Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Nate047]

Which ones aren't aligned? Is it the 4 RACP points or the RSM points? I’d definitely wait till the car is on the ground and loaded to work out what needs to be adjusted

I do need to check it again with everything in place, but it was the rear two holes. There was also a problem with the front two but I can't remember exactly what it was.

[karter16]

Mannnnn. The spacers are wrong, the holes are wrong, gotta love it.

I'm going to have to over drill the holes a little I think. I can't just force it over the threads on those bolts.

Which ones aren't aligned? Is it the 4 RACP points or the RSM points? I’d definitely wait till the car is on the ground and loaded to work out what needs to be adjusted

[Nate047]

I don't have any photos of the spacers I received but basically exactly the same thing but thinner (same thickness as the hex).

Re fitment - mine was absolutely perfect. Did a check with the car in the air (without removing the nuts on the RSMs) and it seemed fine and then installed for real on the ground - dropped straight in. I have heard of others needing to apply some leverage to get fitment (rear strut bars in general, not Yurkan specifically) so maybe depends a bit on individual chassis and whether it's moved at all over time?

I think you’ll love it once you’re done - I couldn’t believe the amount of difference it made to my car.

Mannnnn. The spacers are wrong, the holes are wrong, gotta love it.

I’m going to have to over drill the holes a little I think. I can’t just force it over the threads on those bolts.

[karter16]

Also I should clarify something, I don't actually have the brace installed and working yet. I have cut the studs though. I'm
actually curious if you guys had any fitment problems? I tried mocking it up on the car when the car is on quick jacks and the studs do not line up with the holes. I'm wondering if they will when the car is on the ground… 🤔

I don't have any photos of the spacers I received but basically exactly the same thing but thinner (same thickness as the hex).

Re fitment - mine was absolutely perfect. Did a check with the car in the air (without removing the nuts on the RSMs) and it seemed fine and then installed for real on the ground - dropped straight in. I have heard of others needing to apply some leverage to get fitment (rear strut bars in general, not Yurkan specifically) so maybe depends a bit on individual chassis and whether it's moved at all over time?

I think you’ll love it once you’re done - I couldn’t believe the amount of difference it made to my car.

[Nate047]

Also I should clarify something, I don’t actually have the brace installed and working yet. I have cut the studs though. I’m
actually curious if you guys had any fitment problems? I tried mocking it up on the car when the car is on quick jacks and the studs do not line up with the holes. I’m wondering if they will when the car is on the ground… 🤔

[Nate047]

Interesting indeed, I bought mine I think early 2023? Here’s a couple pictures:

[karter16]

Which brace do you have? I have a Yurkan Cages 6-point brace. Funny though the spacers he gave me are thicker than the hex washer on the OEM bolts. So I'm using the stock bolts and I cut myself a stud using an old stock bolt, and thread them in from the top. I wasn't comfortable running a thicker spacer because of the solid aluminum CMP mounts I'm running. Dunno how much impact a few mm would have but I figured better safe than sorry(?)

Interesting! I have the Yurkan 6 point as well and the spacers are the same thickness as the hex studs. When did you buy yours? Maybe he's changed the size of them? I bought mine April 2024.


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[fattycharged]

Which brace do you have? I have a Yurkan Cages 6-point brace. Funny though the spacers he gave me are thicker than the hex washer on the OEM bolts. So I'm using the stock bolts and I cut myself a stud using an old stock bolt, and thread them in from the top. I wasn't comfortable running a thicker spacer because of the solid aluminum CMP mounts I'm running. Dunno how much impact a few mm would have but I figured better safe than sorry(?)

I did the same thing, have yet to drive it, but used stock bolts from the rear to cut and add to topside front.


