Originally posted by Cubieman
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Originally posted by ATB88 View PostAnyone who has DIY'd diff output seals: what did you use to drive the seal in? I remember it being a huge pain in the ass to get it in last time, and I would like to be prepared this time so I can get in and get out. Anyone know of an easily purchasable object that will do the trick?
I used a PVC pipe fitting, although it was a special fitting I got from a store I used to work at that sold hot tubs. It was a repair fitting so you won't find it locally but here are some pictures and a part #.
I see I sanded it around the permiter slightly for a better fit. My memory is terrible but I'm almost positive I used this.
Edit: You may be able to get this locally, it slips over a 2" fitting, we sold them as well as another shop in our small Nebraska town.
Last edited by Cubieman; 02-01-2025, 12:06 PM.
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Regarding the suspension, I have the Koni/Eibach shock/spring combo. I'll attach a link to this setup so you can see the amount of reduction from the springs (it's not much). https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...1145-1012.htmlOriginally posted by BMWE46M3 View Post
No, to be clear I have the 19" style 67 wheels. I'm sorry, I should have mentioned that.
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Anyone who has DIY'd diff output seals: what did you use to drive the seal in? I remember it being a huge pain in the ass to get it in last time, and I would like to be prepared this time so I can get in and get out. Anyone know of an easily purchasable object that will do the trick?Last edited by ATB88; 01-31-2025, 04:59 PM.
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I’m assuming you responded because you have ZCP wheels and these tire specs and stock suspension, but… yes? lolOriginally posted by BMWE46M3 View Post
I'm running 12.5 in the rear and 20 in the front without issues and it looks great.
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I'm running 12.5 in the rear and 20 in the front without issues and it looks great.Originally posted by davidinnyc View PostOkay - getting ready to install 996 calipers on the Imola. This question is partly lazy and also partly “I’ve read everywhere up and down and can’t get someone with the exact setup I want to run give me an answer”:
ZCP wheels
275/30/19 rear
245/35/19 front
What spacers can I run without issues and on stock suspension? I measured and *think* I can run 15MM up front and 12MM rear still without rubbing?
David
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Okay - getting ready to install 996 calipers on the Imola. This question is partly lazy and also partly “I’ve read everywhere up and down and can’t get someone with the exact setup I want to run give me an answer”:
ZCP wheels
275/30/19 rear
245/35/19 front
What spacers can I run without issues and on stock suspension? I measured and *think* I can run 15MM up front and 12MM rear still without rubbing?
David
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You won't lose any diff fluid. The output shafts are bolted to the drive flanges on the differential, so they just get unbolted. Now if you want to replace the flange seals on the differential, then you might lose some diff fluid.Originally posted by BigRussia View PostHave a proper dumb question for this thread this time; when removing the axle from the differential does any diff fluid come out? Need to repair the inner cv joint boot and was wondering if I’ll need to have some Castrol diff fluid handy or it’s actually a sealed unit and I'm being dumb?
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Have a proper dumb question for this thread this time; when removing the axle from the differential does any diff fluid come out? Need to repair the inner cv joint boot and was wondering if I’ll need to have some Castrol diff fluid handy or it’s actually a sealed unit and I'm being dumb?Last edited by BigRussia; 01-30-2025, 06:18 AM.
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Unfortunately the best torch I have is MAP gas, I think I can vise that bitch up and give it a go. I just worry about cracking the welds, it bent one way (likely from a crash) now I am bending it back.Originally posted by Tbonem3 View PostI think so. You have to get it hot enough, but steel is easier to work with than any alloy.
You have a proper torch?
A long pry bar or something would be good to give you the leverage. One end down below that step, then the otherside of that step will be your fulcrum. I like your idea of pulling too. I would mock it up and practice first. Can this fit into a vice or can you make a quick jig or something to hold the whole thing? Maybe even in-situ if you had to.
Or take it and an 18 pack to a local muffler shop.
I do like how the resonators are clamped on so worst case I can just delete them or get new resonator as both sides are bent up. The exhaust is likely going to be super tame with 2 sets of resonator but the M6 isn't getting high end shit, that's for the 3 series.
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I think so. You have to get it hot enough, but steel is easier to work with than any alloy.
You have a proper torch?
A long pry bar or something would be good to give you the leverage. One end down below that step, then the otherside of that step will be your fulcrum. I like your idea of pulling too. I would mock it up and practice first. Can this fit into a vice or can you make a quick jig or something to hold the whole thing? Maybe even in-situ if you had to.
Or take it and an 18 pack to a local muffler shop.Last edited by Tbonem3; 01-27-2025, 04:56 PM.
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I bought a used full exhaust system for my M6, supposedly Dinan, at least the mufflers. My issue is that one of the resonators is bent on the outlet side.
I don't know much about metal, welds etc. so I wondered if this could be fixed by me maybe with some heat/pliers/leverage.
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Adaptations get reset when the battery is undone as well. You'll be fine. Will take some time for smog monitors to set.
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