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Well that answers my follow up question. I guess for now I'll try to siphon out any fluid in there. Just looked at the brake booster cost and it's not cheap 😫
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Originally posted by George Hill View PostEither way if you have brake fluid in the booster its likely now compromised and the internal diaphragm is living on borrowed time.
Thankfully it should fail relatively gracefully (AFAIK – someone please correct me if I'm wrong). But if it were me, I'd 100% start planning for a booster replacement.
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I'd be surprised if a pressure bleeder could force fluid through a good M/C seal. Wouldn't there be more pressure on those seals when the brake pedal is pressed?
I run mine to 20psi all the time, no issues.
Either way if you have brake fluid in the booster its likely now compromised and the internal diaphragm is living on borrowed time. BMW had an issue with oil entering the booster on N62 cars and once it did the diaphragm would eventually fail as well. We would install a check valve in the vacuum line to the engine from the booster and then stick a long zip tie into the vacuum hole on the booster. If it came back out wet the car got a booster. I'm not sure brake fluid wouldn't cause the same issue.
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Originally posted by duracellttu View Post
Too much pressure and you blew through the seals. Just use lower pressure next time and you will be okay.
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Originally posted by DJAM3 View PostTried to bleed the brakes with a Motive pressure bleeder. Under pressure, brake fluid started dripping to the ground. It looked like it was coming out of the vacuum port on the booster. What would cause this? Bad master cylinder seal? Too much pressure? I usually go to 15psi but I wasn't paying attention and went to 20psi. Ended up vacuum bleeding the brakes and there are no leaks under normal use.
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Tried to bleed the brakes with a Motive pressure bleeder. Under pressure, brake fluid started dripping to the ground. It looked like it was coming out of the vacuum port on the booster. What would cause this? Bad master cylinder seal? Too much pressure? I usually go to 15psi but I wasn't paying attention and went to 20psi. Ended up vacuum bleeding the brakes and there are no leaks under normal use.
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Yeah, I think the DME 50 switch chain frictional connection is smg-to-6spd based possibly...
The airbag codes, I believe it may be a bad srs module. Not sure if these fail NC which may be causing a draw while the car is off? Totally a guess here.
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Originally posted by fourmula1 View Post
Also DME 50 switch chain frictional connection
I'm able to fire it up now when stomping on the clutch pedal and hitting the clutch stop. I pulled the stop and slowly went past where the stop would have been and it fired up. I'm thinking it was just barely seeing it and maybe the heat exacerbated it.
Still trying to figure out the airbag light and codes.
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Originally posted by fourmula1 View PostIntermittent crank. Airbag light on. Windows aren't fully closing when door closes. White noise from speakers with power on engine off.
Battery died and airbag light appeared around the same time, replaced battery. Car was fine this morning. Went back out and wouldn’t turn over.
There was an ews immobilizer fault, but it cleared.
Help would be much appreciated. Definitely seems electrical in nature.
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Originally posted by fourmula1 View PostIntermittent crank. Airbag light on. Windows aren't fully closing when door closes. White noise from speakers with power on engine off.
Battery died and airbag light appeared around the same time, replaced battery. Car was fine this morning. Went back out and wouldn’t turn over.
There was an ews immobilizer fault, but it cleared.
Help would be much appreciated. Definitely seems electrical in nature.
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Intermittent crank. Airbag light on. Windows aren't fully closing when door closes. White noise from speakers with power on engine off.
Battery died and airbag light appeared around the same time, replaced battery. Car was fine this morning. Went back out and wouldn’t turn over.
There was an ews immobilizer fault, but it cleared.
Help would be much appreciated. Definitely seems electrical in nature.
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Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post
Curious, but what did you go with for boots and clamps? I bought the turner silicon ones, then returned them and ordered the OE boots and clamps...
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Originally posted by Slideways View Post
It's a solid piece and there is no issue removing it multiple times. The beauty of servicing the S54 is the full intake system is easy to remove compared to other BMWs. I wouldn't replace a thing under it. Maybe you can swap the TPS if the one near the oil filter is newer than the one on the throttle actuator.
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Originally posted by ugaexploder View PostThat makes sense...main reason I was thinking about some of these components under plenum is I'm mapping out what items I should replace when doing the Karb box. Mainly because I don't want to remove and install the plenum a bunch of times.
How resilient is the Karb plenum? Mainly connection points and the little cable holder near the firewall?
Part of me wants to replace everything under the plenum so I don't have to remove it frequently and possibly break things when doing so. Is this an irrational thought process?
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That makes sense...main reason I was thinking about some of these components under plenum is I'm mapping out what items I should replace when doing the Karb box. Mainly because I don't want to remove and install the plenum a bunch of times.
How resilient is the Karb plenum? Mainly connection points and the little cable holder near the firewall?
Part of me wants to replace everything under the plenum so I don't have to remove it frequently and possibly break things when doing so. Is this an irrational thought process?
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