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[Nate047]

Similar reason - partway had everything back together before realising I hadn't put the spacers in in place of the hex studs (RACP brace install with through bolts in place of the studs) 🙃


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Which brace do you have? I have a Yurkan Cages 6-point brace. Funny though the spacers he gave me are thicker than the hex washer on the OEM bolts. So I’m using the stock bolts and I cut myself a stud using an old stock bolt, and thread them in from the top. I wasn’t comfortable running a thicker spacer because of the solid aluminum CMP mounts I’m running. Dunno how much impact a few mm would have but I figured better safe than sorry(?)

[karter16]

Good looking out on the parking brake cables. The little brace is so already off, reason I'm in this situation is because I needed to access the diff mount bolt.

And yea one side seems like it will be not so bad for access, the other side might be harder.

Did you have to do it for the same reason by chance?

Similar reason - partway had everything back together before realising I hadn't put the spacers in in place of the hex studs (RACP brace install with through bolts in place of the studs) 🙃


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[Nate047]

Yep I did this a few weeks ago.

You also need to undo the 4 bolts that hold the v brace center bracket on.

It'll be tight access to the front left but you'll be able to do it. If you haven't already remember to undo the handbrake cables at the handbrake end before you lower and make sure you don't go so low it excessively bends the cables.


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Good looking out on the parking brake cables. The little brace is so already off, reason I’m in this situation is because I needed to access the diff mount bolt.

And yea one side seems like it will be not so bad for access, the other side might be harder.

Did you have to do it for the same reason by chance?

[karter16]

Can I lower my rear subframe by like 10-15mm if I just loosen the 4 mount bolts, and don't touch anything else? Is there anything that won't move enough to allow that? Driveshaft and exhaust are already off. I have a trans jack on loan from a buddy to support things.

I need to lower it enough to get a wrench on those hex washers built into the front mounting studs. The nuts on those two studs were stuck, leading to me driving the stud out of the car as I was trying to remove the nuts, pushing the subframe away from the body a little. I was able to drive one of them back into place using the two nut method, but unfortunately the other side is being a bastard and not releasing from the stud. Trying to avoid fully dropping the subframe obviously lol. Haven't tried a blow torch yet, possible that heat might help the nut let go of the stud? I had this nut off and then I thought oh I'll put it back in place temporarily to hold things, and now it won't let go of the threads. Just spins the stud and pulls it out. Fuckin love this car sometimes.

Yep I did this a few weeks ago.

You also need to undo the 4 bolts that hold the v brace center bracket on.

It'll be tight access to the front left but you'll be able to do it. If you haven't already remember to undo the handbrake cables at the handbrake end before you lower and make sure you don't go so low it excessively bends the cables.


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[Nate047]

Can I lower my rear subframe by like 10-15mm if I just loosen the 4 mount bolts, and don’t touch anything else? Is there anything that won’t move enough to allow that? Driveshaft and exhaust are already off. I have a trans jack on loan from a buddy to support things.

I need to lower it enough to get a wrench on those hex washers built into the front mounting studs. The nuts on those two studs were stuck, leading to me driving the stud out of the car as I was trying to remove the nuts, pushing the subframe away from the body a little. I was able to drive one of them back into place using the two nut method, but unfortunately the other side is being a bastard and not releasing from the stud. Trying to avoid fully dropping the subframe obviously lol. Haven’t tried a blow torch yet, possible that heat might help the nut let go of the stud? I had this nut off and then I thought oh I’ll put it back in place temporarily to hold things, and now it won’t let go of the threads. Just spins the stud and pulls it out. Fuckin love this car sometimes.

[oceansize]

I just did mine. BMW vcg for sure. I went bmw for everything but others may have used something else. Again VCG is strictly bmw, do not deviate. Replace whatever is brittle.

[Slideways]

What's the latest on valve cover gaskets? I can't remember which ones we want to avoid.

How often do the spark plug tube seals need to be replaced?

Other grommets included in the valve cover gasket kits?

The BMW VCG is made by Bruss and is only available from BMW.

The OE spark plug tube gaskets have EK written on them, which I presume is for Elring Klinger, similar to the original cylinder head gasket.

A few people have had issues with only the Elring VCG.