Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[davidinnyc]

What tune do you have? Was the sport pedal curve modified at the same time do you know?

I'd check whether the curves are the same between the two cars (presuming you haven't already)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just the CSL software from Kassel Performance. I have no idea if the sport pedal curve was modified… whatever the standard CSL software would have I imagine!

Stupid question: how do I check the curves?

[karter16]

Okay -

I have two M3s (currently) and they're both SMG. 6MT LSB on the way tomorrow.

Jet Black M3 sport mode button on my standard, unadulterated M3 is “jumpy” and feels fine. Throttle response is great with it on. With sport mode off, the car just trudges along calmly.

Imola Red M3 went through an MSS54HP CSL DME swap as well as a Karbonius airbox. I don't remember whether I had any issues with sport mode before the swap, but sport mode now feels nothing like the Jet Black. Does the CSL DME have a less jumpy sport mode map? Could it feel weaker because of a bad throttle position sensor? Bad pedal sensor? Throttle bodies getting blocked by clamps?

David

What tune do you have? Was the sport pedal curve modified at the same time do you know?

I'd check whether the curves are the same between the two cars (presuming you haven't already)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[davidinnyc]

Okay -

I have two M3s (currently) and they’re both SMG. 6MT LSB on the way tomorrow.

Jet Black M3 sport mode button on my standard, unadulterated M3 is “jumpy” and feels fine. Throttle response is great with it on. With sport mode off, the car just trudges along calmly.

Imola Red M3 went through an MSS54HP CSL DME swap as well as a Karbonius airbox. I don’t remember whether I had any issues with sport mode before the swap, but sport mode now feels nothing like the Jet Black. Does the CSL DME have a less jumpy sport mode map? Could it feel weaker because of a bad throttle position sensor? Bad pedal sensor? Throttle bodies getting blocked by clamps?

David

[L0okitzRaj]

Located in California - SMOG related questions. Dumb question and I did some googling but couldn't find anything related to Martyn's MSS5x software.
If I used it for example enable shift lights I understand that modifying even something as small as that will fail smog.

I also understand that when using the MSS5x binary modification tool you take a backup.
If I just loaded that backup, is it to my understanding that that would allow me to pass smog?

You will pass with the shift lights that were added using Martyns tool.

I’ve passed multiple times with edited stuff. I actually edit my stuff using that tool in order to pass smog.


No need to swap back to original unless you turned off the cold start procedure. (That will turn off the SAP and flag the smog system)

[ephilthy6]

Located in California - SMOG related questions. Dumb question and I did some googling but couldn't find anything related to Martyn's MSS5x software.
If I used it for example enable shift lights I understand that modifying even something as small as that will fail smog.

I also understand that when using the MSS5x binary modification tool you take a backup.
If I just loaded that backup, is it to my understanding that that would allow me to pass smog?

[Keith_MN]

Bumper mounting drama.

2004 M3. Front bumper was a little misaligned so I took it off to re-fit. Discovered the four mounting studs (part #17) that screw into the carbon crash bar were missing. Odd?
Ordered those. Installed them with the spacers on the middle two, no spacers on the outer two.
Bumper goes on, fits well, but will not click into any of the four studs with any reasonable amount of force. I feel like I'm going to start doing damage if I press harder.
I lightly sanded them to take off the very slight edges from production, gave them some light grease. Still no go.
Grease marks on the bumper sockets line up enough that some of them should go, but no.
Tried to press the stud into the bumper socket on it's own and it won't go.

Anyone else experience this? Is the culprit just the 20yo rubber not flexing at all?
Thinking about taking ~1mm off the studs so they slip in easier. As is, they are 15mm OD on the studs and 12.5mm id for the receiving socket.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/de/showp...diagId=51_4734

Took them down to about 14mm and that seems to have done the trick. Bumper is on and aligned well. I think it's likely just the age of the rubber that gave me issues.

[Darbshaw]

For a track only car, smg to manual swap (ZF 5Spd)

Instead of properly wiring in the clutch switch, is there anything harmful being done by decoding the “Engine Start only in park or neutral gear”? From the EWS

This allows the engine to start without wiring the switch. I don't have a need for cruise control, but am I potentially missing on other requirements by side stepping the wiring?

[Cubieman]

Bumper mounting drama.

2004 M3. Front bumper was a little misaligned so I took it off to re-fit. Discovered the four mounting studs (part #17) that screw into the carbon crash bar were missing. Odd?
Ordered those. Installed them with the spacers on the middle two, no spacers on the outer two.
Bumper goes on, fits well, but will not click into any of the four studs with any reasonable amount of force. I feel like I'm going to start doing damage if I press harder.
I lightly sanded them to take off the very slight edges from production, gave them some light grease. Still no go.
Grease marks on the bumper sockets line up enough that some of them should go, but no.
Tried to press the stud into the bumper socket on it's own and it won't go.

Anyone else experience this? Is the culprit just the 20yo rubber not flexing at all?
Thinking about taking ~1mm off the studs so they slip in easier. As is, they are 15mm OD on the studs and 12.5mm id for the receiving socket.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/de/showp...diagId=51_4734

Maybe you are having issues with the "tabs" many people need to remove.


Edit: I see this is not a replacement bumper, still check it out.

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/144903-weird-genuine-euro-m3-front-bumper

[M3LSB.Gab]

I don't know this for a fact, but it may point you in the right direction. I believe that these are made to be fairly modular. The base of it seems to act like a modular cage so you can add and remove switches/buttons. The face plate comes off the front which allows access to the switches.

My gut feeling is that you can do this:
buy a switch panel that has 3 buttons on it. LINK
remove/steal the face plate from that one
remove the face plate from your factory one. remove the switches you don't want (LINK showing the guts)
re-arrange buttons to your liking
install face plate from the second switch panel you purchased LINK
code??

Maybe someone else can chime in on this.

ahh yeah it makes sense ! Mine is a ZCP 2005 with manual non-heated seats, no HK so it's suppose to have only 3 buttons from factory but I guess last owner changed it and it has the full 7 buttons now, even for the rear sunshade. I guess I just need the cover plate letting 3 holes for DSC, tire pressure, Sport.

[karter16]

The late style switch center is still (sorta) modular: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...087#post246087

ah good stuff - thanks for that clarification. So theoretically all you need is one that has all the buttons, take out the ones you don't want and face plate to match.

[heinzboehmer]

My understanding is that this was the case in earlier manufacturing years (you can actually see on early model cars that the panel face plate is segmented to allow additions/removals. BMW then changed to have different part numbers for each combination of buttons with a single faceplate. Subsequently I believe they discontinued these and if you buy one today it has all the buttons and you have to put blanking caps over the buttons that don't apply.

If you have a latter year car I believe the only option is to find a second hand module in the exact configuration you're after. If OP has earlier model year and thy can source the switches they need they will be able to do as you say.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The late style switch center is still (sorta) modular: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...087#post246087

[karter16]

I don't know this for a fact, but it may point you in the right direction. I believe that these are made to be fairly modular. The base of it seems to act like a modular cage so you can add and remove switches/buttons. The face plate comes off the front which allows access to the switches.

My gut feeling is that you can do this:
buy a switch panel that has 3 buttons on it. LINK
remove/steal the face plate from that one
remove the face plate from your factory one. remove the switches you don't want (LINK showing the guts)
re-arrange buttons to your liking
install face plate from the second switch panel you purchased LINK
code??

Maybe someone else can chime in on this.

My understanding is that this was the case in earlier manufacturing years (you can actually see on early model cars that the panel face plate is segmented to allow additions/removals. BMW then changed to have different part numbers for each combination of buttons with a single faceplate. Subsequently I believe they discontinued these and if you buy one today it has all the buttons and you have to put blanking caps over the buttons that don't apply.

If you have a latter year car I believe the only option is to find a second hand module in the exact configuration you're after. If OP has earlier model year and thy can source the switches they need they will be able to do as you say.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[davidinnyc]

Funny timing - exactly same thing that happened to me a few weeks ago. I have a GPS on the way from bmwfnatic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glad to know we’re experiencing the same things. I ended up buying a GPS and new detent springs / sleeves / etc. since I’ll be down there. I should probably also change out the CSB, guibo, tranny mounts…

[karter16]

0-60motorsports calling you in here

So I wrote last week that I went for a spirited drive on a relatively hot day with no crank fan... SMG COG light came on, car revved in 3rd gear but I had to limp off the freeway. Turned the car off, waited a few minutes, turned it back on and managed to get to my first destination. I returned home, SMG COG light came on, I pulled off the freeway and waited an hour for the car to cool down. Drove home without issue.

Pulled codes and came up with these:


36 (0x24) Auswertung Positionsgeber Waehlwinkel
37 (0x25) Auswertung Positionsgeber Schaltweg

Quick Google searching has led me to the conclusion that the GPS (gear position sensor) needs to be replaced, but just wanted to know if anyone else has experienced these symptoms. I can hear the accumulator prime properly when I open the driver's door (about 8-10 seconds) and the gears seem to shift fine when the car does indeed shift and not die.

Today was interesting in that the car died shortly after starting and testing the shifts... car was on for about one minute when everything died, battery light was red, oil light was red, etc.

Thanks in advance!

Funny timing - exactly same thing that happened to me a few weeks ago. I have a GPS on the way from bmwfnatic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Avedis]

Anybody can help me find that PN for this module ? without heated seats and HK button. thanks in advance !!

I don't know this for a fact, but it may point you in the right direction. I believe that these are made to be fairly modular. The base of it seems to act like a modular cage so you can add and remove switches/buttons. The face plate comes off the front which allows access to the switches.

My gut feeling is that you can do this:
buy a switch panel that has 3 buttons on it. LINK
remove/steal the face plate from that one
remove the face plate from your factory one. remove the switches you don't want (LINK showing the guts)
re-arrange buttons to your liking
install face plate from the second switch panel you purchased LINK
code??

Maybe someone else can chime in on this.