Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[bavarian3]

Flow heinzboehmer

Appreciate the info that helps a lot. I think this may not be worth the effort for a button. Quite a few times I almost purchased a zcp wheel and never thought about the fact that the button would be useless.

Looks like it may be easier to just go with a full button delete like Avedis has shown here

[heinzboehmer]

You n Bry5on are next level, no surprise.

While completely doable, now I'm thinking this may be more complex than I want to bother with as I'm adverse to tampering with factory wires when avoidable.

Perhaps I should try this a different way - what happens i slap this on my steering wheel, plug into the one harness female that's on there and do nothing else. I assume I just have a sole i/o button that works as it would before?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...uine-bmw-part/

You could build yourself a little adapter harness that taps into the switch center connector, so that you don't have to modify any factory wiring. Although, I do think the female connector is molded into the case for the switches, so you might have to get creative there. Maybe unpin the factory wire and move it over to your harness?

Alternatively, you could tap into the DME side of things. I got some break out boards made for the X60003 DME connector a while back: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...384#post112384 You could do something similar for X60004 (where the sport mode wire runs to) and tap into that.

The button on the ZCP trim has a wire running directly from it to a dedicated input on the ZCP MK60 that toggles M track mode on and off. Regular MK60s and MK20s do not have this extra input pin. Unfortunately, the button won't do anything if you just install it on your car without some custom wiring.

[Flow]

If I were you I wouldn't do it. Sport button in my opinion is just less throttle control, as it just makes the throttle by wire less linear and it doesn't bring any power.
Just my 2 cents

[bavarian3]

MK20 won't matter for this, sport mode is controlled by the DME (and the HW triggering mechanism is the same between non-HP and HP DMEs).

There's a bunch of different configurations for the switch panel, so lots of wiring diagrams as well. Here's an example one with the sport button labeled (look for "driving dynamics"):



IIRC, the button pulls to GND and the DME reacts accordingly. If you emulate that with the ZCP button, it should just work. I would stick a multimeter on the output pin of the button (with everything connected) and see how it's set up. Then do the same on the ZCP trim.

Here's an excellent resource on how the switch center works electrically: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...087#post246087

Another option is to swap in the E39 M5 wiper stalk. Identical to ours, except for an extra button (conveniently) labeled "S" at the end of it: 61318375407. I know for a fact that this one pulls to GND: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...950#post254950

You n Bry5on are next level, no surprise.

While completely doable, now I'm thinking this may be more complex than I want to bother with as I'm adverse to tampering with factory wires when avoidable.

Perhaps I should try this a different way - what happens i slap this on my steering wheel, plug into the one harness female that's on there and do nothing else. I assume I just have a sole i/o button that works as it would before?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-57658-32347833936-genuine-bmw-part/

[heinzboehmer]

would it be feasible to setup the i/o button on a zcp steering wheel for sport mode on a non-zcp MK20 car

MK20 won't matter for this, sport mode is controlled by the DME (and the HW triggering mechanism is the same between non-HP and HP DMEs).

There's a bunch of different configurations for the switch panel, so lots of wiring diagrams as well. Here's an example one with the sport button labeled (look for "driving dynamics"):



IIRC, the button pulls to GND and the DME reacts accordingly. If you emulate that with the ZCP button, it should just work. I would stick a multimeter on the output pin of the button (with everything connected) and see how it's set up. Then do the same on the ZCP trim.

Here's an excellent resource on how the switch center works electrically: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...087#post246087

Another option is to swap in the E39 M5 wiper stalk. Identical to ours, except for an extra button (conveniently) labeled "S" at the end of it: 61318375407. I know for a fact that this one pulls to GND: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...950#post254950

[bavarian3]

Not exactly what you are asking, but maybe helpful.

This is helpful, thanks! looks like I can easily just run another line or tap into the existing sport line

[Kipjames3]

Do sports seat's back panels fit M3 seats? Can't find a definite answer. The panels with the netting is what I'm referring to.

[D-O]

Not exactly what you are asking, but maybe helpful.

[bavarian3]

would it be feasible to setup the i/o button on a zcp steering wheel for sport mode on a non-zcp MK20 car

[ATB88]

On a car with EWS disabled in the dme/binary modification tool, could a bad key still be responsible for a intermittent no crank/no start ?

Yes, I have a bad original key that will not crank no matter what.

is adding a diode needed to correctly run a AGM battery in these cars? I know with other cars that came stock a standard flooded lead-acid battery need a diode in series with the battery fuse to correctly boost the voltage to charge AGM batteries. I have a sneaking suspicion I'm not putting enough voltage out of my alternator and it's hurting the battery. I'll check later to see what voltage the alternator puts out when it is running.

I've been running an AGM in my car for 7 years with no issue, have not had to do anything of the sort.

[zzyzx85]

is adding a diode needed to correctly run a AGM battery in these cars? I know with other cars that came stock a standard flooded lead-acid battery need a diode in series with the battery fuse to correctly boost the voltage to charge AGM batteries. I have a sneaking suspicion I'm not putting enough voltage out of my alternator and it's hurting the battery. I'll check later to see what voltage the alternator puts out when it is running.

[bavarian3]

Best plug and play exhaust set up? I've been reading euro headers and section 1 but was told you'd have to move the O2 sensor? I'm not too keen on doing things like that so I'm trying to get the best bang for your buck, plug and play set up. I also have no plans to go catless.

One option is to code out the rear o2's and egt. Super simple to do. Then you'd have to plug the o2 bunges. The hardest part would be to actually find a euro section 1.

Best to go supersprint section 1 or have a shop weld in HJS cats to a stock section 1(what I did).

[bavarian3]

Yes.

My understanding is that the key must sync with the EWS module and then the EWS module must sync with the DME. Coding out EWS sync just removes the requirement for the EWS and DME to sync, so if your key or EWS module fails you will still have a no start.

thanks!

[Kipjames3]

Best plug and play exhaust set up? I've been reading euro headers and section 1 but was told you'd have to move the O2 sensor? I'm not too keen on doing things like that so I'm trying to get the best bang for your buck, plug and play set up. I also have no plans to go catless.

[D-O]

I knew I read something about this recently. Here it is from an expert.