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  • Arclitgold
    replied
    Thanks everyone!

    Leave a comment:


  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by Slideways View Post

    It will take longer to get to operating temp if you idle it, which also means the ECU will run the engine richer for longer and that can cause more fuel to end up in the oil, thinning it out. All bad stuff for a modern engine.

    Fire it up, wait 10 seconds or so, and drive off with light throttle input while preferably keeping it under 3k RPMs. Once the oil temp starts to rise, medium throttle input and 4k RPM is fine. Once at operating temp (200F oil temp), rip it 8k RPM
    ^ This

    Also, combustion quality sucks when the engine is cold, so there are a lot of byproducts that also end up in the oil.

    Idling up to temp seems reasonable because you're running the engine as gently as possible until the oil heats up and isn't super thick any more. But it takes much longer to get to that point than it would if you just drove off, and in that time all the other problems with cold engine running are worse. So, on balance, better to give it just enough time for the oil to make it to the top end and then drive gently until everything's warm.

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  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by Arclitgold View Post
    The owners manual says to not warm the car up by idling… but it seems weird to not let the carget up to temp. What does the hive mind say about this?
    It will take longer to get to operating temp if you idle it, which also means the ECU will run the engine richer for longer and that can cause more fuel to end up in the oil, thinning it out. All bad stuff for a modern engine.

    Fire it up, wait 10 seconds or so, and drive off with light throttle input while preferably keeping it under 3k RPMs. Once the oil temp starts to rise, medium throttle input and 4k RPM is fine. Once at operating temp (200F oil temp), rip it 8k RPM

    Disregard the warmup lights on the tach unless you get them recalibrated. The warmup lights turn off a bit too quickly with the factory settings.
    Last edited by Slideways; 10-15-2025, 05:37 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by elrichmeister View Post

    I let it idle for about 1-2 minutes, then drive conservatively (keep rpms below 3.5L) until oil temp reaches 1/4 marker, usually about 10 min or so depending on ambient temps.
    SAme for me in summer plus i have the CSL warm up lights coded so that is a good helper too. Its so damn hot here even if i drove off after 1 min warm up the car will be up to water temps fast LOL

    Leave a comment:


  • elrichmeister
    replied
    Originally posted by Arclitgold View Post
    The owners manual says to not warm the car up by idling… but it seems weird to not let the carget up to temp. What does the hive mind say about this?
    I let it idle for about 1-2 minutes, then drive conservatively (keep rpms below 3.5k) until oil temp reaches 1/4 marker, usually about 10 min or so depending on ambient temps.
    Last edited by elrichmeister; 10-14-2025, 10:02 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by Arclitgold View Post
    The owners manual says to not warm the car up by idling… but it seems weird to not let the carget up to temp. What does the hive mind say about this?
    Why ask this question here? Now the threads gonna erupt LOL.

    I have used the following rule since i started driving.....

    Summer: start vehicle let it idle for a minimum of 2 mins then start driving normally and no full throttle etc. until waters in the middle and oil near the middle.
    Winter/Cooler weather: start vehicle let it idle for a minimum of 5-10 (depends on how cold it gets where you are) mins then start driving normally and no full throttle etc. until waters in the middle and oil near the middle.

    The above formula works here for me in Bahrain for 29 years approximately. Also here summers are brutal 125f plus and winter don't really exist but i just call it nice weather....

    Leave a comment:


  • Arclitgold
    replied
    The owners manual says to not warm the car up by idling… but it seems weird to not let the carget up to temp. What does the hive mind say about this?

    Leave a comment:


  • Kipjames3
    replied
    Does anybody know if this is the rubber mat that fits in the long part of the euro tray?

    https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-86240-51168242843-genuine-bmw-part/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21128500759&gbraid=0A AAAAD_rX5aP8v2sYibcSG6tIJkCRBxGr&gclid=CjwKCAjwxrL HBhA2EiwAu9EdMxlJajkMH-UJNhjoVo3Udn-X2oJjZQ8a4_lxS8SSeTuIIrsV-4sc6hoCU1EQAvD_BwE

    What's the best flush spacer set up for OEM ZCP wheels?
    Last edited by Kipjames3; 10-14-2025, 01:19 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • elrichmeister
    replied
    Originally posted by elrichmeister View Post

    Fortunately I did have a borescope and manged to find the earbud. I ended up ordering a bendy grabber tool and should be here tomorrow.

    Thanks for the response.
    Well bendy grabber was a success was able to grab it without any drama. Im glad i was able to save my earbud and not smell burning plastic.

    recorded the action for fun

    Leave a comment:


  • elrichmeister
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    There's really nothing down there to worry about, maybe with a borescope or small mirror/one of the those bendy grabber tools you could get it?

    If/when parts of it melt and you smell that.

    The throttle actuator is under the plenum, but the chances an earbud would gum up the works there are so remote I don't even know why I typed this!
    Fortunately I did have a borescope and manged to find the earbud. I ended up ordering a bendy grabber tool and should be here tomorrow.

    Thanks for the response.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by elrichmeister View Post
    Ok my dumb question.

    Was swapping back my eventuri intake, and one of my wireless earbuds, fell out of my ear while leaning over the engine bay and fell into engine bay, tried to use a telescoping magnet to get in back, but was too weak of magnetic force and it fell in deeper in.

    I don't care about the ear bud, just wondering if I should be concerned about that ear bud in the engine bay with the tiny lithium battery, not sure if it will fall into something mechanical. I can't tell where it went anymore, but here it's the area it fell into.

    Click image for larger version Name:	PXL_20251012_195154729~2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	105.4 KB ID:	322692
    There's really nothing down there to worry about, maybe with a borescope or small mirror/one of the those bendy grabber tools you could get it?

    If/when parts of it melt and you smell that.

    The throttle actuator is under the plenum, but the chances an earbud would gum up the works there are so remote I don't even know why I typed this!

    Leave a comment:


  • elrichmeister
    replied
    Ok my dumb question.

    Was swapping back my eventuri intake, and one of my wireless earbuds, fell out of my ear while leaning over the engine bay and fell into engine bay, tried to use a telescoping magnet to get in back, but was too weak of magnetic force and it fell in deeper in.

    I don't care about the ear bud, just wondering if I should be concerned about that ear bud in the engine bay with the tiny lithium battery, not sure if it will fall into something mechanical. I can't tell where it went anymore, but here it's the area it fell into.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	PXL_20251012_195154729~2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	105.4 KB ID:	322692

    Leave a comment:


  • oceansize
    replied
    I'll be changing my oil today as a matter of fact, I use this one.



    Last edited by oceansize; 10-12-2025, 08:04 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    I use this one, works quite well, missed maybe
    ~.25qt, I can live with that.

    Leave a comment:


  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
    For anyone using an extractor to perform [engine] oil changes, which one are you using? I'm getting ready to order some Motive equipment for brake fluid jobs, and notice they have a 2gal extractor. I really see some benefit to something like this for engine oil changes on my truck with skid plates, and my other vehicles to avoid the extra time getting stuff on ramps.
    I used a Mityvac MV7400 to do this on a previous car (not an E46 M3). Loved it.

    Could pull the oil out with the car level – no need to either put the whole car on stands or lift just the front and accept that more oil might be left behind. Also, at the end of the drain, I could jack up one side at a time to let more oil out of the coolers.

    Leave a comment:

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