Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[bavarian3]

MK20 won't matter for this, sport mode is controlled by the DME (and the HW triggering mechanism is the same between non-HP and HP DMEs).

There's a bunch of different configurations for the switch panel, so lots of wiring diagrams as well. Here's an example one with the sport button labeled (look for "driving dynamics"):



IIRC, the button pulls to GND and the DME reacts accordingly. If you emulate that with the ZCP button, it should just work. I would stick a multimeter on the output pin of the button (with everything connected) and see how it's set up. Then do the same on the ZCP trim.

Here's an excellent resource on how the switch center works electrically: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...087#post246087

Another option is to swap in the E39 M5 wiper stalk. Identical to ours, except for an extra button (conveniently) labeled "S" at the end of it: 61318375407. I know for a fact that this one pulls to GND: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...950#post254950

You n Bry5on are next level, no surprise.

While completely doable, now I'm thinking this may be more complex than I want to bother with as I'm adverse to tampering with factory wires when avoidable.

Perhaps I should try this a different way - what happens i slap this on my steering wheel, plug into the one harness female that's on there and do nothing else. I assume I just have a sole i/o button that works as it would before?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-57658-32347833936-genuine-bmw-part/

[heinzboehmer]

would it be feasible to setup the i/o button on a zcp steering wheel for sport mode on a non-zcp MK20 car

MK20 won't matter for this, sport mode is controlled by the DME (and the HW triggering mechanism is the same between non-HP and HP DMEs).

There's a bunch of different configurations for the switch panel, so lots of wiring diagrams as well. Here's an example one with the sport button labeled (look for "driving dynamics"):



IIRC, the button pulls to GND and the DME reacts accordingly. If you emulate that with the ZCP button, it should just work. I would stick a multimeter on the output pin of the button (with everything connected) and see how it's set up. Then do the same on the ZCP trim.

Here's an excellent resource on how the switch center works electrically: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...087#post246087

Another option is to swap in the E39 M5 wiper stalk. Identical to ours, except for an extra button (conveniently) labeled "S" at the end of it: 61318375407. I know for a fact that this one pulls to GND: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...950#post254950

[bavarian3]

Not exactly what you are asking, but maybe helpful.

This is helpful, thanks! looks like I can easily just run another line or tap into the existing sport line

[Kipjames3]

Do sports seat's back panels fit M3 seats? Can't find a definite answer. The panels with the netting is what I'm referring to.

[D-O]

Not exactly what you are asking, but maybe helpful.

[bavarian3]

would it be feasible to setup the i/o button on a zcp steering wheel for sport mode on a non-zcp MK20 car

[ATB88]

On a car with EWS disabled in the dme/binary modification tool, could a bad key still be responsible for a intermittent no crank/no start ?

Yes, I have a bad original key that will not crank no matter what.

is adding a diode needed to correctly run a AGM battery in these cars? I know with other cars that came stock a standard flooded lead-acid battery need a diode in series with the battery fuse to correctly boost the voltage to charge AGM batteries. I have a sneaking suspicion I'm not putting enough voltage out of my alternator and it's hurting the battery. I'll check later to see what voltage the alternator puts out when it is running.

I've been running an AGM in my car for 7 years with no issue, have not had to do anything of the sort.

[zzyzx85]

is adding a diode needed to correctly run a AGM battery in these cars? I know with other cars that came stock a standard flooded lead-acid battery need a diode in series with the battery fuse to correctly boost the voltage to charge AGM batteries. I have a sneaking suspicion I'm not putting enough voltage out of my alternator and it's hurting the battery. I'll check later to see what voltage the alternator puts out when it is running.

[bavarian3]

Best plug and play exhaust set up? I've been reading euro headers and section 1 but was told you'd have to move the O2 sensor? I'm not too keen on doing things like that so I'm trying to get the best bang for your buck, plug and play set up. I also have no plans to go catless.

One option is to code out the rear o2's and egt. Super simple to do. Then you'd have to plug the o2 bunges. The hardest part would be to actually find a euro section 1.

Best to go supersprint section 1 or have a shop weld in HJS cats to a stock section 1(what I did).

[bavarian3]

Yes.

My understanding is that the key must sync with the EWS module and then the EWS module must sync with the DME. Coding out EWS sync just removes the requirement for the EWS and DME to sync, so if your key or EWS module fails you will still have a no start.

thanks!

[Kipjames3]

Best plug and play exhaust set up? I've been reading euro headers and section 1 but was told you'd have to move the O2 sensor? I'm not too keen on doing things like that so I'm trying to get the best bang for your buck, plug and play set up. I also have no plans to go catless.

[D-O]

I knew I read something about this recently. Here it is from an expert.

[D-O]

On a car with EWS disabled in the dme/binary modification tool, could a bad key still be responsible for a intermittent no crank/no start ?

Yes.

My understanding is that the key must sync with the EWS module and then the EWS module must sync with the DME. Coding out EWS sync just removes the requirement for the EWS and DME to sync, so if your key or EWS module fails you will still have a no start.

[ATB88]

What's the rough lifespan of OE rubber RTABs (Z4M variant) with vorshlag limiter shims installed? I had them installed when I got the car at 45k miles, now I'm up to 105k miles 7 years later. Are they for sure cooked? The ones that were on the car with 45k miles were absolutely cooked. Do the limiter shims make a huge difference in lifespan? Also, is there any disadvantage of moving to spherical monoball RTABs when I replace? (car is street only vert, lots of freeway miles)

The limiters should help yes, but I also think their lifespan is heavily dependent upon install technique (clocked correctly). But with 60k, they're surely done. Get solid anyway.

Interesting data point for anyone with this question in the future: just went in and replaced stock/Z4M RTABs with SDW monoballs because I was getting an alignment anyway.

The 7 year old and 60k mile rubber RTABs that I took out were absolutely pristine. Rubber looks and feels new to the touch. Either I'm not driving my car hard enough, or those Vorshlag limiters really completely change how these RTABs get used. Also, Tyler, to your point about them being installed correctly: I remember being kinda peeved because when I asked the tech who did the work if they pre-loaded them on install (I had been reading about this job back then and was curious if it was necessary -- had a shop do it because I was roadtripping the car home from GA where I bought it) he gave me a blank stare and then mumbled that it's not necessary. So FWIW, I do think mine were, technically, improperly installed.

I'm now curious enough to follow up with another dumb question -- to what extent do limiters have any negative effect on intended performance/behaviour of OEM rubber RTABs? My experience here tells me that monoballs are overkill and stock rubber with limiters are a great way to go, unless the limiters force some other tradeoff.

The monoballs are pretty and cool tho, so not a bad option if you wanna spend $150-$200 more and not have to ever do RTABs again I guess.

[karter16]

crazy just experienced the same thing but with the passenger door, interested to find out if there is some adjustment.

I have an RHD and mine is the same, passenger door is crisper and quieter. Pretty sure it's just that whichever door is the driver's door gets used a lot more a wears over the time. Adjustment definitely made things a lot better for me, but it's still not as good as passenger door. Pretty sure replacement of the latch mechanism etc. is what's needed to fix the rest of it.