Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[IamFODI]

What do you mean by plug and play? There is modification required to run the F8X set up. If you want plug and play buy a Brembo GT kit.

^ This

YYZ-M3, you're absolutely right to think plug-and-play here. Messing with a safety-critical system just for looks is already taking things a bit far. If you're going to do this, you want the simplest possible install with absolutely top-shelf parts.

Anything that requires machining, rule it out immediately. And if you see any supposedly plug-and-play kit that's cheaper than a Brembo GT kit, there's a reason, and you should steer clear.

[Cronenberged]

I am looking for the most “plug and play” OEM BBK setup for my cabrio. I am not seeking better performance, just looks.

Is the F8X fitment the best option?
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...swap-on-e46-m3

What do you mean by plug and play? There is modification required to run the F8X set up. If you want plug and play buy a Brembo GT kit.

[YYZ-M3]

I am looking for the most “plug and play” OEM BBK setup for my cabrio. I am not seeking better performance, just looks.

Is the F8X fitment the best option?

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/36569-f8x-brembo-bbk-swap-on-e46-m3

[Slideways]

I keep trying to align my car with a string alignment and the wheel is off to the left about 2-3°.

I should have bought a quality string alignment kit, but am just using jack stands/PVC pipes. Nonetheless, once properly set it up it should yield accurate results.

I use 2 straps to center the wheel, I am almost thinking I may try one more time and bias the wheel to the right.

I am likely just going to take it to a local shop as this is getting frustrating.

Centering the wheel is easier when the front wheels are off the ground and then set back down on the ground. Either you have to move the wheel back and forth to find true dead center or the steering angle sensor might give you a reading in INPA.

The other method is to align the car first, check to see how far off the steering wheel is, and make minute adjustments to both tie rods at the same time to bring it back to center. If the steering wheel is slightly off to the left, the right tie rod needs to be shortened (ex. 1/8th of a turn) and the left tie rod needs to be lengthened (ex. 1/8th of a turn). Vice versa if it is slightly off to the right.

[Cubieman]

I keep trying to align my car with a string alignment and the wheel is off to the left about 2-3°.

I should have bought a quality string alignment kit, but am just using jack stands/PVC pipes. Nonetheless, once properly set it up it should yield accurate results.

I use 2 straps to center the wheel, I am almost thinking I may try one more time and bias the wheel to the right.

I am likely just going to take it to a local shop as this is getting frustrating.

[powerbait]

I've had the Dinan springs for a couple of years and they ride great paired with the Konis, but the rear always seemed too high. I've had set of Eibachs I picked up a while back and recently threw just the rears, since it's such an easy swap. It dropped the rear just enough to not to look so raked forward. I'm not as impressed with the ride, the Dinan were a bit stiffer, maybe a few clicks on the dampers will help, but that is more involved with rear konis than I want to deal with at the moment. Subframe is coming out soon, I'll deal with it then.

[Bebop]

CSL is 13.62 F and 13.45 R according to TIS.

There is more in this thread about ride height - https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...uspension-mods

Thank you for this.
Also thank you Obioban for writing it.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with Dinan springs.

[Slideways]

Tagging on to the question of ride height, I keep seeing the suggestion of 13.5F/13R on this forum in regards to aftermarket suspension, why such a difference?

I have TCK's, I wonder about doing 13.5 all around, or 13.25 all around, why have less travel in the rear?

Also, I personally don't like the asthetics of such a noticeable ride height difference front to rear.

CSL is 13.62 F and 13.45 R according to TIS.

There is more in this thread about ride height - https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...uspension-mods

[IamFODI]

Tagging on to the question of ride height, I keep seeing the suggestion of 13.5F/13R on this forum in regards to aftermarket suspension, why such a difference?

I have TCK's, I wonder about doing 13.5 all around, or 13.25 all around, why have less travel in the rear?

Also, I personally don't like the asthetics of such a noticeable ride height difference front to rear.

AFAIK...

The front fenders just have more clearance designed into them to account for steering. So, as far as the chassis itself is concerned, equal front and rear fender gaps would mean more rake. Stock rake or less will always mean more fender gap in front than in rear.

[Cubieman]

Tagging on to the question of ride height, I keep seeing the suggestion of 13.5F/13R on this forum in regards to aftermarket suspension, why such a difference?

I have TCK's, I wonder about doing 13.5 all around, or 13.25 all around, why have less travel in the rear?

Also, I personally don't like the asthetics of such a noticeable ride height difference front to rear.

[adr_M3]

Thanks for the reply.
I have some GC street camber plates already installed. Probably should have mentioned that.
Unfortunately, coilovers aren't in the budget at the moment.
Mainly wondering if I should go with Eibach or Dinan...

I recently refreshed my suspension with Bilstein B6s and Eibach springs and the combination is working well for me; the ride firm but not harsh in any way, and this is on pothole plagued LA roads.

[Tbonem3]

Eibach might be a little cheaper or easier to find. Prob be able to get a used set from someone here for cheaper.

[jayjaya29]

Either is fine, but almost all the people that go with Dinan springs seem to like them.

[Bebop]

H&R did not make a good set of springs for this car. They give way too much of a drop up front without a comensurate amount of spring rate increase. The rear is pretty good. Then combine that with the harsh B6s (that need travel) adn you've got a bad combo. They switched up the b12 kit to go with Eibach springs later, which are much better.

Despite the harshness of bilstein, I still think b6s are better than koni yellows. Just need to get a set of Eibach or Dinan springs if you wish to keep that stock style of shock/spring combo. Or look at coilovers. I would suggest nothing cheaper than pss10 or kwv2s. Camber plates (GC or TMS street) would also give the b6 struts more travel up front which would improve things.

Thanks for the reply.
I have some GC street camber plates already installed. Probably should have mentioned that.
Unfortunately, coilovers aren't in the budget at the moment.
Mainly wondering if I should go with Eibach or Dinan...

[Tbonem3]

Is there a database of vehicle height depending on which shocks / springs combo is installed?

I've got some B6 / H&R on mine and the ride is awful, especially the front end. I live in TN, drive on backroads with less than stellar pavement etc and I don't want to deal with that.

I am trying to go back to a higher / more compliant setup and am wondering which direction to head towards.

After reading a whole bunch, I think the Dinan springs are what is the most recommended.
I also read the B6s are lifting the car over stock.
The current setup is about 13" in front, 13.25" in the rear. The rear is good and feels decent, so maybe I'm wondering about just swapping the front springs.
Has anyone tried that?

H&R did not make a good set of springs for this car. They give way too much of a drop up front without a comensurate amount of spring rate increase. The rear is pretty good. Then combine that with the harsh B6s (that need travel) adn you've got a bad combo. They switched up the b12 kit to go with Eibach springs later, which are much better.

Despite the harshness of bilstein, I still think b6s are better than koni yellows. Just need to get a set of Eibach or Dinan springs if you wish to keep that stock style of shock/spring combo. Or look at coilovers. I would suggest nothing cheaper than pss10 or kwv2s. Camber plates (GC or TMS street) would also give the b6 struts more travel up front which would improve things.