Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Acarv_426]

I was running INPA and the laptop slid off my lap. I accidentally pressed F7 reset adaptations while the car was running. How screwed am I? Thanks

[oceansize]

1. Are there any non Genuine BMW center support bearings that are as good and lower cost? (Yes I know they are only like $150 to start with)
.

Might want to check your local BMW dealer as getbmwparts is $20 cheaper.

https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-parts/bmw-center-bearing-26122282495

[Slideways]

I need to do the driveshaft center bearing, and MAYBE the driveshaft CV joint. Long story short, I have a clunking sound after leaving my driveshaft not properly supported for a long period of time while doing my RACP. Stupid, I know. I'm inclined to believe, or at least, hoping, the center support bearing is the culprit.

1. Are there any non Genuine BMW center support bearings that are as good and lower cost? (Yes I know they are only like $150 to start with)
2. Are any of those fasteners one time use only? Or can I reuse everything?

I am going to try just doing the center bearing first, and if the clunking problem persists, then I'll drop the shaft and do the CV joint. So I'm hoping I can reuse everything if I need to drop it all twice.

The Rein branded one on ECS appears to have the BMW logo ground off. Unfortunately, they seem to be NLA. If you cannot source that one, you might have to go genuine.

[Nate047]

I need to do the driveshaft center bearing, and MAYBE the driveshaft CV joint. Long story short, I have a clunking sound after leaving my driveshaft not properly supported for a long period of time while doing my RACP. Stupid, I know. I'm inclined to believe, or at least, hoping, the center support bearing is the culprit.

1. Are there any non Genuine BMW center support bearings that are as good and lower cost? (Yes I know they are only like $150 to start with)
2. Are any of those fasteners one time use only? Or can I reuse everything?

I am going to try just doing the center bearing first, and if the clunking problem persists, then I'll drop the shaft and do the CV joint. So I'm hoping I can reuse everything if I need to drop it all twice.

[Zekarus]

I'd like to know how to check if the original engine is still present in the car. Buddy of mine is selling a car with a swapped motor and I'd like to help him disclose that. Is there an engine serial number plate with part of the chassis VIN in it, or is this confirmed another way?

yes you can check the number on the block. it's engraved and you can see on the picture where. just turn in the right front wheel, don't need to jack up the car. with the number and the vin you can at least check if it's the original block. you can go to BMW or you can try to ask free car dealers with access to a car data base.

[PSUEng]

I'd like to know how to check if the original engine is still present in the car. Buddy of mine is selling a car with a swapped motor and I'd like to help him disclose that. Is there an engine serial number plate with part of the chassis VIN in it, or is this confirmed another way?

[sbay]

I'm sure someone else who has done a headgasket will chime in, but I would not overthink this and you really can't go back and redo it. If you marked a line on the bolt, you can come back and check that it is still in the same position in a few hundred or thousand miles to satisfy the OCD. If the cams are in, even more incentive to keep going forward. You also used a techangle and it is hard to mess up with one of those.

Thank you, that’s a good idea…I’ll just monitor the line and send it.

[Slideways]

I was tightening the cylinder head bolts and one of them, number 12 in the diagram, was just a little easier on the resistance side than the rest of them. I was still able to get the 30nm+90+90 degrees, I used a snapon techangle, but it just was smooth unlike the rest had which had more of a tight/clamping feel. I cleaned the bolt holes and used compressed air beforehand but now I'm rethinking if somehow maybe there was residual brake clean or I lubed up the threads with too much oil (used an oil can and just went down the threads, not much imo). It could just be OCD. Any experiences with this/insight?

I'm sure someone else who has done a headgasket will chime in, but I would not overthink this and you really can't go back and redo it. If you marked a line on the bolt, you can come back and check that it is still in the same position in a few hundred or thousand miles to satisfy the OCD. If the cams are in, even more incentive to keep going forward. You also used a techangle and it is hard to mess up with one of those.

[sbay]

I was tightening the cylinder head bolts and one of them, number 12 in the diagram, was just a little easier on the resistance side than the rest of them. I was still able to get the 30nm+90+90 degrees, I used a snapon techangle, but it just was smooth unlike the rest had which had more of a tight/clamping feel. I cleaned the bolt holes and used compressed air beforehand but now I'm rethinking if somehow maybe there was residual brake clean or I lubed up the threads with too much oil (used an oil can and just went down the threads, not much imo). It could just be OCD. Any experiences with this/insight?

[bmwfnatic]

Ah interesting, I was wondering why even with the fender pull the lip wasnt flat and still so thick. Thanks, yeah that sounds like a better solution, ill try that instead of cutting, less chance of accidentally cutting a spot weld too lol.

EDIT- following up, after taking another look at the inner lip, the shop that pulled the fenders pinched the top of the lip ‘channel’ closed, so wont be able to get a wire wheel in there to clear out the rubber :/

The inner and outer arch meet there as kind of an U shape which not your typical L shape that you can easily roll, the U shape is very strong.

There are spot welds are on the inboard side of the U shape, if you cut off the entire channel, your inner and outer arch will no longer be connected to eachother, you can solve that by welding the entire perimeter, which is what I have on my personal car, but obviously it will need painting on the outer arches at that point, you also need to be careful of heat control and warpage.

Another approach without welding is to first cut the U shape into the L shape, by removing the inner edge with the spot welds, and then carefully only cut out the inner arch part of the L shape, not the outer arch part, then apply panel bond adhesive and fold the outer arch over the now cut inner arch, and seam seal it afterwards, that is how a CSL is from factory.



Here is a CSL for reference.

[fattycharged]

Hmm, mine were new. Maybe they're not as thick as originals?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tbonem3]

Anyone remember how many selector rod washers were needed when installing their AS SSK?

I was surprised to need 2 per side, double OE, to make it snug?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Yes I did that with old ones.

[fattycharged]

Anyone remember how many selector rod washers were needed when installing their AS SSK?

I was surprised to need 2 per side, double OE, to make it snug?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

[BigRussia]

Theres rubber in that channel, I would remove that first with a wire wheel. Then you can roll the inner fender flat to the outer fender.

Ah interesting, I was wondering why even with the fender pull the lip wasnt flat and still so thick. Thanks, yeah that sounds like a better solution, ill try that instead of cutting, less chance of accidentally cutting a spot weld too lol.

EDIT- following up, after taking another look at the inner lip, the shop that pulled the fenders pinched the top of the lip ‘channel’ closed, so wont be able to get a wire wheel in there to clear out the rubber :/

[jayjaya29]

Theres rubber in that channel, I would remove that first with a wire wheel. Then you can roll the inner fender flat to the outer fender.