Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Slideways]

Here’s a kicker:
I used an impact (Milwaukee stubby) to tighten my strut top nut (PSS10s on Turner hybrid camber plates) after watching Vorshlag’s YouTube channel saying an impact is the best way to do it. I did a few zaps off the car and then a few more when the car was loaded to ensure all is tight. I did see what I believe to be the shaft spinning because after the nut was tight, what was underneath the nut kept spinning. I didn’t hold the trigger long, just a few turns per zap. However now I hear a slight noise when I go over bumps. Almost like a thud. I have the upper coil spring shim on so no metal on metal, it’s almost like a clunk but not really. I do have the knob turned to 7 so will be turning it down and rechecking to see if maybe that’s the problem. But I’m just concerned now that since I used the impact, I ruined the shocks. Any way I can to check to see if I did damage to the shocks without having to remove them and send them out to evaluate?

I don't know what that says about Vorshlag if they are saying to do exactly what most instructions say not to do lol

My guess is the top nut is not torqued enough. There are those special $15 sockets that have an access hole in them to allow you to counter hold the shaft with a hex key while torquing down the nut. Or if you have a Harbor Freight down the street, they have those cheap angle wrenches that will get the job done as well. Second guess is the sway bar endlink is not torqued to spec.

[sbay]

Here’s a kicker:
I used an impact (Milwaukee stubby) to tighten my strut top nut (PSS10s on Turner hybrid camber plates) after watching Vorshlag’s YouTube channel saying an impact is the best way to do it. I did a few zaps off the car and then a few more when the car was loaded to ensure all is tight. I did see what I believe to be the shaft spinning because after the nut was tight, what was underneath the nut kept spinning. I didn’t hold the trigger long, just a few turns per zap. However now I hear a slight noise when I go over bumps. Almost like a thud. I have the upper coil spring shim on so no metal on metal, it’s almost like a clunk but not really. I do have the knob turned to 7 so will be turning it down and rechecking to see if maybe that’s the problem. But I’m just concerned now that since I used the impact, I ruined the shocks. Any way I can to check to see if I did damage to the shocks without having to remove them and send them out to evaluate?

[davidinnyc]

Here is a legit dumb question. What is the easiest way to post pics taken with an iPhone? I always get an error message that they need to be resized. And I have not progressed past that step. Like I said, a pretty dumb/lazy question. Thanks.

Tapatalk app!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Big Nodge]

Here is a legit dumb question. What is the easiest way to post pics taken with an iPhone? I always get an error message that they need to be resized. And I have not progressed past that step. Like I said, a pretty dumb/lazy question. Thanks.

[0-60motorsports]

Does anyone have any inside info on the availability issues of the driver's side kingpin? Some sites say backorder, others NLA.

I am not looking at CSL spindles.


P/N: 31212229855

You are right thats what i am seeing too.

Check ebay i saw a few clean ones on there.

[Cubieman]

Does anyone have any inside info on the availability issues of the driver's side kingpin? Some sites say backorder, others NLA.

I am not looking at CSL spindles.


P/N: 31212229855

[Cubieman]

Doing some searching on fuel pump lock ring tools and just like seemingly everything else there are a ton of choices. Genuine BMW tool (#161020) is out due to price, but the BAUM, AST and Schwaben offerings look very similar to the genuine tool. Then there are CTA & BavAuto tools that look similar to one another but different from the genuine tool (complete circular contact with ring vs. open sides).

For those of you using one of these tools, which brand(s) are recommended?

A large flathead does work fine, just alternate which tabs you strike as to not bend one tab up. I use a tool that can be found locally almost anywhere.
This isn't the specific one but mine is of this style.

https://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pliers-and-cutters/wrench/p/oemtools-fuel-pump-spanner-wrench/110278_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:22350 391884&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22 356757832&gbraid=0AAAAADkcoVsBbpOg6XJyXAgsHHhABO3j d&gclid=CjwKCAiA86_JBhAIEiwA4i9Ju3VwathlImS2iHrn CC xVLGtMo3W8ir6JuNNMJAEC5cD_8IFiBaivnhoCgI4QAvD_BwE

[Slideways]

Doing some searching on fuel pump lock ring tools and just like seemingly everything else there are a ton of choices. Genuine BMW tool (#161020) is out due to price, but the BAUM, AST and Schwaben offerings look very similar to the genuine tool. Then there are CTA & BavAuto tools that look similar to one another but different from the genuine tool (complete circular contact with ring vs. open sides).

For those of you using one of these tools, which brand(s) are recommended?

Cheapest one as you'll probably only use it once. Or stick with the ol' multitasker - large flat head and a hammer lol

[PSUEng]

Doing some searching on fuel pump lock ring tools and just like seemingly everything else there are a ton of choices. Genuine BMW tool (#161020) is out due to price, but the BAUM, AST and Schwaben offerings look very similar to the genuine tool. Then there are CTA & BavAuto tools that look similar to one another but different from the genuine tool (complete circular contact with ring vs. open sides).

For those of you using one of these tools, which brand(s) are recommended?

[Nate047]

I was installing transmission mounts tonight, weirded me out that they were too small at first but stretched into shape as I tightened them. That’s normal right? LOL.

And I’m curious I read a few people say make sure to not over tighten them. Why is the torque so low on these?

I also saw one or two DIY articles where the car does not have the vibration damper. Curious why someone would remove that.

[Advorsor]

Advorsor

Agree with zzyzx85 this is somewhat subjective, but the Ohlins spring rates are much higher than stock so it will feel more firm. If the roads you drive on suck it's even more unlikely to give you what you're looking for.

I went from Dinan's Koni kit(w/ shorter springs provided) to Ohlins RT(with vorshlags) and while it is firmer, it's just so much better.

Thanks guys.

[karter16]

Is there a substitute for this now apparently NLA part?
It's the "L" shaped cover for a stock CSL IAT sensor.

I used 12521732635, it looks different but functionally performs the same job.

[Cubieman]

Is there a substitute for this now apparently NLA part?

It's the "L" shaped cover for a stock CSL IAT sensor.

[karter16]

Does anyone else here have an SMG and also left foot brakes?

I think it was last year that I started to teach my left foot to brake, (more like I did on the forklift at work), and it has improved my cornering smoothness by a good margin. Trail braking is easier, and easing on the power at just the right moment is also more accurate. Since there's no clutch I can sit still in the same position and find that my right knee is much happier not having to twist to apply the brakes. My only gripe is that I have a skinny brake pedal still, I might get an e46 automatic brake pedal so that I'm even more comfortable.

Yep I do! I actually left foot brake any car that isn't a manual. I raced sprint karts as a teenager so by the time I learned to drive on the road I was already used to left foot braking. Learned in my Dad's auto Camry, braked right foot for my driving test and went right back to left foot braking. Weird as right foot braking is completely natural to me when I'm driving a manual, but any time I only have two pedals I go back to left foot braking. Aside from anything else when driving in heavy traffic/high hazard situations it's useful have my foot primed on the brake.

[bavarian3]

Advorsor

Agree with zzyzx85 this is somewhat subjective, but the Ohlins spring rates are much higher than stock so it will feel more firm. If the roads you drive on suck it's even more unlikely to give you what you're looking for.

I went from Dinan's Koni kit(w/ shorter springs provided) to Ohlins RT(with vorshlags) and while it is firmer, it's just so much better.