Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[George Hill]

I run the RE mounts on almost everything, no issues.

[Cubieman]

I love RE trans mounts. They're basically E21 mounts (but with 8mm stud for our braces whereas e21 has 10mm). No NVH, just beefier.

Now which were you referring to going from hourglass to cylinder? RE mounts have always been cylindrical, and I doubt that BMW would change e46 bushings' shape at this point in time (unless they've been changed to fit newer models, and are backwards compatible with e46).

Thanks for the info, I'll likely go with those. The stock are hourglass and RE's cylindrical from what I understood. That simple change in shape led to a bit less deflection.

[Tbonem3]

Anyone running RE trans mounts?

I'd like to go OEM but they are $90 pop, ridiculous. The RE mounts seem like they might not incur an NVH penalty as they are neoprene and the bolt doesn't go all the way through the mounts.

From the description they just changed the shape from and hourglass to cylindrical, although I don't doubt the rubber may still be a bit more dense.

I love RE trans mounts. They're basically E21 mounts (but with 8mm stud for our braces whereas e21 has 10mm). No NVH, just beefier.

Now which were you referring to going from hourglass to cylinder? RE mounts have always been cylindrical, and I doubt that BMW would change e46 bushings' shape at this point in time (unless they've been changed to fit newer models, and are backwards compatible with e46).

[jayjaya29]

I've been running them on my E36 M3 track tool for the past couple of years. They have held up great.

[Cubieman]

Anyone running RE trans mounts?

I'd like to go OEM but they are $90 pop, ridiculous. The RE mounts seem like they might not incur an NVH penalty as they are neoprene and the bolt doesn't go all the way through the mounts.

From the description they just changed the shape from and hourglass to cylindrical, although I don't doubt the rubber may still be a bit more dense.

[Cubieman]

Brake pads?

Sometimes they shift around in the calipers. Mine are doing that RN despite being OE pads in OE calipers. Annoying.

Also, some pad compounds (mainly aftermarket) can kinda stick a little to the rotors when the car is stopped for a while and then unstick when you get moving, especially when humidity is high.

Makes sense, I'll have to get some help and check that out.

[IamFODI]

Everytime I back down the driveway after the car has been sitting I hear a somewhat loud metallic "pop". It always happens after the first press of the brake pedal during reversing down the driveway.

I feel like the sound is more apparent on the driver's side but can't quite pin it down.

This happens quite literally ever single time I take the car out when it's sat for more than 5-6 hours or so.

Unfortunately the P.O had BC coilovers installed, I don't know, but assume the original strut bearings were swapped as I have all the original suspension parts save the bearings. Those strut bearings if original have ~73k on them.

What should I be looking for other the some obvious loose bolt etc.? Thanks.

Brake pads?

Sometimes they shift around in the calipers. Mine are doing that RN despite being OE pads in OE calipers. Annoying.

Also, some pad compounds (mainly aftermarket) can kinda stick a little to the rotors when the car is stopped for a while and then unstick when you get moving, especially when humidity is high.

[Cubieman]

Everytime I back down the driveway after the car has been sitting I hear a somewhat loud metallic "pop". It always happens after the first press of the brake pedal during reversing down the driveway.

I feel like the sound is more apparent on the driver's side but can't quite pin it down.

This happens quite literally ever single time I take the car out when it's sat for more than 5-6 hours or so.

Unfortunately the P.O had BC coilovers installed, I don't know, but assume the original strut bearings were swapped as I have all the original suspension parts save the bearings. Those strut bearings if original have ~73k on them.

What should I be looking for other the some obvious loose bolt etc.? Thanks.

[maupineda]

McMaster

[DJAM3]

Buy them from Fastenal for $2

[Cubieman]

Now that is a pretty darn good question I’d like to know answer too as well.

Me too, I'd like an alternative to the differential bolts, input and output.

[BMWE46M3]

Where can I (we) find equivalent-to-OE/Genuine fasteners (i.e., bolts/nuts) in order to avoid the ever increasing Genuine prices?

Example: Steering rack bolt, 32106781639. M10x67, grade 8.8 flange bolt. $30 ea at FCP, certainly this is available elsewhere.

Another example, front subframe plate bolts. And I"m sure there are others.

Any ideas? The discovery process for parts on this car seems to be getting more involved, in order to avoid (where reasonable/possible) high prices.

Now that is a pretty darn good question I’d like to know answer too as well.

[PSUEng]

Where can I (we) find equivalent-to-OE/Genuine fasteners (i.e., bolts/nuts) in order to avoid the ever increasing Genuine prices?

Example: Steering rack bolt, 32106781639. M10x67, grade 8.8 flange bolt. $30 ea at FCP, certainly this is available elsewhere.

Another example, front subframe plate bolts. And I"m sure there are others.

Any ideas? The discovery process for parts on this car seems to be getting more involved, in order to avoid (where reasonable/possible) high prices.

[heinzboehmer]

Is it just me or do others also find it that it takes a really long time to fill up the washer fluid reservoir with the fluid?

Normally, I would be able to pour it out of the standard issue gas station bottle at a steady rate to any other car .. but on my M3, the reservoir opening almost gets “over saturated” with fluid and fluid comes up to the top. Then, I have to wait a few minutes for the fluid to slowly go down into the reservoir and allow me to start pouring again. And, while this is going on, the little rubber tube that is attached to the reservoir head is spurting out a bit of fluid itself (I guess to balance out the ?imbalance?)

And the last funny bit is that the reservoir cap, IIRC, says 5.4L for the capacity. However, I cannot even finish pouring a 3.78L (1 gallon) bottle in there before it starts backing up.

What could be the reason for the (1) slow fill, and (2) not being able to fill to the reservoir’s full capacity?

Something is definitely clogged. I'd start by inspecting the smaller tube and then the filler neck/reservoir.

[HanSooloo]

Is it just me or do others also find it that it takes a really long time to fill up the washer fluid reservoir with the fluid?

Normally, I would be able to pour it out of the standard issue gas station bottle at a steady rate to any other car .. but on my M3, the reservoir opening almost gets “over saturated” with fluid and fluid comes up to the top. Then, I have to wait a few minutes for the fluid to slowly go down into the reservoir and allow me to start pouring again. And, while this is going on, the little rubber tube that is attached to the reservoir head is spurting out a bit of fluid itself (I guess to balance out the ?imbalance?)

And the last funny bit is that the reservoir cap, IIRC, says 5.4L for the capacity. However, I cannot even finish pouring a 3.78L (1 gallon) bottle in there before it starts backing up.

What could be the reason for the (1) slow fill, and (2) not being able to fill to the reservoir’s full capacity?