the pedal.

When you swapped the pedal did you do the adaption/learning process? as I think the DME has to learn the ranges the new pedal is reporting.

Second thing would be to look at the actual values the DME is seeing from those two sensors and see whether it's that they're not quite aligning, or no signal at all from one of them (could point to wiring issue), etc.

[Slideways]

What replacement options do we have for the gas pedal? I'm getting a consistent limp mode on the track car that has me stumped.

112

70

YES

Pedal-position sensor, comparison fault

06

B5

08

09

So far I've only replaced the pedal with a 60k mile unit off Ebay but the code persists. Do we need a particular pedal for the M3? The 60k unit was off a random E46 PN: 35406753518. The original pedal on my car was PN 35406762480. Although the PN shown on real OEM is 35426786281.

All of these are different and would make me believe that this pedal should be interchangeable between cars. Even the Bimmerworld listing shows all E46 models as compatible. Would our cars specify this issue being a TPS fault? Or does it just point to pedal sensor regardless?

Any help here is appreciated!

If it is not the pedal, it could be one of the other TPSs. After that, I would check that the throttle actuator plastic rod end joint does not have play or a crack in it.

All E46 pedals are the same (other than autos which have a removable kickdown switch) with certain part numbers being superseded. 518 should work. If there is 30 day returns, you can try another pedal.

Edit: First try what karter16 posted below.

[Darbshaw]

What replacement options do we have for the gas pedal? I'm getting a consistent limp mode on the track car that has me stumped.

112

70

YES

Pedal-position sensor, comparison fault

06

B5

08

09

So far I've only replaced the pedal with a 60k mile unit off Ebay but the code persists. Do we need a particular pedal for the M3? The 60k unit was off a random E46 PN: 35406753518. The original pedal on my car was PN 35406762480. Although the PN shown on real OEM is 35426786281.

All of these are different and would make me believe that this pedal should be interchangeable between cars. Even the Bimmerworld listing shows all E46 models as compatible. Would our cars specify this issue being a TPS fault? Or does it just point to pedal sensor regardless?

Any help here is appreciated!

[Marc E46M3]

Carly is good but it isnt free, yearly subscription.

Thanks, dude. Much appreciated.

[DJAM3]

I've been struggling with an Autosolutions SSK installation. Finally got the shift arm carrier inside the transmission ears and it looks to me like it's 99% aligned but the pin won't go in. Any tips to get the last 1% adjustment?

[0-60motorsports]

Hey fellas - I have an SMG, and the car turned off on me unexpectedly yesterday. Good thing I was near my house, and I was able to quickly restart the car. I did some research and suspect it may be related to the "salmon relay" so I ordered one. I also want to get a good scanner/coder to diagnose the issue and future issues. I'm reading online that there are Bluetooth coders that will work with smartphones now. Any good scanner/coder that you of to recommend?

Carly is good but it isnt free, yearly subscription.

[Marc E46M3]

Hey fellas - I have an SMG, and the car turned off on me unexpectedly yesterday. Good thing I was near my house, and I was able to quickly restart the car. I did some research and suspect it may be related to the "salmon relay" so I ordered one. I also want to get a good scanner/coder to diagnose the issue and future issues. I'm reading online that there are Bluetooth coders that will work with smartphones now. Any good scanner/coder that you of to recommend?

[ljmartyre]

3D print or have someone 3D print a tool for you - https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/c...-install-tools

Corteco (OE for BMW) seal is about $14 and you should only need one, maybe two with the tool. The crappy part is if it leaks for whatever reason, those four TTY bolts are not cheap. A good DIYer should be able to handle this without issue.

Somehow I don't know anyone with a 3D printer, but I cant imagine it being hard to find locally. Thank you!
I bought 1 OE and 2 Corteco seals just in case. The bolts are definitely annoyingly priced, no doubt.

It is a pain. See here for my most recent experience: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...661#post309661

Man, looks to be. Some solid info in there. I'm going to PM you with a question or two if you don't mind.

[heinzboehmer]

Ok so after deep diving on several things over the last few weeks I’ve come to a crossroads.
I’m a heavy DIY person, and the last oil leak to tackle on this car is the FMS.
Most of the threads say it’s a pain in the ass, and without taking the timing cover off - it’s even harder.
People routinely have said they went through/ ruined several seals before getting it installed correctly.
Problem is, it’s not a $6 seal anymore so I’m a bit trepidatious.

I’d like to avoid taking the entire timing cover off to do this, and also avoid sourcing/ buying a special tool that I’ll literally only use once. Thoughts?

It is a pain. See here for my most recent experience: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...661#post309661

[Slideways]

Ok so after deep diving on several things over the last few weeks I’ve come to a crossroads.
I’m a heavy DIY person, and the last oil leak to tackle on this car is the FMS.
Most of the threads say it’s a pain in the ass, and without taking the timing cover off - it’s even harder.
People routinely have said they went through/ ruined several seals before getting it installed correctly.
Problem is, it’s not a $6 seal anymore so I’m a bit trepidatious.

I’d like to avoid taking the entire timing cover off to do this, and also avoid sourcing/ buying a special tool that I’ll literally only use once. Thoughts?

3D print or have someone 3D print a tool for you - https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/c...-install-tools

Corteco (OE for BMW) seal is about $14 and you should only need one, maybe two with the tool. The crappy part is if it leaks for whatever reason, those four TTY bolts are not cheap. A good DIYer should be able to handle this without issue.

[bavarian3]

Ok so after deep diving on several things over the last few weeks I’ve come to a crossroads.
I’m a heavy DIY person, and the last oil leak to tackle on this car is the FMS.
Most of the threads say it’s a pain in the ass, and without taking the timing cover off - it’s even harder.
People routinely have said they went through/ ruined several seals before getting it installed correctly.
Problem is, it’s not a $6 seal anymore so I’m a bit trepidatious.

I’d like to avoid taking the entire timing cover off to do this, and also avoid sourcing/ buying a special tool that I’ll literally only use once. Thoughts?

heinzboehmer

[ljmartyre]

Ok so after deep diving on several things over the last few weeks I’ve come to a crossroads.
I’m a heavy DIY person, and the last oil leak to tackle on this car is the FMS.
Most of the threads say it’s a pain in the ass, and without taking the timing cover off - it’s even harder.
People routinely have said they went through/ ruined several seals before getting it installed correctly.
Problem is, it’s not a $6 seal anymore so I’m a bit trepidatious.

I’d like to avoid taking the entire timing cover off to do this, and also avoid sourcing/ buying a special tool that I’ll literally only use once. Thoughts?

[Slideways]

VANOS Oil Line: Are we replacing with Genuine part, or some other aftermarket piece?

If the original line with one tab is install as described in TIS, it should be fine. Some of the failures might be down to not installing it properly and putting tension on the line. TIS gives three steps to install that line.

[Cubieman]

VANOS Oil Line: Are we replacing with Genuine part, or some other aftermarket piece?

The genuine part was revised at some point, not sure when.

I bought a genuine years ago but they are so expensive now a Bimmerwold or Rogue would be the way to go all things considered, $50 vs $330.