Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[bavarian3]

Sounds like Turner plates, stock RSM's with reinforcement plates, stock links to go with the Ohlin's.
I cannot wait to see what this vehicle feels like when not on BC's, still need to read up on rates and all that as my suspension knowledge base is rather limited.

I would read this, not to scare you off, but just to be prepared: link

If they show anything like "shipping on x date" I wouldn't bother. Looks like they're in stock as of now.

edit - but the 2.5" perches are not in stock 💀

[Cubieman]

If you're willing to go "all-in" like it appears you're doing you may want to also consider replacing the rear trailing arm bushings with Synchro Design Works assuming of course your have stock rubber bushings. https://syncrodesignworks.com/products/rtabs

I threw some Tuner RTAB'S in along with CMP S.F bushes when I did the Vincebar. I do wish I would have gone with the SDW's as they are more easy to rebuild.

[BMWE46M3]

Sounds like Turner plates, stock RSM's with reinforcement plates, stock links to go with the Ohlin's.
I cannot wait to see what this vehicle feels like when not on BC's, still need to read up on rates and all that as my suspension knowledge base is rather limited.

If you're willing to go "all-in" like it appears you're doing you may want to also consider replacing the rear trailing arm bushings with Synchro Design Works assuming of course your have stock rubber bushings. https://syncrodesignworks.com/products/rtabs

[Cubieman]

Sounds like Turner plates, stock RSM's with reinforcement plates, stock links to go with the Ohlin's.
I cannot wait to see what this vehicle feels like when not on BC's, still need to read up on rates and all that as my suspension knowledge base is rather limited.

[fattycharged]

Thinking of buying some Ohlin's R&T to replace my shit BC coilovers, this is a 90% street driven car.

- What camber plates should I be looking at that are good for the street and quality?

- RSM's I am thinking stock but if some Vorshlag or similar RSM's don't add a ton of NVH I could go that way too.

- I don't see endlinks included, what's a popular option here with the R&T's?

TMS hybrids are nice


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[Slideways]

Roads are actually pretty good here.
So the Turner plates plates are considered a decent product as compared to a Vorshlag/G.C?

Yes, they mimic the factory plates but include camber and caster adjustment. GC is another good street option as they use a bushing and the factory INA bearing. Vorshlag use a spherical bearing instead of a bushing.

[IamFODI]

Thinking of buying some Ohlin's R&T to replace my shit BC coilovers

As the well-known philosopher Pete Mitchell once said:

"Don't think – just do."

[zzyzx85]

I've been happy with Ground Control suspension components. Currently using GC Street camber plates, RSM, and front endlinks.

[Cubieman]

How is road quality where you live?

Turner street camber plates are like stock in terms of NVH. Same goes for TCK or Rogue rubber RSMs. If your stock RSMs are still in good shape, I'd just reuse those. The only nice feature of those aftermarket RSMs is that the nuts to remove the damper can be accessed from the wheel well rather than from the trunk.

Roads are actually pretty good here.
So the Turner plates plates are considered a decent product as compared to a Vorshlag/G.C?

[bavarian3]

Thinking of buying some Ohlin's R&T to replace my shit BC coilovers, this is a 90% street driven car.

- What camber plates should I be looking at that are good for the street and quality?

- RSM's I am thinking stock but if some Vorshlag or similar RSM's don't add a ton of NVH I could go that way too.

- I don't see endlinks included, what's a popular option here with the R&T's?

I would recommend Vorshlags, I have zero complaints with mine, including NVH. Probably only harsher upon hard impacts(potholes). Order from 3dm.

Turner has good solutions apparently, but that ECS support, shipping delays, and sourcing individual hardware if needed is too much of a liability. You should consider stock which are also great with Ohlins.

I did use Turner for adjustable endlinks though, no complaints there just tighten the adjuster nuts down well.

[Slideways]

Thinking of buying some Ohlin's R&T to replace my shit BC coilovers, this is a 90% street driven car.

- What camber plates should I be looking at that are good for the street and quality?

- RSM's I am thinking stock but if some Vorshlag or similar RSM's don't add a ton of NVH I could go that way too.

- I don't see endlinks included, what's a popular option here with the R&T's?

How is road quality where you live?

Turner street camber plates are like stock in terms of NVH. Same goes for TCK or Rogue rubber RSMs. If your stock RSMs are still in good shape, I'd just reuse those. The only nice feature of those aftermarket RSMs is that the nuts to remove the damper can be accessed from the wheel well rather than from the trunk.

[dustyice]

Thinking of buying some Ohlin's R&T to replace my shit BC coilovers, this is a 90% street driven car.

- What camber plates should I be looking at that are good for the street and quality?

- RSM's I am thinking stock but if some Vorshlag or similar RSM's don't add a ton of NVH I could go that way too.

- I don't see endlinks included, what's a popular option here with the R&T's?

I have Vorshlag camber plates and have zero issues with them on my R&T's. I can not tell the diffrence in harshness from when I ran the same coils with stock camber plates.

Maybe someone else can chime in, but it is my understanding that Ohlins R&T do not require aftermaket end links.

[dustyice]

If I replace a single front swaybar endlink, is there a potential for alignment to be thrown off at all?

Context: I did endlinks and tie rods while I was doing rod bearings. A few weeks later I also replaced the front control arms because I had ripped a greased boot on one of the control arm ball joints. They had 110k and 23 years on them anyway, so, fine. In removing one of the old control arms, I had to use a torch to get the control arm off the knuckle (broke two ball joint separator tools leading up to that). In using that torch, I accidentally melted the plastic backing of one of the endlink ball joints, which is what holds the grease in on the endlink. Whoops!

So, now, I just want to replaced that one endlink that I melted. Just had the car aligned, and would like to not have to do that again... any guidance on whether or not replacing the endlink will mess alignment up? I'm pretty clueless when it comes to suspension stuff overall.

(followup question: does replacing front struts require alignment?)

Sway bar end link does not affect the allignment at all. You are good to just replace the missing one.

The strut replacement will need a reallignment as the removal process would change with your camber settings. You could always mark the location of the original bolts on the top and get it close, but if you want it exactly like it was before would probably need a reallignment.

[Cubieman]

Thinking of buying some Ohlin's R&T to replace my shit BC coilovers, this is a 90% street driven car.

- What camber plates should I be looking at that are good for the street and quality?

- RSM's I am thinking stock but if some Vorshlag or similar RSM's don't add a ton of NVH I could go that way too.

- I don't see endlinks included, what's a popular option here with the R&T's?

[ATB88]

If I replace a single front swaybar endlink, is there a potential for alignment to be thrown off at all?

Context: I did endlinks and tie rods while I was doing rod bearings. A few weeks later I also replaced the front control arms because I had ripped a greased boot on one of the control arm ball joints. They had 110k and 23 years on them anyway, so, fine. In removing one of the old control arms, I had to use a torch to get the control arm off the knuckle (broke two ball joint separator tools leading up to that). In using that torch, I accidentally melted the plastic backing of one of the endlink ball joints, which is what holds the grease in on the endlink. Whoops!

So, now, I just want to replaced that one endlink that I melted. Just had the car aligned, and would like to not have to do that again... any guidance on whether or not replacing the endlink will mess alignment up? I'm pretty clueless when it comes to suspension stuff overall.

(followup question: does replacing front struts require alignment?)