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What's the rough lifespan of OE rubber RTABs (Z4M variant) with vorshlag limiter shims installed? I had them installed when I got the car at 45k miles, now I'm up to 105k miles 7 years later. Are they for sure cooked? The ones that were on the car with 45k miles were absolutely cooked. Do the limiter shims make a huge difference in lifespan? Also, is there any disadvantage of moving to spherical monoball RTABs when I replace? (car is street only vert, lots of freeway miles)
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Thanks! I must have missed that in the kit diagram, I'll take another look!
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+1Originally posted by Slideways View PostHonestly, if your sensors are still working fine, I'd just keep using them and use the funds for something else.
PSUEng, BMW doesn't list the o ring separately for the coolant sensor, but it's used on other cars, so you can buy that. Part number 13621743299
Also, it is definitely included in the wolfn8tr kit, installed one a month or two ago
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The VNE 076 sensor from FCP is the same as the factory BMW sensor, same manufacturer, same everything.Originally posted by PSUEng View PostRegarding coolant/oil temp sensors 13621433077 and -076, are we good running VNE here or is Genuine parts the way to go? Piecing cooling system refresh together and want to get the right stuff. Genuine water pump it is, and I have the "Wolf" o-ring kit.
EDIT: Noticed that the -076 sensor isn't included in most refresh kit, nor is the o-ring in "Wolf" kit. Are we replacing this one preemptively or not? Seems to me why not, it's all torn apart anyway to get at it.
The VNE 077 looks the same, but they chose a black o-ring rather than the green o-ring. You'll have to compare these.
Honestly, if your sensors are still working fine, I'd just keep using them and use the funds for something else.
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Regarding coolant/oil temp sensors 13621433077 and -076, are we good running VNE here or is Genuine parts the way to go? Piecing cooling system refresh together and want to get the right stuff. Genuine water pump it is, and I have the "Wolf" o-ring kit.
EDIT: Noticed that the -076 sensor isn't included in most refresh kit, nor is the o-ring in "Wolf" kit. Are we replacing this one preemptively or not? Seems to me why not, it's all torn apart anyway to get at it.Last edited by PSUEng; 05-25-2025, 02:42 PM.
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Did I make a mistake applying Leatherique to the extended leather dash/door cards on my M6?
I didn't use much as the leather is great condition.
I immediately panicked when I read a on 911 forum that you should never apply it to a leather dash as it can and will weaken the glue then leather can separate from the dash as a result.
Makes sense in theory but I read more opinions saying it just fine to use on the dash/door cards.
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Somewhere between -2.0 to -2.5 would be ideal.Originally posted by IamFODI View PostWhat's the target you're trying to get to?
Ride height might be a limiting factor, perhaps? 18s are tucked ever so slightly. Been meaning to raise it up once I reinstall my 19s. Regardless, I'd have thought there's enough adjustability in these arms to level it out a bit more.
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If you brought that car to me to align, I'd just say, "no."
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What's the target you're trying to get to?Originally posted by jing View PostIs there anything obvious as to why the alignment shop is saying that the rear camber couldn't be corrected past -3.4? AKG adjustable arms, if that matters. Kind of looks like it's maxed out on the 'inside' already.
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Is there anything obvious as to why the alignment shop is saying that the rear camber couldn't be corrected past -3.4? AKG adjustable arms, if that matters. Kind of looks like it's maxed out on the 'inside' already.
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How common is a timing cover leak?
Nothing ever drips down to the bellypan/ground etc. but there is always a film of oil right around where the head meets the block.
I have looked at the vanos gasket, the "freeze" plug under vanos area, OFHG area and nothing. Granted the area I am looking at is hard to see as so many items are in that area. I can't imagine it's the vanos line as these seem to not just drip slightly when defective.
The most oil I see is near the tensioner where the timing cover meets the head/block. The most oil/grime seems to be right there, and that's a bummer as to do it right the head should probably come off.
FWIW the vehicle has 72k on it.
Couldn't get photo of the worst area, these might be useless photos.
Last edited by Cubieman; 05-06-2025, 10:19 PM.
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Are the left and right window switches in coupes interchangeable? My Driver window switch finally broke and would rather replace both sides but the right(passenger) side is 2x the price of the left?!Last edited by dHam_Slow.46M; 05-04-2025, 09:25 AM.
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Just purchased and installed Halogen variant from FCP Euro (OEM? Magneti Marelli) for my xenon and they look great. I experimented with cheapo ebay lenses and they yellowed in about 2 years. So ill see how these last.Originally posted by ATB88 View PostAre the headlight lenses for halogens meaningfully different than the ones for xenons? There seem to be less in the way of OE options for the Xenon ones and they're more expensive
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I think there is a thread on this; some say no difference. I recently ordered new lenses for my 2003 w/Xenon from the dealer and was told latest parts are the 191/192 variants, so that is what I got. Made by Automotive Lighting (AL).Originally posted by ATB88 View PostAre the headlight lenses for halogens meaningfully different than the ones for xenons? There seem to be less in the way of OE options for the Xenon ones and they're more expensive
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Are the headlight lenses for halogens meaningfully different than the ones for xenons? There seem to be less in the way of OE options for the Xenon ones and they're more expensive
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