If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Random question…I was replacing the red fixtures for the trim piece that goes over the glove box. On disintegrated and bits fell into the hole. Is there anyway to fish them out? Don't know if that area is accessible if I take apart the glovebox. I can hear the pieces rattling around.
Haven't taken a dash out before, but I would think that those pieces would fall out if the glove box is removed.
Random question…I was replacing the red fixtures for the trim piece that goes over the glove box. On disintegrated and bits fell into the hole. Is there anyway to fish them out? Don't know if that area is accessible if I take apart the glovebox. I can hear the pieces rattling around.
You need to use a different connector. the one that comes with the Spal is shit and the factory one is not easy to deal with if you're not equipped with good crimpers.
The best solution is a connector that uses closed barrel pins. I suggest a Deutsch DTP 2 positions.
This kit comes with the proper crimper and it a breeze to install.
I know it's not crazy cheap, but this is the way.
The Deutsch connectors are also re-usable, so if you need to change the fan down the road or the controller, you can do that without having to cut/re-crimp your wiring.
Alternatively, you can also use a Metripak 630, which is cheaper but a lot easier to mess the crimping process :
I still don't recommend it.
Let me know if you want more details/explanations, just ask, I do automotive wiring for a living.
Awesome! Thank you for that detailed info and links! Yeah $55 doesn't seem that bad for that first kit if you’re recommending it and say it’s much easier. I’ll look into getting that one then, will def reach out/PM you when I tackle the job with any questions lol, appreciate it!
Quick last dumb question; what’s the best way for me to determine which wires on the controller are + and ground? With BMWs seems brown is usually ground but dont want to assume, I dont know how to test beforehand 😅
You need to use a different connector. the one that comes with the Spal is shit and the factory one is not easy to deal with if you're not equipped with good crimpers.
The best solution is a connector that uses closed barrel pins. I suggest a Deutsch DTP 2 positions.
This kit comes with the proper crimper and it a breeze to install.
I know it's not crazy cheap, but this is the way.
The Deutsch connectors are also re-usable, so if you need to change the fan down the road or the controller, you can do that without having to cut/re-crimp your wiring.
Alternatively, you can also use a Metripak 630, which is cheaper but a lot easier to mess the crimping process :
Dumb question cause I'm a dummy when it comes to anything wiring related; how do I wire the front aux fan controller to run a SPAL fan? I figure its just + and - but they're different thicknesses and i dont know which on the controller is which, also should I cut off the harness plug on the fan wiring and just splice the wires to the controller’s?
The intent is to have the front aux fan controller (front fan and shroud removed) running the SPAL 14” fan thats mounted in Zionsville shroud as main fan. Thanks!
I need help with windshield wiper arm reinstallation -- specifically the weird plastic gaskets.
I replaced my windshield cowl a few months back, and while I was taking it apart I noticed that there were some cracked/crumbled up plastic washers where the wiper arm attaches to the cowl that needed to be replaced. So I looked up the parts and ordered them, but now have no idea how they go back together?
The gasket sets are different for either wiper -- there's this pair and this pair. They're slightly different but seem to serve the same function.
What I don't understand is how it all goes back together? Each set of washers is asymmetric (they come in pairs and in each pair one is different from the other), and it's not clear where in the stack of objects they go, in which order, and which way they face. I've looked up several youtube videos that go over cowl/wiper arm replacement and they don't talk about them at all.
Anyone know how these go together? Does one go underneath the cowl? Feel kinda dumb because I can do rod bearings but can't seem to figure this out ¯\_(ツ)/¯
For anyone confused about this in the future: Upon closer inspection, it turns out the new ones are built into the cowl lol.
I keep getting AAA mail, it seems every letter offers their best deal ever. My M3 is maintained as best I can and I'd call it "reliable" but it never really goes very far from home. My truck is a 2022 Toyota and my wife's car is still under warranty with free roadside. Interested in thoughts on AAA or some other such roadside assistance "plan". I'd like to know I could get a tow, but I can change my own tires and generally don't find running out of fuel a risk, hence my reluctance to get AAA or something like it.
Ime getting roadside assistance through your existing insurance carrier is cheaper and easier.
AAA save my ass a few times lol. I have had two alternator die and one trip took almost exactly 50 miles to get it back (the other was 20 miles or so). Definitely saved me a costly tow. Both tow drivers were cool and had no problems with my lowered ride height (flatbed tow trucks both times).
I purchased this illuminated shift knob used but it came without the shift trim plastic, so I had to purchase an old leather boot donor on eBay to pull the trim.
I'll clean up the really old, hardened combination of leather and adhesive, but what would be an appropriate adhesive to use to join the leather and the plastic?
I keep getting AAA mail, it seems every letter offers their best deal ever. My M3 is maintained as best I can and I'd call it "reliable" but it never really goes very far from home. My truck is a 2022 Toyota and my wife's car is still under warranty with free roadside. Interested in thoughts on AAA or some other such roadside assistance "plan". I'd like to know I could get a tow, but I can change my own tires and generally don't find running out of fuel a risk, hence my reluctance to get AAA or something like it.
AAA's been invaluable to me on several occasions. Got a blown out tire up in the angeles national forest 30 miles from civilization that would have been a $300 tow. Also paid off big when I locked my keys in my g-body 911 which is resistant to the ways that techs usually get into locked cars, and they had to have a real locksmith come and cut a new key by hand on the spot.
Leave a comment: