Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[ATB88]

On a car with EWS disabled in the dme/binary modification tool, could a bad key still be responsible for a intermittent no crank/no start ?

Yes, I have a bad original key that will not crank no matter what.

is adding a diode needed to correctly run a AGM battery in these cars? I know with other cars that came stock a standard flooded lead-acid battery need a diode in series with the battery fuse to correctly boost the voltage to charge AGM batteries. I have a sneaking suspicion I'm not putting enough voltage out of my alternator and it's hurting the battery. I'll check later to see what voltage the alternator puts out when it is running.

I've been running an AGM in my car for 7 years with no issue, have not had to do anything of the sort.

[zzyzx85]

is adding a diode needed to correctly run a AGM battery in these cars? I know with other cars that came stock a standard flooded lead-acid battery need a diode in series with the battery fuse to correctly boost the voltage to charge AGM batteries. I have a sneaking suspicion I'm not putting enough voltage out of my alternator and it's hurting the battery. I'll check later to see what voltage the alternator puts out when it is running.

[bavarian3]

Best plug and play exhaust set up? I've been reading euro headers and section 1 but was told you'd have to move the O2 sensor? I'm not too keen on doing things like that so I'm trying to get the best bang for your buck, plug and play set up. I also have no plans to go catless.

One option is to code out the rear o2's and egt. Super simple to do. Then you'd have to plug the o2 bunges. The hardest part would be to actually find a euro section 1.

Best to go supersprint section 1 or have a shop weld in HJS cats to a stock section 1(what I did).

[bavarian3]

Yes.

My understanding is that the key must sync with the EWS module and then the EWS module must sync with the DME. Coding out EWS sync just removes the requirement for the EWS and DME to sync, so if your key or EWS module fails you will still have a no start.

thanks!

[Kipjames3]

Best plug and play exhaust set up? I've been reading euro headers and section 1 but was told you'd have to move the O2 sensor? I'm not too keen on doing things like that so I'm trying to get the best bang for your buck, plug and play set up. I also have no plans to go catless.

[D-O]

I knew I read something about this recently. Here it is from an expert.

[D-O]

On a car with EWS disabled in the dme/binary modification tool, could a bad key still be responsible for a intermittent no crank/no start ?

Yes.

My understanding is that the key must sync with the EWS module and then the EWS module must sync with the DME. Coding out EWS sync just removes the requirement for the EWS and DME to sync, so if your key or EWS module fails you will still have a no start.

[ATB88]

What's the rough lifespan of OE rubber RTABs (Z4M variant) with vorshlag limiter shims installed? I had them installed when I got the car at 45k miles, now I'm up to 105k miles 7 years later. Are they for sure cooked? The ones that were on the car with 45k miles were absolutely cooked. Do the limiter shims make a huge difference in lifespan? Also, is there any disadvantage of moving to spherical monoball RTABs when I replace? (car is street only vert, lots of freeway miles)

The limiters should help yes, but I also think their lifespan is heavily dependent upon install technique (clocked correctly). But with 60k, they're surely done. Get solid anyway.

Interesting data point for anyone with this question in the future: just went in and replaced stock/Z4M RTABs with SDW monoballs because I was getting an alignment anyway.

The 7 year old and 60k mile rubber RTABs that I took out were absolutely pristine. Rubber looks and feels new to the touch. Either I'm not driving my car hard enough, or those Vorshlag limiters really completely change how these RTABs get used. Also, Tyler, to your point about them being installed correctly: I remember being kinda peeved because when I asked the tech who did the work if they pre-loaded them on install (I had been reading about this job back then and was curious if it was necessary -- had a shop do it because I was roadtripping the car home from GA where I bought it) he gave me a blank stare and then mumbled that it's not necessary. So FWIW, I do think mine were, technically, improperly installed.

I'm now curious enough to follow up with another dumb question -- to what extent do limiters have any negative effect on intended performance/behaviour of OEM rubber RTABs? My experience here tells me that monoballs are overkill and stock rubber with limiters are a great way to go, unless the limiters force some other tradeoff.

The monoballs are pretty and cool tho, so not a bad option if you wanna spend $150-$200 more and not have to ever do RTABs again I guess.

[karter16]

crazy just experienced the same thing but with the passenger door, interested to find out if there is some adjustment.

I have an RHD and mine is the same, passenger door is crisper and quieter. Pretty sure it's just that whichever door is the driver's door gets used a lot more a wears over the time. Adjustment definitely made things a lot better for me, but it's still not as good as passenger door. Pretty sure replacement of the latch mechanism etc. is what's needed to fix the rest of it.

[bagger]

Same with my passenger door. Passengers often actually think it's locked and I have to tell them to pull a little more lol

Mine have always been that way. If there is a way to tune it - I'm here for it!

[ATB88]

crazy just experienced the same thing but with the passenger door, interested to find out if there is some adjustment.

Same with my passenger door. Passengers often actually think it's locked and I have to tell them to pull a little more lol

[elrichmeister]

I noticed today--not sure how--that my driver side exterior door handle requires more travel compared to the passenger side to "open" the door. Is there an adjustment procedure for this? The passenger side "feels" better to me (tighter/crisper/less travel), but, I'll let sleeping dogs lie if I need to; the driver door opens just fine.

crazy just experienced the same thing but with the passenger door, interested to find out if there is some adjustment.

[CrisSilberGrau]

I have a set of Shrick 280/272 cams (manufactured late 2022, new polished lobes that force you to get rockers instead of the black nitride lobes of old) that are slightly damaged after install. I've documented this well in my build thread and as well on the Cam thread here on the forum (link to follow). While they are damaged, it is also minimal. Is there a point to put them up in the For Sale section for a heavily reduced price for someone to take on as a project or is this a lost cause? I'd be selling them for less than half what they were new in 2022 when I got them from Bimmerworld ($750 obo) and they'd come with the relief valve as well.

If it's worth it please let me know.

[PSUEng]

I noticed today--not sure how--that my driver side exterior door handle requires more travel compared to the passenger side to "open" the door. Is there an adjustment procedure for this? The passenger side "feels" better to me (tighter/crisper/less travel), but, I'll let sleeping dogs lie if I need to; the driver door opens just fine.

[Cubieman]

I have CMP subframe raising bushings and am replacing my diff and wondering if I must lower the S.F to get the diff out? My first guess would be yes..