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  • fourmula1
    replied
    EDIT SOLVED: Had a question about MCS true rear coil over clevis mounting. Holes line up with OEM mounting location.
    Last edited by fourmula1; 10-23-2023, 08:54 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jet_dogg
    replied
    Just use the right driver, problem solved.

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  • PSUEng
    replied
    Originally posted by BigRussia View Post
    Looking to preemptively replace my TPS, and I see alot of folks mention replacing the OE screws that strip easily (pn 13541726918) with allen/hex or torx head screws; what thread pitch and length should I be looking for the replacements?
    According to Real OEM, the Pozi screw is M4x25mm. I dug around in the fastener bin at work and decided on some M4 socket cap screws (3mm hex drive) in 25mm length with a lock washer. I've not yet done this myself, but I plan to, and these are the screws I'll attempt to replace the Pozis with.

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by BigRussia View Post
    Looking to preemptively replace my TPS, and I see alot of folks mention replacing the OE screws that strip easily (pn 13541726918) with allen/hex or torx head screws; what thread pitch and length should I be looking for the replacements?
    I just did this and wish I could tell you bolt size, I went to ACE and just compared and used thier pitch finder board and easily found the right stuff.

    This is from screeshot from a DIY off buildjornal.
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  • Shonky
    replied
    Originally posted by BigRussia View Post
    Looking to preemptively replace my TPS, and I see alot of folks mention replacing the OE screws that strip easily (pn 13541726918) with allen/hex or torx head screws; what thread pitch and length should I be looking for the replacements?
    You know RealOEM lists this (for any part numbers)?


    Similarly for things like crush washers.

    Leave a comment:


  • BigRussia
    replied
    Looking to preemptively replace my TPS, and I see alot of folks mention replacing the OE screws that strip easily (pn 13541726918) with allen/hex or torx head screws; what thread pitch and length should I be looking for the replacements?

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by SUPREM3/// View Post

    Good idea. Would you say its worth it to run the secondary ducting without the flap? Your install looks really clean but unfortunately I won't have the luxury of routing it on a lift! Haha.
    I would either cap it off or duct it as it will draw in hot engine bay air otherwise. However many people just leave it open and don't run the flap and don't seem to have any real problems. The eventuri scoop is a nice middle ground as far as getting in cooler air, or so it would seem.

    Just wanted to duct as much cool air to the intake as possible as I am running the CSL intake without the intake tract/bumper it was designed to run with.

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  • SUPREM3///
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    I used part of a foam air filter and covered the secondary hole to avoid and bug debris so the ducting is back on.
    People generally cut out a piece of plastic, shape it just right and glue it in, not exactly sure of what type of glue or plastic is used.
    Could probably get some sheet of hobby store plastic and if it's thick enough and well formed it might not require any glue.
    Good idea. Would you say its worth it to run the secondary ducting without the flap? Your install looks really clean but unfortunately I won't have the luxury of routing it on a lift! Haha.

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by SUPREM3/// View Post

    Appreciate it Cubie, I thought I had read that you scrapped the secondary ducting due to debris? Would you say it's worth running the ducting if I don't have the flap? Think I prefer ducting as long as there's no negative effect. Where the hell do people find a plug for it though out of curiosity?
    I used part of a foam air filter and covered the secondary hole to avoid and bug debris so the ducting is back on.
    People generally cut out a piece of plastic, shape it just right and glue it in, not exactly sure of what type of glue or plastic is used.
    Could probably get some sheet of hobby store plastic and if it's thick enough and well formed it might not require any glue.

    Leave a comment:


  • SUPREM3///
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    I have it piped to the driver's side brake duct so it can draw fresh air when the flap is closed. Others just plug it as it can make an annoying whistling sound.
    Appreciate it Cubie, I thought I had read that you scrapped the secondary ducting due to debris? Would you say it's worth running the ducting if I don't have the flap? Think I prefer ducting as long as there's no negative effect. Where the hell do people find a plug for it though out of curiosity?

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by SUPREM3/// View Post
    What's everyone doing with the 2nd hole on the Karbonius airbox? Plug it or pipe it? Currently just running it open and want to address it.
    I have it piped to the driver's side brake duct so it can draw fresh air when the flap is closed. Others just plug it as it can make an annoying whistling sound.

    Leave a comment:


  • SUPREM3///
    replied
    What's everyone doing with the 2nd hole on the Karbonius airbox? Plug it or pipe it? Currently just running it open and want to address it.

    Leave a comment:


  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
    Reading through the torque spec documentation iā€™m seeing alot of angle specs. excluding rod bearings and other critical engine uses, are people really bothering with this? about to reinstall my rear suspension.
    Cubieman's probably right that you'd be fine with German torque spec (gutentight).

    Me, personally.... For safety-critical stuff, I always try to follow the torque spec (and bolt replacement suggestions) exactly.

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  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by BigRussia View Post
    Could a dead battery cause misfire issues afterwards? Anyone had this happen specifically w/ the AntiGravity ATX-30 w/ the Restart feature?

    Dead battery this morning, do the Restart feature, car started up fine but been dealing with misfiring issues since, more evident at low rpms (happened after a wot pull on hwy onramp corner). Pulled below codes, nothing changed on car recently other than BBK install n power bled brakes. After clearing and charging battery a bit, test drove and car broke up worse at WOT and SES light, had to limp at 3k couldn't go higher, now pulled only one cyl 6 code (201 now instead of 210).
    Fuel tank was at 1/4 when happened if matters, but not very old fuel (maybe 2 months max). Had put fresh gas before I got home and pulled the first set of codes.
    ā€‹
    Different car (E90) but mine sat for 2-3 months getting a bunch of work done and performed a little weirdly until I had refilled the tank from almost-empty twice. FWIW.

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  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
    How susceptible to damage--specifically internally--are axles during shipping if say, they are so poorly packaged that they bang on each other, bust through the outer box, and sustain damage such that the metal flanges are dinged and the black finish is removed? Splines and threads appear fine. Asking for a friend...

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    I wouldn't run that. Probably fine but... damn. How hard is it to pack something?

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