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Eldor ignition coils do not "snap" in the same way the original's do. Feels like there is a little 1/16" gap between the contact points, cant quite seat them all the way. What am I missing or am I overthinking?
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Originally posted by bagger View Post
Well I for sure would take your word for it based on that! Right now the shipping costs more than the part recommended. Next time I need some stuff I have it in my list and will snag one if still there (part is listed as clearance on their site).
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Due for a coolant flush; if aiming for 80/20 distilled to coolant mix would .5 gallon of coolant and rest distilled water get me there? I read the cooling system capacity is around 2.5 gallons?
I dont mind ending up with 90/10 since car sees mostly track driving than street, but worried about lacking lubrication for water pump etc.
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Originally posted by dHam_Slow.46M View Post
I used a wire from that connector for switched 12V power, likely the same thing the P.O of your car did.
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Originally posted by Avedis View PostWhat model years got the HP DME compatible with CSL intake/tune? I have a 10/2004 Build.
Is this something that I could tell by date alone, or would I need to pull the DME?
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Originally posted by Avedis View PostWhat model years got the HP DME compatible with CSL intake/tune? I have a 10/2004 Build.
Is this something that I could tell by date alone, or would I need to pull the DME?
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What model years got the HP DME compatible with CSL intake/tune? I have a 10/2004 Build.
Is this something that I could tell by date alone, or would I need to pull the DME?
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Originally posted by Slideways View Post
Those look like scratches. I think I have seen alignment shops stick pry bars or a long flat head screw drivers in that area to move the RTAB bracket for toe adjustment.
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Originally posted by Darbshaw View PostAre these scratches or cracks in my RTAB cups? Just dropped the rear subframe and found these. They don't feel like cracks, more like raised scratches?
Tempted to do the rtab reinforcement while the subframe is out. Although none of the kits I saw reinforce the internal pocked area, just the surrounding mount.
Car is a track car, did have to weld topside rear subframe cracks last summer.
Any advice or words of wisdom?
Thanks!]
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Are these scratches or cracks in my RTAB cups? Just dropped the rear subframe and found these. They don't feel like cracks, more like raised scratches?
Tempted to do the rtab reinforcement while the subframe is out. Although none of the kits I saw reinforce the internal pocked area, just the surrounding mount.
Car is a track car, did have to weld topside rear subframe cracks last summer.
Any advice or words of wisdom?
Thanks!
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Not really a dumb question, more of a dumb answer that maybe will help someone or me in the future.
I factory coded my car in NCS after altering the vehicle order to remove things that I’ve deleted (nav, sunroof etc), which restored my airbag module to the stock coding. I had previously removed the occupancy sensor option to install my Nogaros. I found that the ABG module will NOT code using sg_codieren with the Expert Mode profile despite other modules coding just fine. I tried like 20 times .. despite the flashing airbag light indicating activity it wouldn’t take the new coding.
You have to use the FSW_PSW profile for some reason for that module. I discovered this last time and forgot. All restored now.
edited: alright, maybe this is common knowledge or just a quirk of my NCS install. Just recoded the cluster to get back the CSL oil level monitor and it also pretended to code in expert mode but didn’t take. Had to again use the other profile. Most people seem to have NCS Dummy or that Revtor profile which my install doesn’t have.Last edited by repoman89; 05-27-2024, 11:15 AM.
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Originally posted by IamFODI View PostFunny – I actually just watched part of an M539 Restorations video where Sreten talks about this. Relevant discussion starts around the 10-minute mark: https://youtu.be/XsV0h-9z86c?si=Ul0vhSBIFx9k0tOA&t=606
He favors the finger smear method. OTOH, every factory assembly video I've seen just had a bead.
Either way, the most important point is what Slideways said: only fill the gaps.
Be conservative. If you use too little and it leaks later, that's annoying – but you use too much and the excess sealant ends up inside your engine, that could be a bad day.Last edited by sbay; 05-24-2024, 12:13 PM.
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