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  • fourmula1
    replied
    Eldor ignition coils do not "snap" in the same way the original's do. Feels like there is a little 1/16" gap between the contact points, cant quite seat them all the way. What am I missing or am I overthinking?

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  • bagger
    replied
    Originally posted by bagger View Post

    Well I for sure would take your word for it based on that! Right now the shipping costs more than the part recommended. Next time I need some stuff I have it in my list and will snag one if still there (part is listed as clearance on their site).
    Well the little $5 part came, and as expected, doesn't really fit anywhere. So hopefully this will save someone $5 in the future!

    Leave a comment:


  • BigRussia
    replied
    Due for a coolant flush; if aiming for 80/20 distilled to coolant mix would .5 gallon of coolant and rest distilled water get me there? I read the cooling system capacity is around 2.5 gallons?

    I dont mind ending up with 90/10 since car sees mostly track driving than street, but worried about lacking lubrication for water pump etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • sbay
    replied
    Originally posted by sbay View Post
    Crazy, curious question but can you drill the 83mm shifter hole without removing the trans/SMG hardware?
    Boredom is a helluva drug. Would never recommend, but possible.
    Last edited by sbay; 06-05-2024, 09:06 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • sbay
    replied
    Crazy, curious question but can you drill the 83mm shifter hole without removing the trans/SMG hardware?
    Last edited by sbay; 06-05-2024, 06:59 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by dHam_Slow.46M View Post
    Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_2922.jpg Views:	0 Size:	164.8 KB ID:	266400 So I took out my center console as the front mounting points rotted to hell and discovered some wires underneath. Anyone know what they’re for?? Also looks like the purple/lavender wire was snipped, not sure if that was intentional or not from previous owner
    This is for a telephone, how it connects to said telephone I don't know.

    I used a wire from that connector for switched 12V power, likely the same thing the P.O of your car did.

    Leave a comment:


  • dHam_Slow.46M
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2922.jpg Views:	0 Size:	164.8 KB ID:	266400 So I took out my center console as the front mounting points rotted to hell and discovered some wires underneath. Anyone know what they’re for?? Also looks like the purple/lavender wire was snipped, not sure if that was intentional or not from previous owner

    Leave a comment:


  • Darbshaw
    replied
    Originally posted by Avedis View Post
    What model years got the HP DME compatible with CSL intake/tune? I have a 10/2004 Build.

    Is this something that I could tell by date alone, or would I need to pull the DME?
    Iirc I think it's like mid 03 was the crossover point. I think my build date is 9/2003 and I have an HP DME


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by Avedis View Post
    What model years got the HP DME compatible with CSL intake/tune? I have a 10/2004 Build.

    Is this something that I could tell by date alone, or would I need to pull the DME?
    High chance You have a HP DME

    Leave a comment:


  • Avedis
    replied
    What model years got the HP DME compatible with CSL intake/tune? I have a 10/2004 Build.

    Is this something that I could tell by date alone, or would I need to pull the DME?

    Leave a comment:


  • Darbshaw
    replied
    Originally posted by Slideways View Post

    Those look like scratches. I think I have seen alignment shops stick pry bars or a long flat head screw drivers in that area to move the RTAB bracket for toe adjustment.
    Ahh that would make total sense! I was wondering how that scratch could even happen. Thanks for the speedy response

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by Darbshaw View Post
    Are these scratches or cracks in my RTAB cups? Just dropped the rear subframe and found these. They don't feel like cracks, more like raised scratches?

    Tempted to do the rtab reinforcement while the subframe is out. Although none of the kits I saw reinforce the internal pocked area, just the surrounding mount.

    Car is a track car, did have to weld topside rear subframe cracks last summer.

    Any advice or words of wisdom?
    Thanks!]
    Those look like scratches. I think I have seen alignment shops stick pry bars or a long flat head screw drivers in that area to move the RTAB bracket for toe adjustment.

    Leave a comment:


  • Darbshaw
    replied
    Are these scratches or cracks in my RTAB cups? Just dropped the rear subframe and found these. They don't feel like cracks, more like raised scratches?

    Tempted to do the rtab reinforcement while the subframe is out. Although none of the kits I saw reinforce the internal pocked area, just the surrounding mount.

    Car is a track car, did have to weld topside rear subframe cracks last summer.

    Any advice or words of wisdom?
    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • repoman89
    replied
    Not really a dumb question, more of a dumb answer that maybe will help someone or me in the future.

    I factory coded my car in NCS after altering the vehicle order to remove things that I’ve deleted (nav, sunroof etc), which restored my airbag module to the stock coding. I had previously removed the occupancy sensor option to install my Nogaros. I found that the ABG module will NOT code using sg_codieren with the Expert Mode profile despite other modules coding just fine. I tried like 20 times .. despite the flashing airbag light indicating activity it wouldn’t take the new coding.

    You have to use the FSW_PSW profile for some reason for that module. I discovered this last time and forgot. All restored now.

    edited: alright, maybe this is common knowledge or just a quirk of my NCS install. Just recoded the cluster to get back the CSL oil level monitor and it also pretended to code in expert mode but didn’t take. Had to again use the other profile. Most people seem to have NCS Dummy or that Revtor profile which my install doesn’t have.
    Last edited by repoman89; 05-27-2024, 11:15 AM.

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  • sbay
    replied
    Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
    Funny – I actually just watched part of an M539 Restorations video where Sreten talks about this. Relevant discussion starts around the 10-minute mark: https://youtu.be/XsV0h-9z86c?si=Ul0vhSBIFx9k0tOA&t=606

    He favors the finger smear method. OTOH, every factory assembly video I've seen just had a bead.

    Either way, the most important point is what Slideways said: only fill the gaps.

    Be conservative. If you use too little and it leaks later, that's annoying – but you use too much and the excess sealant ends up inside your engine, that could be a bad day.
    Thank you IamFODI and Slideways ! Might just stick to the finger method I’ve been using then. Even though both methods work perfectly fine, finger smear just looks a bit cleaner and in a sense, you have more control over how it spreads.
    Last edited by sbay; 05-24-2024, 12:13 PM.

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